Taylormade

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Everything posted by Taylormade

  1. Externally it looks like the BB on my 1932 Dodge Brothers sedan. Mine is really for a 32 DeSoto, but the two motors are almost identical and it works fine on my car. As Carbking says, without the tag, you just can't tell.
  2. Retapping to 1/4 inch is the obvious answer. There is plenty of meat on the plate, so it should be an easy process. I like to keep things as original as possible, but since most of it is hidden inside the wood block, I'm not going to have a coronary over it. Thanks for all the advice. And I tried all the outlets suggested above with no luck. It's the length that is the problem.
  3. Those are coarse threads #12-24. I need fine thread, #12-28. Thanks for trying!
  4. 2.25 would work, but I figured they would be impossible to find. The two inch were just short - just. I may just retap the holes for a 1/4 inch bolt that is easy to find.
  5. The rearmost wooden floorboard. The four bolts along the back are just an inch long, so that was no problem. The two front bolts pass through the floorboard and a wood block spacer before they thread into a tab on the frame. Sometimes you just have to wonder, something this minor ends up holding things up for days.
  6. I’m looking for some #12-28 bolts - either hex head or slotted screw head. My local auto shop has them up to 2 inches.. Naturally, I need 2-1/2” length. I’ve tried Grainger, Amazon and other usual suspects with no luck. I guess this is an odd size. There is a plethora of #10 and 1/4” bolts in all lengths, but the meager supply of #12 resides in a small specialty box with maximum length of 2 inches. Since I only need two, I don’t think having a batch of ten thousand made up in China works for me. Any suggestions?
  7. If your shift lever comes out of the top of your transmission, with no side levers or mechanism, it is probably original. The 53 had a column shifter, an entirely different beast.
  8. What type of rivets do you plan to use? Getting ready to do a similar operation on my 32 Dodge Brothers.
  9. The results are in, the Stat-O-Seal washers did the job on my leaking brake connections. Once I installed them, the leaking stopped - period. Not a drop of fluid anywhere. They are a combination crush washer and rubber seal. Don't get the steel variety, get the aluminum, as they act as a crush washer and rubber seal. I got mine from Speedway Motors. I needed two sizes, one for the outer part of the banjo bolt and the other for the threaded section. I also got most of the floor spacers done for the floorboards. They rest on the frame and keep the actual floorboards at the correct level. Here you can see the old and the new. The holes in the old piece are there to clear rivets and bolts on the frame. I haven't drilled them yet on the new spacers. Sitting in place on the bottom of the floorboards. The old floorboards before I removed them from the car. And the new ones partially finished.
  10. Bummer. Back to the workshop - glad everyone is okay.
  11. Got the three rear most floorboards cut out and routed the edges. The rear floorboard has the mounting holes drilled and the cutout for the differential plate. The attaching edges are routed for an overlapping fit. I still haven't sanded the edges, cut out the battery access, or cleaned things up. The routing was done on my Bosch router table. I was worried about tear-out on the plywood, but I got very clean cuts on all the boards. Each floorboard has a mounting pad made of wood, and attached to each short end, that rests on the top of the frame rail. The wood is 1-1/8" thick, three inches and a quarter inches wide, and the length of the floorboard. Getting lumber of that dimension proved impossible. Rather than having a sawmill plane it for me, I bought some oak from a big box store and glued two pieces together. This gives me a chunk of wood 1-1/4" thick and 3-1/2 wide. I'll use my router to knock off an eight of an inch of the thickness and a quarter inch off the width, and then I can cut the resulting stock to the correct lengths. I should have everything wrapped up by tomorrow evening.
  12. Not to be a wise guy, but that’s in there for a reason. Did the car run and drive before you took it apart? I find it strange that it would be missing - unless the trans was out and disassembled before you bought it. I could be wrong, maybe someone was driving the car around for years with the part missing with no problem. Any chance it’s hiding somewhere, misplaced when you rebuilt the unit? Been there, done that.
  13. Same problem with Roberts, but they were totally up front about it and didn’t claim to have the correct cylinders. Keiser31, I’m surprised the 31 and 32 are different. I never noticed until I received my cylinders and discovered the difference. It’s slight - so slight I can’t imagine why the bothered to make them different. Just a slight difference in the bolt hole spacing.
  14. Well, I know the Bernbaum parts won’t fit the rears on my 32DL. Call them and get the song and dance about drilling your backing plates so they will fit. I don’t know why they continue to list them when they are wrong. A guy on eBay is always listing a set of four and they have the same problem. The rear cylinders have an odd spacing between bolt holes and no one seems to have them. I had my original cylinders sleeved.
  15. You both may be correct. Phil is correct, the stuff is evenly coated and rock hard. But the concave metal plate screwed to the rear-most floorboard is loaded with grease, that also splattered over some of the floorboard. This deposit appears to have been donated by a leaking differential, or, possibly, the rear ball joint. So, keiser31 may be correct, also. Either way, it’s a mess.
  16. You may be correct on that. It’s a mess, whatever the gunk is! I always assumed it was some sort of protective coating, but the more I think about it, the more I think you’re right. I should have learned by now - never assume anything when you’re restoring a car.
  17. Now that I have the four blanks cut out, it's time to do some routing, shaping and drilling to get them ready.
  18. I'm working on the wood floors of the body. It seems strange that they still used wood for the flooring in 1932, but it is what it is. I would have loved to use the original floors (there are four pieces) but I couldn't. The tops of the pieces is in pretty good shape, but at some point a previous owner had the bottom of the car sprayed with some sort of asphalt rustproofing and this stuff is impossible to get off. It clogs up any type of sandpaper I've tried to use, and heat is only going to set the wood on fire. Nice top surface... Crummy bottom... Plus the floorboard around the transmission area was badly degraded by years of water leaking through the cowl vents. You can see the delaminating plywood. I'm cutting the new floor pieces out of marine plywood, which uses waterproof glue and is designed to stand up against moisture and wet conditions.
  19. Powder coating has come a long way since the nineties. I agree with Spinneyhill, a good powder coat with a zinc undercoat is the way to go. My coater gave me a bag of my wheel color powder. You can mix it with clear epoxy for touch ups - although I haven’t had any chips yet.
  20. I strongly suggest you post this in the Buick Pre War section on this forum. Those guys have lots of good advice and extensive knowledge of these old Buicks. You’ll get quick answers to your questions.
  21. How is the wood in the body? That always seems to be the big stumbling block in restoring these old Buick’s. Looks like a nice car, glad you’re going to save it.
  22. Try down on the Buick Prewar site. You’ll probably get more responses.
  23. Taylormade

    Valve adjustment

    Yeah, as Spinneyhill says, it's no fun, especially getting in there past the fender, under the exhaust manifold and behind the carb. How noisy are the lifters? All engines make some noise, but a noticeable clicking means you need to adjust them.