Taylormade

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Everything posted by Taylormade

  1. No, we made the car noises at the upholstery shop. On the wiring, I wonder if they had a small mold they poured the hot solder in and then dipped the exposed wire into it while it was still liquid. There must have been a simple and quick way to produce these things at the factory.
  2. Then maybe the wiring was original. I guess it must have mummified into what made me think it was plastic. So, now what?
  3. As I said earlier I picked up my front seat from the upholstery shop. Looks good. The new wood base I made fits perfectly which was a relief. It was hard to get a straight on shot due to current storage in my living room corner and the parallax makes the top buttons look crooked - which they are not. I'm working on my headlight wiring which was in rough shape. This is the wiring section inside the headlight itself. The socket on the left is for the bulb, the one on the right fits into a receptacle in the headlight shell and connects to the wire that goes through a chrome conduit and through the fender. As you can see, the wires are totally shot. The plastic coated wires indicate that this has been rewired in the past. The wires run into the socket through the fiber spacers and one wire through each of the two springs inside. Everything, with the exception of the wires, just needed to be cleaned up and reassembled. I have a question concerning the replacement of the wiring. This setup has the usual wire running to the raised buds or bumps that are contact points. I would like to save the original parts if possible, or am I making a mistake and should I go with replacements at this point? I assume the wire is soldered into to these tips, but I'm amazed how clean the joint is. I see virtually no signs of solder anywhere. Is there a narrow post extending down from the tip the the end of the wire surrounds and then everything is soldered? Do I need to be careful when I loosen this joint? I don't want to melt the tip in the process. Any advice here would be welcome. I also noticed the the wire insulation covered everything right to the base of the tip. I can see pulling the insulation back when making the first solder, then pushing it back up when finished. But the second set would seem to be a problem as the wire is short and I doubt the stiffness of the insulation would allow me to pull it back enough to solder. Let me know what you think. As I've stated before, electrical wiring is not my strong point.
  4. A really cool and interesting car. My only problem, and I say this with disappointment because this is a lovely car, is the seventies paint job. Who, why and when did restorers decide that beige bodies with chocolate fenders was the way to go? It’s not even mildly charming, like the old avocado green kitchen appliances - and that was the original color. I’m not sure what the original color/colors were on this car, but it had to be more attractive than the current paint job. Again, not denigrating the car, just someone’s past mistake in choosing those awful colors.
  5. Thanks, Mike, for letting all us armchair idiots know what a bunch of losers we are. Glad you took the time to breeze in and admonish all of us, as you apparently don’t sit in front of your keyboard ready to tear into posts “like a butcher with a clever” like the rest of us. This must have been a one time occurrence when you happened to do exactly what you’re criticizing the rest of us for doing. Nice to have someone with your acumen in all things automotive set the forum straight.
  6. I think Gunsmoke is just pointing out that here are very few people - even on this forum - who could undertake a restoration of this car, or who would want to, given that they would be deep in a hole financially when (if ever) they finished it. You are going to have to find a Marquette enthusiast - few and far between - with either the hands on ability, or the deep pockets to restore this car. Hard enough, but add a ten grand starting fee and you’re in never never land. He is stating the truth, either you want to sell it or save it. No one is going to promise, with any certainty, that they will “save” the car. In most cases, the buyer will probably store it in his garage/shed, look at it affectionately and dream about a restoration that will never happen. Then they - or their heirs - will flip it. They are your cars to do with what you will, but if saving them is your number one priority, better storage should have been a major consideration. Congrats on keeping them all these years, but face it, as you yourself have stated, most of them are rough and a mess.
  7. This is brutal Matt, and nothing I can say will make it any better. I remember my frustrations trying to take my rubber mounted Floating Power transmission apart on my 32 Dodge Brothers. It was a nightmare. Now I can do it blindfolded. I know you’re a long way from solving your problem, and that you may never solve it, but I sure hope things will work out with the Lincoln. The fact that this happened to a knowledgeable car dealer like yourself gives all of us pause when considering buying a higher end car.
  8. Thanks, I may be able to make it work.
  9. The shot is perfect, but the resolution is a bit too low. Is this off the net or one of your personal photos?
  10. When I'm not working on restoring my 1932 Dodge Brothers Sedan, I often work on art projects or model building. I'm currently working on a three-dimensional shadow box featuring a scene from a Film Noir film - two detectives sitting in a period car. I have two of the three elements I need, a very sharp photo of the two actors in the car taken directly from the film, and a period background of a 40s Los Angeles street at night. What I don't have is a good shot of the car they are sitting in. Try as I might, I can find nothing on the internet that works. The photo below comes as close as I can get, but it is too small and lacks the necessary detail. The rainstorm doesn't help, either. So, I'm asking if someone out there with a forties sedan (or late thirties) could take a front shot of their car, as large as possible (the quality turned up high) that matches the shot above. It may be too large to post on the site, but if you send me a PM, I'll shoot you my email. The background doesn't matter - garage, outdoors - doesn't matter as long as the car is clear. I'll be removing the background and interior in Photoshop, so the car itself is the only thing that counts. Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.
