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Everything posted by RIVNIK
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thanks Tom, that's a lot of huntin' & peckin'
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I "recently" purchased an entire aluminized standard system, including hangers, for my '65. Excellent product, quick delivery, great customer service. However! the passenger side front exhaust pipe did not fit properly & refused to be tweaked into an acceptable position. Waldrons immediately sent me a new pipe which turned out to be identical to the first one. Got a pro to install it but it was difficult even for him, as the pipe resisted being bent along the proper axis. It still hangs 1"or2" below the other side, but only me & some of you guys would notice. (Have since learned of others who had similar experiences). But it sounds great, & after a year or two still looks like new. Waldrons hangers are pricey but top-notch. However, If you're handy you can search the forum for pics of some nice home-made ones, by Ed I think, & save a bundle. I was either too lazy or not handy enough, can't remember Despite the caveat, still recommend Waldrons
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Last time I purchased from them Waldrons carried three grades of Riv muffler, from stock sound to loud. Frankly the stock sound is still a little loud for my taste but sounds great. taking that into consideration I would probably not go for the louder one. They all suffer the same problem, namely they accumulate large amounts of condensation & eventually rot out before their time. This can be easily cured by drilling a small drain hole at the lower end of the muffler. You may be surprised at the occasional puddle of water that appears underneath.
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maybe when listing our cars & ages we should also include our afflictions.
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scraping stuff off with a razor blade is oddly satisfying. makes me wanna go look for something to scrape
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IMO: If you are adept at such jobs 3M spray adhesive is superior to 3M goo in a tube. It's somewhat unforgiving so one has to be confidant about proper alignment. Of course you can't use Jim's careful placement technique, but I don't remember having any difficulties.
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I love my rally wheels but what a difference those wire caps make! They really bring out the Riv's natural elegance. Too bad it's such a pain to switch from one to the other. Hard enough around here to find a reputable shop that will switch used tires from one wheel to another.
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Thanks Jim! Who knew wheels would be pale blue on the backside?! I wonder if there was an actual reason for that. Anyhoo, thanks Ed, the sealable bag w desiccant packs route seems like the way to go. I wanted to powder coat, but at $80 a pop, on top of $40 for the sandblast, it was a bit out of my range. If they were my primary wheels I would probably go the extra mile. Also I can't imagine powder coating stands up to Riv wire hubcaps much better than paint does. Those things gouge deep!
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no worries. Im right up there with you guys! Several years ago I obtained a beautiful set of rally wheels from GeneG. I was so excited to get them on the car that my stock steel rims were improperly stored, & ended up quite rusty. I now wish I had taken pics of them. They had what appeared to be their original paint, which at first appeared to be gloss black but in the right light had a strange dark navy tint to it. Anyhoo I had them blasted clean, then I primed them & gave them several coats of Krylon gloss black. I consider myself pretty handy w rattle can, but with all the convoluted surfaces on a steel wheel it has been difficult to impossible to get a perfectly even shiny coat. I was so disappointed I gave one a top coat of satin black, which gave a perfect finish but just did not look right. So I added another coat of gloss & that one actually looked better. So today Im doing the same to the others. Now I have to figure how to store them so it doesn't happen again.They will be inside a storage shed but here in muggy Fla it is hard to escape the humidity. Any suggestions about boxing, bagging, etc would be appreciated. Wish me luck. ps: on a side note, I ended up w some light pitting in places on the inner wheel surfaces where the tire makes contact. Will these cause trouble when I eventually mount new tires? A friend suggested that I use body filler on the areas, sand & repaint them. Is this necessary or a bad idea?
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Greetings, What is the proper finish for a '65 stock steel wheel & can I rattle-can it? thanks. Drew
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I sent my original to Gary Tayback, (Tayback Electrical LLC 941-371-8924) in Sarasota Fl. for conversion. Came back looking like new inside & out. Quick turnaround, easy installation w complete detailed instructions. Gary set me up w perfect fit dual-cone speakers front & rear for true stereo sound. Mic mounted at the mirror, USB plug where the cig lighter was. Gary is very likable, easy to deal with, & will explain your different options. Not cheap, but the best thing that's happened to the Riv so far. good luck, Drew
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I always wear a wrist watch and so I never paid much attention to the Rivs clock. I eventually removed it for safekeeping & installed an oil pressure gauge in its place. I shopped around the internet for a gauge with lettering & numerals that closest matched the other instruments & found one very close, which I believe was a Sun Gauge. It was an easy job, perfect fit, & absolutely the best addition I can think of for peace of mind. The clock light wire hooks right up to the gauge light & its right there in front of me. And whoever pries my cold dead hands off the wheel one day can always reinstall the clock should they prefer. Drew
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That really blows when someone sells you an unusable part! It's happened to me several times. I recently purchased a '65 shift indicator lens from a fellow forum member that was described "will clean up to show car quality" which arrived w a very obvious cigarette burn on its face. I like to retain some faith in mankind, so I don't automatically think it's intentional, maybe just that some have different views of perfection.
