Taylormade

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Posts posted by Taylormade


  1. Also be sure the surface area on the block where the plugs fit is clean and smooth.  I used a power washer to clean out my block, inserting the nozzle in the various plug openings and blasting away.  An amazing amount of crud washed out.  I had the block on an engine stand and rotated it during the clean out.


  2. Towing this car anywhere would be a waste of time and money.  Way too much work - finding parts, metal restoration...  sell it for parts or to someone who really wants a challenge (good luck with that).  No title, bad rust, not running - you’ve hit the trifecta.

    • Like 2

  3. It’s really impossible to answer your question until we can see some photos and get a handle on the condition of the car.  It could be anything from a solid original that you could get running with minimum effort and then enjoy as a preservation car, to a total rust bucket that would better serve as a parts car.  If you have a convertible or coupe, it may be worth restoring, but a sedan is not really worth that much.  In most cases you will never get back the cost of a quality restoration when it comes time to sell.

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  4. The spring for my freewheeling unit is inside the freewheeling case itself.  The cable is pull/push.  I’m not an overdrive expert.  Weren’t they manually operated until 38 or 39 when they went to an electrically controlled unit?


  5. 14 hours ago, thehandleman said:

    Hi TAYLOR,   

          YOU HAVE A 1928 PLYMOUTH ORIGINAL SALESMAN BOOK ? MY FATHER OWNED AT LEAST 7 OF THE 28-32 PLYMOUTHS OVER HIS LIFE, I OWN A 1929 AND THE ONLY LEATHER/VINYL I EVER SEEN WAS IN OPEN CARS, NOT THE SEDAN'S I WOULD WONDER IF YOU COULD POST A PICTURE OF THAT PAGE SAYING THE 1928-29 HAD LEATHER AS OPTION IN THE SEDAN, SINCE THE 28 ALSO WAS ONLY PRODUCED FOR 3 MONTHS IN 28.JUST CURIOUS

    THANKS

    NICE LOOKING CAR

     

    The book is buried in a box out in the garage, put away when I sold my 1929 Model U ten years ago.  I will try to find it, but I’m not making any promises.  I went through the options when I was restoring the car and remember you could have the stock black fenders painted body color for, I believe, five bucks.  I think they also had an option to have the frame and undercarriage painted body color.  I do remember being amazed at the number of options offered by the factory for a low priced car..


  6. Man, I just noticed my thread had slipped back to page five.  I’ve been neglecting Daphne mainly due to continuing problems with my knee, but I need to get back to work on her as soon as possible.  I didn’t want folks who had been patiently following my progress to think I had given up.  I am determined to drive her around the block this summer, no matter what.

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  7. The only real repair needed on my units, once I had them cleaned up, was to replace the cork seal on the cup.  My seal was worn out, brittle and dry.

     

    IMG_6793.thumb.jpg.d4d28769bcce3bf4566ed30fc052ff5c.jpg

     

    I cut a strip of new cork from a sheet I had and inserted it in the lip of the cup.

     

    IMG_6794.thumb.jpg.e9d3cf32e807335fc09b835b877339a5.jpg

     

    Then I gave everything inside a good lube, slid the ball back on, slid the newly freshened cup back on and snapped the spring back in place.

     

    IMG_6796.thumb.jpg.c4fdcb6ca8624bfb678b69f363e0e10a.jpg

     

    And here is the unit back on the car.

     

    IMG_7094.thumb.jpg.d73520075d622563443d0e8d51a3b3fd.jpg

     

    As far as i can see, the only way to get lubricant in the joints is to take them apart - or at least take the spring and cup off to gain access to the inner workings.  I would certainly take them apart and clean everything and re-lube.

     

    I hope this helped.

     

     

    • Thanks 2

  8. Okay here are what I have on my 1932 Dodge Brothers DL sedan, made in January of 1931.

     

    The joints as I found them on the car during disassembly.  At the rear of the driveshaft...

     

    IMG_2958.thumb.jpg.593bdb85b377b4bc0b507a9e026424e9.jpg

     

    No problem getting those bolts out as they are easily accessible.  But, at the transmission...

     

    199292902_IMG_3329-Copy.thumb.jpg.6563eced5c2fafbe4719223eaf1a6351.jpg

     

    A real pain!  To get to the nuts, you have to get in behind the parking brake drum after removing a two dirt shield panels.  Even then, getting a socket on those nuts is a nightmare.  I had to use a socket extension with a U-joint fixture to get them off.

    Anyway, In both shots you can see the spring that holds the cup with the Spicer logo in place.  This shot isn't the greatest angle, but you get a better look at the spring now that it's cleaned up.  The spring is held in place by a lip on the shaft.  To get things apart, you have to pry the spring off the lip.  It's a bit of a chore, but with a little patience you can get it off.  I pried up one end and then worked it off the lip. 

     

    IMG_3543.thumb.jpg.543f4283005103cbe3108da8080c9b63.jpg

     

    There are two outer pieces to the unit,  a large half ball and the cup that rides on the ball.  Once you have the spring off, the cup will slide back off the shaft.  Then the ball will also slide off as long as all the attachment bolts are out of the unit.  At this point, you end up with this...

     

    IMG_6775.thumb.jpg.d37703b8b807df8f607c9dd88d68b120.jpg

     

    You can see the indented area on the shaft that held the spring in place.  Disassembly is pretty easy on the front U-joint, but the rear joint is part of the driveshaft, so you have to slide the ball and cup down the entire driveshaft to get them off,  I guess if this joint ever goes, you were expected to by a new driveshaft!

     

    The pictured bearing was bad on my forward joint, but I was lucky to have a good spare.

     

    IMG_6776.thumb.jpg.7869032ae3081de2d562de257ba2375e.jpg

     

     


  9. Matt, I agree your roadster is a great looking car.  I have always liked early thirties Chrysler Corporation styling - with the possible exception of the thin radiator shells at the turn of the decade.  Even my pedestrian 32 Dodge Brothers DL sedan draws appreciative comments, and I’m often asked how much I chopped the top.  Most folks are amazed when they discover it’s dead stock.  It’s also hard to beat the front styling on a 32 DeSoto.  Two things are preventing me from rushing to Cleveland to buy your roadster - the lack of having seventy-five large readily availible, and the color.  I just can’t get past those two-tone brown paint jobs that were so popular a few decades ago.  Just a personal opinion, not a dig at the car.


  10. I have tried to explain the Floating Power system to Sactownog several times in the past.  I must be doing a bad job, as it doesn’t seem to be getting through.  This system makes it difficult to install a different transmission due to the design of the motor/transmission mounts.  The car already has a non-original, later engine, so originality isn’t an issue.  If you get by the mounting problem, you may find the the design of the X-frame may not give you enough room for the much longer overdrive unit.  Anyway you cut it, this isn’t a drop in swap.  You will have to remove the motor and trans, design and fabricate new mounts and supports, and probably have to cut on the frame.  If you current;y are confused as to the difference between Floating Power and freewheeling, you need to do more research before taking on this project.  It would be easier and less work to get a modern overdrive unit designed to work between the trans and the differential.   They have been discussed many times on these forums.

    • Like 1