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Posts posted by Taylormade

  1. The floorboards on Daphne have turned out to be a much larger project than I originally expected.  I'm finally up to the last board - the one that but up against the lower toeboard and covers the area in front of the front seat.  The original was in the poorest shape of all the wood boards.  years of water leaking in through the two cowl vents and lots of wet and snow covered feet have caused warping and delamination.  This made it impossible get get accurate dimensions.  On top of that, this area has been worked on in the past and many of the original bolt holes are elongated or just plain missing.  It took several tries to get everything right, but I finally managed to get everything to fit.


    As you can see. the original floorboard was a mess.  The front edge on the right is cut at an angle to match the angle of the toeboards.  Since this area had disintegrated, I initially had no way to determine the correct angle to cut, but I managed to figure it out by making cardboard patterns.  You can still see remnants of the white asbestos sheeting that was nailed on to protect the wood from scorching from the exhaust and muffler heat.  I'm still trying to source something to replace it and keep the original look.




    This crazy piece has different angles on either side, a cutout for the gearshift, and a rounded recess to clear the emergency brake drum.  It was a lot of work to get thinks right.






    Finally!  The triangular shape to the left of the floorboard is the tool box.  It's covered by another piece of plywood and held in place by a metal clip.




    At this point I still need to drill the mounting holes and get it painted.


    I want to see if I can get Daphne on the road and around the block before the end of October.  My to-do list for the month -


    Finish the floors.

    Install rubber spacer washers on the rear spring hangers.  Steele didn't have any the correct size, so I bought a sheet of 3/16th rubber sheet and plan to make my own.

    Adjust the clutch - as soon as the pedal gets back from the machine shop with a new bushing.

    Bleed the brakes - installing some new aluminum/rubber crush washers on the fittings got some air into the system.

    Polish the dashboard - some overspray got on it during the painting, but the one area I did looks great after a 2000 grit sand and polish.

    Install the instrument cluster.  It's totally restored and back together.

    Hook up the dash wiring.

    Install the coil under the dash with the new mount I made.

    Install the gearshift.

    Install the steering column - all restored.

    Install the drag link.

    Install the steering wheel.


    At that point I should be able to drive the car (sitting on a box) and see how things are working mechanically.  That will give me until Spring to get all the problems worked out - if I'm lucky..


    • Like 1
  2. Unless this is a non US body, your 24 should have an all steel body.  Only the top framework and top bows were wood.  Is there enough of the original wood left for patterns?  I know of no kit, but the top should be fairly simple to make.

  3. Oh the humanity!  It was a nice cool day today, so I decided to tackle a job I had been dreading for some time - a bolt frozen in a captive nut.  I carefully drilled through the bolt - actually a threaded screw, so chewed up there was nothing to get a screwdriver on.  Things were going alright until the captive nut began spinning inside its captivity.  At that point I was doomed.  No amount of grinding, drilling or explosive devices could persuade what was left of the nut to come out of it’s little metal box.  This is one of the attachment points for the lower front floorboard.  I am resigned to using a nut on a threaded screw to hold it on.  It’s buried up under the firewall and will be virtually invisible - except for the first guy who gives the car the once over on the day I finish the restoration who will undoubtedly pipe up with, “Messed up that captive nut on the floorboard, did’ya?’  Since the body is on, I can’t cut the box off and reweld - not enough room and fresh paint, so 

    l’ll have to live with it.  The damn nut is still in there, but I can push it to the side enough to get a bolt through.  I figured I’d totally finish the floorboards today and start installing the window glass. Ha!

    • Like 3
  4. 8 hours ago, auburnseeker said:

    They list an assembly for $400.  I would need to verify car and truck are the same so my exhaust hooks up.  Not much is going to happen over the weekend so I'll see if anything local turns up,  or if my lead works out first. 


    Now see if a non car guy got this,  that couldn't wrench he would be in for a $1000 repair probably from a garage.  Shows you how even a good looking "restored " car can still end up problematic and cause someone just getting into the hobby to get discouraged in short order.  


    Figure that repair bill,  new brakes, tires, an exhaust manifold, fuel pump with labor to repair it all.   Boy you hand that to a guy that just bought a nice car who was expecting to be out cruising in it.  That doesn't include the multitude of other issues and parts I addressed. 

    Now you see why we might run down or atleast add an air of caution to some of the "not mine " cars for sale.


    ‘I know the manifold I bought from them fit my 48 Plymouth perfectly.  It was identical to the one I took off.  I would call them, they were very helpful and answered all my concerns.  But, as I said, not cheap.

  5. I bought a reconditioned manifold from Vintage Power Wagons about eight years ago.  It looked brand new when it arrived.  They specialize in military parts, but back then they had manifolds that fit my 48 Plymouth perfectly.  I just checked their catalog and they still have them under the motor parts section.  They have both intake and exhaust manifolds.  Might be worth taking a look, although the aren’t cheap.

    • Like 1
  6. If you go to my thread The Resurrection Of Daphne - A 1932 DL in the Dodge and Dodge Brothers section...


    Near the end of page 19 I detail the rebuilding of my transmission and freewheeling unit.  It's covered over several pages.  It should tell you everything you need to know about the process.  Let me know if you need anything else.


  7.   In your PM you mentioned that you were having trouble getting the freewheeling unit off.  I have a 1932 Dodge Brothers DL, so there may be differences in our transmissions, but maybe this will help.  My car was one of the first DLs built in December 1931 and has the first style of freewheeling clutch used, so it may be the same as yours.


