Taylormade

There is a closeup of the product information in the original post. The label gives the product and part number.

Pennsylvania license plate - but it's a big state.

I just discovered the work of Martin Lewis, an Australian born artist that worked mostly in New York in the twenties and thirties. Any antique car buff should like these magnificent etchings that really capture the feel of the period. Mr. Lewis passed away in 1962 and is virtually forgotten today.

It looked like mine would take 1/2 inch bolts with no problem, but all four of my bolts were 7/16. I'll let you know how it all work out, Can't wait to get my lights and bumpers on after seeing your 31!

1937 Pontiac.

On to the next problem. Take it from someone who's been there, there WILL be another problem. Glad this one worked itself out.

I wish I could agree, but our area of the state (Illinois) is one of the poorest. Most industry and manufacturing are long gone. The high school is our town's largest employer. Most of the local cars are home restorations. But I do agree that the cars are wonderful and the folks that own them are a friendly bunch.

I checked the photo of the puller you had made on your other thread. First, if your wheels are that nice, don't cut them up. Second, the center bolt on the puller seems a bit undersized. I'm sure it's a grade 8 bolt, but I still question how much torque you can really apply. How big a wrench are you using to tighten it down? I'm sure others will chime in, and I'm no expert, but I don't think you can apply enough force to the axel with that setup if the wheel is really stuck.

Are you sure the brakes are backed off? Cutting a wheel off without damaging the axel or surrounding parts could be difficult. Are you cranking down on the puller and then leaving it under full stress? It took me over a week to get a wheel off a 29 Plymouth I had.

The ad says barn collapse. Ouch.

I'm no authority on this, but I have had terrible problems with paint when it was sprayed or brushed anywhere silicon was used. Do you anticipate any problems after using the silicon lube on the windows? I know Windex won't get rid of it. This may not be a problem if you won't be painting in the area. The windows look great, by the way.

Got to be one of the best looking coupes ever built. Factory chopped top and all!

It's always the little things that trip you up. I took my bumper supports to the powder-coater yesterday to get a nice, durable gloss black finish applied. When I got back home I sorted out all the parts I'd need for installation of the bumpers and realized I'd never found a source for the end bolts that hold the bumpers to the supports. It's basically a carriage bolt without the square section below the head. After much searching two years ago, I had come up empty, then totally forgot about it until yesterday. Mine were far too rusty to save, and two of them broke off when I removed them, so I was in trouble. On line, I finally managed to find some stainless carriage bolts that I thought might work. I could grind down the square under the bolt head and polish them. Then I got one of my usual hair-brained ideas and called up Snyder's Antique Auto Parts. They sell (dare I mention the name) Ford Model A parts. I thought Model A bumper bolts might be close. Shelly, who answered my call, said she'd measure their bolts and get back to me. I got the e-mail this morning. Their stainless polished bumper bolts are 7/16 by 5 inches, exactly the same size as mine. Unbelievable! I ordered four (I have a solid rear bumper since my car has side-mounts. so i didn't need six.) Problem solved and at half the price of the other stainless bolts I was looking at. I get the nuts and washers, too. My car is a very early model, built during the first week of the production run. I was lucky in this regard, as the bolts were changed sometime during the model year. Later built cars have much larger bolts with a head that's twice as big as my piddly little things. I like the look of the later bumpers, but I'll take this find as a lucky break. Bumpers going on as soon as I get the brackets back, fresh chrome on all four bumper bars. The 32 DL has some of the nicest looking bumpers out there, especially the front bumper, as evidenced by Phil Kennedy's nice original - with the larger bolts. I got another break this morning. When I bought the car, the front bumper was held on by some odd, square-headed bolts that were obviously not original and way too small. The back bumper was held on by larger hexagon bolts that screwed directly into fittings on the frame. i have always assumed (for the last 42 years) that the front mount fittings were stripped, thus the smaller, odd bolts. So, as I sat on the garage floor in front of the car, I was trying to figure out how to mount the front bumper. Bolts would go through the holes and out the back, sticking out above the front of the front springs, where I could get a nut and washer on them, but it looked terrible. Then I thought I might be able to re-tap new threads into the hole if it wasn't too torn up. As a final solution, maybe I could drill out the hole, weld in an insert and tap it for the correct threads. Naturally the frame is powder-coated and I have both front fenders installed, so this would mean disassembly and...I know, I know, what was I thinking? So, I got one of the bolts off the back of the frame and tried it up front to see if any of the threads were still in there and to determine the size of the tap I would need. The darn thing screwed right in! Tight, solid - the threads were there all the time and in very good shape. Why the bumper was installed with these smaller bolts escapes me. Maybe the PO lost the original bolts and used whatever he had lying around as a jury-rigged temporary solution that was never corrected. That fact that I never checked before this is certainly not a good reflection on my restoration skills - or lack thereof. On to the next catastrophe!

