Taylormade

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Everything posted by Taylormade

  1. Also, add the cost of rechroming the bumpers. Nice looking car.
  2. I think Gary and the rest of the folks on the forum were just trying to answer your questions as best they could. It’s not our job to prove your car is or is not a genuine woodie, but to offer advice on finding the truth. This seems to be your main concern. If you want a nice car that is fun to drive and show at local events, it makes no difference. If you want to strive for national awards and high resale value, you’d better make sure of the car’s origin before you spend big bucks to finish the Pontiac. The word of an auctioneer, a friend or a wife, however well intentioned, do not constitute proof that the car started out as a woodie. You need numbers. Trust me, if you offer the completed car at a premium price in the future, and a prospective buyer asked for documentation that the vehicle is a real woodie, “Prove it’s not!” is not going to go over very well.
  3. Another problem can be getting the body up over the steering column and steering wheel.
  4. I believe the Dodge uses the shorter block. Chrysler and DeSoto used the longer block.
  5. I see the problem. My car’s body was channeled over the frame and it was necessary to remove the running board splash pans and a metal strip that held captive bolts that attached to the frame. I can’t tell if this is the case with your car. I know my 29 Plymouth’s body sat on the top of the frame, but by 1932 many cars had the body channeled for a lower, sleeker look. At any rate, we lifted the body off using a floor lift, placing the support pads under the door hinges. Not ideal, but it was the only way we could figure out how to do it. We could have done it with four or five guys muscling it off - but then you have to put it somewhere, this without scratching the paint. I was lucky, as Dodge Brothers bodies were all steel, with no wood sills or framework. If, as Mark Gregory states, your Reo has a wood frame work, you will have to be very careful as any rotten wood could cause the body to twist or sag when removed from the support of the frame. I’d go very slowly, checking the body as you go. If the wood needs replacing, you’re probably going to loose that nice paint job on the body. Make note of any and all body shims and keep them plainly marked, as they will determine the door hang and clearance. Since they need painting, take all four fenders off first. Keep track of fender welt and other welting around the running boards. Obviously, remove the hood, the running boards, the front and back lights and anything attached to the frame as Tinindian points put. Personally, I would remove the fenders, the running boards and the running board splash pans and take a good look at the frame. If the wood in the body is good, you could mask off and protect the body and restore the frame with the body on. I know you won’t get the area on top of the frame, but if it appears to not be too corroded you may want to take that route. Good luck with your project!
  6. That looks like a very nice car. What problems with the frame do you have that need repair? Is the body channeled over the frame like my 32 Dodge Brothers, or does it rest on the top of the frame rails. Unless your frame really needs attention, lifting the body is a lot of work.
  7. Beyond saying that’s one of the best looking delivery trucks I’ve ever seen, I can’t help you. I wonder if any are still around?
  8. Owner says it was an 8 out of 10 fifty years ago when they stuck it in a barn. Check out the rust holes at the bottom rear of the body. A perfectly good car ruined by indifference and neglect. Only a dedicated Dodge Brothers fan is going to tackle this restoration since you can buy a nice one for a fourth of the cost of the restoration. I sense the odious scent of rat rod wafting in from the barn.
  9. I actually love the pattern, but it strikes me that it is too large in scale to fit the car. I was expecting a much smaller version of that design, which I think would fit the overall look a bit better. Color and look are dead on.
  10. I knew I wasn’t going crazy - I saw the request on the Dodge Brothers Club site on Facebook. I directed the poster to this post.
  11. Someone on the site is looking for this exact light, but I can’t find the darn post. Just saw it 15 minutes ago, and now It’s disappeared into the void. Hopefully he’ll see this post and get in touch.
  12. I do remember the incredibly sappy promo song that went with the car’s introduction - ‘Ford, Thunderbird, Lincoln, Mercury, Continental...and happy day, happy day, the brand new Edsel’s on it’s way!
  13. Since the grill looked like a toilet bowl, I wasn’t impressed. Over the years it’s kind of grown on me.
  14. A lot of this is related to the overall condition of the engine. Is it badly worn, is the oil pump in spec, is the pressure relief valve set up correctly? I’d take a look at the oil pump to start, and then go from there.
  15. Not to get too far into the weeds, but should a 26 Dodge Brothers have chrome or nickel plating. Some dim memory tells me that the 1927 Pontiac was the first car to use chrome plating - don’t quote me on that! Just wondering.
  16. Again, no three positions, just two - on or off. I think the remote starter button theory is the correct one, thus three terminals on a two way switch.
  17. I did mine with the engines fully assembled. It won’t hurt anything with the engine partly or fully disassembled, just make sure to dry everything off and leave no standing water. Put down a tarp or other protection if you do this in your driveway- you’ll never get the rust stains out of the concrete, otherwise. And you're blasting the water passages through the plug holes, not into the cylinders. The mess will shoot out of the other open holes. Take of the water pump, too, as this will give you a large opening at the front of the block to spray into. Trust me, you want to replace the plugs at all cost - easy to do and cheap. Any good auto parts store will have, or can get, the plugs.
  18. Remove all the casting/freeze plugs. Get a pressure washer. Get the nozzle inside one of the openings and blast away. Use a coat hanger to rod out any stubborn areas. Blast in all the openings, in different directions. You will be amazed how much crud will come out. Keep blasting until the water comes out clear. Wait a few minutes, rod out the passages with the coat hanger one more time, then blast again. I’ve done it many times - 48 Plymouth, 29 Plymouth, 32 Dodge Brothers, 50 Dodge - works like a charm. You really want to remove the plugs anyway as they tend to rust from the inside.
  19. No luck. I forgot the last one I had was broken in half and missing a big chunk out of one end. I’ll keep my eye out.
  20. It’s hard to tell from the pictures - does the hood narrow in width from front to back? If so, I ran into a similar problem and discovered the compound curve was way above my pay grade. I needed a skilled metalworker to help me out. If the hood is an equal width throughout its length, you may be able to pull it off using the pipe method.
  21. Yes, that’s the style I was thinking of. Should look great.
  22. No water distribution tube in the early engines. Not sure when they came in, but my 32 Dodge Brothers six doesn’t have one. If your motor doesn’t have the full water jacket (if you can see the shape of the cylinders on the side of the block) then you don’t have the tube.
  23. I’m not sure if this would work, due to the metal thickness and type of paint on these old cars, but I’d have a “paint-less dent remover” technician take a look at the problem and see if he could work them out.
  24. Are the stainless roof bows going to be visible? On my 32 they are wood and used to give support for the headliner, which is stapled to the bows. My bows are hidden by the headliner. I have seen some DBs with visible bows, but they have been finished wood or cloth covered. Just curious where you’re going with this.