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Everything posted by kookie1

  1. Well, I"m still in the need of a cover so I can put my manifolds back on the car. I contacted Kurt and he doesn't have a choke stove cover and stated he's never seen one either. So I called Joe Curtis in NC who also has parts and found out he passed away 2 years ago. I check Ebay fairly often but nothing. So now I'm wondering who else I could contact. I''m running out of ideas. Any help would be appreciated.
  2. Good pix Bloo, thanks. Gives me a good idea of the correct position. Looks like the deflector is positioned more forward to shield more of the float bowl on most of those pix. That corresponds to how the exploded diagram deflector is drawn too.
  3. Ok, thanks for the heads-up. I'm at the public library now but I'll check into my '37 parts manual as well when I get home. My '37 touring sedan 6 has a 1949-52 single barrel carb on it so I'm not sure how that compares to a '37's original WA-1 but that's something else I'll have to look into. My carb is off the car right now waiting for a new gasket/parts kit job but I noticed it did have two carb gaskets under it. There are two carb to manifold gaskets in the carb kit. I've read somewhere that two were used to help reduce heat from the manifold. Is that why they supply t
  4. Oh boy, thanks a bunch guys, those pix are better than I thought I'd ever get to see! It's exactly what I needed since I want to keep as close to the original look as I can. I'm an old, retired, shop teacher, emphasis on the 'old', so fabricating a copy shouldn't be too hard. I blocked all the holes in the manifolds, sand blasted both and painted them with high temp manifold paint. But I couldn't put them back on the car until I figured out what to do with this cover plate I didn't have. I original thought, from the drawing, that the furthest cover dimples or holes may
  5. Hey Bloo, Yes, I grabbed that Early Times Chapter view also when the site was up. Viewing the drawing I couldn't tell if the two holes closest together, 4.5" apart, were the anchor holes for the plate or the furthest apart holes in the corners were the screw holes? Then I noticed the two raised bumps on the exhaust manifold that are further apart, passed the screws holes, at about 14" apart so then I wondered which holes were the screw holes? If the cover plate rests on the manifold's raised area around the screw holes I would guess the plate has a gap between it
  6. I've searched the web and couldn't find any reproductions of a '37 Pontiac exhaust manifold cover only an exploded engine view drawing of it. The shop manual shows it as group #3602, part #497612. It appears to be just a sheet metal piece. My manifold doesn't have one so I guess I get to fabricate one myself. The drawing is only a line drawing but looks as if the edges of it are formed a bit, can't really tell from a line drawing. The base of the two screws on the manifold that hold this cover in place are raised just a bit off the surface of the manifold so I'm guessing there is
  7. I only ask because I noticed while researching stainless washers that they have a high heat range up to 300 degrees. Exhaust manifolds surpass that temperature range so I wondered if that could be a potential problem? Has anyone used extra thick stainless washers on their manifolds and experience any problems with their use? I thought I better be more specific with my questions so I added this.
  8. I've removed intake and exhaust manifolds on my '37 Pontiac Deluxe 6 to sandblast and paint. Now on re-installing I need to replace the 1/8" thick manifold washers but they're hard to find being they have to be an inch o.d. I've located ones that are stainless and also plain zinc plated steel that will work but I'm wondering if high temperatures of the exhaust manifold will affect the stainless steel washers. Since the price is practically the same as well as the overall measurements which would be a better choice? I suppose to remain as close to the originals I should stick with the p
  9. Thanks for the pix, PP. You've shown us these before in a previous post but this time with measurements. That definitely helps! I'm wondering if the strap across the front, which I assume is to pull it out of the timing hole, is made of the same foam rubber or is it made of something else? It's hard to tell from the pix. I'm also wondering if one could fabricate a copy with a 3D printer using a denser plastic that can be printed, which requires some serious heating of the plastic to liquefy it, and end up with a hole cover that can handle the under-the-hood heat buildup? Guess I
  10. Nice sleuth work on the rubber timing hole cover John. I've looked into it in the past and found that Steele Rubber doesn't make a reproduction of the rubber cover. I was figuring they for sure would have one on their rubber item list since that's their specialty but I guess not. I also looked into California Pontiac Restoration and Kanter Auto Parts out east but they don't have it either. I was hoping someone made a reproduction of it but I guess I'll still be looking. I imagine few timing hole covers survived due to years of under the hood heat that dries out the rubber and
  11. Hi John, No, I don't get Smoke Signals magazine. I'll pm you for the address. Thanks!! Paul
  12. No questions John!! I wasn't expecting that much detail, I'm not complaining mind you, just appreciative you took the time to do all that sketching and explaining. Thanks a bunch for all the effort. With all that info I should be able to precisely duplicate your battery tray. By reading your explanation it's obvious you're a DIY person at heart. Being an old industrial arts instructor it's obvious to me you've built thing before and know the intricacies of preforming radius bends, etc. Good eye also on why the notches in the side sections are there. I think you're correct in th