  11. Hanging in there and trying to lose some weight before I have knee replacement surgery. I actually got my newly reupholstered front seat back a few weeks ago and I’ll post some pictures after the holidays. I’ve also completed all the wood floorboards and am waiting for a warm day to paint them. I’m also working inside, wiring my headlights and cowl lights. It’s very difficult to get around at the moment with bone on bone arthritis in my right knee, but I am making progress - mostly from a seated position.
  12. If you’ve ever seen a two axle wagon (with the front axle able to turn) you’ll abandon that idea in a heartbeat. They use them around here to carry nitrogen tanks for fertilizing the farm fields. If you’ve ever been behind one of these rigs being pulled by a tractor, wobbling all over the road at fifteen miles an hour, you’ll never forget it. They appear to be constantly trying to steer themselves into a ditch no matter how straight the tractor is going.
  13. It’s hard to tell from the photos, but I’m pretty sure that’s a later engine in this car. There are no exposed cylinder jackets on the lower part of the motor as there should be on a 32. I also don’t see a handbrake lever next to the gearshift lever which probably means the transmission has also been changed. In that shot under the dash there appears to be a later handbrake lever like the one on my 48 Plymouth cobbled onto the side panel. Add in the previously mentioned rust, improper door sills, poor paint and shabby appearance and I’d stay away from this one unless you’re planning an extensive restoration. Way overpriced.
  14. Looks like a nice car. The color may hurt you a bit. These seem to be going in the $8000 range. If the work on the motor is documented, that will help you. The problem with these cars is the limited top speed, which relegates them to back roads and small town driving. Good luck with the sale.
  15. Getting ready to do the firewall pad on my 32 Dodge Brothers. May I ask where you got the jute and the fiber board? My pad is not as thick as yours and appears to have a single layer of jute. What did you find to be the best method to cut the jute to shape? How about the fiberboard. Both of your materials look to have very clean cuts.
  16. The Carioca, Now that’s a car I’d like to see someone build. I wonder if there are any other drawings of this proposed design.
  17. ‘I assume you mean corn head grease. What alternative do you recommend?
  18. As I said in the post, they were repaired by Jeff Holzmer. He welded in new metal and reshaped the openings to the correct size.
  19. When working on my drag link, I wasn't having much luck finding NOS parts other than threaded inserts and new internal springs. Then Curti on this site suggested I contact Jeff Holzmer in Woodbury, Minnesota. He replaced the pitman arm balls on several Auburns for Curti and came highly recommended. Since my pitman arm was very similar, if not identical to the Auburn arm, I thought I'd get in touch. He agreed to work on mine and also to repair my damaged drag link. I'm very happy with the work. Here are some before and after photos. The pitman arm before... And after. And the drag link before and after. The other end.
  20. You seem to be interested in originality, but changed the car to 12 volts? It looks like an older paint job in the first place, so I’m not sure why you think you’re owed a new paint job on the whole car. Maybe I’m being naive, but I can’t imagine taking a car to a shop and let them sit the car outside month after month. You said you took some pictures six month ago - did you not notice it being stored outside at that time? Did you occasionally stop by the shop to check progress and find it sitting outside? I think the shop owes you an explanation and a fix and repaint on the fender. I think you owe yourself a rethink on how you handle repairs to your car in the future.
  21. My engine rebuilder said it might need adjusting. Not sure why he thought so - I’m giving him a call Monday. I used a new temporary gauge, not the original, to test the oil pressure. I’ll try the original gauge and see what that reads. At least I have too much pressure rather than not enough.
  22. Is there a gap between the cover and the block? I don’t think mine is screwed all the way in. Any pictures would help.
  23. Starting and running the engine a few times and some minor problems have cropped up. The oil pressure is running 65 pounds, which I think is too high. Looks like I may have to adjust the pressure relief valve. I found a small oil leak at the bottom of the timing chain cover. I tightened the cover bolts and it seems to have stopped the leak. I certainly hope so, as the thought of having to replace the cover gasket is not something I want to consider. I also found a leak around the pressure relief valve cover - which is more of a screw on domed fitting in the side of the block. This will need some investigating. I’m not sure if there is a gasket involved or just the tightness of the unit being screwed tight into the block is supposed to be sufficient. If I have to adjust the pressure relief valve, I guess I’ll find out as that cover is how you access it.