• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by Taylormade

  1. I’m sure Bob’s stands by their work. I did the boiling water test when they first sent it back and it was dead on. Thanks, it’s a good tip and an easy way to test the gauge.
  2. Another example of the gaskets I cut with the C and C machine. This one was for the speedometer. My Rube Goldberg coil holder turned out great. It fits in the clamp behind the dash where the original coil was located. I drilled a hole for the wires to the ignition switch and slotted the sides for the clamp to hold the coil in. All the dash wiring is ready to go. As soon as I get firewall pad I can install the instrument cluster, the choke, throttle and Free Wheeling cables, the coil and the ignition switch and I'll be ready to start Daphne the way she was meant to be started.
  3. Finally got around to finishing up the instrument cluster. Bob's Speedometer rebuilt the water gauge, calibrated the fuel gauge and rebuilt the tank sending unit. Based on what was left of the old gaskets, I used my previously mentioned method to cut new ones. I can't stress how accurately these things are cut, especially the round holes for the screws/bolts. They fit like a glove (unless you're O.J. Simpson). Everything went together very easily and now it's ready to install in the dash. The new face on the water gauge is indistinguishable from the other originals. They are all the same shade, it just doesn't show in this photo for some reason.
  4. Make sure you have your brake shoes adjusted in as far as possible so they don’t hang up the drum. Put the puller on - with the axel nut loosely on, as gossip suggested - and pound the arm ends with a sledge hammer. Let it sit there for an hour or so, then bang on it again. Keep it on and continue, letting it sit in between. I had to leave mine on overnight. As I was working on something else in the garage, I heard what I thought was a gunshot. It was the brake drum letting go. It’s going to take patience, but it will finally let loose.
  5. I've complained about this before, but I have the distinct impression that the Chrysler engineer who designed the Floating Power transmission mounting setup ended up on the breadline once the DL models went into production. I had the unfortunate experience of removing the front U-joint this morning (for at least the fifth or sixth time) and it doesn't get any easier. As I said above, I neglected to put gaskets on the surface between the U-joint and the parking brake drum. The problem is the way the bolts that hold it on are positioned. As you can see in this shot of the entire drivetrain assembled, the u-joint is held on by six bolts that extend through the parking brake drum and are held on by lock washers and nuts. If you look closely you can see the edge of the metal shield near the forward part of the drum. There are two shields, top and bottom held on by two bolts each - and, at least, these bolts attach to threaded mounts. They are designed to prevent crud getting up inside the drum. So after getting a wrench up into a nearly inaccessible area and removing the bolts and the shields, you finally have access to the inside of the brake drum and the six captive nuts for the u-joint bolts. HOWEVER, it is nearly impossible to get any kind of wrench in there to unscrew the nuts. The only way I could find was to use a socket wrench with a u-joint adapter. Even then, there is only one area where the socket will fit and reach the nut, and the socket u-joint has to be used at a sharp angle to work. It's a real nightmare. Here it is with the u-joint finally off. Even worse is putting it back on. You have to reach back inside the drum with two fingers and carefully get the lock washer on the bolt end. It has to be done entirely by touch. Then, using the same two finger method, you have to try and get the nut in there and get it threaded on the bolt. I'm usually successful about twenty-five percent of the time - on a good day. I'm printing out the gaskets today and steeling myself for reassembly tomorrow. The only good news is I discovered I had actually installed gaskets on the u-joint covers, so I don't have to take the u-joints apart - just install the gasket between the u-joint and the mounting flange on the brake drum. Once this is done, the driveshaft goes back on and I can install the new floors.
  6. I was putting my driveshaft back in today and noticed some seepage around the edge of the front U-joint. I realized I hadn't put the gasket back in when I installed the u-joint. I also realized I don't have any gaskets - so I scanned the bottom plate of an extra u-joint base and made new gasket technical drawings that I can cut out using the method I described in an earlier post using the Cricut C and C machine. Here is the artwork. The bar at the top is exactly 5 inches so I can scale the drawing correctly in the Cricut software. Again, the advantage of this method is the gasket is perfectly flat after it's cut out, with no raised edges from punching holes and i get a perfect fit.
