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I will be replacing the Sears Allstate tires on the old girl tomorrow. I was wondering if anyone knows how to decipher the code on the tires to determine when they were manufactured. I am just curious.

okay guys lets start over. he has taken the intake off, looked down the beast and seen nothing. Quote "Because, I have straight taken the intake off, sat on top of the motor, and looked for over 2hr in each runner (yea, seriously, this happened and it sucked... No comfortable position whilst sitting on the top of an engine) to see if the Allen key would be obviously sitting on top of the valve, or get wedged and not enter the combustion chamber. But, I cannot find a d*** thing." unquote now i don't know much abut flat 8s so i find a pic on Ebay. it looks to me like anything in the intake is on a downhill run to the cylinder. Let me know if i am wrong. Depending on the size of the wrench couldn't it easily get partially into a cylinder without getting all the way in? Now, back to his statement. He cant find a thing in any runners? What else could be causing these same symptoms, since he has had the intake off and looked in both and cant find anything anywhere?

I dont know how I did it, but I did get some Epoxy Primer on some of my stainless. Anybody know a safe way to get epoxy primer off stainless that is safe in your average garage??

Thank you Matt, both for not making feel like i was an idiot for going bias, and for liking the black walls. My wife thinks its too plain. It'll look a little different with the new trim rings when they come in. Speaking of trim. does any one know how to get epoxy primer off stainless?? I am not sure how I did it but I got some epoxy over spray on some of the stainless.

I can't see how an allen wrench in the intake will not get sucked into and between a valve and head. Even worse scenario is it actually is small enough to go into the cylinder where it will rattle around until it gets just right as to get pinned between the piston on the up stroke and the head. and God only knows what will happen when the wrench snaps into pieces with sharp pointy edges and keeps getting banged around by the piston. Find someone with a bore scope and look down the intake and into each cylinder. If that's not possible, I believe I'd be tearing it down just to feel satisfied I wont be destroying a good engine. The cost will surely be worth it.

Thanks, Stan, that thought had never crossed my mind. There is a local (hour away) shop that does a lot of work on this older stuff., I'll see if they have that ability and knowledge.

Thanks for the input. 60FlatTop Iam assuming you are saying those items are for sale, if I had known yesterday early thou may have made a sale. I did however already order tires and tubes. Free shipping from Summit racing buying them off eBay,saved almost $100that way. They are Coker classic Blackwall bias 600x16 tires and tubes. Thanks to everyone that responded i really do appreciate it.

Thanks everyone for the opinions and advise. One opinion given me was buy "newer" 15 inch rims so I can put whatever I want on the car. What i have found is newer rims aren't made the same as 42 rims and the look wont be the same. Plus I am having a heck of a time finding 4. Anyway, to make a long story short, I have decided to go Coker Classic black wall bias tires at $136 each + tubes. the savings will allow me to do a few other things. Thanks again for all the thoughts and opinions.

Its been 4 summers now, I don't have heat in the garage. Its a "just gonna have fun with it" project, so while I've been working on it I was not about to attempt a PROFESSIONAL restoration. I don't have the $$$ or the expertise. I've been lucky so far asI was able to find all NOS parts or OEM reproduction parts. I am about to get it street legal I am just deciding many of my budget $$ i am going to spend on tires.

actually i think 700-16 is what i found. it will fit, but its still a bias tire. i am looking at all the modern tire sizes with a calculator and seeing what will fir the original rim. so far the best suggestion has been go to a tire store and tell them what i have and want and let them do the leg work, they know who they can get what from etc.

I have a 42 Ford Fordor. I a, ready to order tires and WANT to go with radials but the cost after tires, tubes, Shipping and install is going to be between $1300 and $1400. Bias will be roughly half that. It will be a once in a while driver, I am working 6 days a week every other week and 10 hour days. Can anyone justify the extra cost and what is your reasoning?

I love seeing this as it is being done. Your attention to what seems the smallest detail is awesome. I have followed this post for a long time, and it has made me wish this caliber of restoration was more affordable. I know time and expertise are costly and I completely understand it. I am jealous of the person having this done, I wish it was within my means to do it as well. Again, your work and craftsmanship is outstanding, that's one lucky car to have your guys restoring it.

Posted on "Our Cars and Restorations" too. I am having a terrible time getting the vent window "Bob Drake" seals and vent window frame align after all is installed. It seems like the seal that goes into the channel is taller than the original. I have shaved both that part and some of the seal where the upper pivot is, there was a big hump there. Any suggestions??

I have been attempting to install new Bob Drake "molded to fit" vent window seals in my 42 Fordor. It AINT working. I can get the seals in the channels but the part that sets in the channel seems to be taller than the channel, and once installed the vent window won't come close to closing. I am wondering if anyone else has had this problem, AND any suggestions on a cure? okay, been at it for an hour this morning, no luck. I have shaved some rubber off the part that goes into the channels. and shaved some off the area where the top pivot is, it had a nice size hump before. Now the problem is, its like the rubber is just too tall. the vent window frame hits all along the front of the vent window frame. it starts hitting at the turn where the window bottom makes the curve, up to about half way up. then at the top edge, maybe because its all out of whack, i have a good 1/4 inch gap between the window frame and the rubber.. I am at a loss for what to do.

Thanks, I hadn't given this much thought. But you have an excellent point.

I have what may be a silly question. I have a lot of old parts removed by my interior guy. Clips, pins and those special trim piece retainers that according to him are only used once. the part I am talking about is a ribbed nail that goes through an acorn looking piece in a hole in the body. Once the nail goes through the acorn looking piece the ribbed nail holds the trim in piece. Is there any reason to hold on to these nail/retainer pieces, will anybody ever have a use for them?? He used new Ford trim clips to hold everything in place. See I said it was a silly question.

Dang it, I took lots of pictures and made lots of notes. Somehow though my notes don't tell me all I need t know. Can any one tell/show me how the headlight wiring on a 42 Ford Fordor is routed under the hood and from head light to headlight. My notes say it runs under the radiator support. but the clips I have in the baggie marked "headlight wiring under radiator" just don't make sense today. I did not take pictures of the headlight wiring, guess I thought at the time that it was so simple I didn't need pictures. Guess I have that dreaded CRS. Ed

Got it back from the upholsterer Sunday, been working on it almost every waking minute since. I am happy with how it turned out, even if it did take a month longer than expected. getting the dash back together and almost ready to put it in. i have installed an electric wiper motor, but I need new wiper towers the old ones are seized solid.

Do you know where a fellow can get the rear quarter fixed window seals for a 42 Ford Fordor?

WOW talk about a topic going way off course.

Can anyone tell me how to remove the head of the ignition toggle. i want to replace the on/off plate and the toggle head.

Thanks for the info Tom, Can't wait to see some pics Walker. your pics may change my mind. I haven't committed to anything yet.

Here is how it looks like mine is going to go. Gonna get the hard-board patterns, headliner and hopefully the visor covers from Cartouche, Looks like I am going ti use the upholsterer close to me. Talked to a guy last night that has had the upholsterer I have been talking to do several cars. He said he's been very pleased with all his work. Around $5k for the interior top to bottom installed and the seats and panels will be custom made and seat frames repaired.

cadillacdatabase.com/dbas_txt/Cad05-12.htm I found this, don't know if it helps.

just as Walker is doing I will have a professional install mine. 19tom40, are you saying a LeBaron-Bonney kit is less user friendly than a Cartouche kit, thus needing more detailed instructions? The installer I talked to wont even talk price until he has the kit and the car in front of him to price it. So it makes me wonder if the LeBaron kit is going to be more $$$ to have it installed too.