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Posts posted by kookie1

  1. #1  Well, as usual, I always learn things I didn't know from your posts.  I didn't realize it was possible to run tubeless radials on riveted rims.  I'm guessing it's a better handling ride than on the bias-ply, tubed Lesters I'm installing.  Grandpa lived on a farm surrounded by dirt roads.  Before I turned my rims into the powder coating shop I cleaned the rims of 70 years of mud and dirt.  That was a chore.  As I remember, and I could be wrong here, but I think I remember the rivets in the center well of the rim sat in a recess to be flush or slightly below the well surface.  That may have been done to remove the need for flaps?  With the recess and mating rivet seat, that may also be the reason why your radials don't leak air.  Just a thought.


    No, I'm not an Early Times Chapter member, though I've gleaned plenty of info off their website pages.  I have talked to the chapter's head in the past concerning other engine parts.  I may have his contact info in my files.   I'll contact you if I can't locate that info.  Thanks.


    #2  Yes, I've noticed those uneven clock position, fan blades.  Mine is of that type.  But I didn't know the reason for it until now.  I'm learning more every post of yours I read.


    #4  Oh, that's interesting, I had no idea that in the past they removed the fenders, nose and radiator in one piece.  Now that had to take more than one person to pull off successfully.  Since I work alone, that will not be an option!  Jdshott's approach is looking better all the time.

    Thanks for all the info, Bloo!

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  2. Thanks Jd for chiming in.  Yes, I think I remember reading that discussion long ago but gave up when they moved into after market fan alternatives.  I'm trying to stay original as much as possible.  I'll go back and read it again, thanks for the link.


    I'm not aware that the brake light switch has posts that rotate.  All the ones I've seen of this style have anchored posts.  But I suppose it's also possible if the wire's ring terminals loosens, the wires could rotate and do the same thing you were talking about as in shorting out.  I really don't know either.


    Also I'm pleased to read your experience with removing the radiator as I wondered about that as well contemplating a water pump removal.  You made some good observations to be concerned about when tackling the radiator removal.  When peering down between the radiator and fan, it looks like on my '37 they have changed the fan attachments to four bolts instead of what your '37 has.  According to the serial number, my '37 is from the later part of the year of manufacture.  My guess is they made the change to four bolts later in the year.   Anyway, I'm happy to hear it's possible to make the pump removal without taking the entire front off the car.


    No need to send pix as I can see what's needed to do, thanks to your experience, but thanks for the offer.

  3. I have a few questions I'd like answered from someone more knowledgeable than me.  I'm working on a '37 Pontiac 6 Touring Sedan, original 16" rims in good condition.  I'm having them powder coated this week anyway.


    #1   Does anyone use or recommend the use of flaps on the original riveted rims to cover the rivet seats?  I understand the purpose of flaps but wonder if anyone had any problems with the rivet seats and inner tubes?


    #2   I notice the other day the blades of my fan do not have the same twist.  That seems strange to me.  Is this normal?  I can't fathom anyone doing that to a fan purposely but again I'm learning many things while doing this restoration on grandpa's car so who knows?


    #3   Why is one post on the brake stop switch taller than the other post?   It never crossed my mind to wonder why, until just the other day realizing I had no idea.  Since they make the effort to construct them that way, there must be a good reason.


    #4   I need to get to the water pump and fan blade.  Is it possible to remove the hood and nose piece with grille without also removing the front fenders?  Or would it be possible to just remove the radiator and still have enough room to work from above?


    Thanks guys, in advance, for taking the time to answer!


  4. Well, I haven't been back here for some time this summer.  It's been so humid and hot up here in the north country that working in a non-insulated outbuilding has not been much fun.  Consequently I haven't had a chance to work on my brake system problem for awhile.  So to bring those who have taken their time to offer help up to date I'll try to keep it short.


