Taylormade

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Everything posted by Taylormade

  1. I just about have the frame stripped down - front and rear axles off<quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate><quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate>, springs removed and various bolt-on pieces loosened and ready to take off. The springs look good and a simple disassembly, blasting and repainting should do. All the shackles - front and rear - are in great shape and will not need to be replaced. Good news as they are unusual and kind of hard to find. You can see the "studs" or whatever they are called are round, nor worn and not pitted. I got front suspension off and ran into a problem. The pitman arm is so close to the frame it's impossible to get a conventional puller in behind the arm to pull it off. The hooks or "grabbers" on my puller won't fit between the arm and the frame. Any suggestions? I was thinking about something like this: http://www.walmart.com/ip/OTC-8150-Conical-Pitman-Arm-Puller-for-Light-Trucks/16481266 or: http://www.matcotools.com/catalog/product/PA643/PITMAN-ARM-PULLER/ These don't work: http://www.harborfreight.com/tie-rod-and-pitman-arm-puller-1752.html I hope I can find a local auto store that has a correct type to rent. Until I get the arm off, I can't take the frame to be power coated.<quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate>
  2. The Ammco is the tool of choice, but these view ports allow you to center the drums without using the tool. You can open the port and measure the clearance with a feeler gauge. I looked for an Ammco tool when I had my 48 Plymouth, but never found one I could afford. The instruction book for my 29 Plymouth said to use a cutaway brake drum ( a factory part) to adjust the brakes. I assume that my drums with their little view-port was the next step up in brake adjustment, followed by the Ammco tool. <quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate>
  3. "You might try the electrolytic rust removal method on those drums. Good chance the screws on your adjusting cover plate(s) will just come off after that." Good idea, ply33, I'm going to give that a try.
  4. <quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate><quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate>Back fenders in paint. still need to be color sanded and buffed out. <quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate>
  5. Taking the frame apart this weekend. Brakes looked in reasonable shape. new wheel cylinders are available and will be purchased. The linings will be replaced and I plan to buy new springs. In another thread I asked some questions about the brake drums. I think they will work although a guy at a local auto store told me he thought they looked "thin." Some minor scoring that I think can be "skimmed" out by turning the drums. The drums have an inspection port so you can correctly adjust the brakes. Adjusting early Chrysler Corp. brakes has always been a tough job without special tools. These little inspection ports allow you to see the clearance between the pads and drums all around the drum. Now if I can only get the totally rusted screws that hold the port plate on to come free! I have the feeling I'll have to drill out the flat head screws and re-tap the holes. <quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate><quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate><quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate>
  6. We took out all the interior wood from the body in preperation for blasting. The only structural wood in a DL sedan is the floorboards. The wood around the tops of the door and rear window is there for attaching the upholstery. I restored the wood in a 29 Plymouth - it had all wood framing with the sheet metal tacked on to the wood frame. What a nightmare that was! Confirmed that my car is an original DL with black body paint. The DL's body then went off to Coberaa Custom Powdercoating in Aniston, Illinois. First all traces of old paint were removed from the body. this is a Delicate process that has to be done correctly or the body panels can be badly warped. Then the body was put through five cleaning processes to make sure all the grit and dirt was removed from the metal. It was then cleaned of all wax and grease and finally etched in preparation for the powdercoating. That's not water, but a chemical cleaning bath. Then the body was powdercoated with a special paintable primer coating. Now it's ready for a coat of primer sealer, followed by the final coat of black. The other parts of the car have also been blasted and coated. Once I finish disassembling the frame, it will be blasted and powdercoated satin black. <quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate><quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate><quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate><quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate>
  7. This site has what you may be looking for: http://www.the-blueprints.com/blueprints/cars/ You get a front and side few of the cars in pretty good detail. Hope this helps. <quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate>
  8. That seems really thin. But like I said, I'm getting old and it's Friday. I'll have to measure mine when I get home, but I think they are thicker than that.
