Scott Bonesteel

San Diego.

Here's what I started with and, as you can see, the lip on the side of the rumble seat lid just stops (needs to so that the lid can swing closed). Any help you can provide will be appreciated, thanks.

Getting to the rear portion of my 34 PE convertible coupe, when the rumble seat lid is closed there is still what I would consider a significant gap between the lid and the rear portion of the body. The sills around the front and side of the lid clearly seal and drain towards the rear of the car. However, there is nowhere for the water to run to once it gets all the way to the rear of the rumble seat lid. There must have been some sort of lip, tube or other drain system to catch this water, not to mention what comes in through the seam itself. My convertible was pretty rough when I got it but basically rust free except for where this rear portion of the body is concerned--obviously was leaking for a long time because the floor pan at the rear is rusted out. No problem for me to patch the floor pan but I want to solve this problem with the drainage. I'm in Southern California so we don't get much rain, but simply washing the thing would put 1/2 gallon of suds and water into the rear of the body. Can anyone provide me with a photo or two of a 34 Mopar rumble seat car showing how this was handled originally? I can fabricate but if somebody has the roached out remnants of a rumble seat car with this portion still intact I would be interested in purchasing. Thanks!

Wow, that red 69 Firebird is an overhead cam 6, not seen very often. Thanks for sharing, great variety of cars.

From 'Punch Drunks', 3 Stooges short film, one of my favorites because it features a 34 Plymouth convertible coupe, which has been driven off the road by a damsel in distress: She: I'm in a terrible dilemma! Mo: Yeah, I don't like these foreign cars either!!

Couple of photos as installed: Squared off gauges/glove box is 34 Dodge, oval ones 34 Plymouth, both take the same top rail, although IMHO it looks best in the Plymouth because the rounded edges match the gauges/glove box better. Again note that this does NOT fit the open cars (convertible coupe).

1934 Plymouth and Dodge top dash rail. Hole is for the windshield that cranks out. Closed cars only. SMB

I agree with broker-len that windlacing was used around the door opening. It is still available from most upholstery suppliers/shops and is basically a rubber foam rod covered in material. It is typically not attached to the door itself but is tacked under the edge of headliner and door pillar material. On 33 and 34 Plymouths and Dodges there is also a 'reveal', recessed area on the bottom inside of the door where a circa 2 1/2" rubber piece is clipped to the bottom of the door itself, extending below the bottom of the door circa 3/4" that is flexible enough to seal the bottom of the door where it adjoins the door sill. I think these are made by Steele and other suppliers but they can be easily fabricated from flat rubber stock, circa 1/8" thick. See the attached photo of a 33 door for sale elsewhere on this forum and you can see where the rubber seal is installed, holes for the clips being visible. Runs the length of the bottom of the door and then turns up the front curve of the suicide door about 4". Not sure if the PA has this but if so it probably just runs along the bottom of the door if so. Not home now but will shoot you a picture of one installed on one of my 34s if interested.

Looks like a 33 PD convertible coupe. Not a 32 because that year had a windshield post that was part of the body. Doesn't look like a 34 because the door top garnish molding is thin, 33 style rather than the wider 34 style. Can't see the front of the inside door panel which would tip it off, the winder for the vent window would be seen (which doesn't exist on the 33 PD Plymouth). Could also be the equivalent 33 Dodge convertible coupe. Only other potential is an early 30s Chevy convertible which had a similar windshield post. My vote goes to the 33 Plymouth PD convertible coupe.

Assuming this is running its original artillery wheels, this would be a 34 or 'first series' 35. I believe the 33s all had wire wheels with smaller hubcaps. In addition, it is running a 34 rear bumper, tapered at the end, as opposed to the squared off end found on the 33s. Great graphics on the side and those rare but somewhat anachronistic carriage lamps. Finally, a 33 would be a HCL and this would be a 34 KCL, as it is mounted on the long, 119" wheelbase.

Here is the 34 PE Plymouth Convertible Coupe drawing from the original sales brochure and you can see that the reveal is painted a different color. Also shows the windshield in folded position.

That 'reveal' on the body was painted a contrasting color, mostly to match up with the convertible top. Tops from the factory were always a light canvas color. Note that the 34 PE Plymouth was not a 'roadster' as it had roll up windows in the doors, what the Ford guys call a 'cabriolet'. What differs from the Ford cabriolets is that the Plymouth windshield folds down for a complete 'topless' experience. The knobs located at the base of the windshield posts can be loosened and the posts, along with the windshield, fold down. Like the rest of the 34 PE and PF Plymouths, the windows in the doors had both roll up windows and quarter vent windows. With both windows in the closed position, a lever on the window frame can be moved, which allows both the vent and the regular window to be wound down into the doors. Great original photo!

These are 34s, not 35-36. Center on 34 is two-piece and the hubcap snaps into the outer piece with clips on the caps themselves. The 35-36 is a single-piece center, with clips riveted onto the outer side to clip to the hubcaps, which have no clips. If you look on the inside piece on the 34s (from the outside) there is often '34' stamped into the steel center, between the lug holes. Wheels are usually 4x16, which is stamped on the inside of the rim.

Another wheel failure to be aware of is one I have seen on 34 Mopar artillery rims, which have a tendency to crack around the bolt holes, circular cracking just outside of the ridge on the inside of the rim. I have seen this with stock bias ply 600-16 tires and with radials. Managed to catch this on my PE sedan during a routine check and have seen it on multiple swap meet rims. The 35 artillery wheels, which look basically the same with the hubcaps on, don't seem to have this problem, but they are one-piece centers as opposed to the 34s, which are two piece. Accordingly, I now run 35 rims on my 34s.

The Plymouth Club Judging Standards for the 33 and 34 convertible coupes say the rear window should be 6" x 24". Bare frames show up in that size from time to time on ebay, etc. SMB

A few more, again, not my car but is a 33 convert.

Not my cars but these photos might help. 33 Plymouth convertible coupes. Have top irons if you need photos of those as well. SMB

From the guys at Iron Trap Garage...SMB

Just a note in passing: Those caps will fit but they are car caps. There is a long discussion on this topic elsewhere in this forum. Truck caps are similar but do not have the raised section or the < and >. There is a line surrounding the lettering, pointed on either end. See attached. A little tougher to find but still out there. Good luck.

The wheels in that picture are '12-hole' which I believe are 17", not 16". The 16" ones have 10 holes.

Looks like they are restored but see my posting from today in 'Not My Car' autos for sale, two 1932 CP8s. SMB

See attached, estate sale in La Mesa California, just east of San Diego. Not much info beyond pictures, look like nice cars, I don't have enough garage space. Starts tomorrow, sorry for the late notice but I just saw. https://www.estatesales.net/CA/La-Mesa/91941/2854566

My guess is they are for a boat since each 'set' is marked green and red for, respectively, starboard and port.

On the keyed handle, although you seem to have done some of this, look for the oldest lock and key place you can find, usually in the 'old part of town'. Those folks typically have the staff that have been around long enough to have seen it all. Not in your area but what I found was ABC Lock & Key in San Diego (CA, not Texas) where I am located. They were able to re-key an outside locking handle for my 34 Dodge panel, which has basically the same lock as your 33. They also were able to re-key some 34 Plymouth Yale Omega 'bent key' locks, even had a couple of boxes of uncut keys on their wall, which has key blanks going back into the teens. These guys are fantastic but are getting old and last time I went by there the store was closed (but still there and stocked). Must be somebody like that in Texas. https://www.yelp.com/biz/a-b-c-lock-and-key-shop-san-diego

I have used a couple of these replacement keepers--they fit and work really well.