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Everything posted by kookie1

  1. Thanks John and Bloo. I want to keep the car as close to original as I can. This will be the only piece that isn't original, well, original after my grandfather gave it up. It's got a WA-1 carb from a '49-52 so I guess it isn't really, totally original but everything else is. I guess I can live with that. As they say, in this life we don't actually own anything, we're just custodians. Hope some other guys with more experience than I have can chime in on this manifold sealer question this weekend.
  2. Hi Bloo, No, I didn't find a choke stove cover. I called as well as emailed several people from the catalog images you sent me but no luck. I finally decided to make my own thanks to John Hess for the ruler image and you for the straight-on image. I used those pix to create a drawing/pattern in a Word document so I could reduce/enlarge the image to fit the measurements John gave me. It worked pretty well. I cut out a piece of 1/8" steel plate for a fixture to bend the 20 gauge sheet metal over. That was necessary because of the manifold's raised cast iron bosses around the bolt holes that hold the cover in place. I'm pretty happy about the way it turned out. I had to use 5/16" bolts because I had to drill out the original 1/4" screws in the manifold that were totally rusted in place. As far as the torque question goes, yes, the manifolds are already flat and even, no warping visible. I've purchased grade 8, 1/8" thick washers as well. They happened to be zinc plated which acts as a lubricant also when figuring torque values. Are you aware of anyone using gasket sealant on the manifold gaskets before installation? Any problems doing that?
  3. I'm about to install my cleaned and painted manifolds with new gaskets but the engine studs and nuts are original. I'm wondering what torque values I should be using on the 3/8" nuts. I've read all about plain steel bolts of pre-40s cars stretching due to over tightening. If I'm following the recommended charts, is 28 ft. lbs. enough for manifolds and should I be using anti seize on the studs? The charts specify 30-35 ft. lbs. and a 15 to 25% applied reduction in torque if anti-seize is used? And is it a good idea to use a light coating of 'Copper Spray-a-Gasket Sealant' on the manifold gaskets before assembly? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks
  4. Hi Guys, I'm looking for an exhaust manifold choke stove cover, group #3602, for my 37 Pontiac 6. Anybody have one lying around for sale? A little rust never hurt anybody.
  5. Great Bloo, I'd be grateful if you'd do that! I have the CPA catalog but it's a no go there too. I'm not a Early Times Chapter or Oakland Pontiac member either so I'd appreciate if you'd take the time to look! I think you're correct in that Pontiac used this same choke stove cover for many years. Thanks a bunch!
  6. Well, I"m still in the need of a cover so I can put my manifolds back on the car. I contacted Kurt and he doesn't have a choke stove cover and stated he's never seen one either. So I called Joe Curtis in NC who also has parts and found out he passed away 2 years ago. I check Ebay fairly often but nothing. So now I'm wondering who else I could contact. I''m running out of ideas. Any help would be appreciated.
  7. Good pix Bloo, thanks. Gives me a good idea of the correct position. Looks like the deflector is positioned more forward to shield more of the float bowl on most of those pix. That corresponds to how the exploded diagram deflector is drawn too.
  8. Ok, thanks for the heads-up. I'm at the public library now but I'll check into my '37 parts manual as well when I get home. My '37 touring sedan 6 has a 1949-52 single barrel carb on it so I'm not sure how that compares to a '37's original WA-1 but that's something else I'll have to look into. My carb is off the car right now waiting for a new gasket/parts kit job but I noticed it did have two carb gaskets under it. There are two carb to manifold gaskets in the carb kit. I've read somewhere that two were used to help reduce heat from the manifold. Is that why they supply two carb. gaskets in the kits?
