edhd58
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Posts posted by edhd58
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Give me a quote. Shipped to me. 1942 Ford Fordor all clear glass, all glass except back window. Shipped to 42701 Elizabethtown,KY.
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Ready too order glass for my 42 Ford Fordor. Who has been used and what kind of results and service did you get?
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btt, one time only
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no longer for sale
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Whats the thoughts about whether the front seat cushion (bottom) springs for a station wagon will fit a Fordor seat frame. The seat springs I have need a LOT of work and I was thinking of replacing the springs assembly. I can find them for both the "Sedan Coupe" and the Station Wagon, but under the Fordor heading -- nothing is listed. The springs assembly sits on a frame and I am wondering if the Station Wagon seat spring assembly would fit the Fordor frame. My logic is that both the station wagon and the Fordor do not have folding seat backs.
Here is how the assembly is attached to the frames
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Just in case anyone wants to know. you CAN NOT put 42 Ford brake shoes on a 47 Ford brake backing plate with out modifying something. in addition you cant go the other way either, the pivot points are too different to allow this. I just found this out tonight.
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1942 ford Torque tube and wishbone assembly and a (supposed to be) 47 axle assembly. the pinion teeth in the rear end has been stripped and the rear end will need to be rebuilt. THERE ARE NO brake backing plates included. this is a pick up only item. I am 10 minutes from Fort Knox, KY
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Its been a while since I posted anything here. I've been working 55 and 60 hour weeks lately with not much time I felt like doing anything once I got home and ate supper. I will be getting this thing painted as soon as I get the rear end back end and the body shop says its ready, I now have 3 people lined up in case each one says they cant do it now.
If you may have looked on a couple other forums you may have noticed I tore the teeth off the pinion gear in the rear end. It took two tries but I got the correct gears from Speedway and got all the other parts from Mac's Auto Parts. I also decided to go with 3.54/1 gears in the rear instead of the stock 3.78/1 gears. I have been told this will help a lot on cruising with modern traffic when I have to.
I couldn't find anyone local to overhaul the rear end so I had to do it myself. It really isn't hard, just time consuming with all the put togethers and take aparts.
I decided to leave the wishbone in the car and only swap rear axle assemblies. It took a while but I have the axle assemblies swapped but have yet to get the brake drums on, It seems asbestos brake linings WILL absorb moisture and cause them to swell a little, they were stored in a barn and not wrapped in any way. They are also the brake linings that were on the original axle, and look like at least 50 years old. The are still on the backing plates that were in the car when I took that rear end out because it had bad ring gear teeth.
I am now wondering if this is a weak point in the rear end, two out of two rear ends fail!! BUT i was attempting to bark the tires when I messed up the 2nd rear end. I have new brake shoes and will install them on both side, I also have new drums for the original hubs (under drum hubs) but found I have to get the studs out because they are the "swedged" bolts. I am going to look and see if I can update to new bolts that do NOT require the drums be "swedged" on the hubs. I think swedged is the correct term. Anyway, the bolts have shoulders that have to be swollen and hold the drum in place and takes a special tool to do that and another tool get the drum off the hub.
One picture is the original 42 rear end which has zerk fittings to grease the hub bearings, the others are simply that same assembly disassembled and reassembled. The later rear axle assembly does not have those zerk fittings. That is one reason why i overhauled the earlier rear axle assembly
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This is a picture of an uncle and his wife, I am wondering what the car is?
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well well well. just got a phone call from speedwaymotors.com and turns out they do have the correct set for my car. someone decided to go pull some drawings and do some checking and they do have what I need. the first person I talk to this morning could not believe that the set I purchased was on what they called a garage sale item at a greatly reduced price. the set I got was on what they call a display whatever that is and they wonder if it wasn't modified and wouldn't work and that's why it was on display.to make a long story short going to cost me an extra $100 because the actual price was higher for the correct gear set but at least I will have the correct gear set.
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- I spent my 30 minute lunch break on the phone with Speedway. Turns out (they say) I have the correct parts from them. I told them over and over they aren't the same as the original parts. " you have the correct parts, we've been doing this for over 10 years and never had a complaint before" , and NO THEY DO NOT HQVE BEARINGS TO FIT IT. They are going to accept the parts back as a return, but it still doesn't get me closer to fixing mine. any help will be greatly appreciated. I'll post pictures later of what I have
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When it rains it pours. I got the correct bearing race in the mail yesterday. got my self into the garage last night to assemble the pinion assembly. Started to put the first bearing on the pinion and it just dropped on with an 1/8" of clearance. Needless to say I was upset. First a wrong bearing race and now maybe a wrong pinion???? The gears are from Speedway, everything else from Mac's. It'll be a phone call at lunch today to see if I can figure out what's going on. The new pinion has a different shaft diameter than the original.
