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About Lincoln

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    Junior Member
  • Birthday 08/22/1944
  1. Check the ID plate on the fire wall. My 30 give the valve clearance on that plate.
  2. Has any one figured out what make and model this car is ? From a distance it looks like there are many similarities to a Franklin. The similarities are 1) the sheet metal around the door window, 2)the belt line extending along the cowl, 3) the visor and visor bracket, 4) the hub cap looks like a 30, 31, 4) the beading on the front and rear fenders on the out side role, the trim on the running board, and the spare tire lock. That is my observation but not a definite answer.
  3. I am curious. How did you manage to remove the head with out removing the cylinder? The original nuts take an 11/16s wrench and the modern replacement nuts take a 9/16s wrench. There is no room to get the wrench in there. What did you use for a wrench? I am not qualified to give any advice but did you heli-coil the studs on the exhaust side of the heads, I read that in the Franklin tec-section.
  4. When I do not have the specs I always believe in "Match Existing". I was thinking kinda like a ford with number one marker on the distributor cap. I have two 1030 franklins, one is my parts car. I traced number one wire on the parts car back to the cap. When you look under the hood at the distributor , if the spring clip on the out side that holds the cap on is 6 o-clock and the one next to tho block is 12 o-clock number one is at 9 o-clock on the parts car and at between 10 and 11 o-clock on the other car. I talked to Jeff today and he told me the same, number one can be any where around the
  5. On a 1930 Franklin. Were does number one spark plug wire plug into the distributor cap. Neither my 1930 Instruction book or Parts Catalog shows this.
  6. Lincoln


    Mikewest Screw on type. Lincoln
  7. Lincoln


    I have two pistons from two different cars. Both pistons measure, with calipers, about 3.470 and both cylinders measure 3.50. What do the markings tell us on the top of the piston? Both have a small mark, like a proof mark, that looks like a closed horse shoe shaped circle with a line running long way through the center. One has a large 51 stamped on it and a smaller .0015. The other has a large 50 stamped on it with a smaller .0025 and between those the two stamping sizes is the number 3 in a heaver stamp. This one is out of number three cylinder so could this be a stamp the mechanic used to
  8. Don't force it , Get a bigger hammer. I laid the jug on a 4x6, inserted a 2x4 in the cylinder, warmed the head up with a blow torch, and tapped it off. It did not take much heat, just hot to the touch and and it came right off with a few taps with a large ball pean hammer.
  9. Kinda like giving your car enough rope and it will hang itself. Back to serious the head is not on that tight so it should pull back on easily with the head bolts.
  10. What is the proper procedure for removing the head from the cylinder and replacing it back on the cylinder on a 1930 Franklin. My 1937 Chilton Flat Rate and Tune Up Manual on page 383 reads - quote- " If head is heated in boiling water, it may expand sufficiently to allow removal by hand". I have never removed a head before and I do not want to learn things the hard way.
  11. Lincoln

    Fuel Pump

    The answer to my question still has not been answered--How far does the rod suppose to protrude , max. & min., to begin with? What are the engines specifications on this?
  12. Lincoln

    Fuel Pump

    Does any one know what the specifications on how far the fuel pump push rod protrudes from the side of the block at it's minimum and it's maximum extension on a 1930 Franklin? Also what is the specifications given for the free play and the maximum stroke of the push lever inside of the fuel pump?
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