I had to cut my old bearing off the mount to get it off. Not a fun job.

My 32 Dodge Brothers has a similar setup. It has a flexible braided hose that runs from the fitting on the bearing out through a grommeted hole in the bell housing to an accessible grease cup. The manual suggests one turn of the grease cup top every 500 miles.

You may want to check the male end of the fitting that the flare rests against. If the surface is nicked or even slightly damaged, you can get leaks. Keep at it, you'll get there.

Did you keep the original motor? I had a 50 Wayfarer Sportabout that had a frame so rusted out it was useless. I found a nice 241 Red Ram Hemi and was going to install it over a modified frame with modern suspension. Then I found my first car, a 32 Dodge Brothers, and sold the 50 and my 48 Plymouth to pay for the all-original restoration of my 32. I figure most people listen to about half of my half-baked ideas and actually implement about ten percent of them. ?

Sorry if my post offended you. You'll notice that your slit post came after my post and was not a response to your comment. I have been helped by countless folks on this site over the years and try to return the favor whenever I can. I don't do it for a pat on the back, I do it to try and share what little information I have. I'm not always right, but others always join in, and the collective often finds a solution.

Something isn't right. The new lines have much deeper centers. Spinnyhill has a point, but I did 45 degree double flares on my 32 Dodge Brothers and had no problems. I didn't think they used 37 degree back then, especially on American cars.. Some info here may help. http://www.fedhillusa.com/?page=flare

Can you post a picture of the old and new flare for comparison?

Grog, it's just always been the Pana Car Show. It happens at the end of September each year. Closing the main drag in our town is not a big deal - plenty of side streets and not much weekend traffic.

I meant it as a compliment. Yes, we are up early and work hard, but we tend to go about it in a rather laid back manner. No traffic, most folks know each other, and we all go about our business without a lot of unnessessary excitement. I much prefer it to my days in St. Louis, Missouri.

I live in the small town of Pana, Illinois. It's a typical mid-western sort of place, kind of sleepy, laid back and quiet. It used to be the Rose Capitol of America, with dozens of massive greenhouses growing roses for florists across the country. They are all gone now, along with a small refinery, the coal mines and a time-clock factory. We still have a decent Main Street, with a movie theater, auto parts stores and the usual assortment of shops, bars and restaurants. The two main industries that support the town and employ most of the people are the High School and the farmers. We grow a heck of a lot of corn and soybeans around here. Whenever I go to Brunner's NAPA, it's full of farmers buying tractor parts and discussing the weather, crop yields and politics. Out annual car show brings in lots of cool vehicles from surrounding towns. It amazes me that such a small area has this many hidden gems sleeping in local garages and barns. I thought you might like to see a few of the cars on display this last weekend. It was a fifty-fifty mix of hot rods and originals.

Either there is a problem with the flares, or you don't have the fittings tight enough. Are you using Dot 5 silicon brake fluid? Did you use an open brake line wrench?