alini
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Posts posted by alini
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Seller relisted the auction now starting at $500 and buy it now $32k. But I’m the add he claims he had owned it a year and drives it on weekends. I can tell you that cat hasn’t had 1000 miles in it since I sold it 7 years ago and he just got it at the mecum auction a few weeks ago
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Well it didn’t take long, buyer has it in ebay
I imagine the $32k buy it now price is his reserve and he is testing the waters to see what he gets. Current bid is $24k, he paid 22 at the auction
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Looks like the fried the headlight motor. It worked when I sold it
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The 65 Riviera sold yesterday, Aug 14th was the one I rebuilt a few years ago. If anyone knows the buyer they are free to contact me
Hopefully it’s in the hands of a driver. The last two owners have kept it in storage and just trying to profit off age. I don’t think it’s been driving 1000 miles since I sold it
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9 hours ago, alini said:
I guess my old car is up for sale again. Page says $33,900. That would be amazing if they get it
https://carscoms.com/65-buick-riviera-0-blue-coupe-232117.html
Maybe not. I found another page with the same picture listing it for 27,800. I’ve tried contacting the people thru their pages. Waiting for an answer. It may have sold already
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I guess my old car is up for sale again. Page says $33,900. That would be amazing if they get it
https://carscoms.com/65-buick-riviera-0-blue-coupe-232117.html
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The only 10 gauge wire in the window system of a factory power window car is from the battery to circuit breaker which was mounted on the wall behind the left kick panel. Then 10 gauge from the CB to to the drivers window switch, all other switches worked off that power and all remaining wire was 14 gauge.
The system never maxes out at 40 AMP, the breaker would 'shut off power' when the motor reached its travel limits and then reset once you released the switch.
With all that said, you dont have a factory window set up and how your system works can be drastically different.
If your system runs off a 40 amp fuse and you keep popping it, there is a fault in the circuit, either a motor drawing too much or whatever the failsafe is when the motor reaches max travel is not working.
My suggestion is to get into the door wiring, so you can run the motors off a stand alone power source, most of us use a cordless drill battery to run window motors for testing. test each motor individually and see how they operate and work your way backwards. Hook your power source up at switches, do the switches perform just as good as directly to the motors. If not your switches are bad, then step back to the fuse connection and jumper that. applying your power to the window side of the fuse and ground the frame and see how the windows work. Its the only way to systematically figure out which link is the weakest in your set up.
Someplace in your set up there has to be some 'safety' that when the window reaches its max travel, the motor shuts off. Either internally or externally. something else to consider is when your fuse pops, as soon as you try to move, or when you reach max travel or somewhere in between. Is it just a specific window or direction causing the problem. Are the window tracks clean and does the window have the best chance to move up and down smoothly
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I stopped in because someone told me a person was looking for help and I may have an answer. Then I found this. Call it what you will, I used this forum extensively in the rebuilding of my Riv back in the day. I took a car from the grave, having not moved in a dirt field for 14 years and gave it life again. Was it restoration quality, not by any means. Did I modify a few things to make it custom, yes.
Did I learn a ton...YES, did I meet some great people and make a few friends, YES. That should be the focus, education and friendly sharing of info....what someone does with that info is up to the.
If a 'restoration' only mantra is put in place, this will really slow traffic and many are going to find other sources of data.
Just my opinion
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The guys from Nichols paint and fab are selling all the parts they didn’t use in the 1963 resto mod build. You may want to reach out to them and see what they have. They posted the rolling frame for sale on Instagram
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17 hours ago, cjp69 said:
Interestingly, it looks like the guy who bought your car back in August on BAT, is the same guy (dealership), that is selling the plum 66 GS (maybe) on BAT that is being discussed above!
https://bringatrailer.com/member/dmitrim/
Thanks for the info
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On 8/25/2018 at 6:01 AM, steelman said:
Isn’t this the car Chris in Las Vegas built? His was an off color blue and had the combo interior.
Yes that was my car, I popped in to the forum to see if anyone here might have gotten it or knows where it went. I just found the website listing tonight. The guy who bought it from me doesnt seem to have done anything except drive it, the air filter is alot dirtier then when I sold it.
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My question was more from a point of identifying the history of the truck, I was finding numerous colors as I removed all the paint and wondered what the base color was if any. But the fact I am building a custom truck rather than a restoration seems to make people not want to help....I might as well be a homeless guy asking directions. I truly hate the world these days and this just adds to it. Someone needs help or asks a question you answer it not give them a rash of crap for the choices of their life or push your opinion on them without any reference to the assistance they need. Im just going to build the damn truck and screw the forums for help anymore. I spent 4 years in the Riviera section of this forum helping everyone who had questions, it obviously didnt pay off for anything except knowing I treated people right
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went to the VCCA forums and introduced myself and pretty much every response stressed they only restore their vehicles....since Im customizing I should find another place to get my answers.