  13. John, I hear ya. I'm doing the same thing that is to put the '37 back on the road, as close to original as I can get, as a runner, not a show car. Some pix here are the original pix I took before cleaning things up before restoration. I replaced my original steel brake line with a copper/nickel line since it can be bent with your hands without tools and was a whole lot easier to bend to the original curves. I took out the steel lines and just matched the curves on the workbench before installation. Worked quite well. I've added text to some of the pix but I'm sur
  14. Hi John, I've got pix at home, I'm at public library right now, of my '37 6-cyl. 4-door touring sedan if that will do. I'll look them up tonight. I'm pretty sure you're correct about the lines travel but I'll double check tonight and add some pix tomorrow. Paul
  15. Super!!! John, seeing the underneath now really answers all my previous questions. I can see the slots and the support hangers, or whatever you call them, which give the box extra support for the weight of a battery. Thanks a bunch for the extra underneath shots. Those really helped! I think I can now reproduce what the original box looked like. Paul PS. I hope Yellowstone got the same snow Colorado recently got. We always have had plenty of snow there for downhill playing. Good luck doing some serious cross country!! Have a great
  16. Sorry, John, I'm a little slow at responding but I've been skiing in Colorado and just got back. Thanks for taking the time and effort to take these pix!! I'm just a little confused trying to examine the pix. Are the two bent support rods over the edge on both sides going into any slots or are they just welded in place and hang over the top to hold the battery box up? Or maybe they're clips of some sort? I can't seem to make out how they work in the pix. Actually it looks like the front of the battery box is welded to the frame? My '37 4-door touring sedan doesn't have a bar
  17. HI M., Well, that person did a great job at taking a pix for you. Your floor plate is pretty clean. My cover plate was over-coated on top anyway, with something they sprayed over the entire floor as a rust preventative coating and it appears original whatever it is. Thanks for getting at least those pix. As I said earlier I want to reproduce an original looking battery box the battery sits in. Is your battery box the original '37 box or do you think it was replaced sometime ago? I'd like to see it someday if that's possible. I understand it's in storage but if you
  18. Thanks M. but I have the battery's floor plate and it looks exactly like yours. I'm really interested in getting a look at the original '37 battery box the battery sits in.
  19. Thanks Gary, I did have a look a while ago, in my initial search, at Gary W.'s battery tray. His has bolt holes in the tray supports. Mine have two, 2 inch slots on both sides of the supports. Others have said Pontiac used these slots, at least on one side anyway, to hold short arms that stick through the slots of the battery tray. The other two slots on the other side may have been used for bolts. At least that would make sense since there is no reason for the slots because there's no reason to move the tray left or right between the supports. Anyway, I'll keep looking for an or
  20. HI M., No, haven't seen a pix of the tray yet. Can't really blame anyone for not wanting to remove their battery just to take a pix of the tray for someone else. I was hoping someone in the middle of a restoration would have taken a pix of their tray just to record it for a before and after record. I do it all the time. Makes it a lot easier later on to remember how everything goes back together. I check here regularly but nothing yet. Haven't given up hope yet!! Ha!
  21. Does anyone have a picture of their battery tray, old or restored? I want to fabricate a copy of the originally designed battery tray. Thanks, in advance, for your time and effort!! I've searched the web for '37 battery tray pix to no avail. I guess being the battery rests under the floor few people would show that view.
  22. There is a shift lever spring on Ebay right now. It's very similar to, I think, as the one for my '37 Pontiac 6, at least the end of the shift lever looks identical to mine. You may have to open up the end cap to a round hole but that wouldn't be too hard to do. You could always ask the seller for the springs i.d. and length to be sure it would work. Just a thought. https://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-1935-1936-Pontiac-Shift-Lever-Spring-Cup-NOS-Part-553573/142956993477?hash=item2148e69bc5:g:-skAAOSw6oBXFFJ9:sc:USPSFirstClass!55122!US!-1:rk:12:pf:0&vxp=mtr
  23. Thanks, Bloo! After what you said I took another look at the supporting frame of the battery box under the bent over top flaps and it does, like you said, have two slots. I hadn't noticed that before. There are two slots on both front and rear sides of the supporting frame. There are no places on the supporting frames that show any previous rivet locations or would indicate previous rivets by means of holes. I really wish someone would photograph their original '37 battery box so I could duplicate it. Guess I can always hope! Thanks again for responding!
  24. I've got my grandfather's 37 Pontiac 6 Touring Sedan, which is almost totally original, I'm working on. I was wondering if this is the original battery box. The box looks rather crude to be an original. The bent over flaps on the top looks like someone used a cutting torch to cut it out which makes me wonder if it's original. Can someone tell me or show me a picture of what the original box looks like? It doesn't look to me like a factory produced battery box that would come with a finished car. I'd appreciate any help! Sorry about the partial pix I've included. I
  25. John, I found it on the car! Ha! Just joking. As I said earlier the car is all original. The junction is the original junction that came on the '37 Pontiacs. All I did was take it off and sandblast it to clean it up. There is a guy I think he's in Missouri but I can't remember that has a lot of Pontiacs that probably would have that part but I can't remember his name right now. I'll have to check my records at home (I'm at the local library right now) and add that info tomorrow. Paul OK, just remembered him without going home. He told me
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