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Did they maybe change the water pump pulley depth so that if you use the later pulley with the later pump things will align? In 42 Ford used a double pulley on the pump but in 46 to 48 they use a single pulley. I am looking at going to a 12V generator with single pulley so I too am looking at pulley depths. Just asking cause I don't have a clue either.
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thats sounds intrisuing. I'd love to see the finished product
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Thanks for the info, turns out I found another way to do it. Attached are pictures of what happened. To make a long story short, after hooking up the puller and tightening as tight as I could get it, I heated the housing and after a good 3 minutes of hi setting propane heat the thing popped and jumped and scared the begeebees out of me, but came loose. One picture is removing the Pinion gear/bearing assembly, another is removing the pinion pilot bearing, then there is a picture of the tool I used.
Then, just as things were looking up I get all my parts out to maybe start reassembly and lo and behold I have the wrong pinion bearing cup, the one they sent is for a Model B or A Ford which i about a half inch shorter than mine, so now I have to send this one back and wait for the correct one.
I got the tool from Advance Auto Parts
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well this morning I have been to every auto repair shop machine shop and person referred me to that I can find. Everybody has said the same thing when they see this rear end, what in the heck is that thing. I have been told I will have to make my own tool to remove this pinion assembly. if anyone knows where the original Ford tool is to remove the pinion assembly please let me know. Or if anyone has any ideas on the best way to make a press for this let me know
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The banjo rear end, in piece form, lol
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My Banjo is slightly out of tune, lol. But seriously folks, I have 2 rear ends, this one mostly disassembled and the one in the car. The one in the car is a later model, 1947 I think. Brake shoes are a little different and no zerk fitting to grease the rear hub bearings. The speedo gear housing is in a slightly different location too. The one disassembled is the original, and I will actually be kind of glad to get it back in. I dont know why I feel that way. T he center section is now soaking in diesel to get the paste of the rear axle grease out of it. and my parts should be here tomorow. Once I get this taken care of it will be off to the paint shop.
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Does anyone near the Louisville, KY area know some one (professional) near the Louisville, KY area that will rebuild a banjo rear. I have called several businesses and no one want to touch it. I have talked to a machine shop and they know what I have, and will do all the press work but they also do not want to rebuild it because of time involved. I am leaning towards doing it myself, and having all the press work done at the machine shop. I am just wondering if someone knows someone in the area, that way if I need help I can call someone close to maybe have them look at what is going on.
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David, Thanks for the input. I decided to just rebuild the one I have. it eill only cost a few more $$ than used aand I'lll know all the parts are new and not weakened from age.
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Thank you Bleach. Yeah, I bought a used one last time, and I just don't know if it was weak or what. Like you say I know after this it should be bullet proof. I just ordered everything, just over $600 of stuff. Gear set from Speedway, on sale and saved $50, everything else was in a kit from Mac's. I stepped up to a higher 3.55 gearing, I figure this will make it a little more cruise friendly. Plus as torquey (is that a word) as this engine is I think it will be fine even on the lower end. It had 3.78 gears so its not a huge jump I don't think. Crap, as I am writing this I realize I need to order the E-brake cable and misc stuff that goes with that. Oh well it's not like I didn't need other stuff too, I better go order that stuff while I am thinking about it.
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Have an update, well kinda. This thing has taken so many turns for the worst. The paint when all was said and done, turned out to be 2 completely different shades of Blue. Good new there is that the paint supplier replaced the paint and chemicals I had purchased, a 1/2 gallon of color + stuff. I went ahead and had a full gallon of color made up so I can guarantee the whole thing, assembled, will be painted at the same time so it will all be the same color.
My stepson works for a NIssan dealership and talked to the collision center boss and he agreed to paint it since there will be no body work done. That WAS supposed to happen this next week.
NOW, more bad news, I drove it a little way down the road to a friends house, just cause it was a really nice day, I had JUST gotten the generator converted to 12 volts and it was charging correctly and wanted to drive it at speed a little. As I was leaving his house to return home I attempted to take off when something POPPED loud in the rear end, 2nd time for this. Turns out, again, I have broken pinion and ring gear teeth. The rear in it now is a used I got a couple years ago, because the original had the same issue.
Now, kinda sorta good news, I never got rid of the original rear end, I am going to tear it down and see about having it rebuilt. If I have to much trouble finding someone I may attempt it myself. It doesn't look too hard and I do have access to a press with ability to make a specialty tool or two if I need to. I told my wife you never get rid of anything till the project is done.
40 Ford interior
in Ford and Mercury - 1932 to 1953
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please let me know who you got the kit from and how installation goes. I am trying to decide on Cartouche kit vs local upholsterer doing my 42 Ford Fordor. Eddie