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About QGolden

  • Birthday 11/26/1960

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  1. Hey Joe I'be been following your build since the beginning, it has been a source of inspiration for mine. I understand that sometimes projects need to move on, I wish you the best, and if you start another one, come back. Mine is actually a little further along than this, but things slow down in the winter!
  2. Looks good. What are your seats from?
  3. Drive on brother , it's your build, ain't no right or wrong to it. Take that engine, clean it up, remove the hoses, wires, air cleaner etc, paint the whole thing Battleship Grey. Paint the alternator, manifolds, brackets, etc Black. It will look just fine.
  4. Wow, nice anvil work on that outlet pipe, and I like the collector. That is turning into a cool build. That you for sharing. Where on earth did you acquire all of those airplane parts? That is a great pile of parts to pick from.
  5. Another option to the Mustang Radiator is a Radiator from a Ford 8N Tractor. It is shorter than a Model A (which is what my Speedster is made from), and it has a unique outlet pipe at the bottom with a Dogleg bend. The bend lets you set it in Front of the Crossmember on the Frame Horns (After you build a new crossmember on the bottom of the Frame Horns.) this moves the Radiator foward to lengthen the hood line, about 4 inches, and lowers the hood line as well. On mine I was able to lower the hood 4 inches without cutting down the Radiator shroud, so it is lower, yet full height. In the image you can see how the outlet bends up and then back.
  6. Boojoe! Nice job on the wheels and a great story. You ought to send Stutzmans a link to this thread. No heat in my shop here in NH so my build is slowing to a crawl. I just bought the Sheetmetal, door hinges, and latches.
  7. Most folks build a "Speedster" by using a stock frame rather than build. If you build your frame and Z it, would it be a Speedster or a Hot Rod, actually there is a fine line between the two. I used a Model A Frame, lowered the suspension by recurving spring eyes and removing leafs, and using smaller diameter tires. I then fabricated a shorter cowl, lowered the steering column, and lowered the radiator shroud by moving it forward of the cross member and buiding a new cross member to hold a shorter radiator. This lowered and lengthened the Hood line. That gave me about a 8 inch drop over all to the body lines and 3 inch drop in the rear with about 5 inch drop in the front. All done with stock parts. I have the illusion of longer by going lower, stretching the hood, and able to retain the stock brake parts and radius rods.
  8. There really is not much published on Model A Speedsters, mostly because they are a phenomenon of the later part of the 20th centruy. During the Model A era, folks like the idea of being in an enclosed car, out of the weather. While there were a few speedster type cars on the road, the closed, weather tight, moderatly heated cab was quite an appeal during a time when 3/4 of the population was still in Horse and buggy and most T's were open to the weather. Most cars had leather or oilcloth tops, and after a few years you were back in the weather. But the A had a hard roof option. And it was affordable. Soft tops whether they opened or not, (not all soft tops were intended to open) were sold at about the same rate as the Hard top closed cab, despite the fact that they cost less, I think if the price were equal, then the hard top would have outsold the soft top by a long shot. The convertble car casually ripping around the countryside was just not part of the vernacular in the late 20's early 30's to the common man, and the common man was Henry’s customer. The "A" Speedster is a creation of more modern times as a salute and throwback to allure of the open wheel county fair dirt track racers that many Model A's were eventually turned into. It just so happens that in many states they are titled as Model A's and legal for road use.
  9. Dwight, Those are some great seats!
  10. Sorry to hear you have been out of circulation. I hope things continue to be better. Looking forward to your build progressing.
  11. Motion Industries carries Lubriplate, multiple locations in most every state. They are Industrial suppliers.
  12. When new from HF there was a fiber filter at the pump inlet, but they don't seem to carry replacements, I like the Scotch Brite idea.
  13. From the looks of the wear I would question how hard it is. Have you tried to drill it (drill press only). Try a carbide drill or small endmill, it may only be surface hardened if you get through the first .30 or so it may give way. If so then replace it with a pin made of D2 or A10.
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