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Everything posted by Taylormade

  1. That is so much better looking than the one I was trying to look at for you in central Illinois. I like the styling of the early thirties models much better than some of the later ones. You were right to wait - and man did it pay off! Just a beautiful car from every angle.
  2. Love it. I assume one of the first items on your list is addressing the headlights. I’m glad you finally found one that you liked and could buy. I think this was a better choice than the one I tried to help you with.
  3. This particular site is dedicated to original automobiles, with the possible exception of the modified category in the Buick section, and when that’s what I want to talk or read about I come here. When it comes to rods, I head for the HAMB. I enjoy both and respect that both sites try to keep to their original purpose. I don’t think it’s too much to ask that we do the same. Not that this thread is a big deal or somehow wrong, but it’s a subject that’s been done to death, with the same answers, opinions and rationale. There are obviously a group of strict purists on both sides and then a large group that falls in the middle and can see both sides without having a brain hemorrhage.
  4. My 1932 Dodge Brothers DL sedan has the same type of brake lines as your Plymouth. Your brake cylinders accept modern fittings. I replaced all the brake lines on my car with double flared Cunifer copper-nickel tubing. It has a coppery appearance, is very easy to bend and has an very high pressure rating. Old copper lines tend to become brittle with use and vibration. Cunifer looks original and you will have a comfortable feeling of safety and peace of mind.
  5. A little late to the game, but my 32 DL is set up the same as keiser31's 31. A lot of grease and grime, but you can see the shock and mount in this picture taken during disassembly. The restored parts. You can see the longer front u-bolts for attaching the shock plate.
  6. Well, I think this dream will probably take the cake, I had it last night, and I'll warn you in advance, I have very realistic and detailed dreams. In this dream I was reading the AACA Forums and came upon a post about a 1964 Corvair that had two antennas on the rear drivers fender, one in front of the other, maybe a foot apart. There was a nice photo of an older red Corvair in driver condition with the aforesaid antennas in plain view. The owner was wondering about this strange installation - which he claimed to appear to have been done at the factory - and was asking about it. The response to the post immediately caught my eye. This second poster replied that they had first hand experience with the two antenna phenomenon and proceeded to explain that the second antenna indicated that someone high up at the dealership where the car was purchased was a cannibal. (I warned you) There was a very convincing explanation of why this strange theory was absolutely true. As in all dreams - especially mine, it seems - the explanation made perfect sense at the time, but I can't for the life of me remember why. At any rate, further posts agreed with the cannibal explanation and provided stories of how their father worked at a dealership and knew about this dark fact but was afraid to tell, that their uncle confirmed it, and so on. Finally, the last post came up with a "reasonable" explanation for the second antenna (don't they always?). This member confidently wrote that the second antenna was installed in cars with the then new FM radio, and that the AM antenna would not pick up the FM signal correctly and the FM antenna was there for proper reception. He posted factory photographs showing the installation of the "special" FM receiver box that was bolted in a special bracket above the driver side door and hidden by the headliner. He explained that all Corvairs had this bracket, FM receiver or not, and that if you peeled back the headliner you would find it. He also posted a second factory photo that showed an elaborate wire FM antenna snaked through the entire roof of the car and also hidden by the headliner. This seemed to make perfect sense in the dream, despite the fact that if the FM antenna was in the roof, why was it necessary to install the second antenna on the rear fender? I woke up before that disturbing contradiction became apparent. I think this dream has two possible explanations - one, my subconscious has a very active, and perhaps, disturbing imagination, or - two, I'm spending entirely too much time on this forum.
  7. If it was closer I’d pay two grand for it with a few more photos to go by. Anything left of the interior?
  8. I’m not sure why the body was painted considering the amount of work still necessary to finish it off. Most of the metal at the bottom needs repairing or replacing. It appears what has been done has been sitting for some time. Why not paint it the original color? I think the dark blue would really set this car off. When they say it’s part way through the restoration do they mean ten percent? This is a rare and desirable car, but it really needs everything. All the chrome I see needs to be redone. Fenders, running boards, aprons and other sheet metal needs to be repaired, new upholstery installed and the millions of little things we all know and love. The motor and chassis have been done, but by whom. Receipts? How long ago? How old are the tires and why were they mounted on unpainted wheels? I’m not knocking this car - I’d love to own it and the seller has provided enough pictures to give an honest depiction of the full nature of the project, which is a big one. There was a nice driver quality coupe exactly like this for sale on this site for 110 grand a year ago. How far would 45 thousand get you toward making this a driver? And did that seller get his 110?
  9. Probably the wrong site to post this. We are dedicated to the preservation of original automobiles. The HAMB site is one place to go. Not disparaging your car, this just isn’t the best place for it. And I doubt you meant that this is a Model A body as they stopped making them in 1931. Model As are not deuce coups. Based on you photographs, this is far from a number one car. The undercarriage especially needs a good cleaning and detailing at the very least.