  7. Fossil did put a smiley emoji after his comments. It’s strictly an opinion, but I, too, have never cared for the distinctive lights on the fenders approach that Pierce Arrow so dearly loved. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.
  8. It seemed to be the "in" thing in the seventies, as you said. Brown fenders and trim, tan body, red wheels. I'm not sure where it came form or who started it. When I was restoring my 29 Plymouth in the seventies, many were appalled that I was going to paint it in the original colors - black fenders, blue body. Lots of folks urged me to paint it brown and tan or maroon and red. My current project, a 1932 Dodge Brothers DL sedan came form the factory black with pale yellow wire wheels. It's going back original, but my wife still wants to paint the body maroon. That was one of the original colors, but the trim on the body was not painted black or any other contrasting color, probably to save money at the depth of the depression. I'm not a fan of this approach and I'm glad mine was black back in 32. I've seen them with the trim painted, but it's not correct. It took me five seconds to find this incorrectly painted 32 on the web. Here is an original car with the actual paint scheme - black fenders, solid color body.
  9. PM me your information and I'll send it to you.
  10. I’m not sure the switch cares, but I would think that the Ignition terminal takes the power feed coming in from the ammeter. Then the other two terminals are the wire to the negative terminal on the coil and the other to the fuel gauge. So, when the switch is turned on, you get power to both the coil and fuel gauge. Basically like your car with the external coil. I guess they gave up the one piece coil/ignition switch arrangement after 32.
  11. Well, with a little persuasion, the tube fit into the dash mount perfectly. I was surprised at how little stress there seemed to be with the coil inserted in the other end of the tube. it doesn't weigh as much as I thought or stick out as far as I thought it would. I may drill a few holes in the tube as kieser31 suggested, but I don't want to weaken the tube to the point it fails. Just how hot do coils get? There doesn't seem to be any cooling setup to dissipate the heat, and I've also seen hotrodders put them inside billet mounts that I suspect would also hold in heat, fins or not. I've seen coils mounted on the top of the engine, which is definitely not the coolest place on the car. I guess if it starts to melt, I'll have my answer.
  12. I had the same concerns. The acrylic tube I got has a very high temperature rating. It's designed for high heat situations. I am a bit worried that it might hold in the heat from the coil and cause problems. Still have some concerns on that front.
  13. I've discussed this ignition switch before but I'm still not sure exactly how it works. I'm a complete idiot when it comes to wiring, so bear with me. The switch has two positions - on and off. You turn the key and there is no middle position, it just turns to the right and stops. On the back of the switch there are three terminals marked BAT, STA and IGN, which I assume are Battery, Starter and Ignition. When I turn the key on and test continuity, I get current flow between Ignition and Battery and between Ignition and Starter. I am assuming the Ignition post receives the current and the Battery and Starter distribute the current. What confuses me is there is also current flow between Battery and Starter without touching the Ignition post. With the key off there is no current flow between any posts. So, are the Battery and Starter posts connected and really serve no relevant purpose? Why not just have two terminals, a current feed into the Ignition and a single post to feed to the necessary devices on the dash? Would a single terminal somehow overload the switch or...? Just trying to figure out how to wire this up since I no longer have the integral coil/switch that originally came with the car.
