Dodgenz
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Posts posted by Dodgenz
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Could you use several layers of the black roofing paper in pieces and do something like a paper mache shape? If you use the self-supporting type it's thicker and would need less layers, but you'd need an appropriate glue being as it's pretty oily.
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Replicore here in NZ make them too. http://www.replicore.co.nz/ They don't have quite the right type for the DA from what I could find, but they should do the D2 style.
I am also after one for my D2. But yes, the cost is huge. So also on the look out for a useable second hand one.
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All sorted and have managed to get responses from both of these helpful folk. The emails got through, so I know they will work for future reference and it was more likely internet issues that was blocking them. Thanks everyone for your input.
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Ok. I'll give them another try and see what happens in another couple of weeks or so. Good things take time, as they say in the cheese adverts (here!)
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Hmmm... those are the email addresses I tried. And I don't get this funny thing about not shipping overseas - what's the problem? if someone is willing to pay just bung it in the mail! Oh well, will keep trying. Thanks everyone.
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Does anyone have any updates on email addresses for Myers and Romars? I tried Romars and had no response, and the Myers address bounced back. Not so easy(or cheap!) to phone from here... and I only just want to order a couple of simple parts.
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Mine have BBR-1's on them and run well. I get about 20mpg which doesn't seem bad considering weight, age and general overall condition of the motors, which aren't recently reconditioned. Being NZ cars we didn't get the Stromberg option - I must admit I didn't know they were the original standard.
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Hi Bob, No the carb wasn't rebuilt, as has been fine up until yesterday. I guess something (a jet or something) must be blocked in the carb as fuel is certainly getting to it. I wish I could find my starting fluid - hunted high and low for it! - may have to invest in more.
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Normally my '29 DA starts on the button, faster than any modern vehicle I've got. When it hadn't been started for over 15 years it still didn't take many spins of the flywheel, BUT today no go. It has been a couple of months, but this usually is no problem. There is plenty of fuel and a spark, but the plugs aren't getting wet, so it doesn't seem to be getting from the carb to the motor. It pours out of the 'throat' (ie where the choke is) but is not making it up into the manifold. Has our rubbish fuel just turned to water, as it seems to, because it's been in the tank more than a few weeks ? - if so why aren't the plugs wet? or is there something else i'm missing? On a downdraught carb I could just pour fresh fuel in to check this, but not so here. Before I strip it down, does anyone have any ideas?
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I have a 1960 Rover which has a similar freewheeling option, so the idea was kept going for a few years! You just wind out the knob and can change gear without the clutch and free wheel on 'overrun'. Don't mind it, but of course it's a bit harder on the brakes with no engine braking. (Currently I have no brakes at all, so not going very far, esp. in freewheel mode!)
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I have only just seen your thread re the tank dilemmas. Glad you got the tube out, I've taken both of my tanks out of my two cars and had to unscrew the filler tube each time. I think I heated one first (I fill the tank completely with water before I work on/weld them - has worked so far!). I then used a bar in the slot across the top, I guess that's what the slot is for. Believe it or not I've found these tanks really easy to get out - my '49 Daimler is a nightmare in comparison! That's because nothing would ever need to be fixed on a British car!
This is my tank cleaner... A few shovelfuls of shingle and a steady cement mixer then disappear for a few hours or so. Works quite well, you just don't want close neighbours. Previous models were running off the PTO of a tractor (in 'land drive' - i.e. jacked up while in gear) with a ground mounted frame and a wind powered one. Of course I could use tank sealer, but where's the fun in that - plus i'm not entirely sure I trust it).
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Could be. I bought both from in/around Chc - but they do travel!
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Just to keep the confusion going, I have two right hand drive D2's. One with steel and one with a soft insert. And as far as I know they are not Australian built- they have the US style windscreen. I guess they were CKD, assembled here, but I would expect the roof insert to have already been in place. Someone once said to me that sometimes the steel roof was replaced with the soft top as they had a tendency to 'drum' at speed - not that I've noticed it. It wouldn't improve your radio reception I feel.
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My DA has a pretty sturdy towbar which works fairly well. Looks like it's been on there forever (although definitely not factory!). It consists of a good piece of angle iron welded across the spare wheel carrier plus supports up to the 'rim' holding the spare wheel. Of course it's not bolted on and would have to be carefully cut off to restore to original, but it might give you some ideas. (The carrier folds up over it).
It sits quite a bit higher than a modern towball, but the trailer I use is wartime so has high 16" wheels, and it could have step formed in it to get the desired height anyway.
Hope that helps a bit.
(Merry Christmas etc!)
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Yes that looks great. I think it is the same, the outlet is at the front... will PM you Keiser.
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I've been trying to remove the heat riser (?) to repair the cracked manifold on my DA. But it looks like it is going to come off in bits as seems fairly welded in place - i'm not liking my chances. Does anyone know if these are available, or does anyone have one they might sell? Any thoughts or suggestions, or am I going to have to resort to making a flat plate to go over the end of the manifold?
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Yes... I wonder if that is related to the unusual gauge setup?? I didn't get as far checking engine numbers - too much else to look at!
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I didn't spot the OD - I didn't know there was even one made for them. What was the unit/manufacturer?
Spinneyhill - it went for $80g. (about $53US I think at the moment). That, plus 7.5% commission for Turners efforts!
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Does anyone know what the knob under the steering column is for? My sedans don't have it.
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Recently there was an auction of a collection of fine automobiles just down the road from me. This was amongst them! Very red...not sure how original that colour would be, but a rare beast in NZ. My pockets weren't deep enough.
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Looks like you could be right there Jim...my other has the more common type- I'd never noticed the difference! Hopefully Acuff can sort you out.
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Pete, yours look slightly different at the ends than mine. My moulding goes over the end of the board, whereas yours finishes short - which will make it easier to reproduce, just a flat mat. ('just'!!). Also they don't appear to come right down over the edge, maybe this is because mine in an export model.??
Jim, I get 11mm across the rounded rib...which I think is about 7/16. (That is from low side to low side of rib).
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The last three I've got at the moment Jim, but can get more easily if there's something specific you want. Hopefully between Pete and myself that will give you something to work with. I suppose a plaster cast would get you an exact replica to work from...if we wanted to get really carried away!
These are:
18mm across the flat edge piece and 22 from the edge to the big rib.
Two shots showing the big rib higher than the flat edge piece and the smaller ribs being level, as mentioned before.
Andrew
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Just a few more..
22mm is the width of the bottom edge flat (to the low point).
13mm across the small ribs.
Making new floorboards.
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
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A treated pine board should last for years. We have different levels of treatment here for different levels of exposure- H3.2 can get wet, H4 would be exposed to rain, and H5 is in the ground. I guess H3.2 would be plenty. A stain would make it period black or dark, and personally I'd use stainless screws (or you might be able to find something more shiny..).