  10. A really nice looking car, but the owner is obviously trying to recoup restoration costs. That price, with some assembly and a interior not done just isn’t going to cut it.
  11. Mickey first appeared in the silent cartoon “Plane Crazy” then starred in ‘Steamboat Willie” credited as the first sound cartoon. Both in 1928, so Morgan is right, Mickey wasn’t around in 1922.
  12. Copper gets brittle and can crack. It doesn’t like constant vibration. My 29 Plymouth had its original copper brake lines when I got it and several snapped with little pressure when I removed them from the frame during restoration. Copper-nickel doesn’t corrode, stays flexible and has a superior pressure rating. I made repeated, flawless double flares with my Eastwood flaring tool, and easily bent the lines to their original locations. I helped a friend install stainless lines and they were a pain to flare and bend using the same tools. You can probably get away with copper, but I’ll always use copper-nickel from now on.
  13. Rather than steel brake lines, might I suggest Cunifer, nickel-copper lines. They are much easier to bend and flair, and they won’t rust. They also have the coppery color the original lines had. They are used in many modern cars. I used them on my 32 Dodge Brothers DL sedan and couldn’t have been happier.
  14. I’ve spend close to $2000 on the correct wool broadcloth material from the late lamented LaBaron-Bonney. I found a local trim shop that agreeded to do just the seats for two grand. He’s done a very good job, not perfect, but my car will be a driver, not a show car. He admitted to me that he grossly undercharged me and would have told me five grand if he had to do it over again. I paid $1200 for the correct material to do the doors and other trim panels. I plan to do the doors myself with the exception of some stitching to outline a shape on the door panels, then do all the installation myself. Ceiling material was $200. My wife stitched it up and I’ll install it. I need help from the upholsterer to stitch the door panels and to do the rear arm rests. I figure that will be around $500. I cleaned and painted all the seat springs. The upholsterer used cotton stuffing for the pleats. No foam was used anywhere. The pleats are very deep and there are a lot of buttons. The first attempt at the seats was a disaster, then I found the new guy who did them. The first guy didn’t have a clue what he was doing. I had to buy another two yards of broadcloth thanks to that idiot. The interior has been the least fun project of the restoration. I have a 32 Dodge Brothers sedan very close in size to your car.
  15. I’m no Pontiac expert, but I think the fastback makes it a bit more valuable than the trunk models. Does it run? What’s the interior like? Are the floors solid? Is the wood solid in the doors and body? The condition of the wood will make a huge difference in value. I don’t think you will get more than three grand for it. You may find just the right guy who loves Pontiacs, who knows. I don’y even want to guess the bill for chroming that waterfall grill.
  16. Hmmm...maybe mine didn’t either. The previous owner, Phil Kennedy (editor of the Dodge Brothers Club News) took the axle apart years ago and told me he didn’t find any shims at the time. I just figured it had been monkeyed with somewhere in the past.
  17. You’re exactly right about the shims, ply33, but when I took my axle, apart I discovered that the shims had been removed at some point and had long disappeared. Hence my quandary.
  18. If they are anything like those on my 32 DL, you take off the hub, then remove the outer seal. You can use an axle puller, but I just put the hub back on loosely and put the axle nut back. This gave me enough room to slide the hub back against the bolt. My axles came out fairly easily with this method, and it didn’t take a lot of banging to get the axle to move. The outer bearing race will come out first, followed by the axle with two attached tapered roller bearings back to back, with a slight ridge on the axle separating them. This will leave the inner bearing race still in the axle housing with the inner seal behind it. You use a three jaw bearing puller to remove the inner race - this process usually destroyes the inner seal - and then you can grab what’s left of the seal and remove it. Then and Now Automotive had the correct inner seals when I rebuilt my rear End a few years ago. They had outer seals, also, if I remember correctly. There are shims on the back of the inner bearing race that determine axle play. These are a real pain to figure out if you change the bearings. You have to put everything together before you can determine the axle play. If you’re wrong you would have to destroy your new inner seals taking things back apart to install the correct shims. Have fun!
  19. Correct, Spinnyhill. My marine plywood is not treated, it simply uses waterproof glue, but all the wood floors use anti-squeak fabric between the wood and the metal frame anyway, so no problem.
  20. The 32 Dodge Brothers sedan I’m restoring had plywood floors from the factory. I think the earlier cars used solid wood boards. I replaced mine - which were sadly rotted beyond repair and covered with an impossible to remove black tar undercoating - with high grade marine plywood.
  21. Use marine plywood, it’s laminated with waterproof glue and holds up much better than standard plywood.
  22. Is this for sale or are you just displaying a rather beat up taillight for our edification?
  23. I'm working on two art projects, #D models of an old Richfield gas station and a 1911 Flying Merkel board-track racer. Still a long way to go on both, but they are coming along. The Merkel motor was a real bear to model.