pont35cpe

You should be able to get the lock cyl assembly out without a key, if its not froze-up. Look close at the shaft, there is a small pin to knock out, once removed, the lock assembly should pull out the front.

Sure looks like it should mount to each side of the cowel. Got any pictures of the body, where the cowel, rear of the fender/hood, and door meet.

European? Right hand drive.

Rare Parts Inc. Stockton, Ca. (800) 621-2005 I bought complete upper and lower outer kits for mt `36 from them

Also make sure the choke cam is not holding the throttle open.

I feel better now, too..

Peter, ball should be rolling free, when its low in the hole its in the start position Try this, with bearing in hole put the first piece(piston/metal, w/formed end) in the hole (long end at the bottom), then use a pencil or something to push firmly on the back of the piston, then turn the throttle valve, you should feel movement at the piston. If this works, problem is in the electrical part not the mechanical part of the switch.

Peter, the copper contacts in the switch could be the problem. It would be easier to remove the one hold down screw of each switch and swap them. I can send one if you need it. Tom

Matt, do you have 2 Uni-Sync tools or just one to set the throttle valves. Also nice headers, homemade? And is that the original weighted flapper spacer under the rear carb?

This one says `39-`47 Mopar. Ebay 264584651188

Here is one on ebay item 173482753475

Hagen Auto Parts Puyallup, Wa. ph 1-253 845-7020 fax 1-253 841 1904 email: sales@hagenautoparts.com You`ll probably need to know spline/shaft size/amount of springs of disc. May require a core. Also, Kanter Auto Parts Boonton, N.J. email: Sales1@Kanter.com ph 1-800 526-1096 Again, may require a core. Don`t know if either ships out of the country.

Looks like it may fit on a rear tail light..

That`s not rain.. It`s tears from all the people that wished they had a Buick..

Like these..

Place to check, "Yesteryear" 941 743 7784

If it was in Texas it`d sell here..

Peter, once you get both primary carbs on, you may need a Uni-Sync tool to get the throttle valves set. Maybe someone will speak on this procedure and if it`s necessary.

35-2109 6cyl engine Has a 6cyl grill badge Hood ornament is a from a 1936 Pontiac 6cyl Right rear tail light and front fender lights are an option for the 6cyl cars, 8cyl cars were equipped with these. Is there any bumper guards on the front or rear?(can`t tell in the picture) If they are the Little Indians, that`s another option for 6cyl and 8cyl cars, these are a one year item only. Is the car in Washington state?

Like Bloo said, as long as it is in the unlocked position, you can get the spring and remainder of broken piece out, but need the key to get the cylinder out to see the 4 digit number. The number is located 90deg to the right of the "push" just behind the stainless steel cap. If its unlocked, remove spring, rotate broken piece toward spring location, then push from bottom of broken piece, it should slide out of the grooves.

Maybe the dash gauges/speedometer are a different color for `34-`35.. Just guessing.

I don`t think its GM because of the square not splined shaft for the crank.

My 2500 series the hinge straddles the cowel and there is 2-7/16" 20 bolts on each side.

Peter, I`ve always had the air/gas screws backed off 1 1/2 turns for initial fire-up, then once the engine is running, warmed up and idling, then I screw in (one at a time) the air/gas screw until engine flutters a little, then back it off until it smooths out, usually 1/4 to 1/2 turn. If your idle speed increases, reset the idle, and repeat the air/gas screw adjustment. If you have started the car several times without driving it, it may have built up condensation in the muffler. Taking it out for a drive should clear it up..

It`s actually 1/8" NPT