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Everything posted by Taylormade

  1. Hot Rodders love this car. It appears to have a straight body under the surface rust. It will be interesting to see if the car really sold, or if it shows up,on eBay in a week or so, which often happens. Hot rodders are paying more than this for an original 32 Ford roadster body, even though steel repo bodies are available.
  2. Before the last post I tightened the bolts that hold the plate and timing cover in place - the ones I could get to. Checking two hours later, it seems to have helped. Not sure if the leak is completely stopped, but it's definitely slowed. A check after 24 hours should confirm if the problem is solved. I'm currently working on the firewall insulation pad found on the inside of the firewall in the passenger compartment. It's in pretty bad shape, and has come apart, the front "decorative" piece coming unglued from the pad. I was surprised to find not just the expected jute padding, but a molded piece between the jute and the cover. I suspect this molded piece is loaded with asbestos, as this was the material of choice for heat and fire protection back in the day. It will be carefully disposed of. Here is a shot of the pad and cover, both facing into the interior. You can see the molded section on top of the jute. Here's a close shot of the jute and the molded piece. I was thinking of buying this to replace the pad. My only concern is that without the molded piece for support, would this pad tend to sag or distort over time? The two removable front floorboards also have what I suspect is a similar material attached to the board, facing the motor. Again, this must be for heat protection - and probably contains asbestos. It's disintegrating, and the fibers can get into the air. I found this material that seems to be about the same consistency and is the right thickness, but I worry about its ability to handle heat from the motor. I don't want to use something that might be flammable, and this may be. Then there is this stuff that has the right properties and thickness if i use two layers, but it will hardly look original with the reflective, shiny outer surface. Always something to try and figure out. Someone, somewhere must have solved this problem at some point. Maybe just paint the surface with hi-heat flat black and go with that.
  3. Another annoying problem has reared its ugly head. I noticed a slight engine oil leak this morning. I filled the car with oil several months ago and have been monitoring for any leaking ever since. Of course this was before I started the engine for the first time. After the motor ran with full oil pressure, I discovered this tiny leak - in the worst possible place on my car. The Floating Power feature on my DL has the front of the motor mounted on a single rubber mount placed on the top of a stamped steel cradle that straddles the frame. You can see it in the picture below. The rubber pad is just under the waterpump, with the cradle straddling the frame. The cradle has a hole in the center so you can take it off over the front pulley, but this can only be done with the motor out of the car or the pulley off. The front of the engine has a plate and the timing cover attached, held on by some common bolts and some exclusive to the plate. Here you can see both the plate and the cover during engine disassembly. This is what it looks like with everything in place and not covered by the cradle. Obviously, once I got the motor started and running, oil was forced under pressure into the timing cover for the first time. That's when the leak became apparent. The very tiny leak is coming from right here on the bottom of the motor. it's coming from the area between the plate and the motor, not from between the timing cover and the plate. With the motor in the car and the mounting cradle blocking access, it's very hard, almost impossible, to get up under there and tighten anything. I did manage to get a wrench on the two lower bolts that hold the cover and plate in place. I could tighten them slightly, but there still seemed to be seepage after I cleaned everything off. Needless to say, if this doesn't solve the problem, I'm in trouble. The only way to fix this seems to be a long a tedious road. I'd have to remove the radiator and all hoses, support the front of the engine on a hoist, pull the front pulley, remove the cradle, remove the cover and plate, get new gaskets, clean everything and put it all back together. I'm strongly considering just leaving it alone and resigning myself to cleaning off the engine pan after each trip. The leak is so small, if I can get it clean enough, maybe just a tiny bit of silicon rubber (ugh!) in the crack would fix things. Daphne is fighting me at every turn, no doubt as revenge for leaving her all those years ago. Hell hath no fury like a woman scorned.
  4. This rebuilder was respected by whom? I hope you are steering fellow car enthusiasts away from this shop.
  5. This car was listed as sold for $3152.00 on August 26th. Now it’s back on eBay with top bid at $565.00. Maybe the first winner showed up, discovered the true condition of the car, fainted, and then drove home with an empty trailer. Or maybe his wife found out and he just never showed. I have to admit, it’s an interesting car, and one that can conjure up some pleasant dreams. But after spending five years restoring my 32 DB, which was a complete car in fairly decent condition, tackling this project would be more than I could handle. I do hope someone can save it, it’s a cool car.
  6. My wheels looked worse than yours - half had been painted black - and the original color had darkened due to weathering and rust. I had all six wheels sandblasted and then took them to a wire wheel specialist to have the spokes tightened and the wheels trued.
