Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by 64riviera

  1. I was wondering if there is a boardmember near East Palatka FL. who is willing to help me out and check out a car for me.
  2. Encountered the same problem. See the topic I started. Or did you already found out where the connections go. Where does it say in the 64 manual that the large one T's into the 4 post?? Did I mis that one??
  3. Thanks Bob for the schematics. The '63 is different from the '64, but it looks like the bigger connections from the modulator T's in to the vacuum hose that goes too the "outer" connection from that dual stage diaphragm. If I would compare that to the schematics from my '64 this would be the vacuum line coming from the nr. 4 connection from the heater adapter (marked yellow).
  4. Hi Bob. Yes there's a figure in the 64 manual showing where the vacuum hoses go, but the vacuum modulator is not shown in that figure. I know the she smaller connection goes to the STV and the bigger one T's into another vacuum hose, but it doesn't show into which vacuum hose. And there a quite a couple of those vacuum hoses..
  5. Today I decided to replace the vacuum lines because some one it was quite a mess of vacuum hose, with the strangest connections, that didn't look anything like the layout in my manual. Wondered how it could actually have worded, at least, it looked to me like it all worked. But like I said, I started replacing al the vacuum hoses and make the connections like the way it was mentioned in the manual. But then I saw a strange thing attached to the controle unit. After some research I found out that it was the AC vacuum modulator. This modulator has two connections, a larger and a smaller one. I found out that the smaller one goes to the vacuum diaphragm under the hood, but where to large connection has to be connected to?? No idea. Can't find it in the manual. In the old situation it was connected to the main vacuum source (the smaller tube that comes from the vacuum storage canister), but since the connection is larger I expect it to be connection to something else. Then I also remembered reading something about the drawing of the vacuum circuit in the manual being wrong. The two dual stage vacuum diaphragms where switched in the drawing in the manual. Anybody know if this is thru? I attached some pictures of the AC vacuum modulator I'm talking of.
  6. I was wondering If anyone had any experience with a Crane vacuum advance unit in combination with a '64 425 engine? Just keep fiddling around with my ignition to get the most out of it, so every info is welcome. It was converted about 2 years ago from points to a Pertronix II module.
  7. Well, after sorting out the vacuum hose spaghetti, I put everything back together. At the first startup I noticed that the speed drop when shifting into Drive was gone. Probably a faulty contact I guess. Couldn't reproduce it, so problem solved. But then I also noticed a vacuum leak at that black rubber vacuum hose connector thing that is pushed on the .... Probably has a name but can't find it, but anyone who has ever worked on it / seen it knows what I mean. Coudn't get it fixed so for the moment I just blocked that connection. No more noticeable vacuum leak (didn't hear a hissing sound) and I got the slight Idea that the engine ran kind of smoother. It has to do until I get a vacuum pump. Went for a nice ride last Monday and enjoyed the weather (and an ice-cream ).
  8. When I bought the car I had my share of bad grond problems. I now that very strange things can happen if you have a faulty / bad ground connetion. So I replaced all the ground straps and added some extra. That took care of most of the problems. The other one's were also gound related but it was a bad connection at the light housing and so on. Yesterday I decided to take the blower / AC controls apart. I've kind of looked at them before, but decided this time I would dig in (a lot) deeper. Pfff, what a lot of vacuum hoses. Looks like they have been replaced since they are all plain black, no colours, and very fexible. I Noticed that there were 2 loose connections, but I don't know if I did that taking the controls out, or if it was like that already. Never heard a "hissing" sound from a vacuum leak. I took the blower switches apart and wondered that it worked at all. very filthy greasy contacts. Cleaned them, connected them and tested it. Worked fine. Haven't put it all back together, hope to do that later this week and I'll keep you posted about what I found out. About not having an RPM drop when closing the PCV valve, in almost every case they tell you that is the way to test the valve. Closing it would result in an RPM drop. So that's why I tried it like that. First getting the controles back together, hopefully it makes a change. (for the best.) See if I can find a hand vacuum pump around here. Lookes like an easy way to look for vacuum leaks. Thanks for your thoughts, keep you posted.
  9. After been away from the forum for a while for several reasons, one of them being not using the cars for quite some time, I thought it would be time to start using them again. Having quite some nice weather right now and seeing other people taking their classics for a spin, made me decide that it would be time for me to enjoy them also. The last posts were about some idle issues. Being kind of rough. It still isn’t as smooth as the 350 in my Lesabre, but also not so bad I’m afraid taking it out for a drive. But still rough enough to keep me fiddling around trying to figure it out. By now I noticed a couple of very strange things, maybe related, but I can’t figure it out. My car is equipped with air conditioning, and when it put the blower switch(on the AC control) on “high” , and the lever on “vent”, the blower motor starts blowing at maximum speed. So far, so good. But when I put the car in Drive, the blower speed will decrease?? Looks like it goes back to medium. This only happens when I put it in Drive. When I put it in Reverse, no problem, full blower speed?? Don’t get it. The other thing, and maybe it’s related so that’s why I put in in the same topic, is my PCV valve. I’m 100% sure it not clogged or something but when I take it out of the valve cover, and block it with my finger, I feel, and hear, the valve closing. But no RPM drop whatsoever?? I thought, (and still think) that my rough idle problem had something to do with my vacuum. Looking for a leak or something I noticed those two strange things as mentioned above? Anyone any idea what to look for, or what could cause this?