  9. Oh boy, thanks a bunch guys, those pix are better than I thought I'd ever get to see! It's exactly what I needed since I want to keep as close to the original look as I can. I'm an old, retired, shop teacher, emphasis on the 'old', so fabricating a copy shouldn't be too hard. I blocked all the holes in the manifolds, sand blasted both and painted them with high temp manifold paint. But I couldn't put them back on the car until I figured out what to do with this cover plate I didn't have. I original thought, from the drawing, that the furthest cover dimples or holes maybe rested on the further away bumps (about 14" apart) but now I can see, thanks John for the tape measure pix, how large the plate is and now figure those bumps are most likely remanent sprue holes from when they poured the cast iron to guarantee a full, complete casting. I do have another question. My grandfather's car didn't have a 3.326 deflector either but it did have two carb. gaskets in place. Guess I'll have to make another piece. I would assume the deflector went between the gaskets. Is that correct? Also is the bend in that plate at 90 degrees? I've views some web pix of that deflector, from the right side of the engine, that show the vertical part to be equally spaced on the left and right side of the carb. But in the above exploded diagram it appears to be made to mostly extend to the front of the engine? I don't think it's the viewing angle because of the oblique, exploded drawing or the different looking horizontal part on the right side of the carb hole. Which is the correct position for this deflector? Would you have any idea of the metal gauge of this piece? Any measurements of the vertical part, length and width? Thanks guys, you're the best!! Paul
  10. Hey Bloo, Yes, I grabbed that Early Times Chapter view also when the site was up. Viewing the drawing I couldn't tell if the two holes closest together, 4.5" apart, were the anchor holes for the plate or the furthest apart holes in the corners were the screw holes? Then I noticed the two raised bumps on the exhaust manifold that are further apart, passed the screws holes, at about 14" apart so then I wondered which holes were the screw holes? If the cover plate rests on the manifold's raised area around the screw holes I would guess the plate has a gap between it and the manifold. So with a gap, why would you need holes in the plate for air to pass into the cavity? Doesn't seem necessary to me or maybe the original plate sat against the manifold. Is your cover plate up against the manifold body? Thanks Bloo for looking for a pix!!
  11. I've searched the web and couldn't find any reproductions of a '37 Pontiac exhaust manifold cover only an exploded engine view drawing of it. The shop manual shows it as group #3602, part #497612. It appears to be just a sheet metal piece. My manifold doesn't have one so I guess I get to fabricate one myself. The drawing is only a line drawing but looks as if the edges of it are formed a bit, can't really tell from a line drawing. The base of the two screws on the manifold that hold this cover in place are raised just a bit off the surface of the manifold so I'm guessing there is an air space or gap of maybe 1/16" or so. Is that correct or do the edges of the cover plate rest against the manifold body? Sure wish I had a picture of an stock cover. Since you can't really remove one without removing the exhaust manifold first, does anyone have a picture of this cover, maybe when they overhauled their manifolds? I sure would appreciate a pix or possible able to talk to someone who made their own cover. Any help would be appreciated!
  12. I only ask because I noticed while researching stainless washers that they have a high heat range up to 300 degrees. Exhaust manifolds surpass that temperature range so I wondered if that could be a potential problem? Has anyone used extra thick stainless washers on their manifolds and experience any problems with their use? I thought I better be more specific with my questions so I added this.
  13. I've removed intake and exhaust manifolds on my '37 Pontiac Deluxe 6 to sandblast and paint. Now on re-installing I need to replace the 1/8" thick manifold washers but they're hard to find being they have to be an inch o.d. I've located ones that are stainless and also plain zinc plated steel that will work but I'm wondering if high temperatures of the exhaust manifold will affect the stainless steel washers. Since the price is practically the same as well as the overall measurements which would be a better choice? I suppose to remain as close to the originals I should stick with the plain zinc coated steel washers. Any suggestions would be appreciated? Thanks
  14. Thanks for the pix, PP. You've shown us these before in a previous post but this time with measurements. That definitely helps! I'm wondering if the strap across the front, which I assume is to pull it out of the timing hole, is made of the same foam rubber or is it made of something else? It's hard to tell from the pix. I'm also wondering if one could fabricate a copy with a 3D printer using a denser plastic that can be printed, which requires some serious heating of the plastic to liquefy it, and end up with a hole cover that can handle the under-the-hood heat buildup? Guess I'd have to know more about 3D printers and certain plastic's properties. Anyway, just a thought. I'm amazed your timing hole cover looks that good with almost no deterioration after all these years. Paul
  15. Nice sleuth work on the rubber timing hole cover John. I've looked into it in the past and found that Steele Rubber doesn't make a reproduction of the rubber cover. I was figuring they for sure would have one on their rubber item list since that's their specialty but I guess not. I also looked into California Pontiac Restoration and Kanter Auto Parts out east but they don't have it either. I was hoping someone made a reproduction of it but I guess I'll still be looking. I imagine few timing hole covers survived due to years of under the hood heat that dries out the rubber and makes it stiff and brittle. Which is probably why they simply shrink a bit and fall out of the hole over time. I'll keep looking though anyway. Thanks for the research. Maybe someone will chime in with more insight!! Paul
