trafalger

oh wow uship just went bonkers...its already down to $750 i guess people are bidding against each other now....so exciting!

Ok I'm checking with another friend that drives trucks..he's seeing if he's got a load running that far west.

I've got her up on uship so we'll try and see if that comes up with something better.

To add its not for lack of trying however, Roy has been great in trying to get me the car he's been nothing but helpful and I really do appreciate that....

I've gotten 2 quotes so far and both have been over 1000 bucks. The cheapest was 1.25 a mile and its 1029 miles between me and Roy At that point it's not really an option for me to give the car a home It sucks but that's the way it goes sometimes, the good news is that Roy has someone from his church that wanted the car so she will find a home. Regrettably I don't think it will be with me

Yeowza Mcnutt wanted over a 1000 to ship it...

Has anyone here ever used uship? I'm trying to get a quote on shipping the car but it acts like it wants me to let people bid on it instead of getting a quote. I want to check prices before i commit but it doesn't look like it's letting me do that. Any ideas? I've also reached out to McNutt to see what they can do.

If Roy and I can work out the logistics I've offered to buy the car I'm just working out shipping now and Roy is going to try to find some tires so she'll roll around. Cross your fingers

There is really no concern just my OCD in making the dash work like it says it does in the book But now that I know it's quirks it's ok

Thanks for that glad to know I'm not crazy...lol

I'm honestly not sure but I know if I ground the terminals when the car is at temp the cold light does not come on.

Oh wow I'd love to find that thread. Do you happen to remember the car?

Ok here we go I think I have finally solved the mystery of the "HOT" lamp. So here is where the temp sensor is on my car. As you can see i've already taken it out. And this is what it looked like.... GROSS...I'm assuming this was the factory one so it's been in this car for 50 years. Unbelievably it came out with no force at all. Luckily my local NAPA had one of these left in stock. So I rushed out and grabbed it to install. I installed it and turned the key and still only the "COLD" lamp would light. SON OF A ***** it wasn't the actual issue...but then I had a thought. Ok now I KNOW the temp sensor is good meaning I can trust it, so I broke out the book and looked at the dash section. It said that when you turn the key to on the dash will send a ground signal to the temp sensor to 'force' it to illuminate so that you can test the bulbs. Knowing that and knowing that my sensor was now definitely working, I decided to use my test lamp to ground the terminal for COLD. Sure enough it had power. So then I decided to test the terminal for HOT, as soon as I grounded the terminal with my test lamp not only did the lamp light meaning power was flowing to the lamp but the dash light came on!! I think I know what's going on now, but just on a hunch I switched the terminals for COLD and HOT and sure enough the "HOT" lamp came on and the cold stayed off, I started the car and the "HOT" lamp came on (but remember in this case HOT is really COLD) so after it reached temp the HOT lamp went off. So I switched the leads back and turn the car off again, this time just turning the key to ON I was able to verify at the bottom of the terminals that they were receiving power. But this time the COLD lamp did not light....hmmmmmm Then it hit me...I know exactly what is going on now. The problem was never my sensor per say, it was the dash all long, but it wasn't the dash lamp or the mechanism that makes the lamps light. It was the ground, sometime in my car's past life someone must have futzed around with the dash and as a result the dash no longer grounds the lamps when the key is turned to "ON" The reason the COLD lamp would light before wasn't because it was force grounded by the dash but because it was actually COLD. I had never noticed this until I tried to put the switch in ON again and noticed the COLD lamp didn't light. The dash never overrides the sensors to test the lamps, like the book says it does. Even tho the HOT lamp doesn't light on "ON" I have verified that it does get power and can be turned on with a simple ground, meaning that I can now trust it's going to come on when it actually reaches HOT, which was the whole point of this whole exercise anyways. I just want to make sure I can trust the lamps on my dash, and now I can. I probably will never worry about fixing that ground since it would entail me taking the whole damn dash off and tracing out each wire which is a bit excessive for that. And even then if I really wanted to do it quick all I'd need to do is run a ground wire from the temp terminals to the body. Either way HURRAY :cool: now at least I know I have a brand new temp sensor that works and will report on issues.

Will an aftermarket one from napa fit it or is this going to be one of those "oh the hole is too big and we've not made that part to fit that in 40 years" type of things.

Do you have some examples and I'll take a look...is that a kit? I'd like to get that reading right before I take her on a big long trip.

Is this it? I"m guessing one is hot and one is cold?

If you could point me in the direction of said sender unit that would be a huge help.

I do not...and the book is not much help with that one. But would that make the dash light not work?

The guy called me back and I told him i really needed a price to put out to the guys. He asked me what I thought and I told him that since it's not running and a 4 door he's looking at between 500-900 dollars max since someone would be taking a chance. He didn't seem totally turned off to that.

Well the cold lamp turns off fine. The problem is the HOT lamp never comes on and according to the book turning the key to start is supposed to illuminate all the lights on the dash (for testing) they all light except for the HOT lamp. It does this by simulating a ground connection which makes the lamp light up. I've gotten under the dash and tested the leads and all appears fine. So i'm not sure if the problem is with the lamp socket or with the ground mechanism. The dash is a pressed control board so it's not just a whole socket you can't remove. Anyone have any ideas what this could be OR have a work around. I'm not as worried about that lamp as I am just making sure I have a way to tell if I'm running HOT or not.

Hey guys, I got an odd phone call last nite from a guy who looked me up as "an old buick guy" He's got a 1965 Buick Special he's looking to sell. I'm working on getting pictures, but here is what I know right now. It's does NOT run, he thinks the PO took the distributor cap off to "tinker" with it and got over his head and couldn't put it back together. But he's fairly sure it's all there. He said it's got some light body rust, I've asked him to take pictures from every side of the car, from the interior and under the hood. He's located in Rockingham NC which is about an hour west of me, he didn't give me a price when I asked saying only "i just wanna see what I can get outta it" I wish I had more info but I promised him I would ask since he doesn't want it to goto the crusher. If I find out more info I'll pass it along here. I did find out he just sold is 1970 Skylark all restored for 5k I wish he had called me sooner on that one. If anyone is interested please PM me and I'll shoot you his number.

How can i get this shipped to NC...i need ideas people!!

god i wish this was closer to me..it's killing me

HOT Light.. When I turn my key the cold lamp lights up and so do the other lamps, except for the HOT light. In the manual it says that the switch is grounded when you turn the switch on to force it to light up so you can test the light. I've crawled under the dash and tested the leads on the terminal and they have power, but the lamp never lights. I've tried moving the cold lamp bulb to the hot spot and it still does not light. The book is not much help on this one...has anyone else ever ran across anything like this? Is there somewhere on the car I can test other than that bulb spot to make sure that the temp is working and it's not just the lamp. The cold lamp DOES go on and off like normal.