SBlomquist

Have you checked for good coolant flow through the radiator? The thought is that coolant pushed by the pump is up against more resistance to flow through the radiator tubes at the low RPM's. Remember the pump is not a positive displacement pump like the oil pump.

I still say that if it is a deep knock that something was not done correctly when it was rebuilt. Is it really a knock or maybe a ticking sound. Did the valves get adjusted properly? If so, something you could verify before dismantling the engine is that the valve adjustment was done correctly.

I doubt that having over filled the engine with oil that it would have produced the knock. I would venture to guess that something was not done correctly when the engine was rebuilt. Is this a fresh rebuild? Are you certian of oil pressure when the engine was first started after the rebuild? How many hours/miles do you have on the rebuild?

I am interested in the bumper medallion on the front. Does this car have bumperettes on the rear? Are these parts available?

I need four headlight bezel retainer clips for a 1925 Chevrolet superior sedan. These clips are 3.5- 4.0" long and 3/8" wide and are made out of 0.030" thick flat spring steel and mount to the headlight drums. If you have some or know where I could purchase them please let me know. Thanks, Steve

I am in need of headlight retainer clips for a 1925 Chevrolet superior sedan that hold the headlight bezels to the drums. They are about 3.5 - 4" long and 3/8" wide and are made out of 0.030" thick flat spring steel. These clips are inserted in the drums at four locations around the outside diameter. If you have four that you want to part with or know where one could purchase these clips, I would appreciate it very much. Thanks, Steve

I received the coil last weekend and installed it along with a condenser for a 1942-1954 case VA series four cylinder 6 volt tractor. I have it purring like a kitten now! Sweet!

Dave39MD, Hagen's Auto Parts, Puyallup, WA. Ph # 253-845-7020 26-25Buick What condenser? The distributor does not have a provision for a condenser inside or outside. I adapted one for a 6 volt on the outside to try with the present setup and no change in the performance.

Alfa, the resister mounted on the coil is an original design and everything I have seen indicates this. I do not think it is a ballast resister as they weren't used until the later years. Their isn't a wire direct from the power terminal of the starter switch to the coil. Need to do the before and after voltage measurement. The fuel is gravity feed and vented. rsb, the carburetor intake is connected to the stove exhaust. AlanT, The car remains a 6 volt system. I have a new coil ordered that is setup with the correct value resistor attached. The company has done some research on it and has sold many of them to Chevrolet owners. I think this might solve my issues. I'll post if I still have issues or the issue is resolved.

The car starts and runs great when it is at ambient temperature. I can start it several times in a row with no issues. After about 5 minutes or so of running it begins to run rough, lacks power, and acceleration. If I turn the car off and try to start it again, it will turn over fine but never start. I can let it sit for an hour or so and it starts fine. Recently, I have gone through the carburetor, distributor, generator, starting motor (was cranking slow), set the ignition timing, has new spark plugs, plug wires, no vacuum leaks that I am aware of, and the compression is good. The coil primary and secondary circuits are 1.5 ohms and 3.8k ohms. Looking for some insight on the ignition system. The coil is of the original design with a removable resistor mounted on top at the "BAT" terminal. It is an old exposed "coiled wire" type resistor and gets hot (will burn your fingers) after a minute or so of the ignition being turned on. Is this a normal temperature? If not, what can I replace it with? Is the resistor in the circuit to lengthen the point life?

I am at a loss to know what the side mount locks look like for a Durant. To be specific, they would be for a 1928 D75 Durant with side mounts and the 5 lug wire wheels. A casting is riveted to the plate on the side mount that has a center hole with an internal spline 1.0" deep and beyond that a 1/2-13 threaded blind hole. I am looking for a set of locks to fit this model. Perhaps other Durant models with the side mounts would have the same locks. A photo of the locking mechanism would be a start. Thanks

I saw your post and am curious if you want to sell the wiper motor? Thanks.

bbt

Bump

Here is the photo. Thanks