Wont be going back to the forum for anything
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Can anyone tell me if a 1937 had a painted frame or not. I cant find any sign of original paint on mine, just a load of surface rust, especially under the cab
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I have a 37, I want to switch to a manual trans. The truck came with a th350. Its looking like a Camaro T5 with a S-10 tailshaft will allow for the bench seat to stay. Im not all that bothered to keep the bench, just wondering where the shifter on yours ended up.
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I picked up my 'new to me' 1937 1/2 ton the other day. Sadly the suspension and brakes are worse than I expected. All the bushings in the springs are shot, all the springs have been 'flattened' and the shackles arent mounted right so there is no travel. The brake line routing is bothersome and on a single line master cylinder and drum brakes. So the first thing I want to do is get the truck on a safe suspension and decent brakes.
There are tons of kits out there, any one stand out as the one that everyone likes or one to avoid?
Having just bought the truck I have no idea what factory ride height or quality is and I dont want to drive it in its current condition. So I dont know what or how much I want to lower from stock, or even if I want stock. I like the height its at right now, but no way of knowing what that means in relation to factory numbers to order 'lowering' pieces.
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I am picking up a 1937 Chevy truck on Tuesday. Previous owners have already installed a 350 cid engine, Turbo350 trans and Ford 9 inch rear. The only other modification so far was a more modern bench seat but the seller couldnt tell me from what. The charging system, lights, ignition are all 12 volt, the seller said none of the gauges work so Im assuming they are still 6 volt and need to be converted.
With the stock suspension in the truck and the ford 9 rear the lug nut count is weird (6 in the front and 5 in the rear) so the rims dont match.
Upon initial inspection I found the engine mounting is a little awkward to me, its mounted on a large U cradle mounted to the cross member at two spots and the cradle is only bolted to two bolts in the lower front corners of the block. I'm a novice to this generation vehicle, but Its my understanding thats how the original 50s cars were mounted. So it will be one of the first things I address to get it on the road. Previous owner got it from an estate sale a year ago and barely drove it. The front passenger drum brake locks up very easily, I"ll get the brakes serviceable until I decide which way I want to take it. Ive heard some people hate the solid axle and others say its not bad. Im leaning toward leaving the truck as stock as possible and just make a cruiser out of it.
This is not my first 'overhaul' I did a frame off rebuild of a 65 Riviera, that is posted in the Riviera section of the forum. Took me 4 years and I did everything by myself except the transmission rebuild. I am ust about complete on a panel conversion of a PT Cruiser, again something I did entirely myself (except the paint - I paid because I dont have the space in the garage anymore) So Im looking forward to getting into this project and seeing what challenges it throws at me. I willbe asking alot of questions
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I took my switch apart, but dont recall everything I do know the larger spring is what keeps the brass piece in contact with the switch (end with the wires) and the smaller spring is to reset the plunger for the washer button. If I recall the brass plate sits with the drepssression against the switch side and would make contact when they were turned into position.
Good luck, I know I had a hard time finding a replacement which was why I rebuilt mine
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Im afraid I may have to go that route which sucks because I want to drive it often, so constantly shuffling cars to go anywhere will be a pain.
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I have my eye on a 36 I love the condition it’s in. Just enough things wrong for me to fix and be a driver. It has a 327 and th350 in it and it’s right for daily driving.
My biggest problem is my garage is currently filled with an on going project and with wanting to daily drive it parking the truck in the driveway is my best option. I could park it in the garage and reposition the project back in when I work on it
my concern is about securing the truck in the driveway overnight. Not that I live in a bad neighborhood but we do have guys who wander communities and are opportunistic thieves. If the car is open they let themselves in and take what they can. I don’t want it to be the truck
how do the doors lock on a 1936 if at all? Are there any other options to immobilize the truck ?
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If you are looking for a shop to restore your car, you will be investing 100K easy. I simply rebuilt my car, but every system needed to be touched, by myself outsourcing only the transmission and I only spent 762 hours. I talked to a few folks who thought that was fast, a shop told me they cant do a car in under 1000. Basic shop rate for almost every shop in the country is $75 an hour, so thats $75K in just labor. I spent 23K in parts.
A show room perfect Riv MAY get you that kinda money back....its your pocket book.
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How about the built in feature on the first gens. you can not lock your keys in the car. You have to use your key to lock the door. If you push the door lock down and shut the door it unlocks itself
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Correct, trace it back to the vacuum canister and you can cap that line.
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You can take blue painters tape and cover the paint so you don't scratch the paint or get anything on it
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Monterey mecum auction
in Buick Riviera
Posted
When I built It, it was intended to be taken out of a rotting hole and out back in the road but the three people who have owned since think it’s a money making machine and keep wanting to sell for profit rather than enjoy it. To me it’s a cool car to go cruising in, I got my enjoyment out of building it from the ground up from a dirt lot prison it was in