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I have the retractors & was planning on purchasing the retractor covers from BestOfferCounts (loads of used & repro Riv parts, good prices)until I realized they required the base plates. I kinda knew they would be rare. Too bad, retractors look a little sloppy w no covers. Anyone tried seatbelt gear from other same-era GMs? all info greatly appreciated. Drew
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Greetings Gents, I'm looking for r&l seatbelt base plates to accommodate retractor covers for my '65. I know they're scarce, any help greatly appreciated, Drew
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Greetings MrAG, I am on my 2nd set of Firestone FR380 P225/75R15 Weathermasters with absolute satisfaction. They are recommended pickup truck tires but the Riv rides like a dream on them. They do rub a tad on tight parking maneuvers, but that has never been a real problem. They have a I" whitewall & I believe they are the only 15" whitewalls available from Firestone. Its been a few years, so hopefully they still make them. good luck. Drew
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Q: What does it entail & how difficult is it to install seat belt retractor covers on my '65? thanks for any tips. Drew
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I got the sewn set. To the best of my recollection it was very accurate. I don't remember having to do any trimming. However I did have a time getting the creases out from being "folded" up & stuffed in a box. nevertheless, I've always been satisfied w my many purchases from Clarks.
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It's been a few years but Clarks was a near perfect fit for my '65. I also went for Clarks trunk carpet kit w full tire cover, all nicely bound & very well made. Not original, I know, but does justice to the Riv's elegant interior. Makes you want to climb in & sneak into the drive-in if there was one. & if you can imagine being in your trunk while someone else drives your Riv. not my wife! never mind
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If you've already purchased the car & it rides as good as you say I would spend as little as possible getting it to run better, fix the brakes, clean up the engine bay & interior, basically make any value it may have as a restomod more apparent to a potential buyer, & then try to recoup your losses. If you got a great deal on the car you may even be able to turn a small profit! However If you do choose to restore this one please keep us posted so we can watch the spectacle of you slowly losing your savings & your marbles at the same time! just sayin Sorry about the discouraging comments but as fellow Riv lovers we only want what's best for you. p.s. your trunk trim is there under the rear window. you just need the Buick letters which fill those holes in the lid
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What a saga! Hey Brian, don't you have a domestic labor force on hand? How hard would it be to unbolt the bumper and rest it on jack-stands or something similar while you refurbish the taillight assemblies. I have no '70 experience so I have no idea if that's even an option, but some bumpers come off quite easily & others do not. I believe I did this on my '65 many years ago. I was able to replace bulbs, clean up the receptacles, connections, etc & install reflective mylar behind them. You could also address your bumper filler problem. Anyway, I can't wait too see what happens next. Drew
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IMO, stock engine bays look eh dressed up w aftermarket parts or lots of chrome. The chromed air cleaner is not really going to match the brushed aluminum valve covers. You'll also pay through the nose. The whole thing can be stripped & repainted as stock, which you can do at home. BAM! you just saved $$$. The side decals are available, but I think they've stopped reproducing the aluminum Wildcat"decal". Yours looks like its already coming loose, but take great care removing it as it can be easily damaged. Also be aware the stock lid is slightly concave where the decal is applied, so it may not fit well to another surface. If you do go chrome, maybe doing just the lid would look better. You wouldn't be blinded by a chrome explosion when you open the hood. You could polish the ribs & lettering on the v-covers, & that, along with the chrome oil filler, would tie everything together. Drew
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Greetings Alan! Good to know there is a prospective fellow Riv owner in the area! they're actually pretty rare around central Fla. Ive had my '65 for 32 yrs now. I paid $6,500 for it in '92, have spent around $20,000 on repairs,paint,etc. over the years, without a single regret. Seeing as how you are not mechanically inclined though, my advice would be to locate a local mechanic who is willing, able, & trustworthy to work on the car. This has been surprisingly difficult for me, even in a metropolis like Orlando. Restoration shops, if you can find one, are very expensive. better to find a small-shop, old-school mechanic who has been working on old cars all his life. You might start attending local car shows & asking owners of similar cars for advice. As for the AC, I would make sure the Riv you choose at least has one, but frankly mine went out 20 yrs ago & I still haven't gotten around to repairing or upgrading to a new system. IMO the Riv can only be fully enjoyed & and admired w all the windows down & my arm out the window. Ive found the wind blowing through my hair immensely more pleasurable than wind whistling through the many air leaks, & that's with mostly new rubber! Anyhoo, I am not a professional mechanic but would be glad to take a look at any local candidates you come across & offer any advice or share whatever knowledge I have accumulated over the years. I also have a small trove of '65 parts you might be able to use. BTW, you've already found the most valuable source of info available. I will have to say the experience & knowledge of these guys has been invaluable over the years. If I had to do it again without them I would probably stick w my Subarus! PM me or text (407-883-6489) if you're in O-ville. Drew
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what a great forum! ask a question from half way around the globe and get a prompt answer in your own native language!