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Everything posted by BillDC

  1. Semi-period picture from one of Dad's high school road trips in his 1919 9B. This is the same car my brother Jim drove on his 9,000+ mile road trip in 2018.
  2. I could create a 'Period Photos' section on the club website if folks could send me enough images of interest. Problem with FB is that the images are kind of a one time viewing option as they roll down and out of sight in relatively short time. The club website would be easier to browse. If you have a caption or story, even better. Send photos to the Gmail address: Rivendellracing or message me from this forum. Cheers, Bill Eby
  3. BillDC

    Gas tank

    There is a fellow here in Virginia who I believe has made tanks for other Franklins. Used to work ar White Post. His name is Thetan Ogle, phone 540-three zero three-7377. Bill
  4. Hi All, In our continuing efforts to keep the club web site as helpful as possible, it now contains the ability to search the ACN's and FSS's by article or topic. This is now available on the Members Only page in the Publications box at the top. Big thanks to Roy Canfield who updated the Index in a way that made it easy to use as the basis of a search engine, and his index is still available on the web as an additional excellent resource. Search on a topic, article name, author, person, or whatever. The search will list the article and clicking on the link will take you to the issue, and
  5. Hi, Does anyone know a source for BUDA engine bearings, and/or out of production Federal Mogul Bearings. I'm looking for part number 8880 SB (code on the back of mine are 8880 SB FW DW STD. My clearances look OK, and the journals OK, but the bearings are pretty torn up, so I'd like to replace them. Thanks, Bill Eby 202-four-one-five-3037
  6. Hi All, The service vendors, merchandise vendors, parts vendors and general references on the Franklin Club web site (other than the specific ads posted by members) have not been updated or reviewed for quite a while. These are on the FORSALE tab under parts, services & vendors, and merchandise, as well as on the TECH tab. Does anyone have any suggestions of any vendors that we are missing and should be put up on the web to help us all out, or vendors that are listed that are no longer relevant? Let me know and we will update the website to keep it up to date for our members and other
  7. Hi, Does anyone have a source or go-to guy for spring pivot bolts (series 12B)? Do you have to have new ones made, is there some old stock, or can a machine shop build up worn bolts to original diameters? I am working on ending front end wabble, so I put a big herken wrench on all four joints on the front springs at the pivot points and got a little movement on one pivot. I pulled the bolt and it is out of round by approximately .020. Is that enough to create wabble? I suspect that that particular bold was not tight, due to the fact that I could tap it back and forth before taking off th
  8. Hi. I am posting this ad for Dean Diefenderfer. He is looking for 2 window regulator lift channels for his 1925 series 11A . Also, the windshield seal that mounts into a groove on the body around the windshield frame . Email Dean at dcdiefenderfer@aol.com if you can help or provide a lead. Thanks, Bill
  9. Folks, The following was set to the FSS editor. Thought I would put it up here to get some eyes on it before his ad appears in the FSS. Let me know if you can help and I will forward you Victor's email address. Bill Eby The motor of my 1925 11A sedan has suffered a catastrophic failure which leaves me needing a replacement cylinder block (crankcase). Would you kindly let me know if it possible for me to place a quuarter page advert in the next issue of FSS in the hope that I might find someone who has a block that might be for sale. I am, of course, happy to pay the appropriate fee. Bes
  10. Teresa's email is TERESA CARVER <carvertd@gmail.com>
  11. I know this is late info, but the club received this note and so far there haven't been any takers. If you are interested, contact Carver below: Subject: Re: seeking information on a potential 1913-18 Franklin sedan Dear Mr. Harrison, My name is Teresa Carver. I am Area Coordinator of Antique Cars for the Midwest Old Settlers and Threshers Organization in Mt. Pleasant, Iowa. I have a group who is wishing to recreate a period photo that was part of their 50th anniversary celebration, and they have requested our assistance. However, I do not have a lead on the forefront auto of the pi
  12. Hey Matt, Can't offer any advice on your question, I am sure somebody will have the answer for you soon. Just wanted to say I look forward to seeing the progress, and great to hear that things are coming together. Have fun. Bill Eby
  13. Hi Jim, The Franklin web site has the following info. QUESTION: HYD BRAKE TUBING Hi: After reading the latest FSS, I am more confused than ever about replacing Franklin brake lines. I replaced mine in the 12B last year with Cunifer brake line material. I flared everything with single flares just like the original copper. I had no problems at all making the flares, and there have been no problems at all with the braking system. Soon after finishing that project, I read the article in Skinned Knuckles about installing Cunifer brake lines. The article said the flares should not be single fares,
