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Taylormade

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Posts posted by Taylormade

  1. Hard to tell without seeing the interior.  If it’s nice, maybe eight to ten on the coast.  Five to eight in the middle of the country - we’re cheap and have to consider shipping costs.  You’ll have to find the right buyer, these hit forty-five with a tailwind and are more around the town, get ice cream and parade cars.  Prewar cars seem to have taken a hit lately, especially run of the mill twenties models - and it’s not an open car.  Don’t get me wrong, I’m in the Dodge Brothers Club and love the car, but I have to be realistic.  I hope you’ll find someone to love it.

    • Like 1
  2. A bit of nostalgia gone forever.  Previous owner Phil Kennedy put these Syracuse decals on after he bought Daphne from me.  They've been on the car over fifty years and I agonized over leaving them on or...  I finally decided to take them off as they are not period correct.  After I did it, I felt like a criminal that had vandalized an ancient relic.  Sorry Syracuse and Phil.

     

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    • Haha 1
  3. In theory it seems like that would work.  I found the cork to be easy to work with and the perfect size.  Since it was what was originally used, I went with it.  My only reservation would be that the slot for the cork is square with right angle sides.  I’d be afraid that the rubber o ring might slip out of the slot given that it’s round and the slot is square.

  4. Yes, that's a shot of my u-joint.  I took mine apart, and I'm glad I did as one of my bearings was shot.  You have to pry the spring off and pop it back.  I obviously had to remove the zerk fitting to get mine off.  The the dome will slide off.  I was lucky, the bad bearing was in the front u-joint and I had a spare on another transmission.  The rear u-joint is attached to the driveshaft (welded on) and I'm not sure how you would handle that.  On the rear u-joint you have to slide the spring and the dome all the way down the driveshaft to get hem completely off.  The second larger dome is held on by the mounting blots and two smaller bolts.  You can see one of the smaller bolts at the one o'clock position in this photo.

     

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    Once you get both dome pieces off, this is what you will find.

     

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    After I cleaned it up and checked the bearing, I discovered the cork gasket on the smaller dome was shot.  It came out in pieces, hard and dried out.

     

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    I found some cork sheet of the correct thickness on EBay and cut strips to the proper length and installed them in the slot in the dome.

     

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    I then filled the large inner dome with lube and bolted it one after making a new gasket.  I lubed the cork gasket on the small dome, slipped it on and installed the spring.

     

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    Since everything inside looked okay I went with the original setup.  I doubt that I could have found parts to repair anything broken.  As much as i would have hated to do it, I probably would have had a new driveshaft made with modern joints.

     

    In your case, I would install a zerk and pump the lube in - a few tablespoons is not enough.  And I would bet your cork gasket/seal is rock hard and not doing its job.

    • Like 1
  5. I tried everything under the sun and never got this area totally leak free.  Several pages on my Daphne restoration thread dealing with this problem and the frustration involved.  Now it seeps slightly, but once I’m driving around - who knows?  Aside from machining groves in the case to take o-rings, I couldn’t figure any other way to stop leaks.  I took my tranny out three times trying to fix it.

    • Like 1
  6. 5 hours ago, Ian_Greenlaw said:

    Richbad,

    My daughter just bought one of these....Its called a CRICUT....she can cut out all different types of things on it.

    I'll see if she can do cork ones.....might be an opportunity for her !

    They work great for gaskets.  I posted the process on my restoration thread.  The only problem you might have with cork is getting it off the sticky pad without damaging it.

    • Like 1
  7. The shock rebuild starts on page 14 and finishes on page 15.  Sometimes, depending on the way you have your settings, your page numbers may not match up with mine.  Just in case, the posts were posted starting on January 24, 2015, so you can check the date posted to find them.  Let me know if you need any other information.  The rear shocks a slightly larger, but come apart and go together in exactly the same way as the fronts.