  9. Sorry, I only have the one on my car. If you need shots of the rack or the mounting brackets, just let me know.
  10. Thanks Dodger. Just one question - what the heck does 110 and 115 mean? Is that hundredths of an inch or what? Sorry, it's Friday and I'm getting old.
  11. No disrespect here, I like your model very much, but I don't think you need blueprints for this type of "folk art" modelling. You are not trying to recreate every inch of the car in miniature but, instead, are creating a "sketch" or caricature of the car in three dimensions. Just go online and search for images of the car you want to model and use the photographs to build it in your style.
  12. I assumed that the lines on my 1932 Dodge DL were copper, but when I started the restoration I discovered that they were actually copper-coated steel and had rusted away internally. I have no idea behind the coating - other than a possible rust inhibitor - but steel they were and will need to be totally replaced.
  13. The H.A.M.B might be a possible source, though most of the cars they work on are pretty much trashed before they get them. I'd have to find an idiot who is about to destroy a nice, original DL with very low miles. They are, unfortunately, out there, so I'll give it a try.
  14. What else is new? Apparently they decided to reinvent and then scrap all 32 technology that year!
  15. No problem, Dwight, I just got up on the wrong side of the bed, I guess. It's hard to determine if these drums have been turned beyond their usable limit and I can't find any information that would help me to determine this. Is it the remaining thickness of the hub wall or the inside diameter of the drum that makes the difference? I'll post some photos when I get home tonight - they may help.
  16. Maybe the humor is going right over my head - as it often does. Obviously Ted Mack/Major Bowes refers to amateur hour. Me, or find an amateur that will turn my possibly dangerous drums? This car will be a driver, and I don't intend for me or my wife to be injured half-assing the brake system. No offense, just looking for some help here. <quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate>
  17. The brake drums on my 32 DL have been sitting for over 40 years. I took one of the front drums down to the local auto shop. I wanted to know if there was enough meat left to turn them. Nothing looks scored and the rust pitting doesn't seem too bad. They looked at them and said they looked a little thin, but would need to know the factory specs as to how much they can be turned before they reach the point of no return. I checked the owners manual, the only "shop manual" available, but they list no information. Anyone have the specs or a source where I can find the information? If they are too thin, is there any way to save them? I seriously doubt I can find any in better shape. Is it possible to have an "inner band" installed, like a cylinder liner, or am I over-thinking the problem? Any help would be appreciated - especially from someone with 4 NOS drums still wrapped in the original factory packaging. These are drums for wire wheels.
  18. Great thread! I'm going through the same process on my 32 Dodge DL. Where did you come up with the puller for the pitman arm? Rental, or did you buy it somewhere?
  19. Well, $11,500 sounds a lot more reasonable! We were in the Red Field trying to peer across the fence and through the rain, and that sign was awfully small. We didn't even realize it was a replica at the time. Thanks for the heads up.
  20. I could be wrong, but I swear the price on that thing was $115,000. There was a restored yellow Cord in the corral for $140,000.