    Here is my transmission and freewheeling unit out of the car and with the top of the tranny removed.  The top comes off by removing the six bolts and lifting the part straight up.  The gearshift and the emergency brake parts have obviously been removed. along with the driveshaft yoke that must be removed with a puller.




    I took off the the piece that holds the rear seal in the freewheeling unit, but it may not be necessary to remove the unit, it just gave me a chance to see what was under there.  it's held on by three bolts, one of which has already been removed in this shot.  You can also see two of the five studs that hold the freewheeling unit to the transmission.  The nuts have already been taken off.




    As I said above, the freewheeling unit on the back of the transmission is removed by taking the nuts off the five studs.  Some of my studs came out with the nuts attached, but it doesn't make any difference.


    Now the freewheeling unit is ready to be removed.  HOWEVER, DO NOT TRY TO PULL THE UNIT OUT UNTIL YOU REMOVE THE SPEEDOMETER GEAR!  This is very important, as pulling the freewheeling unit out with the gear in place will destroy the gear and jam the unit in place.  You can see the gear housing in the upper right of the picture above - the threaded cylinder.  The gear just pulls straight out.


    Now you can slide the freewheeling unit off the back of the transmission.  It may take a few taps and a bit of wiggling, but it will come off - as long as you removed the speedo gear.




    Notice the spring in this shot.  Watch out, it can go flying as you pull the unit off.




    This is what it looks like after the freewheeling unit is off.  The gear visible on the shaft simply slides off.  Make a note of it's orientation as you don't want to put it on backwards during reassembly.  The round casting with the arm behind the gear is attached to a shaft that is moved by a lever on the transmission itself.  The round opening is where the spring I mentioned above fits in.  The lever moves the gear forward and back to engage and disengage the freewheeling.  The spring  holds it in tension, always pushing it toward the transmission until the lever overrides it and pushes it away (if that makes any sense).  It's been awhile, but I'm pretty sure the casting just pulls off the shaft, but there my be a lock nut holding it on.




    With the gear and the casting off, you can remove the round plate on the back of the transmission and access the bearing,






    I hope this gets you started.  Let me know what else you need to see and I'll be glad to post it.  I took my transmission completely apart and have pictures of everything.










  8. I know it’s a thankless job, but to me the new layout is much harder to read.  Navigation may just seem more difficult as the appearance has changed and things have been moved around.  But my main complaint is the new graphic style.  It seems clumsy and hopelessly complex.  I much preferred the much easier to read “old” style.  Once you get into a thread, it’s fine, but getting there is just plain ugly.  Just my two cents and probably worth half that.

  9. In the one step forward, two steps back category, I discovered a small problem with my pedal assembly yesterday.  As I got ready to bleed the brakes in anticipation of driving Daphne around the block for the first time later this month, I noticed the brake pedal was a bit wobbly on its shaft.  I seem to recall sometime in the distant past totally ignoring this when I first restored the unit.  maybe it didn't seem so bad back then, but it's too bad to allow to go unchecked.  So, off came the unit.  The good news is that it's only held on by four bolts, and even with the body now on, I can access those bolts and slip the unit out after disconnecting the master cylinder plunger.  Check out the rust that has developed.  This will be a good chance to clean this up.  It's amazing that to the naked eye there seems to be little rust showing, but when the camera flash hits it - rust city.




    This assembly has more arms and gizmos on it than anything I've ever seen.  It's all for the clutch mechanism, and I'm sure the engineers had a reason for it, but it's beyond my pay grade.




    At any rate, disassembly went quickly.  Now I just have to take the brake pedal and shaft down to the machine shop and get a new bushing installed.  Luckily, the shaft is in good shape.




    Lesson learned - do it right the first time.





    • Like 3
  10. Considering you’re paying for patterns to make an entirely new boat, I’m not too sure about the price - especially since the original motor is long gone.  I find it strange that Dodge used Lycoming Motors when they had a dependable six of their own that they could use.  Maybe it was too heavy for the boat.

    • Like 1
  11. Is there a way to make the posts larger, the way they used to be - filling the page from left to right.  The new look seems to feature small boxes crammed over to the left side of the page.  Photos are tiny and the type is impossibly small.  Is there a setting to turn posts to full page?

    • Like 2
  12. For some reason I lost track of this thread.  I began posting questions like this on my restoration thread and I must have forgotten to return here and reveal the final outcome.  It turned out my drums were still within specifications.  I had a local shop do a real skim turning, taking off just enough to get rid of the slight ridge that had formed.  The brakes are now rebuilt and functioning.

    • Like 2
  13. Installed the felt padding on the floorboards.  The marine plywood is really tough.  I bent numerous tacks and finally had to drill a shallow pilot hole to get the tacks started.  Then I could drive them home.  The old floorboards had enough of the felt still attached to give me the necessary pattern.  Kind of difficult to photograph black felt on black wood, but you get the idea from these shots.






    When I put the boards back in the car I could not believe how much the felt softened the interior noise and made the boards snug down into place.




    Once the carpet with jute padding is installed, it should be pretty quiet in the back seat.

    • Like 3
  14. I just did a deflection test.  I put 150 pounds of weights on the middle of the floorboards and they deflected 1/4 of an inch.  I performed the same test on the old floorboard (same section) that was in the best shape.  It also deflected 1/4 of an inch.  So, although mine have the grain going the wrong way, they appear to have about the same strength.  Maybe the seven layers and the waterproof glue gave me a bit of an edge over standard plywood.  Given these rather crude tests, I think I am okay to go with what I have.

    • Like 1
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