John.McMaster

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About John.McMaster

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  • Birthday 03/03/1948

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  1. Jason and Nathan, I have repaired the worn parts of my starter operating mechanism and it now works perfectly. The balance between the pinion engaging and motor starting is fine indeed with a bit of wear in the fork pins and the swivel pin being enough to cause the problem. Many thanks for your help. John.
  2. Hi Jason, Good point about modifications because it did work ok once as is. However I think you are on to it with the wear factor. There is a small bit of wear on the pins and probably a bit on the ring that they contact. Looking further the lever pivot pin is also worn a little. Combined they may be enough to throw the operating balance out. My son is handy with metal and feels that he can grind off the pins then drill the arm and replace the pins to original specs. The pivot pin is an easy replace. Thanks for your advice..I will let you know how I get on. Regards, John.
  3. Hi Jason, I pulled my starter apart and the clutch drive seems to be in good condition and working OK. The problem is that sometimes the starter seems to start spinning before the pinion drive gear is engaged with the ring gear. Yes, to answer your question in a previous post, this results in some grinding or clashing noise. I can try again and it will more often than not work correctly and seems to depend a bit on the pressure and angle that I press with my foot. I am wondering if filing a bit off the lever operating arm lug where it contacts the electrical switch so that the electrical switch is engaged slightly later would help? See photo. Regards, John.
  4. Hi Jason, Thanks for your suggestion and offer of help. I will pull this spare apart over the weekend and see if I can get an understanding of its operation based on your explanation. I may have some better informed questions then. From the photo you certainly do a nice reconditioning job and I'm afraid in my engine bay it would put the rest to shame.
  5. Hi Nathan, Thanks for your response. As you can see below on a photo of a spare I have my starter is a little different. I imagined that the lever on top engaged the drive gear then further movement closed the electrical switch. However it seems that there is some sort of spring or mechanism in the section between the gear and motor. I will dismantle this spare and see what I can find this weekend. Thanks, John.
  6. My 1930 Commander has had a problem with the starter for a long time. When I depress the starter foot pedal often it spins freely without engaging the ringgear. I then remove my foot, juggle the pedal around and sideways (but not turning the starter motor) a bit and depress again and it usually engages and turns the motor over properly. It seems to me like the starter starts spinning a fraction too soon before the ring gear is engaged. Is there some adjustment I could make. Both the starter pinion and ringgear are in good shape.
  7. David's comments are valid in that there is little room for error with the twin points but the pages from the electrical book I sent you explain this set up process well. Since you have the manifolds apart check the pipe (about 1.5 inches diameter from memory) that is pressed into the exhaust manifold and allows the fuel mixture to pass through the exhaust manifold for preheating. It is directly above the carburetor I have a 30 Commander and 30 Dictator and on both cars this pipe developed a rust pinhole and over time the hole increased to the point that the leaking exhaust gas into the fuel mixture messed up the whole process on a (slowly) developing scale. It took a long while to find this issue and whilst it is probably not your current problem it is worth having a look at it whilst apart. The steel tube just presses into the cast manifold and is easily replaced. I replaced them with a standard piece of copper pipe. Good luck!
  8. My light works ok and my understanding is that the timing light gets its power from the high voltage of the coil. Try it out you can't do any harm. Good move replacing the battery cables. Sometimes if they are not all good a lot of power can be drained off turning the engine and leave a much reduced voltage to fire the coil. To get maximum voltage at the coil it might be worth taking a live wire directly from the negative battery terminal to the coil terminal that is usually supplied through the ignition switch. Sometimes the switch can be making a poor connection or other high resistance joints in the whole circuit may reduce the voltage to the coil.
  9. Hi Robert, You'll get one here. Shrock Brothers New Releases John.
  10. Hi Robert, This model Stude (at least) has the firing order cast into the exhaust manifold...1-6-2-5-8-3-7-4. It really doesn't matter what is embossed on the cap if you get number 1 cylinder to top dead centre on the compression stroke then start with the terminal that is opposite the rotor at that time to number 1 then by connecting the cylinders in accord with the firing order being careful that you are going in the right direction of rotation of the rotor. I hear what you say about your starting technique but does yours come in a can ?
  11. Your welcome. Ha ha can you imagine what Mr Dyke would think of you driving around in your Studebaker reading his book on a handheld !!!!
  12. You can see on the diagram that the cylinders numbers are marked on the distributor. The top of the picture corresponds to the front of the car and usually on most cars the number one cylinder is at the front. The book from which I took the information is a massive manual that covers all sorts of cars from Ajax to Winton and I got it from a closing car workshop about 40 years ago. It is electrical and wiring and the two pages you have are all the information on Stude FD it has. I don't have any more Stude specific info but found Dykes book (photos) to be gold as an instruction manual to lose my old car virginity. It is very instructional in that it explains most things from the beginning and works logically through. These are often available on ebay or at old book stores and there are a number of editions ranging through the years of our cars. I would try get one from about 1929 or 1930. No stupid questions in this game mate...every question you have raised here I had myself at some time. Good luck.
  13. Here is some info regarding the electrics which shows the distributor rotation. These are photos from a service manual that won't easily fit my scanner and if there is any critical part that is not clear let me know and I'll check it. These can be pretty fussy with the dual point system but I agree if its even close you should get some response with starter fluid. Incidentally we have a starter fluid here in Australia thats called "start ya bastard" !!!
  14. Hi Glenn, No offence taken mate. I agree with your comments about the the Ford which enjoy the same support in terms of parts and knowledge. I also have an 8 cylinder Studebaker that I have had since Koby's age and learnt so much from it. And to you Koby: Sorry don't mean to hi-jack your thread with our conversation but you have the idea to ask for advice because some cars can be a bottomless pit and even when finished you don't have anything special. When I was your age I sought advice from older blokes and it was not only advice I got but help and often they would not take anything for parts or even labour if in the trade. Many were just happy to see a young'en taking an interest as it seems you have found out at Hershey. One of my young mates from those days was given a fully restored 1923 Willys Knight (that he had admired for 20 years) by a fellow member who had grown too old to drive and couldn't bear the thought of selling it to a stranger. I have seen a spirit of generosity here and am especially jealous of your offer to drive the Pierce Arrows. Regards, John.
  15. Hi Glenn, The MGA in the picture is mine and it has original factory hydraulic brakes with drum rear and disc on the front. I have fitted a power assist to the brakes because my sons drive it from time to time and forget about the extra pressure required until the first application. The brakes are excellent considering the age (1960). This car is rarely under 50mph because it is not happy at low revs. I agree that the support in terms of knowledge and parts is as good as it gets. Simplicity is the key. For example no door handles, with just a bit of cord in the door to open it, (often unnecessary) and plywood floor. The MGB is a lot less 'agricultural' and was I believe designed largely with the American market in mind and may suit a young man more than an A. John.