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Posts posted by kookie1

  1. Hi jdshott,


    Sorry I'm a little slow with responding but I have to come to the library to post.     I did my front brakes about a year ago on my grandpa's '37 Pontiac Deluxe 6 Touring Sedan.   Here are some of the pix I took.    The first two are before I started to replace the steel lines which are all original.    Actually the entire vehicle is original, grandpa was a stickler for leaving it in the garage if it was raining.    I decided to bypass replacing the old steel lines and went with copper-nickle lines instead.    Glad I did cuz it's a whole lot easier bending copper lines to match the old steel ones.     The brass junction you are concerned with can be seen in the pix quite well if you zoom in.    I think the junction you found on Ebay should work with a little modification if you don't mind drilling a new hole to mount it.    Maybe the junction can be swivelled with a little work so you can use the original chassis hole.   Might be worth a try.


    Anyway, I hope these pix help.     Kookie1

    00_Old Steel line_Front Left.JPG

    01_Brake Line_Left_Front.JPG




  2. Hey, PP you found a hole cover!!    U da man!!    I never thought I'd see an actual '37 hole cover.  

    Where did you find one?     Is that a metal grab flap on top or maybe it's a grab strap to pull it out of the hole.  It's hard to tell from the picture.  Now that I think about it, I assume the hollow portion with the raised ridge goes on the inside to hold it in place, right?   So what sticks out of the hole when it's plugged is the grab strap or whatever you call it.   I'm just guessing here as you probably gathered.


    Thanks for the photos PP!

  3. Just thought I'd say I've eventually figured out, after further cleaning the heads of what I thought were not heads at all, that they're actually screw heads with a slot....DUH!!      I just wish someone would have said, "Hey, bozo, try a screwdriver in the bolt slot, that usually works for me!!"   Ha!    Guess I should have done a better cleaning job before asking for help.    Anyway, I'm now further into doing my own clutch yoke release boot.    Thanks again to all who took the time to help!    

  4. Thanks for the file, hwellens, it does answer some of my questions.   One being does any pump have numbers starting with a "9".    Apparently they do.   At first I thought my grandpa's car was original just because of how he used it and kept it.    But I guess he must have had some problems since it has a 1949-52 WA-1 carburetor which was not original.   Now I'm thinking he may have had the fuel pump replaced as well.    Anyway, thanks for the response.


    I hear ya, PetePontiac-1, but I never was a big fan of clubs.   I'm kind of a loner and DIY-er.    I've talked with Kurt before on other matters and he seems to be a helpful guy and a great resource.     Thanks for all the details too!

  5. I want to order a fuel pump kit and to do that I need the pump number.     I can't figure out what this number is.    I haven't taken the pump off the car yet and can't read the number from above so I shoved my camera down low and took some photos of the flange number, after cleaning off with a wire brush of course.   The pump is on my 1937 Pontiac 6 Deluxe Touring Sedan, 223 engine, std transmission.    It's a dual diaphragm unit with slotted screws.  Here are five of those pix I took.   It looks like it's 9242 or 9342, possibly 32-12 or 93-12 by looking at the second digit near the bottom of the stamped digit.  Suppose it could be 92-12 or 32-42 but I don't know of any fuel pump stamping with a dash like that so I'm guessing it's a number 4.    The first number looks like a 9 but I haven't seen any kits starting with a 9 for an AC pump.  Kind of a sloppy stamping as you can see which makes it tough to read.


    Can anyone tell me, with any certainty, what these number are.


    Thanks, in advance!

    1_Fuel Pump_#.JPG

    2_Fuel Pump_#.JPG

    3_Fuel Pump_#.JPG

    4_Fuel Pump_#.JPG

    5_Fuel Pump_#.JPG

  6. Well, I took the whole thing out of the car, coil, cable and lock.    It's sitting on the work bench and I still have no idea how to get the coil off it's cap.   Chewed up my hand trying to use a feeler gauge and I've finally given up with the feeler gauge idea.    It's obviously not going to work.   I can't believe no one has a picture of the inside of the cap and coil laying around.    Surely I'm not the first person with this problem.    Does anyone have a picture of the inside of the coil cap?     I'd settle for a picture or a drawing or even a drawing of the special tool.     Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated too!!

  7. Thanks, 1940TORPEDO, for the shot.    It looks rather deep, that is thick, but who know, although you can't really tell how deep it would be in reality from a diagram pix.    I was hoping someone who actually had one would add a pix of it here but who know, it could happen eventually.


    I know now, thanks to you, they really did make a timing hole cover in '37.

  8. Thanks, Tinindian, for your info, it does help.    It gave me another idea in case I decide to make a cover.    My 223 engine has a 1-1/4" square hole as you can see.   I've since seen the rubber Chevy covers you can purchase that are oval shaped but I don't know the size of them at this point.   I really wanted to know if Pontiac actually made a cover for this engine and what it looked like.   Maybe someone who knows will chime in.


    Thanks again for your input!

    Timing hole_1.25Sq.JPG

  9. Does anyone have a photo of the timing hole cover?     As I understand it there was an original timing hole cover but many were either never replaced after timing the engine or simply lost, either misplaced or dislodged and lost while in operation.    If I remember correctly I read here that someone still had their original timing hole cover.    Apparently they're a rare sighting on an engine.

