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Everything posted by Taylormade

  1. ‘I know the manifold I bought from them fit my 48 Plymouth perfectly. It was identical to the one I took off. I would call them, they were very helpful and answered all my concerns. But, as I said, not cheap.
  2. I bought a reconditioned manifold from Vintage Power Wagons about eight years ago. It looked brand new when it arrived. They specialize in military parts, but back then they had manifolds that fit my 48 Plymouth perfectly. I just checked their catalog and they still have them under the motor parts section. They have both intake and exhaust manifolds. Might be worth taking a look, although the aren’t cheap.
  3. If you go to my thread The Resurrection Of Daphne - A 1932 DL in the Dodge and Dodge Brothers section... Near the end of page 19 I detail the rebuilding of my transmission and freewheeling unit. It's covered over several pages. It should tell you everything you need to know about the process. Let me know if you need anything else.
  4. In your PM you mentioned that you were having trouble getting the freewheeling unit off. I have a 1932 Dodge Brothers DL, so there may be differences in our transmissions, but maybe this will help. My car was one of the first DLs built in December 1931 and has the first style of freewheeling clutch used, so it may be the same as yours. Here is my transmission and freewheeling unit out of the car and with the top of the tranny removed. The top comes off by removing the six bolts and lifting the part straight up. The gearshift and the emergency brake parts have obviously been re
  5. I know it’s a thankless job, but to me the new layout is much harder to read. Navigation may just seem more difficult as the appearance has changed and things have been moved around. But my main complaint is the new graphic style. It seems clumsy and hopelessly complex. I much preferred the much easier to read “old” style. Once you get into a thread, it’s fine, but getting there is just plain ugly. Just my two cents and probably worth half that.
  6. Fill them with grease and turn the top in during periodic maintenance. My 32 Dodge Brothers has one on the tube going to the throwout bearing.
  7. In the one step forward, two steps back category, I discovered a small problem with my pedal assembly yesterday. As I got ready to bleed the brakes in anticipation of driving Daphne around the block for the first time later this month, I noticed the brake pedal was a bit wobbly on its shaft. I seem to recall sometime in the distant past totally ignoring this when I first restored the unit. maybe it didn't seem so bad back then, but it's too bad to allow to go unchecked. So, off came the unit. The good news is that it's only held on by four bolts, and even with the body now on, I can acces
  8. Thanks, Tory. I have a good set as we discussed in our emails. But thanks for the upper windshield hinge pieces that you sent me.
  9. Considering you’re paying for patterns to make an entirely new boat, I’m not too sure about the price - especially since the original motor is long gone. I find it strange that Dodge used Lycoming Motors when they had a dependable six of their own that they could use. Maybe it was too heavy for the boat.
  10. Is there a way to make the posts larger, the way they used to be - filling the page from left to right. The new look seems to feature small boxes crammed over to the left side of the page. Photos are tiny and the type is impossibly small. Is there a setting to turn posts to full page?
  11. For some reason I lost track of this thread. I began posting questions like this on my restoration thread and I must have forgotten to return here and reveal the final outcome. It turned out my drums were still within specifications. I had a local shop do a real skim turning, taking off just enough to get rid of the slight ridge that had formed. The brakes are now rebuilt and functioning.
  12. Does the never painted black only apply to Chrysler CM cars? My 1932 Dodge Brothers was definitely painted all black, with the color chalked on inside the body. The build tag I got from Chrysler Historical also identifies the factory body color as black.
  13. Installed the felt padding on the floorboards. The marine plywood is really tough. I bent numerous tacks and finally had to drill a shallow pilot hole to get the tacks started. Then I could drive them home. The old floorboards had enough of the felt still attached to give me the necessary pattern. Kind of difficult to photograph black felt on black wood, but you get the idea from these shots. When I put the boards back in the car I could not believe how much the felt softened the interior noise and made the boards snug down into place.
  14. I just did a deflection test. I put 150 pounds of weights on the middle of the floorboards and they deflected 1/4 of an inch. I performed the same test on the old floorboard (same section) that was in the best shape. It also deflected 1/4 of an inch. So, although mine have the grain going the wrong way, they appear to have about the same strength. Maybe the seven layers and the waterproof glue gave me a bit of an edge over standard plywood. Given these rather crude tests, I think I am okay to go with what I have.
  15. So, apparently, my new floorboards are incorrect. The plywood I used is marine grade with what appears to be seven layers. I guess I’ll have to rethink things and perhaps start over. The sheet of plywood was $97, so this is rather painful.
  16. It looks like the original was about 1/8th of an inch. Here is a remaining original piece on one of the old floorboard supports (removed from the bottom of the floorboard). You can see the black felt tacked to the bottom of the wood. This rested on the top of the frame with the felt sandwiched in between the frame and the wood. I bought this roll of felt years ago and I've forgotten where. It may have been Restoration Specialties, but I'm not sure. It's exactly the same size and thickness (allowing for some compression in the original over the years).
  17. Got the rear floorboards finished and painted. Just have to install the felt strips for padding against the frame and they'll be ready to put in the car.
  18. Only a few inches. I've already made the floorboards from marine plywood, so I'm sticking with that. I'm thinking the Homasote i used for the front floorboard pads might work as it has a high fire rating. it's thicker than the original asbestos sheet, but I think it will clear the frame cross members without a problem.
  19. Okay, I need some help here. Any advice will be more than welcome. As I showed several postings ago, my wooden floorboard had a hole burned through it by heat from the muffler. When I examined the floorboard closely, I could see remnants of what I assume was asbestos sheet that had been nailed to the board. At some point the sheet must have fallen off or failed in some way. I obviously don't want a repeat event and have Daphne burned to the ground on some pleasant spring outing. This really could have been a disaster... I know asbestos is a big no-no t
  20. Tory, I have a detailed explanation with pictures of how I made new brake lines on my restoration thread in this section of the site.
  21. Here is the top before I removed it. The holes in the front are from a huge ice slab that fell on the car when Phil Kennedy, the PO, owned it. The padding was totally eaten by mice.
  22. Torry - My top is in pretty good shape. The wood is still good and the metal surround pieces are all there and in good shape. I may replace the screws that hold the wood and metal together once I determine how rusty they are and clean and paint the metal. I have already purchased the top covering and the inner padding.
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