Taylormade

I actually also do like to do as much as I can by myself. I cast urethane parts for my firewall and sidemount parts, but the engine mounts have to be vulcanized to avoid a dangerous situation should the rubber separate from the metal. I wanted to do the mounts myself until I discovered the equipment and heat process was beyond my skills and budget.

Some guys over on the ford Barn were discussing this topic. Here are several comments I found interesting. I recently purchased a 1910 Kissel Car model D10 Toy Tonneau. I checked the transmission for oil. Someone had filled it with grease, and it looked to be like the sticky slimy corn head grease. The insides of the transmission case were coated with the stuff and I could still see all of the way to the dry bottom of the case. The grease had coated the walls of the transmission like stucco, and the gears had nothing on them. I scooped out all I could and brought the transmission up to its full level with 600W. What I could not scrape off eventually melted into the 600 W mix. Now the transmission is too full of oil and it is now leaking a sticky black goo out onto the floor. The transmission needs its 600W for proper lubrication. Anything heavier may not return to the gears fast enough for proper lubrication. I have rethought the corn grease in trans, NOT GONNA HAPPEN. In goes 600 and be safe. I can see the foolish mistake of the grease being flipped off the gears and sticking to the case,and not lubing the gears. Well I will not be putting grease in Trans!

I finally got everything back together again. So far, no leaks, but I'm done if something reappears. The final solution - a large pan under the car. Just taking the free-wheeling unit off made the job much easier, but it was still a pain with the body on the frame. New gaskets, paint on the fasteners and some retouching on the paint and she's ready to go. Spent the morning cutting and buffing the dash, getting ready to get the instruments back in. Now that the trans is back in and the motor, transmission is properly supported, I can finally attempt to start the motor for the first time. I think I mentioned I was going to do that about 8 months ago, but it proved to be another flight a fancy, with winter and a knee operation getting in the way. Hopefully it will happen within the next two weeks. Trans before and after...

The poster stated he was going to use Corn Head grease in his transmission and rear end. Several of us questioned if this was a good idea. We were not posting as know it alls or scolds, but as fellow car enthusiasts who were worried that this might cause problems. If capacity was the only question, why post about what you were going to fill it with? My 32DL also took a little over a quart in the tranny and half a quart in the differential.

I know Corn Head grease is supposed to be good for steering boxes, but I’m unsure about transmissions and rear ends. Have you talked to anyone who has tried it in these applications?

Vulcanizing is a controlled heat process done in custom molds. Urethane is not going to bond to the metal of the mount sufficiently and will pull loose. By the time you make the molds and buy the materials, I think you will find Tom’s service a real bargain. And your mounts will work as originally designed.

Bob, don’t tell me Colorado isn’t going to let you license that beautiful green and black speedster! Say it isn’t so.

Yeah, I had the body off when I removed mine.

Boy, that transmission bears no resemblance to my 32 gear box. Totally different set-up. The free wheeling extension on my unit is the big difference - that’s where my rubber mount attaches. No free wheeling on the 33 that I can see - actually, I take that back. That may be a free wheeling device on the rear, behind the gears. Anyway, it’s nothing like the 32. The 33 mount is much easier to get to.

That’s are definately different than the mount on my 32 DL. I’m having trouble figuring out the orientation from your photographs. Any chance we could get a wider view with trans visible. On my car, I had the motor and transmission out, so removing them was no problem. I know with my car, you absolutely have to support the rear of the motor if you remove the rear mount with the motor in places. Have you checked with The And Now to make sure they can revulcanize your mounts. If your rear mount is mush, I would check the other mounts for condition.

It appears to be a Buffalo wire wheel hub with the hubcap in place. Note the holes in the hub for the spokes. I assume that’s what’s left of the spare tire bracket on the back.

Not sure if yours is the same as my 32DL, but my lever and shaft are held on by a Clum switch that fits on the bottom of the shaft. Remove the Clum switch and the lever shaft pulls out from the top.

My dad was. GM executive, so talk of Ford or Mopar in our home was discouraged at all times. I was in the GM building with our family the night they introduced the 57 models. When the white cover came off the 57 Chevy convertible, it stopped the show. They may have sold more Fords that yer, but they must have been rust prone or something, because there are a lot more 57 Chevies around these days.

Radiator full and ready to go.

I admit the electrical end of auto restoration is my weakness. So, possibly a dumb question, but when first starting a motor, will you damage the generator if you run the motor without hooking up the generator to the wiring harness. I just want to make sure the motor runs properly and the water pump works before I start hooking everything up under the dash. 1932 Dodge Brothers DL.

I wasn’t knocking what LeBaron Bonney told me, I have no doubt they can’t get the cloth I need at the moment. I’m going to check in with my buddy Phil Kennedy and see if he can tell what’s on his all original front seat. After this discussion, I don’t think it’s hidem. Probably wire-on or double welt.

Do you have any idea of the general area where the leaks, are coming from? Did you actually start the motor, or just fill it with oil and wait until the next day, when you discovered the leaks? If you never started the motor, the leaks have to be coming from somewhere below the top of the oil pan, perhaps, as FlatTop suggests, from pinholes in the pan. What make and year of car are we talking about? In my experience, slathering on sealant, rather than finding the source or cause of a leak, is the wrong way to go.

My 32 DL also has the double ball setup.

That’s an optical illusion because you're Looking down on the cord from an angle. It’s consistently the same size on both sides. Now that I look at the photos, it does look like double welt cord more than hidem.

Spinnyhill, here are some shots of my friend Phil Kennedy's original 32DL front seat. You can see the hidem running along the top edge of the seat all the way down to the floor. The last shot probably shows it the best. You can separate the two sides and see tacks below.

I sure would like to see a side shot of this vehicle. It has a back seat and more area behind the rear seat. It looks great from the front, and my grandkids would love that extra seat, but I wonder if it looks a bit ungainly from the side. Then again, it may look terrific.

They used hidem on the top of the front seat to hide the area where the back seat cushion is tacked to the seat frame. And thanks everyone for the leads, but these are all vinyl hidem, which is very easy to find. I’m looking for hidem made with wool broadcloth that would match (come close) to my medium brown interior.

This is located in Central Illinois in the town of Matoon. The plate seems to be missing, we couldn’t find it, in any case.

Tortuga Marine just has vinyl.

My upholstery guy can do it, but the post I saw had hidem that matched the door welting I have for the car.