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Posts posted by Dodgenz

  1. I haven't been on here for a while so have missed your wonderful work. Awesome stuff! It's given me fresh inspiration to get more done on mine, so finally managed to free off a seized damper/shock absorber last night after months of soaking. Where did you get the strapping for Doc's ones? Also where did you get the radiator recored?- we have Replicore here but they don't do the right type of honeycomb.

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  2. There's a good reason to give it run...  So i ended up with 2890mm, which translates to 113.78 inches. Does that make it the Plymouth version Pete? And if the wheelbase is different are the panels a different size? Nothing seems obvious although there is no chrome trim on the doors and rear, only the bonnet.


    Sorry to sort of hi-jack your thread Fernando, but i suppose this might be of some help towards clarifying your car type.

  3. A treated pine board should last for years. We have different levels of treatment here for different levels of exposure- H3.2 can get wet, H4 would be exposed to rain, and H5 is in the ground. I guess H3.2 would be plenty. A stain would make it period black or dark, and personally I'd use stainless screws (or you might be able to find something more shiny..).

  4. Could you use several layers of the black roofing paper in pieces and do something like a paper mache shape? If you use the self-supporting type it's thicker and would need less layers, but you'd need an appropriate glue being as it's pretty oily. 

  5. Hi Bob, No the carb wasn't rebuilt, as has been fine up until yesterday. I guess something (a jet or something) must be blocked in the carb as fuel is certainly getting to it. I wish I could find my starting fluid - hunted high and low for it!  - may have to invest in more.

  6. Normally my '29 DA starts on the button, faster than any modern vehicle I've got. When it hadn't been started for over 15 years it still didn't take many spins of the flywheel, BUT today no go. It has been a couple of months, but this usually is no problem. There is plenty of fuel and a spark, but the plugs aren't getting wet, so it doesn't seem to be getting from the carb to the motor. It pours out of the 'throat' (ie where the choke is) but is not making it up into the manifold. Has our rubbish fuel just turned to water, as it seems to, because it's been in the tank more than a few weeks ? - if so why aren't the plugs wet? or is there something else i'm missing? On a downdraught carb I could just pour fresh fuel in to check this, but not so here. Before I strip it down, does anyone have any ideas?

  7. I have a 1960 Rover which has a similar freewheeling option, so the idea was kept going for a few years! You just wind out the knob and can change gear without the clutch and free wheel on 'overrun'. Don't mind it, but of course it's a bit harder on the brakes with no engine braking. (Currently I have no brakes at all, so not going very far, esp. in freewheel mode!)

  8. I have only just seen your thread re the tank dilemmas. Glad you got the tube out, I've taken both of my tanks out of my two cars and had to unscrew the filler tube each time. I think I heated one first (I fill the tank completely with water before I work on/weld them - has worked so far!). I then used a bar in the slot across the top, I guess that's what the slot is for. Believe it or not I've found these tanks really easy to get out - my '49 Daimler is a nightmare in comparison! That's because nothing would ever need to be fixed on a British car!


    This is my tank cleaner...  A few shovelfuls of shingle and a steady cement mixer then disappear for a few hours or so. Works quite well, you just don't want close neighbours. Previous models were running off the PTO of a tractor (in 'land drive'  - i.e. jacked up while in gear) with a ground mounted frame and a wind powered one. Of course I could use tank sealer, but where's the fun in that - plus i'm not entirely sure I trust it).



    tank cleaner MKIII.jpg

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