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Posts posted by 1935EB

  1. The good folks who manage this Forum are to be commended. This is easier than posting from Photobucket. How long have we been able to do this?

    Anyway. One item we were working with was the repair of my grille. The one I got with the car was already welded to the grille shell. This presented a problem of course. I bought a new one that I thought was NOS because it was painted black enamel and looked very straight. It was missing a few teeth but aren't we all?

    I cut a few bars from the "Custom" grille to place in the new grille. The screws you see are to position the teeth when welding the ring to them. The teeth are paper thin and were welded with a heliarc welder by a guy that knows how to use this equipment. The rest of the photos are self explanatory . I wanted also to show the door alignment, as this turned out well.

    1933 Plymouth PD Assembly Feb 2018 h.jpg

    1933 Plymouth PD Assembly Feb 2018 i.jpg

    1933 Plymouth PD Assembly Feb 2018 c.jpg

    1933 Plymouth PD Assembly Feb 2018 g.jpg

    1933 Plymouth PD Assembly Feb 2018 d.jpg

    1933 Plymouth PD Assembly Feb 2018 e.jpg

    1933 Plymouth PD Assembly Feb 2018 f.jpg

  2. Todd,

    I will use this little jewel I just received. Need to buy wheel weights. This is a Bada Carr M-60 from the 1960's. The wheel fits on the "spindle" so I am good to go as soon as I set it up in my shop and get the weights. I love these old gas station tools.






    I will post progress photos if things work out with set up, etc.





    • Like 1
  3. IMG_4327.jpg






    The short answer is yes. From at least two sources. On was from Chrysler and it is listed in the parts book. This is sometimes referred to as a limousine gear? I do not have this book with me at this time to give you the numbers. They were I think 4 13 as opposed to the standard 4 38. The ring gear will be clearly marked with the part number.

    Another is the aftermarket set shown in photos. One of these was on eBay two weeks ago? I bought mine on eBay in February last year. They come up about every 6 months. I have only seen one official Chrysler set and this was mounted in a rear end. It was on eBay Buy it Now for weeks before I pointed it out to a friend in the AACA here in Houston. He was able to buy it.

    His impression is that it makes a big difference in drivability. His is an older restoration that he drives in tours, etc.

    Let's be realistic, if your plan is to drive these  in tours and log some miles it is a serious consideration. If you just go up to the Dairy Queen with the grandkids than maybe stick with what you have. Don't forget these Plymouths and Dodges of this vintage developed a good reputation and were very drivable in their day. Most Chevies of this period are 4 11.

    Hope this helps.

    If no one posts the Chrysler part numbers I will after I find my parts books.


    • Like 2
  4. From the "Generator and Distributor" article many years ago, VCCA newsletter.

    "Eagle" is early 1933, replaced by "Master" series, virtually identical. There is no "Mercury" only a 1933 "Standard" series, the VCCA has basically eliminated the "Mercury" designation. Go to the VCCA website and look at the historical research supporting this. I know the term "Mercury" is popular but it never existed at least from a Chevrolet perspective.


    1933 Chevrolet Head casting number Master, Eagle CA Model Cars 836961

    1933 Chevrolet Head casting number Standard CC Model Cars 600569


    1933 and 1934 Chevrolet Cylinder Block casting number Master, Eagle CA and DA Models Car and Trucks 837231

    1933 Chevrolet Cylinder Block casting number Standard CC Model Cars 473180

    1934 Chevrolet Cylinder Block casting number Standard DC Model Cars 473741


    I don't know if a 1934 or 1935 Standard engine would fit in a 1933 Standard car.




    • Like 1
  5. The wheels are completed. Three are excellent rim, spokes, and hub. One is very good hub, spokes and a very nice rim but with a small dent I did not notice earlier. One is excellent rim and spokes but pitting on hub. I think the hubcaps will cover these. The powder coating is like chrome plating it has a high build that will need to be removed to set the hubcaps in their holes.


    I bought the tires, tubes, and flaps from the folks at Universal Tire Co. in Pennsylvania. They were helpful and provided a good deal of information. They also have the tubes with straight stems (not off set stems). If I remember these are made for 17 and 18 inch applications. We used a Coat's wheel machine at the tire shop, all tools in touch with rim were nylon. They did not scratch a single one of them.


