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Everything posted by Taylormade

  1. If you are going to put the body and fenders on another frame, it's going to mean a great deal of disassembly - heck, you'll basically have to take the whole car apart! That will certainly give you a chance to examine the hidden areas you're concerned about. There are no double panels in the fenders of Chrysler products of this era, so you'll be able to get to the metal on the back with no problems. How far you want to go is up to you. POR-15 will drastically slow down the rust problem but will never completely stop it. It will allow you to keep the exterior paint as it is - although you will have to clean the surface rust around the holes. You're going to have to live with those rust holes, however, as cutting out the bad metal and replacing it will obviously destroy the paint around the repair. I would be wary as my 32 Dodge looked pretty good before I took the fenders off and discovered what was really lurking below the shiny black paint - more rust than I ever imagined. They had to be rebuilt as about 50 percent of the metal was gone. If you really want to prolong the car's lifespan, It looks like you have a major structural problem with the tops of those front fenders and when you take things apart you will probably make it worse. I'd replace the rusted out metal and do your best to match the paint on the rest of the car - although I suspect you'll end up doing so much work you'll have to repaint it anyway..
  2. Looks like Kyle sold his DL. $8500 isn't a bad price - let's hope it went to someone who will keep it original.
  3. Great looking car and a beautiful job on the second time around restoration.
  4. It's been awhile since I've posted anything. Hershey and one of my major clients suddenly closing their doors for good put a temporary hold on things. The good news - I picked up a great radiator at Hershey from fellow board member Sandbarfarm31, and a nice gas tank, along with a set of NOS king pins and a great tail light from board member yirgaman. Thanks guys! Took the top insert off the DL's body last night and will post some photos soon. Turned out to be an easy job. With the body totally stripped of glass, window and door mechanisms, trim and the top insert, sanding and priming is underway. No new pix as things look about the same as they did in post #270. The bad news - money is tight with my losing a major client. I still hope to make Detroit next summer, but finances may play a big part in that endevor. Well, a no cost option is me stripping down the frame and cleaning everything up, so that's next.
  5. I still wouldn't have paid more than $5000 tops if I were trying to purchase it. And, if I'd owned it for years in that shape, I would have gladly sold it for $8100. But since I was neither trying to buy nor sell the car, my opinion is worth about 2 cents.
  6. Apparently by collectors of firearms.
  7. They are still out there. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1923-buick-model-45-Phaeton-restoration-project-located-Vancouver-BC-/181226826901?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item2a31f5ec95
  8. Just a quick update - lots of new posts since August. http://forums.aaca.org/f143/ressurection-daphne-1932-dl-348459.html#post1151916
  9. Thanks for the photo, Phil. That's exactly what I was talking about. No designs, just the stamped lip to hold the carpet/rubber floor mat.
  10. I have a friend looking for six 1936 Packard wire wheel hubs. I'll be at Hershey all week. PM me with a price if you have any available. Thanks, RT
  11. My DL does have them, but they are nothing fancy, just black painted steel with a lip to hold the rubber mat or carpet.
  12. Check this out. Someone used this poor old girl for target practice - and then some. How many bullet holes are you willing to repair? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1929-DODGE-FIVE-5-WINDOW-COUPE-HOT-RAT-ROD-ORIGINAL-POWERTRAIN-CLEAR-TITLED-/251350468653?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item3a85a7c82d
  13. Thanks, Steve. Looking at the map, and based on a few local shows in my area, I thought there might be a long wait in line to get into the parking area. Glad to know that isn't the case.
  14. I haven't been to Hershey in 20 years. I want to get to the vendor area early, if possible. How long should one expect to wait to get their car parked in the morning? I'm staying in a motel about eight miles to the west and was wondering what time I need to head out to get to the meet when it opens and get my car parked - Wednesday and Thursday especially. This is my modern car, of course. Thanks, RT
  15. <quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate><quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate>I built a dolly for the body today - not exactly an engineering marvel, but good enough to move the body around as Crin sands and primes it. All the metal work is done - at last! - and now we can get on with the paint work. Ed did an outstanding job. What was supposed to be a two week job turned into three months, but we kept discovering new problems every time we went to inspect the next area. You've seen enough of the fenders and hood, but here a few before and afters of the body. It's a little tough to see, but there is a sizable dent in the center of the roof above the windshield and the cowl is caved in between the vent openings. And the repairs. Several dents removed - these were on the car when I bought it in 1965. They always drove me nuts! Finally, the rear door fits and closes correctly. I removed all the glass except the back windows, taking out the window and door latch mechanisms in the process.<quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate><quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate><quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate><quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate><quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate><quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate><quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate> I'll be restoring those over the next few weeks.
  16. Daphne arrived nearer to home today as Ed personally delivered the finished body, now temporarily back on the frame for transport, to Crin's Undercover Upholstery and Paint. We wheeled it off the trailer and took the body back off with Crin's lift. We then rolled the frame back on the trailer and Ed delivered it to my place where it now resides in my workshop - finally! I'm going over tonight to take the windows out of the body and I'll take detailed pictures of the completed body work. It now looks like that huge slab of ice never fell on the old girl, she's straight as an arrow once again.
  17. Crin has the front fenders color sanded and buffed out. They've gone from a rather garish shine to a really nice shiny glow that looks much more like the original paint on the old girl. This is Crin's paint booth/workshop. That's not one of my fenders, it's from his 36 Packard. Vent system.
  18. Very nice find. I have to admit, I'm a car guy, but there are plenty of folks on the forum into these old trucks and they'll be able to offer a wealth of information.
  19. Terrific job. Hope to see you in Auburn Hills next year.
  20. Taylormade