  7. Gloss and sunflower yellow (a creamy yellow) as original. I don’t think gray would look good - just my opinion. Are you taking the tires off? If so, be sure to clean the inner rims and make sure they are rust free and as smooth as possible.
  8. Well, I finally got Daphne started. No real problems, she cranked for awhile but then took off. There was some obnoxious noise from the fan or waterpump area that I think was a loose fan belt - you can see my worried and annoyed look on the video. The first few tries nothing happened, and I thought she might not be getting a spark. I loosened one of the plug leads and held it close and got a spark. Then the motor wanted to start. I snapped the plug wire back on and she started right up. Not sure why that seemed to be the "spark" that got her going. On a later try, I had to do the same thing. My coil wires are all rather long at the moment, so maybe she isn't getting enough juice at startup. There might be some lifter noise, see what you think. The carb seemed to work fine and I got 50 pounds of oil pressure. No leaks so far. I am pretty happy with this, as I didn't have to adjust the distributor at all and actually had all the plug wires in the correct sequence.. Lots of smoke as I had Marvel Mystery Oil in the cylinders. I noticed a bit of bubbling around the top of the manifold, but a quick tightening of the manifold bolts got rid of that. The second shot has her running pretty well. Still not sure if I'm getting too much lifter noise or if that's normal. This really took a lot of stress off the restoration. A little work with the motor and I can put the hood on and start working on the interior.
  9. They look like the two on my DL, but the length may be different. I’ll check tomorrow.
  10. Thanks. Adjusted the carb this afternoon. Plans are to start the car tomorrow evening when my granddaughter gets out of basketball practice.
  11. Doing a few small jobs today. I cleaned off the speedometer cable (it's a long one!) and was pleasantly surprised to find everything intact, still very flexible, and with both ends and fittings in good shape. The cable pulls out of the housing easily. and I plan to clean it and re-lube the housing. Any suggestions on the best way to do this? The housing was caked with 80 years of dirt and oil, but it cleaned up nicely. Ends and fittings all good. Then I fabricated a new carb linkage, as my new BB-1 updraft is different than my old carb setup. Next, I went through my list in preparation of starting the engine for the first time. Gapped plugs to .028. Made sure the crankcase is full of new oil with a bottle of zinc additive for startup. Radiator full - no leaks from hoses or radiator a week after filling. Points gap set. Plug wires checked for position on distributor cap and plugs. Valve covers tightened, new cork gaskets. New coil (hopefully good) with positive wire to distributor and negative wire to negative terminal of battery (positive ground system). Temporary oil pressure gauge and temperature gauge installed. Remote gravity fed fuel tank filled with non-ethanol gas. Fire extinguisher. Fresh six volt battery with correct, large gauge wires. The only thing I haven't done yet is to adjust the BB-1 updraft carb. I'm searching for the correct information on initial setup after a rebuild. As usual, I have it somewhere, but can't find it at the moment. I just noticed in my linkage photo that i don't have the bolt in the exhaust pipe clamp. That needs to be done. Anything I may have forgotten? I promised my youngest granddaughter that she could be there for the first startup. At 13, she is exhibiting a real interest in cars. Since she lives just down the street, this won't be a problem. I'll take video of the first attempt. hopefully it will be uneventful. I know I've been promising to start Daphne for the last year, but it's actually going to happen - I hope.
  12. Also 32 Dodge Brothers DL. Won’t fit a 33.
  13. Based on other posts about Sactownog’s 34 (33?) Dodge, this gearbox won’t fit your car. The unit you have is identical to my 32 DL, a one year only design. I don’t think it’s for a Plymouth, but I’m not sure. It has the free wheeling extension on the back. I think they went with an integrated free wheeling setup in 33. I know the mounting system will not fit your car. It also looks like the rubber mount is shot, or even broken, by the way the shift gate lines up in several of your photos. Contact me if you plan to take this apart, as you can badly damage some valuable parts - ask someone who knows. ?. Even picking it up wrong can damage it if the rubber is bad.
  14. It would be great, but my 32 doesn’t have the brace. Not sure about overheating. Maybe metal is a better way to go.
  15. Since I’ve never seen the original coil, I can’t comment on it’s weight, but Bullfrog’s comments are reassuring. The ignition switch is off to the side of the dash, not covered by the instrument panel insert. Thanks for the comments, I’ll let you all know it works out.
  16. Just found this on Amazon. With the wall thickness and temperature range, I think this might do the trick. or, do you think it would be too flimsy?
