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Everything posted by QGolden

  1. Looks good. What are your seats from?
  2. That is one impressive motor. Don't see many Air cooled Speedsters. Do you know what the engine specs are? Yes on the Seatbelts, this is what I have selected for the Speedster I am building now. Just give some serious thought as to what you are attaching them too. Even in a relatively slow speed collision, the forward momentum in the human body is several times its weight. I think in a Speedster these are perfect. http://wescoperformance.stores.yahoo.net/am4point.html
  3. BillP, Wow, those are nice. I love cycle fenders, I am putting them on my current Speedster Build.
  4. The only ignorant question is the one you do not ask! We all get a little smarter by asking questions. I can only speak for an Ford Model A, but it is easy on an A. There is a bracket under the fuel tank that supports the steering column If you are using the original tank, you get or make a longer bracket. There is a hole in the floor, and you are probably going to replace the floor, but if not, then the hole needs to elongated a bit. Where the steering box is bolts to the frame yo remove the two bolts, tilt the column down where you want it, and re-drill the frame to put the bolts back
  5. That is exactly how I am building mine.
  6. Well I'm not familiar with the Studebaker parts, but one thing you might do is to move the radiator forward, off of the front cross member Make a new cross member mounted to the bottom of the frame rails and mount the radiator there That will lower the radiator about 4 or 5 inches, and lengthen the hood and cowl, which will give it a longer lower look. Some people do not like the look of the radiator in front of the front axle, but to me, if it has been dropped, then it looks good That is of course in m opinion
  7. Nice looking car, I would like to see some photos of the rear deck as well. That looks like it was well designed.
  8. Doug is spot on. The following is my opinion: Their are two places to start with any speedster design, and they are directly related to each other, and each is as important as the other. The Radiator Shroud and the Steering Wheel. You need to determine the optimum height for the steering wheel. But there is a relationship with the steering wheel height and the Cowl/dashboard height. You need to see over the cowl comfortably and not have to look around to see the gauges. That puts the cowl/steering wheel to the seat in relationship with each other. The cowl on the other hand, is in constan
  9. Very cool project. It looks to me that if you were sitting in the seat you probably could not reach the dash without leaning forward. One thing you could do (from my view anyway) is to pull the current dash and windshield mount, save them aside. Install a lower seat an Lower the steering column. Then build a new dashboard that you can reach while sitting in the seat. Then fabricate a cowel to fill the space between the dash and the firewall. No permanent changes, and it could be switched back at any time while giving you a longer looking hood line.
  10. Jpv, If you are building, why not move the cowl back and make the hood longer? I am using a stock length hood, but making a longer cowl to give the longer look.
  11. As light as it is, I would not think you would need to tighten up the ride. A lot of folks take out a spring or two to soften it. But, whtbaron is right on for a good looking windshield. The T Parts always look at home on a T Speedster. But the decision is all about what you want to spend. You could probably drop a ready made windshield from Rootlieb right on the cowl. I have see some nice windshields with a homemade frame made by slitting a piece of 1 inch Black Iron Gas Pipe, installing the glass with the Black Silicone they use to mount windshield glass today. I got a sample of a rub
  12. I agree, but on this car, it seems to work, the height and the open spokes, the wrapped exhaust, its cool.
  13. Yah, me too, I am in NH, I have the shop space and a good layout to work in, all the equipment that I need, but is is not heated. I can do some work in the winter under my heat lamps and infra red propane heater, but it will be much easier in a month or so. For the winter I have been buying parts and stuff. I have a good running chassis ready to strip and most of my parts. Still looking for a few. Hoping to have all of my parts in house, so when I can start I can move right along with few interruptions.
  14. Sharp car. I like the way you have mounted the front fenders. One of the challenges with cycle fenders is to mount them while hiding the brackets to the best of your ability resulting in clean lines. But you have gone against convention and incorporated the mounting into your overall look. Brilliant. Sort of a "Steampunk" look my kids would say. There is a lot of "Steampunk" that fits vintage speedsters in exposed rivets, mounting brackets etc. Are you going to install rear fenders? Question about the wrappings on the front leafs? Does it serve a function or is it purely visual? -Q
  15. I agree, it is all a matter of taste and my taste lies with a more enclosed body as well. The Rootlieb bodies are nice, on an A or ,but too open for me, especially with New England Driving and all weather conditions. Right now I am building an A Model Speedster. I am not a fan of the Faultless bodies, but I like the way they are more enclosed. My wife describes to it as sitting in the car vs on the car. A great deal of thought needs to go into proportions as the OP of this thread indicates. If you go to the nwvs website click on Speedsters, then scroll down to number 917. John Black did an e
  16. Nice pic Howard, I wonder what the extension on the exhaust is for?
  17. That would be a nice find, looks like it has doors on it?
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