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Everything posted by morerevsm3

  1. second look, they are completely different...
  2. I am a couple of hours from Melbourne and have spares if '27 are the same... ">http://http://s5.photobucket.com/user/morerevsm3/media/Buick/001_zpseg27zalk.jpg.html'>
  3. checking my float level after your success, mine is a good 1/2" below where it should be, so have pulled out float, which is home made cork, and cut quite a bit off, and resealed, will give it a try when it dries out, thank you all
  4. correct torque is "tight" I would go about 45Lbft
  5. I have to run the air bleed screw in a LONG way to get my '27 to drive well, I believe a stiffer spring is in order to have it operate correctly any where near being flush to the tangs, mine is in that far it is not even on the ratchet, same result with 2 carbs, and 2 heat risers that have both had tubes replaced, with it in that far, car runs very well, idles well, and reasonable fuel milage and no overheating
  6. you don't want to pick up the water pump for me and post it? happy to pay for your trouble
  7. yes, but getting harder to find, my father got my car in 1969, and took 7 years to restore it, finding vintage cars in paddocks wasn't too difficult then, you just don't see many now, so it is a matter of finding someone having one in a farm shed or something
  8. the gearboxes are different from '26 to '27, clutch is interchangeable though, agree with having spares available, I have brand new linings for my '27 that I hope I never need, but they are there if I do
  9. we had a 1926 Buick hearse when I was about 12 years old, Dad bought it with intentions of restoring it, it was grey with black guards
  10. my post may have come across the wrong way, I was just trying to show that the results are both similar, and unless you can find someone experienced with the old stuff, yours is a great option, the guy that repaired mine only leak tests vintage radiators to 4 psi, so it doesn't make more leaks, as they are not a pressurized system, most radiator places would just run 15psi in then an destroy the core
  11. I had overheating problems with my 27-25 since inheriting it from my father, took the original honeycomb core to an old time radiator guy, he removed the tanks, cleaned it all out, repaired some leaks, and made a whole new bottom outlet as the old one had corroded away, it now runs almost exact temps you describe above, cost over $600, but worth it to have peice of mind that the old honeycomb core is good for another 85 years
  12. if you have a sample, or accurate dimensions, Top End Performance can more than likely have JE custom make them, I have purchased several sets of custom pistons from them, very good service and fast turnaround, the only ones that they couldn't make for me so far were a set of Rolls Royce Merlin pistons, they don't have forgings or pins big enough for that
  13. the making of the Triumph Rocket 3-
  14. actually, our spark plugs screw into the oil pan, they go down under...
  15. true craftsmanship, I have enjoyed this thread immensely, thank you for sharing.
  16. no worries, hopefully you can get to the bottom of it all
  17. this thread may help http://forums.aaca.org/f163/1911-buick-model-14-a-210355.html
  18. my spare '27 clutch parts, should look the same though
  19. here is the information Leif, they are definitely USA built Buick Car Club of Australia Inc. in N.S.W. - Buick - Australian History
  20. I believe it has a US built chassis, Australian built body
  21. I celebrated Anzac day by putting my reconditioned radiator complete with newly made bottom outlet and re chromed surround back together and going for a drive, and spared some thoughts for both of my Grandfathers that were POWs at Changi
  22. hood bows are the original ones, were fortunately stored in a shed, mine is '27 model, but most parts the same, I have quite a few spares, but not hood bows or rear tub bits
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