    1929 desoto

    That's kind of what I thought, however he mentioned he went to the Dodge Brothers big meet which reads to me like it was put on by the DB Club. Not a big deal, I plan to drive mine, not show it.
  21. Doesn't look like he's been active on the forum since 2005.
  22. A look at the fenders from Crin's site. http://www.undercoverupholsteryandpaint.com/1932_Dodge_Exterior_1.html
  23. The attack of the Dreaded CLUM SWITCH! Today I took a look at the infamous Clum light switch that I removed from Daphne<quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate><quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate> the last time I visited Ed's. It was totally covered in black grease, but I could move the lever on the steering wheel and hear the switch click before I took it off, so I hoped for the best. It was so greasy that when I set it on a paper towel and left it overnight, there was a huge oily stain around it next morning soaked into the paper towel. Before: I used acetone, an old toothbrush, my Dremel tool with fine wire wheels and a bunch of Q-tips to get everything clean. It took a good hour to get everything off. I didn't want to expose the fiberboard piece to too much acetone as I didn't know how it would react to a powerful solvent. It seems to have come through the ordeal with flying colors. I don't know what the stuff inside the switch is made of - copper contacts, of course, but I wasn't sure if the other parts were metal or more fiberboard. It cleaned up very nicely, except for that little hunk of dirt that seems to have landed on it when I took the photos: As you can see from the last photo, It's a Clum<quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate> 9271, and I assume it's the original. After I soaked it and cleaned everything, the switch moved through it's three positions pretty smoothly, but stopped with a positive action at each detent. I got out the volt meter and got good current flow from the various numbered contacts as I tried out the different switch positions. I'll have to check the wiring diagram tomorrow, but it looks like everything is working as it should and my Clum is still good.<quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate> And that makes me very happy considering what they are going for on Ebay these days. Does anyone know if these switches were lubricated internally in any way? I ask because that lube (if any) is gone after the acetone bath. <quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate>
  24. Taylormade

    1929 desoto

    I didn't realize the Dodge Brothers Club had a rule against clear coat.
  25. I'm going to Hershey this year and figured I'd buy tires (six) and tubes for my 32 DL while I was there to save shipping costs. The car takes 5.50-18 tires. I'm going with blackwalls (on straw yellow wire wheels) because that is what came on the car originally and I'm worried about all the "yellowing whitewall" threads on the site lately. After exploring various sites I've come to the following conclusions: Firestone - I love the look and the "Gum-Dipped" logo on the tire. They sell in the $165 range, the most expensive. 29.13 inches in diameter. Has the best load capacity, beating all the other tires by 125 pounds per tire. Goodrich - Don't know much about them. Slightly smaller in diameter than the Firestones and the same price. Excelsior Comp V - Don't know what the sidewall logos look like. Supposed to be "European" in styling, whatever that means, so that might be a problem. I like that it has a larger diameter - almost an inch bigger. I hate cars that have tires that appear too small. At $138 it's a lot cheaper, but will its overall look spoil the 'original" appearance I'm going for? It also has a cross section almost an inch wider than the other tires and this might be a problem with my sidemount wells. I'll have to measure their width when I go to the painter next time. This is a four ply tire. Excelsior Comp H - I don't know what $306 gets me in this tire, other than a slightly smaller diameter than the Comp V. Four-ply. Excelsior All Black - Still has the larger diameter but a smaller cross section. $176 puts it in the middle price range. This is a six-ply tire. Lester - Again, I don't know what the sidewall logos look like. I like the tread pattern. Same diameter as the Firestone. Price is $147 - second cheapest. Michelin DR - At $331, the most expensive. Largest diameter of all tires. Cross section about the same as the Firestone. I can't see Michelin tires on a pre-war American car. So, base on your experiences, which way would you go? One thing I do want to avoid is getting a tire that won't fit into my sidemount wheel wells. This is going to be a driver so I'll put a few miles on these tire and would like something that will wear well. Thanks for any input and word of your experiences.