    Yes, John, the brakes are done and all is well.  Thanks for your input including your experience as well.  Originally I couldn't understand why I could pump the brake pedal without it getting eventually stiff and hard to depress.  Well, first of all I found a few leaks.  Two were fixed with a little extra tightening since the copper nickel lines were brand new and hadn't been filled before.  Another two could not be fixed that way.  At first I thought my flare was faulty so I tried re-cutting the double flare but that didn't work.  Then I notice the dome (or whatever it's called) the flare seats against was damaged. Luckily after searching multiple auto parts shops, one shop found what looked like I needed in their back room and it was a perfect match.  That solved that problem.  The last leak was the connection at the master cylinder where that internal flare dome was also damaged.  Maybe that happened with the original steel brake line installation, who knows?  Anyway I fixed that leak, so no more leaks!  Hallelujah!!


    I had the drums turned and put new brake pads on the shoes months ago.  So now I adjusted all the shoes and then all of a sudden it dawned on me.   The reason I could depress the brake pedal with no resistance up and down (at the beginning of this post) is when I installed the shoes I turned the adjuster screw all the way in so it was easy to put the newly turned brake drums on.  I've since grasped the reason I could easily pump the pedal without building pressure was because the brake shoes could expand and contact inside the drums since they were not adjusted yet to the specified 0.10".  Duh!!!!  When that dawned on me I thought to myself, geez, you are such a dumb@ss!  So I apologize to Bloo and all those trying to help me in this post.  You had no idea what you were up against, but thanks again for giving me your best shot.

    And just a side note here, I've done brake shoes before and had no problems but these 30s brake systems with their two eccentric adjusters, what a pain in the @ss!  With feeler gauges and bouncing back and forth from one adjusting screw eccentric to anchor pin eccentric repeatly to get thing just right, geez, thank god they dumped that system for a better idea long ago.  I can't tell you how long I dinked around to get all four brakes just right, I could have built the car from scratch!  Ok, Ok, I'll quit and get off the soap box.


    And yes, 'keeping it short' didn't really work to well either!!


    Just wanted to thank Bloo, John and others for all their helpful input!



  5. Thanks for the suggestions, Russ.  I've always bleed from the farthest wheel cylinder first working back to the closest.  Come to think of it I hadn't even given it a thought to do the front wheels first.  My first thought was maybe I had honed the master cylinder too much but then ruled out that thought remembering how much I had to squeeze the rubber cup to get it in.  I'll give a few of your suggestion a go when I get another bottle of brake fluid.


    Grampa's 37 Pontiac 6 has given me a few sleepless nights but with the help of fellow 'real' mechanics I may finally get this puppy back on the road.


    Thanks again for taking your time to respond!

  6. I need a bit of help deciphering what I'm doing wrong with filling an empty system with brake fluid.
    I started filling the system with fluid at the farthest wheel cylinder from the master.  It took quite some time, with the help of another pumping the brake with me opening and closing the bleeder, until I noticed a leak at the front junction 'T'.  Ok, had to tighten a few connections to fix that.  But when fluid started appearing in the bleeder hose the pumping stopped moving fluid.  The system started with new brake lines, new hoses, honed master cylinder, honed wheel cylinders and I've double checked to make sure I had installed the new master cylinder kit in the correct order (it's so simple, only one cup to check is installed it the correct direction, a sixth grader to figure it out) but I can still pump the brake pedal and the fluid doesn't appear to move.  All connections and bleeders are closed and I can still pump the brake pedal up and down.


    I've never filled an empty system before but I've bleed cars plenty of times and when the line is filled and you close the bleeder you can no longer depress the brake pedal.  I assumed when each line is full I'd notice the strong resistance to pedal pressure.  So what am I missing?  I feel a bit stupid I can't determine  the cause of the problem.

  7. Thanks Jon for the suggestions to bending a new screen.   I'll remember those when it comes time.   They're a good idea.


    Great info on the short history of carb kits as well.   I learned a thing or two.   Makes sense when you consider all the little parts in a carburetor and all the different carbs.


    I'll keep you in mind for the future!   Thanks for taking the time to answer!

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  8. Well, I bought this Walker carb kit a couple of years ago off Ebay before I knew much about what I was getting into and knowing I would eventually get to the carburetor anyway.   Since I'm done overhauled the carb and found this kit missing small washers, gauges, screens, etc., I'm not very impressed with it but it's too late now.   I just didn't know any better back then.   Such is life, I guess.    Just a quick observation here Jon, but do you mean, "If you bought your kit from us" that the kits you sell don't include this screen either?   Just trying to figure out what is actually supposed to be in these carb kits.