  17. I've been trying to come up with a practical way to mount my coil. The 32 Dodge Brothers DL originally had one of those integrated coils where the ignition switch is built into the rear of the coil and the whole unit rests behind the dash as a single unit. Some of these type of coils were mounted on three prongs that accepted bolts on the back of the dash. My setup used a tubular mount that the coil and switch were clamped to. It worked like this - There is a company that still makes this type of coil, but they want almost three hundred bucks for the unit. My original coil was long gone, replaced by an aftermarket ignition switch and a separate, standard coil. I wanted to come up with something that would allow me to mount a coil under the dash, but still retain the ignition switch - since the key matches the key to my sidemount locks. When I bought the car in 1965, it was set up like the graphic below. Unfortunately, the ignition switch extends too far into the clamp to allow me to clamp an aftermarket coil inside behind it. So I came up with this solution - This way I can replace the coil without spending three hundred hard earned dollars. It also keeps the coil up under the dash almost in the original position. Now I have to figure out how to make the tube. The inside diameter of the coil holder is about 2.5 inches. The coil's diemeter is 2.25 inches. I probably don't even need a stepped tube, just one that is 2.25 ID and 2.5 OD. And checking, I found steel tubing with those exact dimensions. An eight inch piece is under ten bucks. My only concern is the combined weight of the coil and the tubing. I do want to keep the coil off the firewall for an original look. Any other ideas that might work?
  18. I checked, but it would be under the gas tank cover and not visible from the top view.
  19. So, I've taken over 4000 photos during the restoration of Daphne. Apparently, that just wasn't enough. I'm going through the exhaust system, getting ready to hook everything up. As I documented in earlier posts, I had the mounting bracket just behind the muffler remade (mine was missing) and the frame bracket re-vulcanized by Then And Now Automotive. So, all I had left was the rear mounting bracket. The problem is, I have two bags labelled "rear exhaust mount." This one... And this one... I went back through my frame disassembly photos and found these. It's obviously the first bracket, here on the rear of the frame... And here in a shot where i had the frame turned over. This looks like a jury-rigged setup to me. The other bracket looks a lot more substantial, but i can't find a single photograph of it on the frame. Exhaust systems are one of the items that have usually been changed on these old cars, so what is original and what isn't is always a crap shoot. If anyone has a 32 (or even a 31) with what they think is an original exhaust system, I'd be curious if there is anything like bracket two under there. How it got into the bag (with my writing on it) where is came from, and what it actually is, remain a mystery. I have come across a few bags with leftover parts from my long gone 48 Plymouth, but I never did anything to the exhaust on that car.
  20. As far as I know, all 32 radiators have that hole. My car did not come with the thermostatically controlled shutters. The original owner opted for side-mounts and wire wheels, but no shutters.
  21. The radiator attaches to the shell with flat head slotted screws and nuts. The pain is you have to stretch the hood lace away enough to get the screw in there and then get a screwdriver on it to tighten things down. It's a long and tricky process. Then it was time to put everything back on the car. Lots of protection for the fenders. Things went smoothly and the shell dropped into place with no damage, scratches, cursing or other problems. Filled with distilled water after hooking the hoses back up and no leaks or other difficulties,
  22. Put the radiator back in last weekend. Some interesting details in this assembly. First, the water leak that started the problem. And the repair. The area cleaned and soldered. The lower section of the radiator has this stamped steel piece that, I believe, helps direct air up and into the radiator. It attaches with these screw head bolts and nuts. Thankfully, they didn't break when I took things apart. I don't know where I'd ever find replacements. They go through the honeycomb of the radiator. This obviously would be a major problem if the radiator was re-cored with a modern core. Here are the bolts in place. Here you can see the scoop on the radiator. Everything assembled and ready to go. Now I dropped it into the grill shell. Everything fit perfectly - for a change.
  23. Also, add the cost of rechroming the bumpers. Nice looking car.
  24. I think Gary and the rest of the folks on the forum were just trying to answer your questions as best they could. It’s not our job to prove your car is or is not a genuine woodie, but to offer advice on finding the truth. This seems to be your main concern. If you want a nice car that is fun to drive and show at local events, it makes no difference. If you want to strive for national awards and high resale value, you’d better make sure of the car’s origin before you spend big bucks to finish the Pontiac. The word of an auctioneer, a friend or a wife, however well intentioned, do not constitute proof that the car started out as a woodie. You need numbers. Trust me, if you offer the completed car at a premium price in the future, and a prospective buyer asked for documentation that the vehicle is a real woodie, “Prove it’s not!” is not going to go over very well.