sysmg

You really messed up the idle mixture screws. They are not the idle speed setting. Hopefully you didn't screw them in really tight and damage them. With the car off, turn them all the way in (gently) until they seat. Then loosen them 1 1/2 turns (make sure you do this exactly by noting the orientation of the slot in each screw). Note: as you loosen, every time the slot is in the same position you have loosened it 1/2 turn. 1 1/2 turns is a good starting point. Both screws need to always be adjusted the exact same amount (ie. 1 1/2 turn). Once you have the overheating sorted out you can adjust them further (I wouldn't run it too long if it is getting as hot as you say). If it's running too fast adjust the idle speed screw, it's one screw (on a tab on the side of the carburetor or on a cam on the outside of the carburetor) , usually near the side of the carburetor where the rods from the gas pedal hook to the carburetor. It kind of stops the return spring from completely closing the throttle plates. To further adjust the idle mixture screws you have to understand what they do, basically they are tapered screws that as you loosen them allow more gas into the air/fuel mixture. Tighten them and they reduce the fuel. For the car to run properly these have to be adjusted exactly to get the best fuel mixture. These are idle mixture screws, as they affect the mixture when the throttle is closed or close to closed. They have a huge impact on smoothness of idle and how the car moves off from a standstill (under normal driving when you gently squeeze the gas pedal). If they are completely closed the engine won't idle, because it isn't getting any fuel. Theoretically, as you open them (say 1/4 turn or 90 degrees at a time, first the left and then the right), from close to closed, the engine will speed up. After a few iterations of opening them more (again 1/4 turn at a time) the engine will no longer speed up. Keep going and after a few iterations the engine will actually slow down (called rich fall off). Then if you started to screw them in the opposite would happen, and after a few times, when the engine slows down as you turn them in you've reached lean fall off. Basically you want to find the lean fall off point and then loosen the screws 1/4 turn from that point (you can play plus or minus 1/8 turn from this point if you really want to get it perfect). So to actually make the adjustments, I'd recommend hooking up a tachometer so you can see the actual engine speed. Start the car at idle, turn out both screws 1/4 turn, to make sure the engine doesn't increase in speed, if it does loosen the screws again another 1/4 turn. Repeat until the 1/4 turn doesn't make much difference. Now you want to turn both screws in 1/4 turn at a time, repeat until the engine starts slowing down noticeably. Once it slows down, loosen the screws back out 1/4 turn to get to the last point where the engine had not slowed down yet (this is the lean fall off point). Now loosen both the screws another 1/4 turn. This should provide you with a very good idle mixture setting. Now adjust the idle speed as per the factory settings using the tach. This should provide for a very good idle mixture. It should take about 5-10 minutes of idling (which is why I'd recommend waiting for this final adjustments until you fix the overheating (start with just them each loosened 1 1/2 turns from seated). Drive the car and check how it accelerates normally with gentle throttle from a standstill. You want to minimize hesitation when you accelerate and for the car to move off smartly. To try and optimize the settings, you can adjust the screws either in and/or out by 1/8 turns and test drive to see if it improved. Remember to always keep them the same number of turns. Good luck. As for the fine adjustments, running with them turned in closer to the lean fall off point will get better gas mileage but poorer acceleration, further out will reduce gas mileage but improve acceleration. All of these fine adjustments happen within about 3/4 of a turn.

Does it run? Pics?

1948 Olds Coupe 1966 442 W30 w/Tri-Power 1966 Startfire (I own now) 1966 or 67 Toronado

I know this is an old thread. Just want to mention that I owned a 1966 Dynamic 88 with a factory 4sp and bench seats. No console.

Just was looking in my collection of paperwork. I think you are incorrect on Olds not offering the 4 speed and that bench seats were standard. Although I agree that the Starfire was pretty much an afterthought once the Toronado sales took off. From the 1966 Oldsmobile Sports Model Catalog. Describing the standard features of the 1966 Starfire "Starfire: Guard-Beam frame. 3-speed fully synchronized floor mounted transmission standard. T-stick Turbo Hydra-Matic or 4 speed fully synchronized transmission optional at extra cost. Self-adjusting brakes, 208.6-sq.-in. lining area. 4-coil suspension with front stabilizer bar. Dual exhaust system." Also the following paragraph shows that the Bucket Seats are standard. "Starfire rest on its laurels? Never! For 1966, rakish new looks set this Oldsmobile stylishly apart from everything else on the road. Distinctive vents in sweeping new chrome side mouldings. Bold front end. Longer looking... lower looking too. Inside, thin-shell Strato Bucket Seats flank a smart control console (all standard). Beneath that dramatic hood, a 425-cubic-inch Starfire V-8 Engine delivers 375 high-compression horsepower (standard too). And as if all that weren't enough to get you Starfire bound, Oldsmobile adds one more thing: a price that's mighty hard to resist!" One more paragraph clearly spelling out the seat options: "Strato Bucket Seats, contoured for comfort, are standard in Starfire. So is Starfire's sporty control console and Morocceen-insert instrument panel. Optional seating includes a reclining passenger seat, front-seat headrests and new Strato Bench Seats."

My Starfire has bucket seats. I was not aware that they were available with bench seats (they are so rare, I have only seen a handful). I know the Jetstar/1 (which was a less fancy Starfire) came with bench seats, as opposed the the Jetstar 88, which was a low end Dynamic/Delta 88.

I don't have any proof. Does anyone know if it was even offered on the order sheet? If it was, do you think Olds would refuse to fill an order? In any case, the 66 Dynamic 88 I bought was clearly a factory 4spd. The Dynamic had a bench seat and no console, so I would imagine a Starfire would have needed a console. The picture I saw of the 66 Starfire with the 4spd I saw for sale (Mill Brook Imports, Restoration of Old Model Classic Cars) seems to have the Cutlas/442 console. Although I am not familiar with the Cutlas shifter arm, I think the picture shows a different rather long arm. If you are interested, I have pictures of the 4spd components I pulled out of the Dynamic 88 through the website I posted earlier (including the shifter arm).

Just saw a for sale ad from MillBrook Imports claiming 277 4 speed Starfires were built in 1966. I own a 1966 Starfire with an automatic. However, I did buy a 1966 Dynamic 88 with a factory 4spd and posi. I removed the 4spd and all other components and have them in storage. My father bought a new 1966 Delta 88. A neighbor had a 66 Dynamic 88. I later bought the Starfire and have been working on them since around 1971. Stew's Oldsmobiles - 1966 Starfire Story