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Posts posted by Taylormade

  1. Hard to say until you actually see it in person.  I think the biggest problem is the difference in color and texture on various parts of the car.  The doors and lower fenders look like they might even polish up a bit, but the crusty stuff on the hood is a problem.  I guess you’ll have to decide what you can live with.  She was just down the road from me in Illinois and I’m sorry to see her go, but I’m glad she found a new home.  Enjoy!

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  2. Does anyone have a source for felt seals that can be bought individually?  Looking for a seal that fits the driveshaft on a 32 Dodge Brothers DL.  Everyone I can find on the net is either a manufacturer or a company in China.  I found a few that are the wrong size, but the seller didn't seem to offer other choices.  it seems they still make them, but I can't find where to buy them.  Any help appreciated.

  3. Taking a poll.  I’m ready to put the gaskets on the u-joints and put the drivetrain together.  The gaskets are 3/64 of an inch thick and rather soft and crushable.  They are there to contain the grease in the u-joint, which is thick, but can weep fairly thin liquid if left standing for a period of time.  Do I need to apply  gasket cement to the gaskets, or do I just put them on dry?  The cement always seems to make a total mess no matter how carefully I try to apply it, but safety is probably the best policy.  What do you think?

  4. Sometimes you get lucky, but what happened today was downright ridiculous.  I went to the local parts store, where we are still welcome as long as we wear a mask, and bought some gasket material.  I couldn't find anything that was quite as thin as I wanted, so I settled for something a little thicker - 3/64th of an inch.  More about that later.  Well, the sun was out and I've been inside for the last two weeks, so I decided to take a short ride out in the country and get some fresh air.  We live in a tiny town in Central Illinois, so it takes about four minutes to get into the woods and cornfields.  I took a narrow country road I'd never noticed before and was cruising along when I went over a rickety old bridge spanning a little creek.  Out of the corner of my eye I spotted a rusty something or other buried in the creek bed.   It appeared to be automotive.   I pulled over and walked back to see what was up.  Sure enough there was the battered cowl of an early thirties car down there.  i started to go back and get my phone so I could take a picture of it and realized I'd left it at home.  i wasn't happy about that, but I went back and half walked, half slide down the creek bank to the wreckage.  It turned out to be what was left of a Chrysler, barely identifiable by the firewall tag.  There wasn't much left, the bottom having been submerged for years and totally rusted away.  Nothing was salvageable - or so I thought.  Then I took a closer look at the firewall and noticed something familiar poking through from inside.  It was the ends of the firewall clips I had been searching for - these things...




    I couldn't believe it!  How they had survived all this time is beyond me.  I got the cowl turned over and managed to get six of the little buggers out, more than I needed.  I'm going to go back and get a picture of the cowl when I get a chance - it still bugs me that I forgot my phone.  Here are the little beauties - lots of surface rust, but they are still solid and perfectly usable once I clean them up.




    On a more mundane note, I was curious to see if my C and C machine would cut clean gaskets from the thicker material I brought home.  No problem.



    • Like 5

  5. Another example of the gaskets I cut with the C and C machine.  This one was for the speedometer.




    My Rube Goldberg coil holder turned out great.  It fits in the clamp behind the dash where the original coil was located.  I drilled a hole for the wires to the ignition switch and slotted the sides for the clamp to hold the coil in.






    All the dash wiring is ready to go.  As soon as I get firewall pad I can install the instrument cluster, the choke, throttle and Free Wheeling cables, the coil and the ignition switch and I'll be ready to start Daphne the way she was meant to be started.



  6. Finally got around to finishing up the instrument cluster.  Bob's Speedometer rebuilt the water gauge, calibrated the fuel gauge and rebuilt the tank sending unit.








    Based on what was left of the old gaskets, I used my previously mentioned method to cut new ones.  I can't stress how accurately these things are cut, especially the round holes for the screws/bolts.




    They fit like a glove (unless you're O.J. Simpson).




    Everything went together very easily and now it's ready to install in the dash.  The new face on the water gauge is indistinguishable from the other originals.  They are all the same shade, it just doesn't show in this photo for some reason.










  7. Make sure you have your brake shoes adjusted in as far as possible so they don’t hang up the drum.  Put the puller on - with the axel nut loosely on, as gossip suggested - and pound the arm ends with a sledge hammer.  Let it sit there for an hour or so, then bang on it again.  Keep it on and continue, letting it sit in between.  I had to leave mine on overnight.  As I was working on something else in the garage, I heard what I thought was a gunshot.  It was the brake drum letting go.  It’s going to take patience, but it will finally let loose.

  8.  I've complained about this before, but I have the distinct impression that the Chrysler engineer who designed the Floating Power transmission mounting setup ended up on the breadline once the DL models went into production.  I had the unfortunate experience of removing the front U-joint this morning (for at least the fifth or sixth time) and it doesn't get any easier.  As I said above, I neglected to put gaskets on the surface between the U-joint and the parking brake drum.  The problem is the way the bolts that hold it on are positioned.


