QGolden

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Everything posted by QGolden

  1. Be careful with the fan if/when you change it out. Old fans on Model A's are notorious for having small cracks that fail catastrophically at full engine RPM's. I do not know if it would or could apply to your application, but if it were to come apart at 2,000 RPM's it would sure do damage to the hood and radiator. The PO might have put a 'lectric one on for that reason. Try to find a new repop if you can.
  2. That is a good sign!
  3. Very nice! How did you make out with the Mass Reg?
  4. Nice, I wish you luck with the Mass Reg. Hopefully it goes well for you. I like these turn signals as an option. J&P Cycles® Custom Bullet Marker Lights | 3300045 | J&P Cycles
  5. Good Speedster start. Does it run?
  6. Hi Shawn, Where are you in NE? I am in NH. Love the Cycle Fenders. That is a unique car.
  7. BillP, Wow, those are nice. I love cycle fenders, I am putting them on my current Speedster Build.
  8. The only ignorant question is the one you do not ask! We all get a little smarter by asking questions. I can only speak for an Ford Model A, but it is easy on an A. There is a bracket under the fuel tank that supports the steering column If you are using the original tank, you get or make a longer bracket. There is a hole in the floor, and you are probably going to replace the floor, but if not, then the hole needs to elongated a bit. Where the steering box is bolts to the frame yo remove the two bolts, tilt the column down where you want it, and re-drill the frame to put the bolts back in. I have a set of the Rootlieb kit instructions, it covers the steering column, but leaves a lot for you to figure out.:confused:.. If you want a copy, let me know, I would be happy to share.
  9. That is exactly how I am building mine.
  10. Well I'm not familiar with the Studebaker parts, but one thing you might do is to move the radiator forward, off of the front cross member Make a new cross member mounted to the bottom of the frame rails and mount the radiator there That will lower the radiator about 4 or 5 inches, and lengthen the hood and cowl, which will give it a longer lower look. Some people do not like the look of the radiator in front of the front axle, but to me, if it has been dropped, then it looks good That is of course in m opinion
  11. It would be nice if there were a few speedster body builders around,,,,
  12. Nice looking car, I would like to see some photos of the rear deck as well. That looks like it was well designed.
  13. Doug is spot on. The following is my opinion: Their are two places to start with any speedster design, and they are directly related to each other, and each is as important as the other. The Radiator Shroud and the Steering Wheel. You need to determine the optimum height for the steering wheel. But there is a relationship with the steering wheel height and the Cowl/dashboard height. You need to see over the cowl comfortably and not have to look around to see the gauges. That puts the cowl/steering wheel to the seat in relationship with each other. The cowl on the other hand, is in constant visual relationship with the Hood. The cowl should start level with the hood and slope up a bit to the windshield/dashboard. Of course the Hood needs to start at the radiator shroud. Alternately, the cowl could be flat if it is raised a bit above the hood. You can get away with a completely flat hood to cowl if the front of the Speedster is lower than the rear by a couple of inches. Then the hood and cowl appear to have some rake because the front end is lower. In my opinion, unless you are building a replica era race car, an all flat Radiator Shroud to dashboard looks off. I sometimes see hoodless rods or speedsters and the radiator shroud is higher than the cowl, in my opinion that never looks right to me. To start a speedster build, you need to set your steering wheel height in relationship to the seat and your physical size. Build your mount for the radiator shroud and mount it. Use strips of masking tape to simulate the hood lines to the firewall. Using cardboard as a template build the dashboard. Use masking tape to simulate the cowl lines from the firewall to the dashboard. Then adjust and tweak until it looks and feels right. Drawing it out on the computer helps an overall and gives you proportions to wheel size etc, but does not take into account your body size, length of your legs and arms. You need to be comfortable and safely reach all of the controls. From the drivers seat back, the sky is the limit, bullets, turtle decks, boat tails, all are good. Note that my thoughts are geared towards an enclosed body speedster, not a Rootlieb type. The open cars have different lines to work with, particularly in seat height to steering wheel relationship.
  14. Very cool project. It looks to me that if you were sitting in the seat you probably could not reach the dash without leaning forward. One thing you could do (from my view anyway) is to pull the current dash and windshield mount, save them aside. Install a lower seat an Lower the steering column. Then build a new dashboard that you can reach while sitting in the seat. Then fabricate a cowel to fill the space between the dash and the firewall. No permanent changes, and it could be switched back at any time while giving you a longer looking hood line.
  15. He was asking $2,000. I do not know what he sold it for. If he was.closer to me I would have snapped it up, but shipping something like that when I cannot drive to it and see it, is beyond my comfort zone. I have the pictures, I am travelling tonight and on my tablet, I cannot seem to upload pics on this forum with the tablet. I'll post the pictures as soon as I can.
