Patricks31ply

Up for sale is our 1931 Plymouth PA. Clean title, runs and drives great. Car has been a family project for years and was originally purchased new by my wife's Great Uncle in Youngstown Ohio. Car currently lives with us in Apache Junction AZ. Very nice car. $16000.00 OBO. Serious only please. Patrick 480-824-3138

Up for sale is our 1931 Plymouth PA. Clean title, runs and drives great. Car has been a family project for years and was originally purchased new by my wife's Great Uncle in Youngstown Ohio. Car currently lives with us in Apache Junction AZ. Very nice car. $16000.00 OBO. Serious only please. Patrick 480-824-3138

FOR SALE is our 1931 Plymouth PA located in Apache Junction AZ (85119). Car has been in the family since she was purchased new in 1931. Is restored and runs great. Serious inquires only please. My email is p-e-smith@hotmail.com or respond via the forum. Asking $14500.00 or best offer. I do have lots of extras including signs, and some spare parts. Clear title. No rumble seat. Car is a business coupe.

Thank you all for the nice comments! Being able to work through the problems on this car is a great release after a challenging day at work in the real world. Nothing better than heading out to the shop and escaping the daily grind. She has been in our family since the day she was purchased 83 years ago. <o:p></o:p>

Here is the link to the step by step guide. I could not get the PDF to upload to this forum. http://www.ply33.com/Repair/brake_drums/

Yes I will!

Thx and agree! I'm creating a step by step guide including part numbers, pictures and purchased items which Todd will put on his site at POC for future reference.

New drums for my 1931 Plymouth PA<o:p></o:p> After a long summer of many major mechanical repairs my last project for this year was to address the drums. I searched high and low for replacement drums (11”x1.5”) with no luck. <o:p></o:p> My last option was to make something work as my drums were way beyond spec and not safe to drive with. I found the 1931 Model A drums matched the size but in order to make all this work would need machine work. I removed the hubs from the Plymouth drums, machined the center hole in the Model A drums to match the step in the Plymouth drums, machined new holes for the wheel studs and moved the hubs to the inside of the drum as on the Plymouth they are on the outside of the drum. Brake shoes are relined and all seals are new. I did have to add a small shim behind the backing plate to allow the new drum to make complete contact with the shoe, roughly .010.<o:p></o:p> This has been far from easy or cheap but the finished results were well worth the hours, dollars, and challenges. <o:p></o:p> Here are a few pictures for reference: </o:p>

Sorry for the delay. Vacation with the wife took time away from my project! I did get it done. It was actually fairly simple. Pulled the drive shaft, removed the parking brake drum, and the seal was attached with three bolts. I found the shaft on the brake drum inside had pitted very bad over time. After media blasting all parts I machined the shaft, installed a speedie sleeve and a new modern seal. Reassembled and its as good as new! Here are a few pictures for future reference:

Thank you! Yes I believe this is the seal. I plan to put her on jacks tonight and start the tear down. Will give you a update when complete.

I just completed rebuilding from the block back on my 31 PA. Pulled the bell housing and installed a new bushing at the clutch fork, NOS pressure plate, clutch plate, throwout bearing, media blasted everything, and painted everything. Along the way I did replace the rear engine seal with a modern neoprene seal. Previously I rebuilt the rear pinion seal and media blasted the drive shaft. Looking below she looks like a new car. Now for the question: I took her out for a test drive and the both the engine seal and rear seal are tight, no leaks. I did find gear oil leaking from the rear of the transmission just before the parking brake housing. I’m aware an oil seal exist at the rear of the transmission but am asking for some info on how to get to it? Does anyone have experience with this seal? Do I need to pull the transmission, parking brake housing, or can the work be done with the floor boards removed and the car on jacks? The books I have on her simply say rear oil seal with no direction for remove and replace. Thank you, Patrick

I just completed rebuilding from the block back on my 31 PA. Pulled the bell housing and installed a new bushing at the clutch fork, NOS pressure plate, clutch plate, throwout bearing, media blasted everything, and painted everything. Along the way I did replace the rear engine seal with a modern neoprene seal. Previously I rebuilt the rear pinion seal and media blasted the drive shaft. Looking below she looks like a new car. Now for the question: I took her out for a test drive and the both the engine seal and rear seal are tight, no leaks. I did find gear oil leaking from the rear of the transmission just before the parking brake housing. I’m aware an oil seal exist at the rear of the transmission but am asking for some info on how to get to it? Does anyone have experience with this seal? Do I need to pull the transmission, parking brake housing, or can the work be done with the floor boards removed and the car on jacks? The books I have on her simply say rear oil seal with no direction for remove and replace. Thank you, Patrick

Posting for a friend in Glendale Arizona. Please contact him direct regarding questions. FOR SALE: 1930 FORD MODEL A, $4500 OBO Car is located in Glendale Arizona Contact Vic @ 602-321-5120 for more information. Thank you,

Greg, Please contact Ron direct. My cell number is 306 577 1809 and email address is loispaul@sasktel.net If you have any questions please contact me. He can give you specifics. Currently in Mesa AZ but he may have plans to take the car back north once the weather warms. I don't have more info, just posting for him as he is not great with computers.

Posting this for a friend! His contact information is in the ad. Please contact him direct if you have questions. The Chandler Motor Company produced cars from 1916 to 1929 in Cleveland Ohio. This is the model Chandler 6. It has a flathead 6 built by Chandler. The motor has been completely redone and power train gone through . The interior and exterior were redone. My cell number is 306 577 1809 and email address is loispaul@sasktel.net If you have any questions please contact me. Ron Paul

Try www.egge.com , www.hagensautoparts.com , www.kanter.com , www.ply33.com for lots of detailed information on all early Plymouths.

www.iandireproduction.com Could be a they have what your looking for?

Any chance someone would have this part number? It should be the same 11" brake drum, wire wheel on the 29, 30, 31, and 32 Plymouth.

Wire wheel, sorry forgot to mention type.

I'm searching for a front brake drum for my 1931 Plymouth PA. NOS preferred. 29,30,31, 32 all list the same part number for the brake drums so they should all be the same. Thank you.

Great! Thank you, yes it helps very much.

Thanks Steve! When you have a minute would you please post a picture of your PA with air cleaner? It seems difficult to even find original pictures with the proper set-up in place.

My posting was "air cleaner for a 31 PA". Just trying to identify, find, install what was original on my 31 PA. The tag on my Carter carb does match the 31 PA. So moving forward I will drive her with the modern air filter, K&N but when I'm showing her my thoughts are to have the original air cleaner assembly available so I can show her as original as possible. Thanks for the information again!

Interesting. It does have a Carter 1bbl which does appear to be the right hand picture. I do have the build card and it states the build date was Aug 15, 1931. The car has been in the family since she was purchased new so no idea how the 32 carb description is different from what is on her? A mystery for sure! Thanks for the info!

Here is a picture of my motor with the K&N filter. I'm thinking I will fashion a "can" or perforated housing to slip over the K&N. Once I paint the can black I think it will look a bit more vintage. I don't think I would like the big box affair even if it is original.