  14. One of the irritating items that comes up when restoring early thirties Chrysler products is the use of the integral coil and ignition setup. Finding original coils for these cars is difficult, let alone finding one that works. They do make reproductions, but at several hundred bucks it was a little too much for my budget. I started talking about this several years ago on this thread, but I finally figured out a possible fix that is inexpensive and retains much of the original look - as long as you don't get too far under the dash! Most of the time, as on Daphne, when the original coil went out, they just bought a cheap coil and screwed the mount onto the firewall - inside or outside the car. Then the wiring was jury rigged and you kept on driving. I wanted to get the coil back up behind the ignition key where it belonged. The original clamp for the factory coil is still there in very good shape. Sorry these pictures are so bad - I had to use my phone to get up under there. Here is the bracket with the replacement ignition switch installed as it was when I got the car in 1965. There is not really enough of the bracket left with the switch installed to safely get the coil in there. Here is what I came up with... First, I bought a clear, heat resistant acrylic tube that has an inner diameter just slightly larger than my new coil and an outer diameter slightly smaller than the clamp opening. Here are the three pieces, the coil, the tube and the ignition switch. As you can see, the coil fits nicely inside the tube. I'll cut the tube to length and put a cutout along the side so it will clamp down on the coil. The ignition key also fits my sidemount locks, not sure how that came about, but it was like that when I bought the car so I'm not complaining. I don't think any additional support will be necessary - the dash clamp is pretty robust, but I can always run a strap up to the firewall if it looks too end heavy. We'll see how this Rube Goldberg device works as I implement it.
  15. dpcdfan, I did not receive a PM under your name. Try again, Gary, I don't know what happened.
  16. Is EDPM a brand name - or am I just showing my ignorance?
  17. This begs the question - why not come up with a protective coating that doesn't require an industrial strength cleaning to get it off? Does a sheet explaining the removal come with the tires when you purchase them?
  18. Buy them now. Just ask all the folks who put off ordering their interior fabric and kits from LeBaron-Bonney. If something is available and you need it - buy it before it’s too late.
  19. I may have posted this before, but this is the photo I always come back to when things get tough. Taken by Phil Kennedy in 1970. Note the mismatched color on the wire wheels, which were like that when I bought the car.
  20. In the always popular "been there, done that" category, I'm in the process of making/getting a new firewall pad and making rubber grommets for the firewall pass-thoroughs. I asked PO, and fellow Dodge Brothers member, Phil Kennedy to send me some firewall and under dash photos of his very original DL so I could get a good look at what things should look like. As always, Phil quickly replied with excellent shots. That's were the trouble started. I noticed with alarm that there was a brace under the dash from the firewall to below the instrument panel - a brace I didn't remember seeing during my meticulous parts organization this winter. Maybe it was still on the car. I went out to the garage and checked. No brace. Then I commenced on the arduous trek so may of us have traveled - the search for the elusive missing part. I swear I searched every shelf, box, storage container, dusty corner and rafter in the garage. I know I had seen that brace sometime in the last year or two, but it had now vanished into the vapor, never to be seen again. I desperation, I turned to John Kieser, knower of all cars, who had helped me find parts for Daphne in the past. A friend of his had the cowl of an old DL and had sent me some windshield parts several years ago. I contacted John who put me in touch with his friend, Alan. To my amazement, the cowl was still sitting behind his house - and the brace was still there. He took it off and sent it to me. This is what the old car world is all about - friendly people going out of their way to help someone in need. The brace arrived today. I'm sure as soon as I have it cleaned up and painted, my original brace will magically appear in a space I checked at least five times a few days ago, but that's the way it always goes. Thanks, Phil, John and Alan!
  21. Just think it through before you start cutting. I assume you'll wait until you get your new floors. That should give you a better idea of what needs to be cut out. You'll get through it. If I had a dollar for every new problem i had to deal with on my car, I'd be a rich man. I guess I'm lucky, my Dodge Brothers 32DL has wood floors that bolt in.
  22. Interesting. I'm going to be doing this in the near future and am curious about the best way to go about it. I've seen where they are tacked on and then the heads of the tacks are carefully pulled under the cloth but still hold the upholstery board beneath. I'm sure the upholstery experts can explain the process, but I've yet to try it. That obviously won't work in your case as you are not using cloth fabric.
  23. Are you going to glue in those back panels or use a different attachment method?