RKAJFSAZ

Please send me pics and additional info on your 12A project RKAJFASZ@FRONTIER.COM or RKAJFASZ @ADVCIRCUIT.COM (work, always here) or give me call 585-329-4809 Thanks Bob

I have used the Caswell epoxy system 5 times now. The last tank I did sat for 16 years full of gas (ugly), the key is do a good job cleaning the tank out, after draining I put in a few quarts of good solvent and let it sit overnight, then a long cleaning with a pressure washer and strong detergent, flush it out till only clear water is coming out. Blow dry (oil free) compressed air through it overnight at about 5 PSI. Coat the tank per instructions, I have had excellent results, would never consider a single component system again (had a bad experience once). Its a bit expensive, like $80 on EBAY, but well worth it.

I was hoping someone would know: 1- The resistance of the tank sending unit when empty 2- The resistance of the tank sending unit when full as measured on the driver side terminal block, with the two wires that go the instrument gauge disconnected (just looking for the range of the sending unit). When I dropped the tank to clean it out (a job I hate), I discovered the sending unit was missing. I have a few of the instrument gas gauges, but not sure if there any good. Im going to try and get a gauge & sending unit set up and functioning on the bench before installing in the car (the gauges were made by Nagel) Thanks Bob K

ANYONE KNOW WHAT THE RESISTANCE OF THE SERIES 12 GAS TANK SENDING UNIT SHOULD BE, NEED TO FIND SOMETHING THAT WILL WORK FOR MY NEW PROJECT THANKS, BOB K

If the delicate aluminum drum (with the speed printed on it) gets distorted in any way by improper handling, the thing won't work (I have three like this). Im surprised there's not an expert who repairs these, thought they were used in a lot of higher end cars, not just Franklins. I think 1928 was the last year they were used.

Does anyone repair Waltham Tesla air friction speedometers ?, application is a 1928 Franklin

My son took me for a ride in his 24 Reo coupe on a beautiful Easter morning, this is the first time this car has been on the road in about 50 years, starts easy and runs great

I have a 4 cylinder Kellogg air pump Model 4F with gears and lever on display in my office, looks close to your photo, contact me if you wish I can send photos ( I think my son also has a 2nd one), I always thought it was an early air starter Bob 585-329-4809

I had the same problem on my 37 Lafayette, drove me nuts, after 15 years the sealer came off in sheets and plugged the fuel line. Took the tank out, drained it, filled it with a few pounds of small rocks and pressure washed the inside for about an hour till it was all loose, blow air in it till its dry (like 24 hrs), make sure the inside is clean ( use a flashlight & inspection mirror). I then coated the inside of the tank with Caswell epoxy tank sealer (the stuff is great), that was about six years ago, have since used the process on my Franklin and my sons Reo. The stuffs expensive but worth it.

Steve How are the jugs modified (holes drilled or more to it ) and whats different with the pistons ? Bob

Scott The gear is for the mutual friend, he is not an internet guy, I thought I would try to help him out, he showed up at the Franklin Trek looking for some parts, all my stuff is Series 12 Thanks Bob K 585-329-4809

Contact number for the gear 585-329-4809 Thanks Bob

Im looking for an ignition gear for a 1922 Franklin, the one thats on the bottom of the distributor Thanks Bob K

Clarification, this pad is located on the firewall facing the cabin interior Bob

What modern material can be used to fabricate a replacement engine firewall insulation pad that has a look close to the original ? The application is a 1930 REO. Thanks Bob K

Yes we do, I feel foolish I missed the "Skinner" tag on the rectifier unit. The body of this car is coming along very nicely, Im sure it will be a wonderful restoration when complete. Bob P.S. Are you the source of the " Cleveland " touring ?

I visited an old friend of mine this weekend who is restoring a 1922 Franklin, looking at the naked chassis I noticed something out of place, at least to me, who's use to looking at a Series 12. The gizmo is located between the exhaust pipe and the fuel intake heat exchanger, it looks like it has an attachment to engine vacuum and a line goes into the block. Each cylinder has a collar type clamp ​and a channel running between them below the cooling fins, this attaches to the gizmo. The installation is very well done, look like a factory thing. What does this do ?, Franklin option cold weather oil heater ? Thanks in advance for any info Bob Kajfasz

Mike & Bill Thanks for the replies, having the upper spring bolster block install backwards increased the caster angle, adding the additional shim on the lower spring increased it further, do you think this was done intentionally ? I know this car was never driven after it was reassembled by the previous owner in the 80's, I put about 100 miles on it and it just does not seem to handle right. Bob K

I have 1928 12A Victoria, it looks like the front bolster block on the top leaf spring was installed backwards (the wide end facing the rear of the car) when attempting to fix the problem I noticed a cast aluminum shim between the bottom leaf spring and the front axle. Does anyone know if this is an original Franklin part or something someone added to fix the original problem. This part is not on my 12A sedan nor can I find any reference to it in the Parts Catalog. Are the 12A Sedan and Victoria front suspensions identical ? I found it strange that the part was cast and not machined. Thanks for any help Bob Kajfasz

If your Marmon is still available, please give me a call I have a few questions Thanks Bob 585-329-4809

I think I have a bunch of good used rotors that fit a 12A, get me your address and I will send you one - no charge Bob Kajfasz RKAJFASZ@ADVCIRCUIT.COM