  16. Jpv, If you are building, why not move the cowl back and make the hood longer? I am using a stock length hood, but making a longer cowl to give the longer look.
  17. I did not think it would last long, this morning I see it has sold.
  18. Hi, This is not mine, and I have no knowledge or financial interest it. But I thought that someone here might be interested in this: Decent price I think it will go quick. 1915 Saxon Roadster (Ford Chassis) - The Ford Barn -Q
  19. As light as it is, I would not think you would need to tighten up the ride. A lot of folks take out a spring or two to soften it. But, whtbaron is right on for a good looking windshield. The T Parts always look at home on a T Speedster. But the decision is all about what you want to spend. You could probably drop a ready made windshield from Rootlieb right on the cowl. I have see some nice windshields with a homemade frame made by slitting a piece of 1 inch Black Iron Gas Pipe, installing the glass with the Black Silicone they use to mount windshield glass today. I got a sample of a rubber windshield mount gasket that fits into 1 inch tube if I make mine. I got it from a house that sells tube kits to Dune Buggy Builders, I can look up their name if you want. That method looks easy, cut and form the tube to the desired shape, leaving the top removable, insert the rubber, lubricate the rubber with talc, slide in the glass from the top, afix the top trapping the glass. If the bend across the bottom of the cowl is an issue for fabrication with the tools you have at hand, I have seen some done where the bottom track is wood, easy to trace and cut along the cowel line for the bottom cut, leave the top flat and slot it so the bottom of the glass sits in the wood in the slot, and the pipe frame sides mounted to the wood and down to the cowel. I have also seen small window glass from Wing Windows mounted so the driver and passenger each have their own windshield. Those are nice because you can mount them in a bit of a V and tipped back. I am sure that you would like to engineer in aerodynamics where you can! Stop by a windshield shop and talk to them, perhaps an existing windshield out of a 40's Jeep (which would be small, and flat) might be a stock item for their supplier, hence it could be inexpensive. Merge the look you want with the budget you have, and don't look back.
  20. Very nice job. Well done. I see in your signature that you have a 47 Harley WLC,Is it in full Military Regalia? I used to have a 45 WR, (flat track racer) Great little flathead. I also currently have a late model Royal Enfield Bullet with Side Car. Fun bike, handles like the 45 WR, a bit laggy with the Sidecar, but gets a lot of attention.
  21. I agree, but on this car, it seems to work, the height and the open spokes, the wrapped exhaust, its cool.
  22. Yah, me too, I am in NH, I have the shop space and a good layout to work in, all the equipment that I need, but is is not heated. I can do some work in the winter under my heat lamps and infra red propane heater, but it will be much easier in a month or so. For the winter I have been buying parts and stuff. I have a good running chassis ready to strip and most of my parts. Still looking for a few. Hoping to have all of my parts in house, so when I can start I can move right along with few interruptions.
  23. Sharp car. I like the way you have mounted the front fenders. One of the challenges with cycle fenders is to mount them while hiding the brackets to the best of your ability resulting in clean lines. But you have gone against convention and incorporated the mounting into your overall look. Brilliant. Sort of a "Steampunk" look my kids would say. There is a lot of "Steampunk" that fits vintage speedsters in exposed rivets, mounting brackets etc. Are you going to install rear fenders? Question about the wrappings on the front leafs? Does it serve a function or is it purely visual? -Q
  24. I agree, it is all a matter of taste and my taste lies with a more enclosed body as well. The Rootlieb bodies are nice, on an A or ,but too open for me, especially with New England Driving and all weather conditions. Right now I am building an A Model Speedster. I am not a fan of the Faultless bodies, but I like the way they are more enclosed. My wife describes to it as sitting in the car vs on the car. A great deal of thought needs to go into proportions as the OP of this thread indicates. If you go to the nwvs website click on Speedsters, then scroll down to number 917. John Black did an excellent job of building a wood boat tail A Model Speedster. On his page you will see a link to his construction story where he goes into great detail regarding the proportional layout of visual appeal. But as in all creations, beauty is in the eye of the beholder. For me, right now it is to build an A Model Speedster/pickup that does not look like a tractor, nor an RPU but looks authentic and in proportion. I have poured over hundreds of pictures, probably close to a thousand to measure and make notes of what works and what does not. From a Design perspective this is on of the better examples of well thought out proportion that I have seen in a speedster. Although I would bring the cowl back a bit further so the Dash was within reach of the driver while sitting back in the seat. The higher side that you step over to get in eliminates the need for doors and subsequently makes it easier for fabrication and strength, but put you "in" rather than "on" the car. This on (If I attached it right) as well is a great example of the look I am after, but instead of a turtle deck on the back, I will use a scaled-appropriate pickup bed.