  21. <quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate><quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate>Back home from Hershey, it was time to tackle the frame. Although we had powerwashed everything at Ed's, there is still a mountain of grease and dirt everywhere. I spread out the tarps and got to work. I made the pleasant discovery that the rear spring shackles looked almost brand new. I have the feeling this car was gone over mechanically some time before I bought it. Since Phil and I probably didn't put more than 4,000 miles on her, collectively, things seem to be in pretty good shape. I began disassembly of the front axle. The biggest problem was getting the totally rusted cotter pins out. A real pain in the you know what. Everything else broke loose with a bit of muscle power and a long breaker bar. I got everything off the driver's side. The brake linings need replacing. I'm hoping the drums can be turned - they look okay, but I won't know until I get them into the shop for turning. The brake hoses were toast, the rubber rotten and the fittings corroded. The lines themselves, which I thought were copper, are actually copped coated steel and have rusted away to nothing. Total replacement of everything required, plus new brake cylinders and springs. Oddly, the driver's side kingpin seems solid and the spindle moves smoothly, while the passenger side pin is shot, with lots of back and forth movement. I'm not sure how that happened, but I'm replacing both with the king pins I got at Hershey.<quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate> The Delco shocks still work, which amazed me. I'm hoping the shafts are still smooth and un-pitted. I plan to replace the seal, and, if the shafts are okay, it should be an easy rebuild. I need to source the rubber grommets for the arm mounting points. Still lots of work to do on the passenger side. More details and close up photos when I get the entire front end apart. <quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate> I need to get new bearings and seals for the front wheels. I don't want to make the same mistake that Phil did in 1980 and destroy the seals by taking them out and then finding out that I can't get new ones. Anybody have a good source?<quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate>
  22. Thanks for all the kind comments and the encouragement - it's greatly appreciated. Now on to more entertaining matters - the resurrection of Daphne.<quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate><quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate> My brother flew out from his home in Denver and we drove to Hershey from my place in Illinois. Nice drive, plenty of sunshine and a chance to catch up as we don't see each other that often. The weather was good on Wednesday and we parked and hit the Green field first, contacting Larry (yirgaman) who had everything waiting for us. All the items were as advertised - a nice, relined gas tank, new king pins and the interior door handle I needed. Larry threw in a spring and escutcheon which was really nice. While there I noticed a glass case filled with other small goodies. Despite having a tail light, these were so much better than mine, so I bought one - for less than I paid for my rough one. Thanks Larry! Larry's space was at the North end of the Green Field and near the cross walk so I managed to carry everything back to the car without much of a problem. Then it was on to the South Chocolate Field to hook up with Jim (sandbarfarm 31) and pick up a radiator. It was advertised as coming from a 30,000 mile car that had been rodded and it sure met those standards. I won't know for sure until I take it to the radiator shop for a checkout, but it looked good to me. Luckily, Jim had a dolly and we made the long, long trip back to the car. We walked around some more and I managed to find a set of spring shackles and pick up lots of cards from restoration suppliers and chrome shops. We spotted this Stanley Steamer near the Car Corral. My brother found a car he really liked in the car corral - a 1932 Chevrolet, all original, with 19,000 miles. He was tempted, but his small garage and transport problems made it impossible, but he wanted that car! Then the rains came. We headed for the Coker Tire space and I got a big discount on six 5.50 - 18 Firestone blackwalls and saved myself a ton is shipping costs. Thankfully, they had wheeled cars available, and we made another long journey back to the car. Along the way, we spotted Wayne Carini of Chasing Classic Cars fame trying to cover up his big, open cars before the rain ruined the leather upholstery. We got the tires back to the car, slipping and sliding down the grassy hill of the parking lot, and then made the trek back to Coker to return the cart. By that time we were both exhausted and headed back to the motel for some well deserved rest. The rain dampened things for the next two days, so we attended the Dodge Brothers Club dinner on Friday night and headed home on Saturday. A great, if slightly wet trip, and I picked up some much needed items for the restoration. <quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate><quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate>
  23. Like any old car you have to keep on top of things, but these old Mopars are very solid, dependable cars that are generally easy to work on. Check for front floor rot as the cowl vents often leak over the years and water collects under the front rubber mat and tends to promote rust in these areas. Get a shop manual - I have one if you're interested. It is very complete and well illustrated and will take you through any repairs you may need to make. I've had a 48 Plymouth and a 50 Dodge Wayfarer, and both were excellent cars. They aren't great on the freeway as 60 is about the top end for most, but you can install an overdrive if highway driving is your forte. On back roads they drive great, with a smooth ride and super cushy seats. The only thing that always seems to be a pain is getting the rear brake drums off if you need to work on the brakes. Plenty of posts here on how to do it, but that is one pain in the neck in my opinion.
  24. Thanks everyone for the kind words. I hope I didn't come off as too much of a crybaby. It is what it is and I'll continue on with the low cost aspects of the restoration for the time being - if there is such a thing as "low cost" when it comes to these great old cars.