Taylormade
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Posts posted by Taylormade
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Just now, zepher said:
That left front tire being low on air may have contributed to your issues.
Not my car, I hated mine enough to never take a photo of it. Just a reference photo, although the color is correct. 😄
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Absolutely the worst car ever. The clutch cable broke six times over the two years I owned this pile of junk - and I bought it new. It must have felt the hate as it tried to kill me late one night when I was driving home. I had the radio up full blast as I was tired and feared falling asleep. Then, you guessed it, the radio went out - dead. A few minutes later I fell asleep at the wheel and plowed into the back of a trailer at seventy miles an hour. Crushed breastbone and broken ribs. The car was totaled. My only regret - other than buying the thing - was that I wasn't able to see it go into the crusher.
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Cars like this always catch my attention. For some reason (that only a psychiatrist might explain) I’m drawn to late twenties/early thirties sedans, probably since my first car and current car is a one in the same 1932 Dodge Brothers sedan with sidemounts and wire wheels. My car and this old girl would have been rivals in the showrooms of the time. Even back then I probably would have gone with the Dodge for the all steel body verses the wood body construction of the Olds. I paid four grand nine years ago for my ride, mainly because it was my actual first car that I found again after forty years. It was in slightly better condition than the car offered above. As I’m nearing completion of my restoration, I know exactly what is required in labor and cash to get something like this back on the road. I have to wonder how many in the hobby would want to tackle a project like this. This style and period of vehicle seems to be rather out of favor these days, although most folks seem to like my car when they see it. I hope you find a buyer, although the asking price may (or may not) be a bit too high for such a major project. Best of luck.
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I think I would have gone with gray carpet, but a really nice looking car.
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Well, the good news is that I’m still alive. The bad news is I really slacked off on Daphne this winter. But I have all new window glass, my door panels and rear seat are due back from the upholstery shop next week and I’ll be cleaning the garage this week, taking the car off the jack stands and moving it into the larger part of the garage. Hopefully I’ll make some progress in the next few months. It’s Daphne’s ninetieth Birthday this year and I owe it to her to get her on the road.
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Getting the accelerator pedal on those little knobs is a real,pain. Depending on whether it’s a NOS or a repo, the rubber may have hardened over the years. In either case, you really have to force them on - which makes sense as you don’t want it to flop off while you’re driving. Since most pedals have steel backing, you can put quite a lot of force on it - just make sure you are pressing right over the two bottom knobs and I found putting the upper, linkage knob in place first, works better.
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Indiana I suspect.
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The motor appears to be a Hemi, not a Poly.
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On 4/10/2012 at 12:26 AM, 1936 D2 said:
I see there was not much more discussion on your question back in post #25 concerning brake line material.
Here is a website I found that does a pretty good job of describing this type of brake line that ply33 was talking about. Home Page I'm pretty sure he was speaking of a brake line with a trade name of "Cunifer". It is a 90/10 alloy that is supposed to be much more flexible than stainless steel, more corrosion resistant and has a higher burst strength. This may be what you have used but I didn't think it was as deep of a copper color as your lines. You will find it at many places including the site above, "Eastwood Company", "J.C. Whitney", most reputable auto supply houses, etc.
A big thing about it, is it's easily flexed without collapse. They say it can even be tightly bent by hand. That could be a major help with some complicated projects. It is about $30.00US for 25 feet.
Best product ever. I used it on my 32DL and it is easy to bend and flare and looks great - very close to the original copper lines. Corrosion resistant and pressure rated far above what is required.
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I live close by and stop by once in a while to look over their cars - they have lots of them. I’ve seen cars sit in their storage barns for years without selling. In my opinion they are all over priced and over hyped. They must sell some of these cars as they’ve been in business for many years, but I fail to see how, all things considered. If anyone sees something that interests them, I’ll be glad to take a look for you and give you an honest appraisal.
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Depends on if you do some of the work yourself, and how much machine work and new parts it needs. I’d say the price is about right for a good running car and too high to take a risk with the motor.
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Hasn’t run in ten years and the title is questionable - not top selling points. Nice looking car, but with the aforementioned problems a bit optimistic on the price.
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Says “best offer” so I don’t think he’s giving it away.
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Although I have a 32 DL six and can’t help, I would investigate the reason your manifolds are cracking. Are they bolted on unevenly or is the block surface not true? Something isn’t right somewhere. I’d hate to have you find another one and have that crack, too. Best of luck in your search.
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Neat car, but the tires and wheels look way too small.
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I looked at one of these and was ready to buy the minute I saw it. Then I tried to sit behind the wheel in the non-adjustable front seat. Impossible at 6’2” and 250 pounds. Love these cars, but I don’t fit.
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Rare options like electric starter, six cylinder engine, shocks on a straight axle and steel wheels?
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This is a good example of why most people pass over cars that don’t provide enough pictures and information. No shots of the engine or bottom of the car. It looks shiny in the pictures, but the steering column and shift lever look terrible. Combine this with the incorrect top and you have most Dodge Brothers enthusiasts looking elsewhere. You can find good honest DB tourings of this era for ten to twelve. Several have been advertised in the club magazine over the last few years. These low speed 20s era cars are a hard sell these days. I love them, but not at this price and condition. But you may get lucky and find someone who wants it, price be damned. It’s your car and you can ask any price you want.
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Boy, I wish I was closer, this would make a great speedster.
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I’ve been working on my 1932 DL sedan for eight years. It’s a long process with a steep learning curve. Just hang in there and be patient. I found or made most of the parts I needed.
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Check Steele Rubber, Metro Molded Parts and Restoration Specialties. I couldn’t find welting for the fenders and running boards that was flexible enough, so I had a local upholstery shop make some up from boat vinyl that was a lot more flexible.
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25 minutes ago, JACK M said:
So, this guy goes out to his barn once a year to swap out the wreath and sit in his deceased wifes car.
Then his buddies take a year to restore it.
Makes sense to me.
Yeah, watching it again it does seem to be a year later, but since I'm in my eight year of restoration my original statement stands. I don't have any buddies.
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Fixed it.
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Check out this fantastic commercial from Chevrolet. And before you say they couldn't have done it that fast, just sit back and enjoy the sentiment. Someone at Chevrolet - or their ad agency - still gets our love for cars.
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Skinned Knuckles
in Parts For Sale
Posted
I have a pretty complete set of Skinned Knuckles magazines that I would like to see go to a new home. They range from 1979 to 1983 and I have some from 2003 and 2004 when the magazine started republishing. I hate to throw them away as they contain some very good information on restoration techniques and procedures. Fifty bucks or best offer plus shipping. I can provide a list of the issues if you're interested.