  10. Haven't really had time to get into this. I fiddled around with the vacuum advance, and yes this made an difference. But not in the roughness in idling. Really hoped it did because it would be a simple resolution. But I hadn't had a chance to really test it. It startede raining and when the raining stopped I promised my wife and kids to take them on a vacantion. So as we speak I'm staying at a campground in Luxembourg. No so bad, but I'm not able to look at the possible causes/ solutions mentioned by you guys. When I get back home next week I continue my search. I did notice I had some play in the distributor gears. Is this just a matter of changing the gear on the distributor shaft for a new one (if they are available?)?
  11. @ Bernie. Don't hope I have to go that far to get this solved. Is one of my last options. @ Tom. No play in the distributor shaft whatsoever. Took of the cap and tried to wiggle the rotor. Nothing. Maybe worn out gear? @ Tom T. That's an easy thing to check. Maybe I even used the wrong springs for the weights, so I get some centrifugal advance also. Going to check that as soon as I get a chance. Any idea if those bushings as sold separately or do I just make one myself. Going to let you know if playing with the advance makes any difference.
  12. Well I checked the spark plugs by pulling the wires, they all perform like they should. Did a compression test, the lowest was 170 and the highest was 180 PSI. Checked timing (again), 2.5 BTC without vacuum, 30 with vacuum. RPM in neutral 820, RPM in D 580 It idles rough when it is in D (so at 580 RPM), when it is in neutral it's fine. I did notice that the timing mark on the balancer is not really steady. It kind of jumps back and forward. Also the RPM's when idling in Drive is not consistent, it kind of varies from 570 to 590. Maybe a worn distributor bushing or gear?? Checked the idle mixture screws. No matter what I did, turning them in or out, the RPM would drop, so I guess this is the best mixing ratio. Just came back from a local cruise night and noticed that after driving the "autobahn" for some time the engine tends to stall when I would stop at the end of the off ramp. It doesn't stall but the RPM's drop until the oil pressure light comes on for a short time (just flickers) and then it recovers itself. Oil pressure on the freeway is around 40 psi, 20 psi when idling.
  13. Since I bought my Riviera about 3 years ago I'm not quite satisfied with the way the engine runs / idles. It's kind of rough so to say. When I compare it to the 350 in my '68 LeSabre, quite a difference. That 350 purrs like a kitten, doesn't miss a beat. I've never driven another 64 Riviera with a 425 since they are kind of scarce around here. Heard one run at a meeting a few months ago, and it idled so much smoother than mine. I was told the engine was rebuilt at some time but that doesn't mean anything. I know there are people that rebuilt an engine with a brush and spay can. Here are the things I already did to the engine; New plugs, New wires New rotor and distributor cap. Eventually I swapped the points for a Pertronix Ignitor II and flamethrower coil. New timing chain New rebuilt carburator (AFB3665S) I thought of a vacuum leak but couldn't find one. So I took of the big vacuum hose that starts at the back of the intake manifold and plugged that connection. Thinking that if there was a vacuum leak causing this rough idle plugging that connection on the manifold would take care of this. It made no difference. Correct me if I thought wrong. When I bought the car it didn't have a vacuum reservoir, they just connected the hoses where they normally are connected to the reservoir. I bought a reservoir last year and it didn't make much of a difference. Checked the balancer if the outer ring hadn't moved. No, still in the right place. Now I'm thinking that, if the engine was rebuilt like the seller said, they maybe put in another camshaft that's causing this. But that is not so easy to determine I guess. Any thoughts on this one? Did I miss something, do something wrong, things I can do, ...... you know. I'm running out of ideas. Attached a picture of the camshaft I took when changing the timing chain. I
  14. I'm looking for someone willing to take a look at a car for me. The car is located at GR Auto Gallery in Grand Rapids. Off course I'm willing to reimburse the cost for time, gas,...
  15. That should be an relatively easy spot to repair. They would go down the door from above and then try to press the dent out.
  16. Had two in my '64 Riviera (by my own fault :mad:) and had them removed with paintless dent removal. So it's possible.
  17. I had the same problem with my 64 in combination with supremes. The wheel kept touching the fender. Eventually I had someone machine down that rim on the hub, so I could mount the supremes without a spacer, problem solved. See the following thread for pictures. http://forums.aaca.org/f177/vogues-no-vogues-360446.html
  18. Hmmm, when reading al this I realize I should of asked this sooner, would of have saved me a lot of money and frustration. Never realized that those brass jets could get so ridiculously stuck. I’ve had my share of bolts and nuts that wouldn’t move but I always managed, one way or another, to get it out or loose,but these small brass things won. Jon,I already emailed you through your companies website about a carb.
