Silverdome

Details please. What brand? What's the cost? Where purchased?

I would suggest 1/0 or 2/0. See post #9 on page one for the difference in sizes.

The threaded post on the starter is insulated from the starter case. The starter case is NOT insulated from the transmission, bell housing, engine, frame or body. So negative cable to the threaded post, positive cable to the starter case, transmission, bell housing, engine, frame or body. If you touch your negative cable from your battery to any of these, the starter case, transmission, bell housing, engine, frame or body, you will get a spark or worse such as a burned wire if you are truly positive grounded.

Check McMaster Carr or MSC Industrial for an adjustable reamer around 5/8 (.625) diameter.

Has your car been changed to a negative ground? If not then the negative cable going to the starter would go on the threaded post.

X2 on the heavy cables. On my '48 Plymouth I used double 0 on battery negative to solenoid and solenoid to starter then I used single 0 from battery positive to ground.

royal1, It is definitely a Chrysler product. There should be a number on the passenger door b-pillar where the hinges are attached somewhere below the belt line. You're probably going to catch a little hell on this web site as most people on here are not into hot rods. You'll probably get more help on the H.A.M.B. web site if you're leaning toward the traditional style hot rod. Good luck with your project and let us know what your plans are then maybe we can point you in a direction that will provide answers better suited to your style of build.

Nice survivor. Any more pictures?

You might find someone at www.slantsix.org it is a website dedicated to slant sixes.

Thanks, BearsFan315 thtat's the info I needed.

Don't know. Do you have a picture of the '30 hubcaps?

I know they're 16 threads per inch but I don't have the hub here to measure the diameter. I am trying to repair a part for a family member.

What is the thread size for a 1929 Chevy screw on style hub cap?

I believe Andy Bernbaum and Robert's sell them.

I received these this morning and they are as advertised. Thanks very much to 1933moparman.

On the ones that are not protruding make sure you are centered and try to find a left handed drill bit that is smaller than the tap drill size for your broken bolts.

PB Blaster is my penetrating oil of choice. On your broken bolts I would apply some of the above and let it soak awhile then if there is any part of the bolt sticking up I would weld a nut to it that is large enough to just fit over the broken bolt and weld through the center of the nut. The heat will help in the loosening and then you can use a wrench on the nut to twist it out.

Just a suggestion. Before pulling the head take the valve covers off and observe the valves to see if they are operating properly. I have been able to free stuck valves this way to avoid pulling the head. Plus it will let you know if it's valve related or rings stuck.

Thanks, PM sent.

Can you send a picture of the fifth one and also the back sides of all?

I received my steering wheel from Ken (KLF) today and I must say it actually looks better than the pictures. A big thanks to you Ken.

The hood vents were the only thing I'm aware of.

Got mine in the mail today. It was as advertised in the pictures. Thank you Roy.

jimy, Thanks for the spring pictures. I'll let you know on the wheel as I have two '34 Dodges it just depends on my budget at the moment.

Thehandleman sent me a good restorable horn button assembly. Thanks. I need to know what size the spring under the button is so I can go to Ace hardware and check to see if they might have one. Anyone know?