Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Dunc126

  1. Hi Jerry, I can’t seem to open the pictures at the links you posted, but I’m looking for the thermostatic diaphragm (the brass accordion looking thing) for my 1930 Pines Winterfront. Is this what you’re offering? Thanks, Duncan
  2. Thanks Stude8, no, the fan spun freely while I had the belt off. It is held firmly in place by the fan belt now. I've been keeping the hub filled with gear oil via the filling screw on the side of the hub while I look for a replacement gear.
  3. Thanks everyone. I pulled the radiator over the weekend and couldn't find any obstructions there. The lower tube on my car is actually a length of steel pipe, connected to the pump and lower radiator with short sections of clamped hose, so I don't think collapsing is the issue. Stude8, I did have a lot of silt/rust in the water cavity, but I think I've cleaned it out pretty well. One thing I did notice though, when I had the fan off for repainting, I noticed that the smaller of the gears in the picture above was missing. This was before I even had the engine running, and I didn't think much of it at the time (not knowing if there even was a small gear that was supposed to be there). The fan spins freely so I don't think that's the cause of the overheating, but good to know that I'll need to get a new one soon. I think I've covered pretty much all the bases with the cooling system; is there any way the overheating could be caused by a carburetor setting?
  4. Thanks Studegard. I'm not sure what exaust i have on it. The last time this car was touched was in 1952 so i'm thinking it's stock. I did blow it out (via starter fluid and a lighter, very cool noise and flames out the back), so i think the exaust is clear.
  5. Thanks guys, i did have to do some "JB" welding on the baffles, but I think I've got it pretty clean. I just pulled the radiator again and I'm hoping I can pop out a hairball or something with some water presure.
  6. Thanks Terry, I just took a good look around the block, on both sides and I don't see any plugs. Maybe they're buried somewhere at the rear of the block, where I cant really get to? Also, I was suspecting the water pump, so I pulled it off this weekend and took it apart. It looked alright to my untrained eye. The rotor looked intact and solidly attached to the shaft via the sheer pin. Is there anything specific I should be looking for within the pump which may effect it's operation? I also pulled the water jacket cover off again and pressure washed the drivers side of the cylinder bank. I couldn't access the passenger side of the cylinder bank, the space between the cylinders is only about 1/4 inch. After I had everything together again, the overheating continued. I did look into the radiator tank while the car was running, and I couldn't really see any water flow, but I'm not sure if that was due to an obstruction, or the fact that the intake tube enters the top of the tank below the water lever near the cap. Any suggestions? Thanks again!
  7. Nope. The timing was spot on when I checked it last night. Maybe it is a water flow issue after all. Where exactly are the core/freeze plugs on this engine? And do I need to purchase replacements for when I remove them? Thanks again! Duncan
  8. I was able to get Studebaker Green engine enamel from Bill Hirsch Auto in New Jersey: Engine Enamel Quarts, High Temp High Gloss Engine Enamel Paint - HirschAuto.com Worked out pretty well for me. Not cheap but worth it. Duncan
  9. Thanks 32mod55, I did clean out the head while I had it off, and there was indeed a lot of junk in there (including acorns). I'm thinking that since the flow rate through the engine and radiator seem to be OK, it must be something else. After reading some other posts on the subject, I'm thinking it may be a timing issue. I thought I had it timed correctly when I re installed the distributor, but maybe not. I'll check it again this weekend.
  10. Well, I have another question I’m hoping someone will be able to help me with. I’ve finally got my 1930 Commander on the road, and I’m having a lot of trouble with overheating. I had the radiator re-cored, I removed the water gallery cover on the driver’s side of the engine and cleaned the water gallery as well as I could, removed the head and cleaned the water gallery in it as well as I could, and flushed and re-filled the coolant system with clean water (no antifreeze as there’s no danger of freezing temps at the moment and antifreeze has worse thermal conductivity than water). While at idle, the engine will heat up to normal operating temp in around 10 minutes or so, but as soon as I start driving, the temp climbs rapidly until it overheats. Once it is overheated, if I let it sit at idle, the temperature will begin to drop. The water pump seems to be working, as water will come out of the outlet tube on the top of the head when I crank the engine over with the tube removed. There also doesn’t seem to be too much rolling resistance in the wheels or breaks which would cause extra load on the engine when moving. And lastly, the vanes on the Pines-Winterfront radiator shroud are fully open. Am I missing something? Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance! Duncan
  11. Thanks studerex, I was able to remove the door handles and the window cranks. By the way, the wrench needed to remove the door handle is exactly the same wrench needed to remove the cylinder head on a Cox .049 glow engine: Cox 049 051 Model Engine Tool Wrench Spanner 049 051 | eBay Makes it easy as pie!
