1958bkspecial

If interested in the fenders please email gliss46@sbcglobal.net or text 217-979-33 six one, James

Want to Buy a better rear window trim for my 1955 Roadmaster 2 door hardtop. Mine is dented and scratched as you can see in the pictures. I am hoping to buy just this piece. Please help. 217-979-three three six one.

I have 2 driver side fenders left over from my 1955 Buick Roadmaster project. Both are very solid and have no rust. These were extras that came with the car when I bought it . The good news is that we were able to repair the original fender . $250. Each Prefer local pick up but will drive to meet within 100 miles.

For sale is a 1950's batwing air cleaner . Cadillac /Oldsmobile GM. $199 + shipping based on location. text or call 217-979- 33 six one

Please call or text 217-979-33 six one and we will talk shipping. Thank you ,James

For sale are 1958 Buick Upper and Lower A-Arms.Right side and left side. The Lower arms have been powder coated in black. Please call or text 217-979-33 six one. All four $120. OBO. Shipping to be determined.

For sale are parts from my 1955 Buick Roadmaster project . Note the pictures and make an offer. a fan shroud heater and defroster parts wiper motor windshield washer jar and bracket master cylinder vacuum cylinder power steering pump etc.

I am restoring a 1955 Buick Roadmaster and need a better hood that does not have stress fractures by the hinges. I know this is a problem with these hoods. Maybe someone can suggest how to re-enforce these. i have been told that the cracks will reappear even if this hood is repaired and strengthened. James 217-979-336one.

Hello; I am need of 1955 Buick Roadmaster parts. A better trunk lid and hood. Do you have those? text or call 217-979-3361. Thanks

Hello Everyone; I have read many previous posts from other 1957 Buick owners about solutions to the loose play /alignment problems resulting from the one year ball joint application. Many have talked about the expense of rebuilt joints. Others have decided to change the A-arms converting to '58-60 Buick arms and using a different ball joint altogether. I notice the steering wheel on my '57 Century wants to go to the right as soon as I let go. I have had a reputable mechanic tell me that I need new control arm bushings and new ball joints. I told him about the reputation the '57 ball joints have. His answer was, "while we are putting new bushings on the control arms , the ball joints should be done since they have a lot of play in them". My heart sank as I know the cost of those suckers! $$$$ My questions are this..... How many owners have actually used rebuilt ball joints with success and how long did they last? Is there a cheaper way to rebuild them? When converting to 58-60 Buick A-arms /newer ball joints ,did you notice good results? Are the suspension parts the same on all of the series 40, 50, 60 ,70? How does this affect the originality? Since I do not have the tools/know how to mechanically do this, I am wondering what to do. I can picture the whole process from diagrams and reading but I don't have the skills or tools needed. I am trying to find a cost effective way to improve the suspension. Thank you for your suggestions and experience. Jim

Hey Brandon; Here is a contact for parts from Alan, in Oregon, who has many parts you are looking for such as the gravel guard. His ph.# is 503-371-3358. Jim

Welcome. Yes, we love pictures. I have found many parts on ebay for my '57. I am very please with the selection and parts I have acquired from Fusick automotive in CT. They have many parts for 1950's Buicks. Check out the Buick Catalog at www.fusick.com. The AACA is a great place to start. J.R.

Hello Moparguy; I am interested in your tail lights. Can you send or post some pictures. I am interested in replacing/rechroming my 57 Century bezels. Do these include outer and inner bezels? Thanks, J.R. at gliss46@sbcglobal.net

Time to feature my favorite Buick Year model.....a 1957 Century in Champaign, Illinois. Our subdivision pond. Thanks for the opportunity. J.R.

Thank you, everyone, for your help. I went to NAPA auto parts and ordered a new switch after locating it thanks to picture that was posted. I easily replaced it myself. Right there on the Master cylinder. How easy was that! Now my lights are working!!! Also I checked them while the car ignition was on. I have turn signals and back up lights!!! How awesome is that! I really appreciate the tips you all give and am glad when there are a few things I can do myself. J.R.

Thank you Jim. Yes , I do have a working dome light. So I should be looking at the Master cylinder area which I had rebuilt. I will do that. I was not sure if the fuse label went to the one above or below. I thought the Brake switch was near the pedal under the dash somewhere. I still have a lot to learn. Thanks again. J.R.

I am hoping by posting some pictures here someone can tell me what is missing for my 1957 Century. The brakes and master cylinder have gotten ALL the attention this summer. Now I am trying to figure out the lights. I have turn signals, just no back up or Brake lights. Looks like a fuse housing / fuse is missing and I cannot see a brake light switch.? Any help or diagram would be appreciated. Thanks in advance, J.R.