  14. Here's some info from Dad Bill Eby : In the early 1940's the only tires I could buy for my 9B was well worn used tires from auto salvage yards. I got lots of practice changing tires on snap ring type rims. In this case practice does not make perfect. But I have one suggestion in addition to what is already said. Buy yourself a tool that keeps the valve stem in control. It is essentially a short length of flexible metal wire with a cap on one end that you poke through the rim stem hole and screw it fast to the end of the valve stem before completely sliding the tire onto the rim. The othe
  15. Hi Bob, How about something to do with gauges and/or switches. How difficult is it to fix, say a gas gauge (electric) or ammeter, or oil level gauge? Or is this the territory of strictly pros? How about ignition or light switches? How easy is it to fix them? How about how to install seat belts for folks who want them? Or how about someone to talk about insurance - advantages/disadvantages of various kinds/companies? Bill
  16. My sister has contributed the following alternative that comes from an 1883 treatise written to provide helpful instructions for the surveyors of the public domain. Along with surveying instructions it contains information on outfitting, etc. "The following is a cheap and simple process for rendering tents, wagon-covers, etc., water-proof, without stiffening them : Dissolve soft soap in hot water, add a solution of sulphate of iron (copperas). The sulphuric acid combines with the potash in the soap, and the oxide of iron is precipitated with the fatty acid, forming in soluable soap. Wash an
  17. I would like to follow up on this thread. My 1928 Victoria Brougham roof is not waterproof in a hard rain. It does OK in a light rain, but a heavy or prolonged shower soaks the fabric through and water starts to drip onto the rear passengers. I am pretty sure it is not a leak or tear, but is soaking through the fabric. It appears to have been coated with something at one point in its life, but not sure with what. I admit that I have not done a lot of research - hence my question to the Franklin community, who has a good idea what to put on it? I have found the following options, and there may
  18. Scott, Thanks for your reply. Why the counter man did not tell me there were two choices of replacement bearings for the numbers in the parts manual I don't know. But he is going to get a chance to tell me. The method for aligning the transmission with the engine is described on page 73 of the Series Nine Instruction Book. And the tools for doing it are described on Factory drawings 26802, 3, 5 and 6. Attached is a photograph we took after installing the tool I made. It's not as pretty as described in the drawings but it did the job. We had to shim the transmission mounting a littl
  19. Early this year we tore the transmission apart on my 9b Franklin because one of the bearings was noisy. It bugged me and I broke my policy of "Don't fix things that are working" Not only did we replace the noisy bearing as long as we had it apart we replaced all five with new angular contact ball bearings. I live in a part of the country where automobile hill climbing is not a necessity and the transmission worked OK while driving around here. Then I took the car to the Trek. It would not stay in second gear on those steep New York hills. It would slowly push the lever out of the indent and fi
  20. Bob, OK, thanks. Someone called this summer and didn't leave a name or number asking about Zeniths on 28 Victorias. Hopefully he will call back. I am no expert on plugs, but the last Franklin club newsletter (Franklin Service Station) had an article on plugs, and if I understand the chart correctly, the W-95D plugs are the hottest of all the options for 7/8" plugs. Also according to the newsletter, one would only run hot plugs in our Franklins if you do mostly slow speeds, easy, low rpm driving.
  21. Bob, Did you call me this summer asking about Zenith carb? My 28 Victoria had one on when I bought it. Started and ran great, but no accelerator circuit, so after a few years I changed over to a Carter BB-1. That works better. Original T-2's are no longer available (they were pot metal and if they haven't disintegrated they soon will in a big ball of fire.) So no way to go back to original anyway. Good luck. Bill Eby
  22. You should hear Dad tell stories about how hard it was for him with his 9B (12V) franklin in the 40's when the whole world was driving 6 volt cars. He could not buy a new battery, so had to go to a battery factory and get his old one rebuilt. Also had to run his headlights in series with 6v bulbs because he couldn't buy 12v sealed beams (sealed beams?? that is another story)...
  23. So on Dad's 9B, with all the wires in a metal tube, is there a recommended wire that eliminates, or minimizes crossfire and/or leakage. In the dark there are sparks flying all over the place off that tube. I assume cross firing is not that big an issue, but hate to lose firepower if the wires are leaking a lot to the tube. Current wires are rubber with a cooper core. Do we even need to worry since it seems to run fine now. My race car-driving brother shutters at the thought of all the wires crammed that close together (haha). Bill Eby
  24. Planning on tearing apart Dad's and would like a spare or spare for parts in case we screw it up. Thanks, Bill 202-415-3037
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