    Thanks Bloo for taking those pix of your screen.   I think I can use your closeup of the screen with the penny and calculate, fairly close, to what the actual screen mesh size is.   That should eliminate the problem of trying to determinate what I should be looking for.    Thanks again for the extra effort!



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  9. Thanks for responding Bloo,


    I'll check with McMaster-Carr.     That's really fine for a mesh screen in the pump tube above the ball check.   It'll be trick curving the screen as well as bending a curved, 90° corner.   Should be fun!!


    Thanks for the help...can always rely on Bloo!!


    Edit:  Just went to McMaster-Carr and they have a ton of mesh screens.   I have no idea what mesh size to order.   Wish someone knew what size the mesh is in a carburetor!   I suppose I could order a sample kit but that isn't inexpensive either.   Do you think a carburetor kit seller would know the mesh size?   Just a thought.

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  10. I've overhauled my '46-'52 WA-1 carburetor with a carb kit.   Everything went fine until assembling the Climatic Control choke housing.  It looks like I'm missing what the Carter Service Manual calls the 'Piston Housing Strainer' at location 'J'.  By looking at the carburetor screws it appears the carb has been worked on before so I'm wondering if that strainer is a fine mesh screen someone forgot to replace in the choke housing.   I most likely can't purchase a replacement so I'll have to make my own.   Does anyone know where I could acquire some super fine mesh screen?    And how do you specify the 'finest' of the screen you want to purchase?


    Any help would be appreciated!

    Manual Pix.jpg

    My Choke  Housing.jpg

  11. Looks nice Russ!   Wish my block looked that clean.    A quick question tho, what is that strap for that runs from #5 spark plug over the exhaust manifold, is pinned to the throttle linkage pin on the intake manifold and goes down to somewhere for some reason?   Was that original?    Don't think I've ever seen one like that before.


    And one other question, what did you soak the carb in to clean it up like that?   I need to do that to mine one of these days.



  12. Hi Summershandy,


    Man, you've had some problems with that engine!    After reading about peoples warping problems I went right out, back then, to check if mine were warped since I hadn't bothered to notice when I removed the manifolds.   Thankfully they weren't.    I'll use anti-seize also on the studs.    I snapped two bolts that were rusted solid trying to remove the heat riser so I'm really into using anti-sieze where ever it looks useful.    The brass screw in the heat riser housing that holds the counterweight spring support bracket (or whatever it's called) was also rusted in tight.   Fortunately, it was brass and easy to drill out and re-thread with a tap.    The broken bolts in the intake manifold were no fun to drill out and took quite a while to do trying not to ruin my manifold.   Luckily all turned out well.


    Anyway, glad to hear you got your manifolds flat and level.    That alone can solve a ton of future problems.

  13. Hi Russ,


    Thanks for taking the time to answer!    You"re just the guy I was hoping would respond, one who's done it on his own car.   You've done some serious work on that '53 and it's obvious you have some skills, machining your own studs.    Looks great!!


    You answered my questions to a "T".    The manifolds are going back on without any Copper sealant use and 25 to 28 ft.lbs of torque is what I'll use.    And, as an added bonus, you unknowingly answered a question I had about those really hard to access manifold nuts.   It was tricky to get a wrench on them and make even an 1/8 degree rotation at a time.    I was wondering when I took them off how the heck I was going to get a torque wrench on them and to get an accurate reading as well.   Thanks for the idea of a 1/2 universal socket!    It'll make my time considerably easier!

  14. Thanks John and Bloo.    I want to keep the car as close to original as I can.   This will be the only piece that isn't original, well, original after my grandfather gave it up.   It's got a WA-1 carb from a '49-52 so I guess it isn't really, totally original but everything else is.    I guess I can live with that.    As they say, in this life we don't actually own anything, we're just custodians.


    Hope some other guys with more experience than I have can chime in on this manifold sealer question this weekend.