Hello Jason; I also have '57 Century 4-door hardtop and have no side mirrors. I was wanting to add some but have resisted mounting anything. I have also thought about the peep mirrors since they can be removed. I am still working on the brakes for now. Please Let us know what you decide. I would like to hear more from you about your Century. Here is my personal email...gliss46@sbcglobal.net Thanks JR

I am looking for advice on whether to replace the brake vacuum tank in my '57 Century. I was told I have a vacuum leak and need a new check valve and resevoir tank. Is that part easy to find and with what is the tank replaced? My tank looks amazingly solid from top to bottom without removing it. The master cylinder has been rebuilt and new shoes and wheel cylinders put on. Pedal works great too. Just, not much brake action when pushed to the floor. What have others done to fix this and is my vacuum tank irrepairable? JR

Hello Newbie; Buick cars with the "carburetor vacuum starter switch" often have problems. Mine was cracked and a replacement impossible to find for my rebuilt Rochester carb.on my '57. I had a dash mounted switch installed. Fifthaveinternetgarage.com has technical tips for everything including" Buicks with vacuum starter switches" mounted on the throttle body of the carb. Also there have been posts here in the past about a- '60 LeSabre carburetor piece". My favorite article was also from ..southernwheels.com. April 06. A whole page on the accelorator vacuum switch. Check out their archives!! Hope these articles help you get yours started. JR

I would like to add that I was able to get the SEM brand paint and vinyl prep cleaner at my Sherwin Williams paint store. The Color Coat was around $15.00 each. I would order it online at" Amazon" next time if I knew how much I was going to need and what color. Shipping would have been free for the bulk and cost less. There is also a SEM color chart on line. Just search that when looking. Thank you for the words of encouragement. JR

1957 Century Vinyl Headliner Paint results I thought I would follow up my post back in March about painting a vinyl headliner in my '57 Century 4 door post. Whoever recommended using the SEM vinyl paint products, THANK YOU! !!! I think they work great and the spray nozzle definitely flows better than the cheaper brands. I used the SEM vinyl prep and cleaner. The rust stains did not diminish much as you can see. From the pictures I am going to post you will see the use of bungee strap hooks to spray the sun visors. Also, blue painters tape to carefully tape off the interior trim. I also wore head-cover and a face mask. It certainly helped to have a perfect day to leave the doors open and air the paint. It took 3 cans of SEM White -15313 Color Coat. There are many variations of white but after the test run, basic white matched perfectly! The last picture of the post is before painting. Hope this helps. JR

I thought I would follow up my post back in March about painting a vinyl headliner in my '57 Century 4 door post. Whoever recommended using the SEM vinyl paint products, THANK YOU! !!! I think they work great and the spray nozzle definitely flows better than the cheaper brands. I used the SEM vinyl prep and cleaner. The rust stains did not diminish much as you can see. From the pictures I am going to post you will see the use of bungee strap hooks to spray the sun visors. Also, blue painters tape to carefully tape off the interior trim. I also wore head-cover and a face mask. It certainly helped to have a perfect day to leave the doors open and air the paint. It took 3 cans of SEM White -15313 Color Coat. There are many variations of white but after the test run, basic white matched perfectly! The last picture of the post is out of order and before painting. Hope this helps. JR

I got my '58 Special a new battery for under $80.00 last year at " Rural King" here in Illinois. Don't know if you have one in your area. I agree that a farm supply store would be the least expensive. JR

Hello Compression; Welcome to Buick World. Glad to see you are taking care of this beautiful Super.! I spent the winter working on my '57 Century. Like you, work started on the fuel system, resealing gas tank, new sending unit, new fuel line and painting of tank. Before the new dual exhaust was put on, the underside was wire brushed,painted with POR15 and undercoated. The previous owner had painted the solid floor pan with rust proofing before installing new carpet. I also had the master brake cylinder rebuilt and the 4bbl carburetor rebuilt too. The carb starter switch is hard to find if your is broken like mine was. A starter switch was then placed under the dash for convenience. The bakelite ones on the carb itself just don't last. I am going to paint my headliner this weekend (weather permitting) and I will post the outcome of that on the forum. Someone recommended SEM brand vinyl paints would work. I have cleaned the headliner with the SEM brand prep-cleaner and have got the paint. I hope to cover the stains on my otherwise perfect headliner. My Century runs well with 72,000 miles on it. The transmission works great and does not leak. The next project is the suspension. I have purchased new coils, tie- rod ends and want to put on new shocks. As already mentioned, watch out for the ball-joints. First year for these and only year for this model. This forum has lots of information on them in past posts. I have studied the procedure for replacing the A-arms from a 58-60 Buick to replace the '57ones. Cheaper ball joints for 58-60. If you want to get rebuilt ball joints for the '57 it will set you back about $1400-$1600. That is my next project. I have no idea how old mine are and the condition seems ok for now. I am also going to work on the horn this weekend. Another good place to find parts is "fusick.com". Looks like your chrome is good with the extra rear bumper. Hope I have helped in some way. We are all anxious to hear of your progress. JR.