  8. Just a quick hint - if you need to put the windows back in your car, be sure to do it before you reach the age of 60.  I waited until I was 74 and am paying the price.  Aside from the fact that I cannot bend over more than 5 degrees after a day in the garage, everything is going fine.  Getting the window lever into the slots in the glass channel is one of the most frustrating jobs I have ever attempted - especially the front windows.  I would have loved to meet the guy at the factory that did this job and ask him how the heck he accomplished it on a moving assembly line.

    • Like 2
  9. Not sure if my 32 Dodge Brothers has the same setup, but mine has two rollers on the crank mechanism that slide onto a channel along the bottom of the window.  There are two open slots in the channel that have to be lined up with the roller before they can be pulled free.  As I remember - it’s been five years - they were a real pain to get off.  I’m about to put mine back on and I’m not looking forward to it!

  10. I'm also putting in the door latch activators and the window cranks inside the doors.  You have to install both before you put the glass back in.  It's a bit tricky fishing them through the holes in the doors, but I managed to get them in place without much of a problem.

     

    Window crank in place.

     

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    Door latch mechanism installed.

     

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    I have two good door latch mechanisms - both on the drivers side, and two that need to be rebuilt.

     

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    This is the driver front door mechanism.  It obviously still needs cleaning.

     

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    The back quarter windows are a breeze.  Here is the glass installed with the window channels in, but not yet secured.

     

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    Inside the body, the area around the glass is completely open.  Once the channels are secured, you simply snap the crank lever in place and bolt the crank plate in place.  Much easier than fishing down inside the body to get things in place.

     

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    This weekend's project is to rebuild the two door latch mechanisms and get them installed.  Then, all the glass will be ready to go back in.

     

     

     

    • Like 2
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  11. Installing the window weatherstripping today.  I have been trying to figure out a way to seal the opening between the outside of the window glass and the body.  From all I can discover, there never was a seal/wiper in there.  I didn't want to redesign the car, but I wanted a little protection from water and debris simply falling through the opening and landing in the bottom of the door.  There are several holes in the bottom of the door that the factor apparently thought would solve the problem.  My solution isn't perfect, but it will offer some protection - I hope.

     

    This is the rear door glass, ready to go.

     

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    I found this rubber extrusion from Metro Molded Parts.

     

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    I had originally planned to attach it to the body on the inside of the window frame, but realized attaching it to the base of the glass would make more sense.  I used weatherstripping adhesive to secure it in place.

     

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    This stuff, if properly applied, really holds well.  I applied it to both surfaces - the window base and the extruded rubber.

     

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    Then the most important part of the process - you have to let it dry until it's tacky, much like contact cement.  Once it had become very tacky, I placed the rubber on the window base.  You only get once chance at this as it sticks immediately and doesn't want to move.

     

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    Then I clamped it down.  I let it dry overnight and it's ready to go the next day.

     

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  12. Putting the windows in.  Amazing how much you forget after five years.  Just fitting things up and going through the procedure in my mind and I discovered you have to put the door handle mechanism in before you install the window,  The window channel passes through the door handle mechanism.  Put the channel and window in first and there's no way to install the door mechanism.  I'm glad I thought it through before I did my usual charge ahead with no forethought.  I'd be out in the garage removing the freshly installed windows if I had.  The window channels fit nicely.  I have the rearmost passenger small sedan window installed, and that was easy as the mechanism is a plate that bolts in place.  No fishing down inside the body to try and snap the end of the riser in place.  I'll post some pictures tomorrow as I install the driver's side rear window.

     

    I also got a set of the window plates from knobless.  They are very nicely made and fit perfectly.  I'll post some pix when I get to that restoration.

  13. I got mine from Restoration Specialties and Supply Company.  Page 113 in their catalog- they have a downloadable PFD catalog on their site.  Look under top dressing.  They had the padding when I purchased mine, but it’s now listed as out of stock.  The wood you’re going to have to make yourself or find a local woodworker to do it for you.  I hope there is enough original wood left for patterns.  At least it’s a coupe - much easier than a sedan.

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