ligurian
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Posts posted by ligurian
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Friend of mine ran up this neat little item that is perfect for center drilling round shafts in sizes from 3/16" to 1/2". There is a 'V' notch for larger round stock. This jig allows you to drill a pilot hole quickly.
If you've ever changed out the brake rods on a mechanical brake system you know how many cotter pins have to be drilled. BRASS CAR guys should definitely have one. I've also found it very useful for throttle linkage and just anything that requires a cotter pin. It also came in handy when I had to make odd-ball clevis pins. The dimensions are 1" x. 3". It is hardened. I paid $60 for mine.
Walt Federline in Frederick, Maryland, is making them. His number is 301-695-9110. www.federlineproducts.com/
I used it yesterday to pin a sleeve on a shaft. Perfect.
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Friend of mine ran up this neat little item that is perfect for center drilling round shafts in sizes from 3/16" to 1/2". There is a 'V' notch for larger round stock. This jig allows you to drill a pilot hole quickly.
If you've ever changed out the brake rods on a mechanical brake system you know how many cotter pins have to be drilled. BRASS CAR guys should definitely have one. I've also found it very useful for throttle linkage and just anything that requires a cotter pin. It also came in handy when I had to make odd-ball clevis pins. The dimensions are 1" x. 3". It is hardened. I paid $60 for mine.
Walt Federline in Frederick, Maryland, is making them. His number is 301-695-9110. www.federlineproducts.com/
I used it yesterday to pin a sleeve on a shaft. Perfect for the job.
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Friend of mine ran up this neat little item that is perfect for center drilling round shafts in sizes from 3/16" to 1/2". There is a 'V' notch for larger round stock. This jig allows you to drill a pilot hole quickly.
If you've ever changed out the brake rods on a mechanical brake system you know how many cotter pins have to be drilled. BRASS CAR guys should definitely have one. I've also found it very useful for throttle linkage and just anything that requires a cotter pin. It also came in handy when I had to make odd-ball clevis pins. The dimensions are 1" x. 3". It is hardened. I paid $60 for mine.
Walt Federline in Frederick, Maryland, is making them. His number is 301-695-9110. www.federlineproducts.com/
I used it yesterday to pin a sleeve on a shaft. Easy as pie.
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It's a quality piece. Hardened.
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Friend of mine ran up this neat little item that is perfect for center drilling round shafts in sizes from 3/16" to 1/2". There is a 'V' notch for larger round stock. This jig allows you to drill a pilot hole quickly. If you've ever changed out the brake rods on a mechanical brake system you know how many cotter pins have to be drilled. BRASS CAR guys should definitely have one. I've also found it very useful for throttle linkage and just anything that requires a cotter pin. It also came in handy when I had to make odd-ball clevis pins. The dimensions are 1" x. 3".
Walt Federline in Frederick, Maryland, is making them. His number is 301-695-9110.
I just think it's the cat's ass.
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Have a Barrett Equipment Co. (St. Louis, MO) Drum Doktor. Before disc brakes there were these things called brake drums. Yes it's true and this machine is for resurfacing these selfsame items. Attachments, mounted to a rolling table, operational and in fairly good shape. This is for pick up, in that it is large. Located in the Frederick, MD area. How about $475.
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Jay, you have a hard row to hoe. My father owned the only Model A Empire (1910), and he went to Hershey from 1955 until his death and I've been going since and the only part we ever found for any Empire was a hub cap.
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Guy up in Lewistown, PA has a 1901 Locomobile he's peddling. 717-248-6170
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Two 25" rims with wheels. Rims are pitted but sound as are the wheels. All the lugs and bolts. Takes a 2 9/16" hub cap.
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I have a pair of "split" rims and wheels. Rims are Firestone #10E4, 34X4 1/2, used on Case, Haynes, Holmes, Hudson, Maxwell, Peerless, and others. Rims are pitted where they sat, but they are sound as are the wheels. Wheels were manufactured by Swartz. The hubs take a 2 9/16" hub cap. Asking $350 for the pair.
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Question: Was the Moyer a 24 volt car?
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Fuel mileage. Modern steam powered vehicles can't seem to break the 16 mpg barrier.
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Is there a website that lists the names of car dealerships? I've been trying to find the name of the Oldsmobile dealer that was located in Washington, DC when I was a lad and I can't find a historical site that answers this question.
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Does anyone reproduce pyramid-pattern aluminum plate like was used on early cars and fire apparatus?
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As it turns out the body is for a 1911 Warren-Detroit. Which is lucky because I have one whose body was burn up in a fire. ;-)
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I wish I could remember the details, but it seems there was a gentleman in California several years ago that had converted his non-condensing Stanley to LP. There was a leak, the car caught fire, he was killed and several of his passengers were severely burned. Again, I can't remember the details.
Jim Showers
1921 Stanley 735B
Got this on line:
1gal. Propane = 91600 BTUs
1gal. Kerosene = 135000 BTUs
To heat 1,000,000 BTUs it would cost:
10.91 gals of Propane x (price per gal) = Cost (to heat 1mil btu)
7.4 gals of kerosene x (price per gal) = Cost (to heat 1mil btu)
Remember this is at 100% efficiency.
If you are working with something less efficient you must multiply the fuel btu by the efficiency.
For example:
Propane Furnace that is 80% efficient.
1,000,000 / (91600 x .8) = 13.6 gals
13.6 gals x (price per gal) = Cost (to heat 1mil btu)
Kerosene furnace that is 60% efficient.
1,000,000 / (135,000 x .6) = 12.3 gals
12.3 gals x (price per gal) = Cost (to heat 1mil btu)
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Looks to me like there was already a "fire in it".
Ha! The fire is for the Stanley. The Warren has already had its fire. I keep forgetting that these things are read by all.
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Alan, you've come up in the world. An American. Wow. Just picked up throttle and spark levers for my 1911 Warren-Detroit project off of ebay. They're aluminum and 7" across the semi-circle. In other news, working hard on the Model 70. Hope to get it into the paint buy by June 1st. It's crunch time if I hope to get a fire in it before then. I'll send you a pic of the Warren. It's a mess.
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I just realized I didn't post the pictures of how the carb and vacuum tank turned out after Hattie's Garage did a rebuild. I also installed a new fuel line. The fuel tank checked out in good shape. Car started up strong with the right 6-volt cables.
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I did. Is that all? People will have to read down to know that the car is no longer available. Is that a problem?
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Nice to see young guys wanting the Dodges. I've always felt that the 1917-27 Dodges were twice the car that the Model T ever was and yet they go for a third of the money and are hard to sell at that. Hobbyists have to do some research before buying the "iconic" Model T. If they did, the old Dodges would be in demand. Oh well... I'm going to delete this thread because I don't know how to change the 'slug' saying the car is for sale. I've received a complaint (see above).
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One thing I noticed about the engine is that it seems to have the air passage way (to the carb through the block) blanked off so no filter. There is an air temp regulator set up directly on the back of the carb carb. I was wondering why someone would do this?
I also noticed half a dozen fuses have been fitted.
Would anyone else have observations we could discuss?
Ray.
The wiring is a mess. The new owner's anxious to make it right. I don't know about the carb although I don't think anything is blanked off.
anybody driving to Oregon from the east coast?
in General Discussion
Posted
I have a radiator a friend in Portland, OR, wants. Anybody driving west with some room... I'm in Maryland. Mike Zerega