  16. Hi John, No, I don't get Smoke Signals magazine. I'll pm you for the address. Thanks!! Paul
  17. No questions John!! I wasn't expecting that much detail, I'm not complaining mind you, just appreciative you took the time to do all that sketching and explaining. Thanks a bunch for all the effort. With all that info I should be able to precisely duplicate your battery tray. By reading your explanation it's obvious you're a DIY person at heart. Being an old industrial arts instructor it's obvious to me you've built thing before and know the intricacies of preforming radius bends, etc. Good eye also on why the notches in the side sections are there. I think you're correct in that observation and it can be seen in your last battery tray photo to allow clearance. A quick few measurements during construction of the tray, I'm sure, will answer that question. Thanks again for the excellent explanation! If you have any future questions concerning your '37 just let me know. Paul over'n out
  18. John, I hear ya. I'm doing the same thing that is to put the '37 back on the road, as close to original as I can get, as a runner, not a show car. Some pix here are the original pix I took before cleaning things up before restoration. I replaced my original steel brake line with a copper/nickel line since it can be bent with your hands without tools and was a whole lot easier to bend to the original curves. I took out the steel lines and just matched the curves on the workbench before installation. Worked quite well. I've added text to some of the pix but I'm sure you can figure it out without the text. If I can help I'll answer any questions you have. If you need any pix in the future I'll be happy to pass on anything I've done in the way of maintaining original specs. and what things look like before or after cleaning. I usually take pix of things before and after so I can remember how they go back together. Just a quick question here, did your '37 have an original cover for the timing mark access hole? If you can take some measurements of the battery tray I'd appreciate it. I only need these three in the last pix. Paul
  19. Hi John, I've got pix at home, I'm at public library right now, of my '37 6-cyl. 4-door touring sedan if that will do. I'll look them up tonight. I'm pretty sure you're correct about the lines travel but I'll double check tonight and add some pix tomorrow. Paul
  20. Super!!! John, seeing the underneath now really answers all my previous questions. I can see the slots and the support hangers, or whatever you call them, which give the box extra support for the weight of a battery. Thanks a bunch for the extra underneath shots. Those really helped! I think I can now reproduce what the original box looked like. Paul PS. I hope Yellowstone got the same snow Colorado recently got. We always have had plenty of snow there for downhill playing. Good luck doing some serious cross country!! Have a great time and thanks again!
  21. Sorry, John, I'm a little slow at responding but I've been skiing in Colorado and just got back. Thanks for taking the time and effort to take these pix!! I'm just a little confused trying to examine the pix. Are the two bent support rods over the edge on both sides going into any slots or are they just welded in place and hang over the top to hold the battery box up? Or maybe they're clips of some sort? I can't seem to make out how they work in the pix. Actually it looks like the front of the battery box is welded to the frame? My '37 4-door touring sedan doesn't have a bar going across the rods to hold/clamp the battery in place. Maybe they changed the battery box configuration between the 2-door and 4-door touring sedans? Does the bar holding up the rear side of the battery box have 2 slots in it? My front and rear support bars have 2 elongated slots in them and I was wondering if they were used in some way to hold up the battery box. Paul
  22. HI M., Well, that person did a great job at taking a pix for you. Your floor plate is pretty clean. My cover plate was over-coated on top anyway, with something they sprayed over the entire floor as a rust preventative coating and it appears original whatever it is. Thanks for getting at least those pix. As I said earlier I want to reproduce an original looking battery box the battery sits in. Is your battery box the original '37 box or do you think it was replaced sometime ago? I'd like to see it someday if that's possible. I understand it's in storage but if you could get a hold of a pix or two someday I'd appreciate it!
  23. Thanks M. but I have the battery's floor plate and it looks exactly like yours. I'm really interested in getting a look at the original '37 battery box the battery sits in.
  24. Thanks Gary, I did have a look a while ago, in my initial search, at Gary W.'s battery tray. His has bolt holes in the tray supports. Mine have two, 2 inch slots on both sides of the supports. Others have said Pontiac used these slots, at least on one side anyway, to hold short arms that stick through the slots of the battery tray. The other two slots on the other side may have been used for bolts. At least that would make sense since there is no reason for the slots because there's no reason to move the tray left or right between the supports. Anyway, I'll keep looking for an original '37 Pontiac 6 battery tray pix.
  25. HI M., No, haven't seen a pix of the tray yet. Can't really blame anyone for not wanting to remove their battery just to take a pix of the tray for someone else. I was hoping someone in the middle of a restoration would have taken a pix of their tray just to record it for a before and after record. I do it all the time. Makes it a lot easier later on to remember how everything goes back together. I check here regularly but nothing yet. Haven't given up hope yet!! Ha!
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