  15. Hi Bloo,


    No, I didn't find a choke stove cover.    I called as well as emailed several people from the catalog images you sent me but no luck.   I finally decided to make my own thanks to John Hess for the ruler image and you for the straight-on image.   I used those pix to create a drawing/pattern in a Word document so I could reduce/enlarge the image to fit the measurements John gave me.   It worked pretty well.     I cut out a piece of 1/8" steel plate for a fixture to bend the 20 gauge sheet metal over.    That was necessary because of the manifold's raised cast iron bosses around the bolt holes that hold the cover in place.   I'm pretty happy about the way it turned out.   I had to use 5/16" bolts because I had to drill out the original 1/4" screws in the manifold that were totally rusted in place.


    As far as the torque question goes, yes, the manifolds are already flat and even, no warping visible.   I've purchased grade 8, 1/8" thick washers as well.   They happened to be zinc plated which acts as a lubricant also when figuring torque values.    Are you aware of anyone using gasket sealant on the manifold gaskets before installation?    Any problems doing that?








    • Like 1

    I'm about to install my cleaned and painted manifolds with new gaskets but the engine studs and nuts are original.   I'm wondering what torque values I should be using on the 3/8" nuts.   I've read all about plain steel bolts of pre-40s cars stretching due to over tightening.    If I'm following the recommended charts, is 28 ft. lbs. enough for manifolds and should I be using anti seize on the studs?   The charts specify 30-35 ft. lbs. and a 15 to 25% applied reduction in torque if anti-seize is used?    And is it a good idea to use a light coating of 'Copper Spray-a-Gasket Sealant' on the manifold gaskets before assembly?    Any suggestions would be appreciated.  Thanks

  17. Great Bloo, I'd be grateful if you'd do that!    I have the CPA catalog but it's a no go there too.    I'm not a Early Times Chapter or Oakland Pontiac member either so I'd appreciate if you'd take the time to look!    I think you're correct in that Pontiac used this same choke stove cover for many years.


    Thanks a bunch!

  18. Well, I"m still in the need of a cover so I can put my manifolds back on the car.    I contacted Kurt and he doesn't have a choke stove cover and stated he's never seen one either.   So I called Joe Curtis in NC who also has parts and found out he passed away 2 years ago.  I check Ebay fairly often but nothing.  So now I'm wondering who else I could contact.   I''m running out of ideas.   Any help would be appreciated.


  19. Ok, thanks for the heads-up.     I'm at the public library now but I'll check into my '37 parts manual as well when I get home.    My '37 touring sedan 6 has a 1949-52 single barrel carb on it so I'm not sure how that compares to a '37's original WA-1 but that's something else I'll have to look into.    My carb is off the car right now waiting for a new gasket/parts kit job but I noticed it did have two carb gaskets under it.    There are two carb to manifold gaskets in the carb kit.     I've read somewhere that two were used to help reduce heat from the manifold.     Is that why they supply two carb. gaskets in the kits?


  20. Oh boy, thanks a bunch guys, those pix are better than I thought I'd ever get to see!     It's exactly what I needed since I want to keep as close to the original look as I can.    I'm an old, retired, shop teacher, emphasis on the 'old', so fabricating a copy shouldn't be too hard.    I blocked all the holes in the manifolds, sand blasted both and painted them with high temp manifold paint.    But I couldn't put them back on the car until I figured out what to do with this cover plate I didn't have.


    I original thought, from the drawing, that the furthest cover dimples or holes maybe rested on the further away bumps (about 14" apart) but now I can see, thanks John for the tape measure pix, how large the plate is and now figure those bumps are most likely remanent sprue holes from when they poured the cast iron to guarantee a full, complete casting.


    I do have another question.    My grandfather's car didn't have a 3.326 deflector either but it did have two carb. gaskets in place.   Guess I'll have to make another piece.   I would assume the deflector went between the gaskets.   Is that correct?    Also is the bend in that plate at 90 degrees?     I've views some web pix of that deflector, from the right side of the engine, that show the vertical part to be equally spaced on the left and right side of the carb.    But in the above exploded diagram it appears to be made to mostly extend to the front of the engine?    I don't think it's the viewing angle because of the oblique, exploded drawing or the different looking horizontal part on the right side of the carb hole.    Which is the correct position for this deflector?    Would you have any idea of the metal gauge of this piece?    Any measurements of the vertical part, length and width?


    Thanks guys, you're the best!!



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