  10. Can someone tell me how the get the cap off my 6 volt coil, 1937 Pontiac 6 Touring Sedan?   I've never seen the inside of the cap so I don't know how to release the catch.   The shop manual says use a special tool J-729, I think that's the number, but no picture of it is available.    I used the approximate position on the coil shown in the picture in the manual and tried to push a .008" feeler gauge up alongside the cap.   Needless to say that doesn't work.   When I twist the coil I can feel the catch stopping the coil's rotation.    So, can anyone suggest what they've used instead of this special tool to get the cap off the coil?    Thanks!!

  11. Yes, it does help 1940Torpedo, thanks.    I've removed all the pedal parts, cleaned and painted them ready for installation but my shop manual doesn't have an exploded view of all the parts.    This will definitely help...considering my ageing brain for remembering how things go back together.    My camera is my only backup.   I suspect finding that clutch yoke cover to purchase is long gone but I am very curious as to what others have done as a replacement.    The diagram shows what appears to be bolts that hold this cover on but they're definitely not bolts as you can see in the pix.    I read somewhere that it snaps on but I've yet to figure out how that is.     Anyway, thanks for the info and the effort !!

  12. No, Gary, I haven't looked into the magazine scene.   I have checked California Pontiac Restorations, Steele Rubber, Kanter Auto Products and several other websites from the Pontiac's of Central California website links page but still haven't had any luck yet.     Guess I just assumed about any old Pontiac owner would have come across this same problem before me.     Maybe I'm wrong!

  13. I sure could use a bit of help here if anyone knows.   I've searched for any info about my 37 Pontiac 6's clutch yoke boot seal but I can't find any info on it.   I want

    to replace the old boot with a new one but can't find anything about it.   First of all, can someone tell me how to remove it?   And secondly, is a replacement possible to purchase or is it only a custom repair option.   It appears to be leather or maybe another fabric material.


    Thanks, in advance, for any insight!

    Clutch Yoke Boot 1.JPG

    Clutch Yoke Boot 2.JPG

    Pedal Support Bracket.JPG

  14. I've been searching here for fuel line connections and one person suggested to another to put a bubble on the end (the first step in making a double flare) of the fuel line from the tank.     Is that what was originally used with the original flexible fuel line hoses?     Surely someone out there has changed their hoses.    Does anyone know for sure?

  15. The old fuel hose screwed into the fuel pump but the other end was cut off and the rubber hose pushed over the 5/16" steel fuel line.    I want to replace the fuel line and  return it to the original fuel line hose with the metal threaded connections at both ends of the hose.    My problem is I have no idea what the metal connection with internal threads (1/2 x20 tpi) is on the metal fuel line side.    It doesn't look like an inverted flare tube fitting connection?    Can someone tell me exactly what Pontiac used for these fittings?    I'd appreciate any help!     Thanks.

  16. I'd like to add a tachometer to my 37 Pontiac Deluxe 6 Touring Sedan. I prefer to keep the car as close to original as possible but I've always had a tach in my vehicles. I'd like to keep it small, like the 2" types. I'm not talking about the tachs that require a sending unit just the simple connection type to the battery and coil. All I can find are the 12 volt versions. First question: Is this voltage just for the bulb in the unit? Will these 12v tachs operate on 6 volts if you change the bulb since they're only sensing pulses from the coil?

    Second question: Should I be looking for a tach range of 0-4000 or 0-6000 or 0-8000 rpm? The 37 Pontiac produces 85 brake-hp at 3520 rpm. So what rpm would I be running at, at say 60 mph? I guess the question should be what is the top rpm of this engine (223 cu.in., L-head, 6 cyl)?

    I'd appreciate any help! Thanks

  17. Can someone tell me what the threads are on the oil galley plugs of a straight 6, 223 engine, 1937 Pontiac. I tried to remove one the other day to measure it but couldn't break any of the three loose. By measuring the o.d. of the threads sticking out of the block it looks like 7/16" and a fine thread as well which is confusing. It's too cold in Minnesota right now to do any more but I wanted to order flare fittings for a hard line, remote oil filter.

    After some research I see most people recommend using -8an flare fittings or larger with the usual rubber hose approach. I want to install a hard line instead. I thought if I knew the oil galley plug threads then the fittings for that thread size would determine the largest size tubing to use for the hard line. My previous thought was to use 3/8 npt threads but they are too large. Also would 1/4" lines be too small to use? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

  18. I see them now, thanks Charles, and the right side looks like it has more room on the 6 cyl. than the distributor side has so I'll probably make a bracket to attach it to there. While looking around for an attachment location I see this shutoff cock, see attachment pix, between the distributor and oil filler tube. What is it for? I'd guess to drain water from the block but I don't know. Wouldn't the radiator drain cock do that well enough? I was thinking about using that spot to anchor my bracket but it's a little too cramped there anyway. Is this drain cock something I need to watch or replace? And one last question: What size id oil line do I need to efficiently send oil to the filter? Is larger better or maybe it doesn't matter? I'm thinking about keeping everything attached to the engine to avoid having to use rubber hose which I'm not crazy about. Thanks again. Paul


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