QGolden

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Posts posted by QGolden


  1. Hey Joe

    I'be been following your build since the beginning, it has been a source of inspiration for mine. I understand that sometimes projects need to move on, I wish you the best, and if you start another one, come back. Mine is actually a little further along than this, but things slow down in the winter!

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  2. Drive on brother , it's your build, ain't no right or wrong to it. Take that engine, clean it up, remove the hoses, wires, air cleaner etc, paint the whole thing Battleship Grey. Paint the alternator, manifolds, brackets, etc Black. It will look just fine.


  3. Wow, nice anvil work on that outlet pipe, and I like the collector. That is turning into a cool build. That you for sharing. Where on earth did you acquire all of those airplane parts? That is a great pile of parts to pick from.


  4. Another option to the Mustang Radiator is a Radiator from a Ford 8N Tractor. It is shorter than a Model A (which is what my Speedster is made from), and it has a unique outlet pipe at the bottom with a Dogleg bend. The bend lets you set it in Front of the Crossmember on the Frame Horns (After you build a new crossmember on the bottom of the Frame Horns.) this moves the Radiator foward to lengthen the hood line, about 4 inches, and lowers the hood line as well. On mine I was able to lower the hood 4 inches without cutting down the Radiator shroud, so it is lower, yet full height. In the image you can see how the outlet bends up and then back.

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  5. Boojoe! Nice job on the wheels and a great story. You ought to send Stutzmans a link to this thread. No heat in my shop here in NH so my build is slowing to a crawl. I just bought the Sheetmetal, door hinges, and latches.


  6. Most folks build a "Speedster" by using a stock frame rather than build. If you build your frame and Z it, would it be a Speedster or a Hot Rod, actually there is a fine line between the two. I used a Model A Frame, lowered the suspension by recurving spring eyes and removing leafs, and using smaller diameter tires. I then fabricated a shorter cowl, lowered the steering column, and lowered the radiator shroud by moving it forward of the cross member and buiding a new cross member to hold a shorter radiator. This lowered and lengthened the Hood line. That gave me about a 8 inch drop over all to the body lines and 3 inch drop in the rear with about 5 inch drop in the front. All done with stock parts.

    I have the illusion of longer by going lower, stretching the hood, and able to retain the stock brake parts and radius rods.


  7. There really is not much published on Model A Speedsters, mostly because they are a phenomenon of the later part of the 20th centruy. During the Model A era, folks like the idea of being in an enclosed car, out of the weather. While there were a few speedster type cars on the road, the closed, weather tight, moderatly heated cab was quite an appeal during a time when 3/4 of the population was still in Horse and buggy and most T's were open to the weather. Most cars had leather or oilcloth tops, and after a few years you were back in the weather. But the A had a hard roof option. And it was affordable.

    Soft tops whether they opened or not, (not all soft tops were intended to open) were sold at about the same rate as the Hard top closed cab, despite the fact that they cost less, I think if the price were equal, then the hard top would have outsold the soft top by a long shot.

    The convertble car casually ripping around the countryside was just not part of the vernacular in the late 20's early 30's to the common man, and the common man was Henry’s customer.

    The "A" Speedster is a creation of more modern times as a salute and throwback to allure of the open wheel county fair dirt track racers that many Model A's were eventually turned into. It just so happens that in many states they are titled as Model A's and legal for road use.


  8. Yes, if you can see the stamping from the back side the plate is made from a zinc alloy, the aluminum would crack if stamped that thin and sharp. The zinc alloy is softer, but a sacrificial element, so it needs to be coated anywhere where it makes a steel contact. The body is painted under the plate and the rivets are brass, so no direct steel contact.


  9. http://www.crcindustries.com/ei/product_detail.aspx?id=SL3131

    Short Fiber is an old name for Drum Brake Bearing Grease, it is used in slow speed industrial applications where EP (extreme pressure) grease is not required. It is still readily available.

    Rusty is spot on, tightening the cap puts the lube where you want it, but you should take it apartnand make sure the tube down below the cup is clear. They cake up after a few decades.


  10. I have the same parts washer, (HF?) no filter, but it is a good idea. I use Kerosene as well. Works good, although I need to throttle back the flow from the pump. It has too much pressure and splashes about when you take the hose off to the brush and just want a rinse flow.


  11. That is one impressive motor. Don't see many Air cooled Speedsters.

    Do you know what the engine specs are?

    Yes on the Seatbelts, this is what I have selected for the Speedster I am building now. Just give some serious thought as to what you are attaching them too. Even in a relatively slow speed collision, the forward momentum in the human body is several times its weight.

    I think in a Speedster these are perfect. http://wescoperformance.stores.yahoo.net/am4point.html

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  12. Nice project, I hope you can work the transport out. If you are a member over at the H.A.M.B you might try posting there as well. Also over at the Ford Barn, although if you post at the Barn, Take a moment to introduce yourself, tell folks what you are trying to accomplish, and that you realize that this request is not Ford Related. Some folks over there get a little uptight over errant postings. But hundreds of those guys to to Harshly.