  19. Since I had some spare time today I decided to take my carb apart so I could take away to get ultrasonic cleaned. Something I had planned for this winter since I was suspecting the carb for being the cause of some issues. So I took it off and started to take it apart, but when I got to the jets, they wouldn't get out, at least 3 didn't. One came out pretty easy but the other three, pfff, no chance. I tried everything, from the screw driver, when that one failed it tapped in a torx-bit but no result. After that a left handed drill bit, no result, so I went for my screw extractor set. No result at all. Those things where so seized up, unbelievable. On 1 side the jet mount kind of broke loose, just a small fracture, something I probable can fix, but this also indicates how tight these things were. After all this I ended up with a carb with 3 holes where I only can try to cut new thread for the jets, if I have enough metal left. Any thoughts or should I consider this carb lost and should I start looking for a new 3665. Maybe a gift for my wife for this Christmas?
  20. Well, I'll first give it a thorough shot myself. Shipping it to the US and back to the Netherlands won't be cheap, so this will be one of my last options. Yes, we do have about 5 percent of ethanol mixed with our regular fuel, on the other hand, the fuel in Europe has a higher RON number than the fuel in the US. We're having fuel with 95 (or even 98 RON). But the European RON number is measured differently than the US RON. To cut a long story short, European fuel with 95 RON would be US fuel with around 90 RON. An acquaintance of mine has a 59 Pontiac that only idles nice with 98 RON fuel. Haven't tried the 98 RON fuel yet, only the 95. But it is something I want to do as soon as I have to fuel up again. But at around $ 9.00 a gallon I try to be really economical.....with a 425 hahaha.
  21. I was afraid I forgot to mention something, and that was that I also checked compression. Compression turned out to be as follows; 1-185 2-175 3-170 4-170 5-170 6-180 7-170 8-180 Also placed a new vacuum advance unit (forgot to mention this also). It’s not just the rough idling but there is also a slight hesitation when accelerating (acceleration pump is working, vac. advance is working), so this is something that maybe can be fixed by changing the spring underneath thepower piston. Something I just have to try and see what the effect of changing the springs is.
  22. The reason for this is as follows; I bought the car about a year and a half ago, and when I bought it, it ran terrible. First thing I did was taking the carb apart, clean it (there was a lot of carbon inside), new gaskets, new needle and seats and almost everything else that was in the rebuilt kit. Checked also for wear between the shafts and body, but that was really minimal. I changed a lot the way the engine ran, but it still ran kind of rough. So the other stuff I replaced over the last year are; new spark plugs new spark plug wires new rotor and distributor cap changed the point for a pertronix new distributor chain new fuel pump checked for vacuum leaks (several times, no leaks) checked for air leakage in the intake area (several times also, also no leaks) fiddled around with different weights and springs in the distributor …..hmm, that kind of sums it up, at least, the stuff that is related to the running of the engine. Still the engine runs kind of rough. I’m comparing it to the 350 in my ’68 Lesabre that runs much smoother. Problem is, that it isn’t easy to find another ’64 Riviera with a 425 to compare it with. At least not here in the Netherlands. Anyway, this made me decide that I would take the carb apart, have it ultrasonic cleaned and change whatever there is to change so I can rule out that these things would still cause the rough idling / running of the engine. Since I have to order the stuff from the US, and have to pay the shipping to Europe anyway and parts like jets, springs, etc. don’t cost the world, I wanted to, like I said, replace whatever is available to replace. In my search for those parts I stumbled across the metering rods, and since some site’s offer them for about $13 a set I thought to replace them too. But I couldn’t find the right size, which made me post this thread. After your reply, and the replies from Carbking, I probably keep using the ones I have. Nevertheless, I learned a lot about metering rods, jets and carter carbs the past weeks.
  23. Had the rod measured today and it turned out that there was nothing wrong with the micrometer I used. Even found out that the rod was kind of oval instead of round. This evening I took the other one out and it measured exactly the same. With an extra good magnifying glass (to make up for my ”not so young” pair of eyes) I could read the part nr. and it was 16-167. I decided to put the rods back, enjoy the car for as long as summer will last, and take the carb really apart in winter, have it cleaned ultrasonic, and inventorise then what I exactly need. Not sure what I’m gonna do with the rods, but I have some time to think it over. Thanks for your help.
  24. Hi Jon. I don't know what an hour shop time in the US is, even worse, have to figure out what it shop time in the Netherlands is for this kind of work. I took the rods out and tried to measure them, as good as I was able to. Original would be 0.0695 * 0.063, I measure 0.0685 * 0.0622. No idea of this difference is of any meaning. It's only about 1.2 %. Maybe it's within the margin. I'll take the rod to work tomorrow and try to measure it again, so I'm sure about the size. Marcel.
  25. Hi Jon. Giving you a call was on my to do list for next week. Could you put a number on "not inexpensive"?
  • Create New...