    The owner was helpful and I had a chance to teach a younger person about tube tires, baby powder made from talc, installing tubes etc. They even let me help in the shop, a little bit like Tom Sawyer and painting the fence. All in all an easy part of what has been a challenging restoration project. 












    I trust this is helpful, Chris

  6. Tom,

    Looking good.

    Black fenders are a personal preference as are side mounts verses rear mounted spares. On my '33 Plymouth I wanted to accent the sweeping new teardrop design. Side mounts seemed to interrupt the visual flow as the eyes move taking in the view. Black fenders can do the same on a car with lighter colors. The rear mounted spare tire covers showing a hint of the rim color and chrome hubcap also support this visual. By 1933 most art and color departments at the big three figured out that engineers shouldn't decide these things but artists and marketers instead. By '33 any dealer would paint fenders to match body color on the lower priced cars like Plymouth and Chevy.

    Again this is a personal preference and not intended to start a forum riot.

    My 1931 Chevrolet six wheel sedan is a little boxier and supports side mounts and black fenders. The tire covers are sheet metal and painted black.

    Pick up trucks have a fender spare and look great with color or black fenders. I like the sweeping lines of your 34 pickup and think it would look great either way.

  7. Visited today and the '33 PD is disassembled again and in paint booth. As most know we struggle with higher humidities than most in this part of the world. We have about five days of lower humidity coming.










    Wheels and tires ready for disassembly sandblasting and powder coating. They will be Red, as is on the coupon, to match pin stripe and door top edge.




    I had a lot of repair work to add the missing teeth and crank hole ring. screws are there mainly to line up pieces so they can be silver soldered by plater before plating. If they need to stay they will be not noticeable.






    Hope this is helpful and informative, Chris

    • Like 1
  8. Taylormade,

    He will use a single stage, not a system using clear coat. It is a Polyurethane (?) system from PPG. The colors on this Plymouth will be Durode Gray (actually a nice, rich tan) with Red Pin Stripe, door tops, and wire wheels.

    It was sure nice seeing the body and sheet metal back on after all these years. I am sure you felt the same way with your '32 Dodge when the body was refitted.

    Of course it will all come apart again next week as the fenders etc will be painted off the car and than reassembled.


  9. Tom thanks for the encouragement. One thing I've learned that most already know is that these projects take time.


    We start the preassembly work to be sure all body parts fit as required. Now that the doors are properly opening and closing.

    We attached the grille shell support rods loosely. We than added a hood half to check where to position grille support rods. Looks like hood is going to fit well. we need to pull backwards on grille shell to reduce gap between hood front and shell. This week we will assemble other half of hood and align front fenders, grille shell and hood halves. Next will be the running boards and than the rear fenders and gas tank apron. I feel the best approach is front to back after the doors are aligned.

    Once all sheet metal is fitted properly and tightened up they will be disassembled and sent to the paint booth.


    1933 Plymouth PD Grille Support Rods.jpg

    1933 Plymouth PD Grille Support Rods b.jpg

    1933 Plymouth PD Grille Support Rods a.jpg

    1933 Plymouth PD Grille Shell Assembly a.jpg

    1933 Plymouth PD Grille Shell Assembly b.jpg

    1933 Plymouth PD Grille Shell Assembly c.jpg

    1933 Plymouth PD Hood Alignment a.jpg

    1933 Plymouth PD Hood Alignment b.jpg

  10. We than used the shim under the body bolt plan. We loosened the hinge pillar bolt and the one behind it. We placed a jack under the body and began lifting it up. this threw the top of the hinge pillar backwards and opened the gap without throwing any of the other gaps out of spec. The photo with the correct gap is shown above with the ones for the driver door.

    The next step is figuring out how the bottom front of the door can be rolled or flexed inward but for now I am happy with the alignment of the reveals and the gaps.


  11. 1935 Dodge Van and Keiser31,

    Many thanks. I will try this later this week. First to align the dovetail. The block of wood also protects the jack head from going through the bottom sheet metal on door.

    Once this is done we can see pictures of how far forward the front door edge might be and look for ideas to push it back towards the rear of the car using would wedges.

    Thanks again, Chris

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