  12. Also, Virgil, you said that you replaced the window channels, where were you able to get those? I think I can reuse the ones on my car, but I did notice a few cracks near the rivets and will at least need new felt. Thanks again! Duncan
  13. Thanks Virgil, I was able to drill out the steel split rivets and pull the channels out enough to get the glass out. Once I replace the glass, I might replace the steel rivets with brass, just to ease the process in the future. Also, I know this relates to one of my past posts, but the wrench needed to remove the inside door handles, a thin 9/16th inch, is pretty much the exact same wrench needed to remove the cylinder head on a Cox .049 glow engine, two of which are provided with each engine. Just an FYI...
  14. Thank you pvstudabak, I found the tabs on the window which hold the channels. There are two on each side (front and back). they were hidden on the outside by paint, and on the inside of the channels, they were hidden within the felt. Mine are rusted, so I'm going to drill them out and replace when I have new glass cut. P.S. I found that a residential glass company can cut the glass for my car - I just have to provide a template or the original glass to trace.
  15. Thanks studeboy. There seems to be a block across the inside of the door, at the bottom of the window glass’ travel, which prevents it from going any lower. I don’t see any bolts on the inside of the door panel which would allow it to be removed, but maybe it’s glued in? I’ll check when I get home tonight. Thanks again!
  16. All right, I've been able to remove the door and window handles on my 1930 Commander, I’ve removed the door panel, disconnected and removed the window regulator, and now… I’m stuck. The window is now moving freely along the channels, and the window rail is still attached to the bottom of the window. My question is, what’s next? I don’t want to damage the channels while removing the glass, but I can’t see any other way of freeing the glass. Also, I’m assuming that I need to remove the window rail before I can remove the window, how do I go about doing this? As always, thanks in advance! Duncan
  17. I know this is a daft question but.... how do I remove the door handles and window cranks from my 1930 Commander? I am trying to replace the windows and I can't remove the door panels without taking off the door handles and window cranks. I don't see any set-screws so I'm assuming I need to loosen something within the door? Many thanks for your help.
  18. Thanks again Gary and studerex, mine is an FD, four door sedan, so it looks like the side windows would be the same.
  19. Thanks Gary, I've called a few glass companies, but no one around here seems to have access to the patterns. I might just reach out to the SNM and see what they can offer. Any clue where I can find the part numbers? I have chassis manual, but it doesn’t seem to list the part numbers for the glass. Thanks again.
  20. Does anyone happen to have window templates for a 1930 Commander? I’m looking for all the windows, but especially the windshield and front and rear side windows. I have access to a large format printer, so printing them off shouldn’t be a problem, assuming I can get the scale right. Thanks in advance, Duncan
  21. Here's some interesting info on the VW bellows: TheSamba.com :: View topic - RE-made thermostat idea. It would be interesting to see if they could be adapted for use in a Pines or similar unit. I haven’t heard back from Sigma-Netics yet, but I’ll let you know when I do.</SPAN>
  22. I'm going to shoot Sigma-Netics an email today with the dimensions of the bellows I’m after and see what they come back with. I was also looking at this company: Cliflex: Hydroform Metal Bellows, and it looks like they manufacture pretty much the same line of products. I’ll let you know what I learn. I’m sure if they have a compatible size, it will be loads cheaper than the $400 ones, even if I have to do some modifications to the ends to make it work in the original Pines’ unit. </SPAN> This is the first antique car I’ve worked on, and I’ve found that I really have to think outside the box sometimes to find a solution to some of the problems I’ve run into. I’m glad that this board exists so I can bounce ideas off of folks who know a heck of a lot more than I do about these things.</SPAN> I keep you posted on what I find out. </SPAN>
  23. I was thinking of making one. It's a sealed unit which fits into the radiator tank. I think it opens at around 140 F or so, I'm not 100% sure though. It's a thermostatic bellows, made of brass, about 2 inches in diameter, and 2.25 inches tall when fully compressed. Steam traps, used in steam heating systems, use almost the exact same bellows system, although from what I’ve seen, the bellows are much smaller. I’ve found a few manufactures who make these bellows using hydraulic dies, but I don’t think they would be willing to do a one-off project. </SPAN>
  24. Any one have any idea where I could get a reasonably priced Pines Winterfront Thermostat? The bellows on the one from my 1930 Commander is shot. I've found one website that sells rebuilt units, but there almost $400 for the bellows alone. Thanks again! Duncan
  25. I just got th equote from the shop to re-core the radiator - $695, which seems in line with what studerex said above. I can't, for the life of me, find anywhere that sells new, replacement radiators fo rmy car. Anyone know of anywhere? I'm going to have mine re-cored anyway, but the info might be helpful in the future... Thanks.
  • Create New...