    As you can see in this shot of the entire drivetrain assembled, the u-joint is held on by six bolts that extend through the parking brake drum and are held on by lock washers and nuts.  If you look closely you can see the edge of the metal shield near the forward part of the drum.  There are two shields, top and bottom held on by two bolts each - and, at least, these bolts attach to threaded mounts.  They are designed to prevent crud getting up inside the drum.  So after getting a wrench up into a nearly inaccessible area and removing the bolts and the shields, you finally have access to the inside of the brake drum and the six captive nuts for the u-joint bolts.  HOWEVER, it is nearly impossible to get any kind of wrench in there to unscrew the nuts.  The only way I could find was to use a socket wrench with a u-joint adapter.  Even then, there is only one area where the socket will fit and reach the nut, and the socket u-joint has to be used at a sharp angle to work.  It's a real nightmare.




    Here it is with the u-joint finally off.




    Even worse is putting it back on.  You have to reach back inside the drum with two fingers and carefully get the lock washer on the bolt end.  It has to be done entirely by touch.  Then, using the same two finger method, you have to try and get the nut in there and get it threaded on the bolt.  I'm usually successful about twenty-five percent of the time - on a good day.  I'm printing out the gaskets today and steeling myself for reassembly tomorrow.  The only good news is I discovered I had actually installed gaskets on the u-joint covers, so I don't have to take the u-joints apart - just install the gasket between the u-joint and the mounting flange on the brake drum.  Once this is done, the driveshaft goes back on and I can install the new floors.

  9. I was putting my driveshaft back in today and noticed some seepage around the edge of the front U-joint.  I realized I hadn't put the gasket back in when I installed the u-joint.  I also realized I don't have any gaskets - so I scanned the bottom plate of an extra u-joint base and made new gasket technical drawings that I can cut out using the method I described in an earlier post using the Cricut C and C machine.  Here is the artwork.  The bar at the top is exactly 5 inches so I can scale the drawing correctly in the Cricut software.  Again, the advantage of this method is the gasket is perfectly flat after it's cut out, with no raised edges from punching holes and i get a perfect fit.



    • Like 2

  10. 16 hours ago, Fossil said:

    I really liked the looks of that car until getting to the headlights. 😝 How could anyone do that to a beautiful automobile.


    Fossil did put a smiley emoji after his comments.  It’s strictly an opinion, but I, too, have never cared for the distinctive lights on the fenders approach that Pierce Arrow so dearly loved.  Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

    • Like 1

  11. It seemed to be the "in" thing in the seventies, as you said.  Brown fenders and trim, tan body, red wheels.  I'm not sure where it came form or who started it.  When I was restoring my 29 Plymouth in the seventies, many were appalled that I was going to paint it in the original colors - black fenders, blue body.  Lots of folks urged me to paint it brown and tan or maroon and red.  My current project, a 1932 Dodge Brothers DL sedan came form the factory black with pale yellow wire wheels.  It's going back original, but my wife still wants to paint the body maroon.  That was one of the original colors, but the trim on the body was not painted black or any other contrasting color, probably to save money at the depth of the depression.  I'm not a fan of this approach and I'm glad mine was black back in 32.  I've seen them with the trim painted, but it's not correct.


    It took me five seconds to find this incorrectly painted 32 on the web.




    Here is an original car with the actual paint scheme - black fenders, solid color body.




    • Like 1

  12. I’m not sure the switch cares, but I would think that the Ignition terminal takes the power feed coming in from the ammeter.  Then the other two terminals are the wire to the negative terminal on the coil and the other to the fuel gauge.  So, when the switch is turned on, you get power to both the coil and fuel gauge.  Basically like your car with the external coil.  I guess they gave up the one piece coil/ignition switch arrangement after 32.

  13. Well, with a little persuasion, the tube fit into the dash mount perfectly. I was surprised at how little stress there seemed to be with the coil inserted in the other end of the tube.  it doesn't weigh as much as I thought or stick out as far as I thought it would.  I may drill a few holes in the tube as kieser31 suggested, but I don't want to weaken the tube to the point it fails.  Just how hot do coils get?  There doesn't seem to be any cooling setup to dissipate the heat, and I've also seen hotrodders put them inside billet mounts that I suspect would also hold in heat, fins or not.  I've seen coils mounted on the top of the engine, which is definitely not the coolest place on the car.  I guess if it starts to melt, I'll have my answer.



    • Like 1

  14. 8 minutes ago, JACK M said:

    Coils can run pretty hot.

    This might result in a softening (or worse) of the clear tube.

    Maybe a PVC water pipe could handle the heat better, after all it should handle hot water. (and would be stiffer)

    I would keep a REAL close eye on this when you get it running.

    The idea is genius however.

    I hope it works.

    I had the same concerns.  The acrylic tube I got has a very high temperature rating.  It's designed for high heat situations.  I am a bit worried that it might hold in the heat from the coil and cause problems.  Still have some concerns on that front.

    • Like 1