slyhog022056

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About slyhog022056

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  • Birthday 02/20/1956

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    slyhog022056@yahoo.com
  1. Well first off this isnt a sight for restorations only, its called The Antique Automobile Club, nowhere does it say restorers club. secondly i am not "slicing up a prized relic" i am just making it better and more dependable. Which you cant get with a restoration of something 60+ years old. Thanks for the link anyway.
  2. Hello folks, been a long time since i have been here. I am looking for a chart with frame dimensions, widths, heights, center points to center points. I am looking for this because i have bought another 2001 vehicle with the intent of putting my 52 olds 98 body on it. I have the frame dimensions for the other vehicle but was trying to find mounting point locations, frame widths and ride height measurements so i can get the other frame to sit down onto it. I only have a 2 car garage so it isnt possible to put the 2 frames next to each other to measure and change. Any ideas of where i can find this information will be greatly appreciated
  3. I got a front brass and plastic rear globe from a guy that ordered them from Fusicks, went to match them up not even close to fitting, hence the reason i got them for free. The correct rear reflectors arent available anywhere i have found. . I ordered 2 tail light lenses from then about a year ago, first they were back ordered, then when they arrived 8 months later they werent correct at all, out of round and different shades of red. Very leary at this point of Fusicks, even though they do have a couple of things i need........
  4. Never thought about the seals hardening up, but its understandable. At $750 each i dont think i could go wrong with 1 or even 2 extras around, i am sure i could sell them at a swap meet pretty easy. After all who in their right mind would replace these wonderful transmissions with something other than a hydramatic??.... Now to figure out converting to rear disc brakes or finding a narrow enough axle to put under there with discs....
  5. Yes but i also have quite a few lenses and stuff for 49, to 55's too. i know how hard it is to find these things, especailly those globes. I have a friend that is taking my front brass globes and a few other brass ones and making dies to punch some out if there is a demand for them.
  6. I can get pictures of what he has, do you need just the block or rotating assembly, heads, intake etc??
  7. Hey there, soon i will be making mold to cast some spare taillight lenses, front turn signal lens, rear backup light lens, front and rear reflectors and the 4" plastic globe insert in the trunk lift handle. And any plastic handles and stuff from the interior. Was wondering if there would be any use of me casting a few extra of all of them, especially that rear trunk globe. And would they sell?? I know i am going to cast a full spare set for myself but would it be any benefit to casting a dozen or so?? Just wanting to know so i can estimate how much resin to buy.
  8. Where are you located?? my son has 2- 340's and a 360. 72, 73 and 72 truck block. Have almost all the parts to them they are torn down and blocks have been magnafluxed for cracks. $450 for everything just to get them out of my storage unit.
  9. Kanter has almost evry gasket you will need. There are also a few places with ebay stores that sell them too.
  10. I am soon going to be rebuilding the engine and trans... maybe in my 52 olds 98. This car had been parked in 1975 and the trans was still good. i didnt get to drive the car before removing the drivetrain and am worried the hydramatic may need to be rebuilt. I did tow it a ways and the rear pump did build enough pressure to turn the engine over in drive. I removed it last year with all the fluid inside it and it has been vacuum wrapped in plastic ever since. Problem..i dont know if the bands and clutches would still be any good after sitting for 38 years. To rebuild it would cost me about $750 in parts, there is a guy here that has NOS hydramatics still in original GM shipping crates for $750. Would these be in the same condition as mine since they had never been installed? and would they be usable without rebuilding also?. He has 3 of them and i am thinking about buying them all.
  11. Selling the engine and transmission out of my 1952 olds 98. .This is the original engine and transmission with about 69,000 original miles. was last runnning in 1975. before i tore it down it cranked over but wouldnt run due to timing chain being jumped 1 tooth. The engine and all parts have been hot tanked. i have everything that goes with it, generator, a/c compressor, starter etc. The original owner said that was the only problem with the car when they parked it. The only thing i wont sell is the batwing oil bath aircleaner. The engine is tore down, sprayed down with wd-40 and wrapped in plastic to keep it from rusting i was going to rebuild it but changed my mind in favor of a modern drivetrain. $2000
  12. I have a 1952 olds 98 that i am in the process of getting ready to paint, 1 problem is when i took the rear fenders off they had traces of a gasket or maybe even welting on them. What is supposed to be between the fenders and the body?? Is it rubber or some kind of oil impregnated gasket? Also before i took them off i noticed that neither of the fenders was even close to following the body lines of the body. At the rear where it begins to curve down the fender stuck out almost 1/4" further but met very close at the front and on the rear lower 16". Both fenders fit like this. The guy i bought it from has another one just like it and the fenders on it are the same way. Neither of these cars have ever been wrecked taken apart or even been repainted. I didnt see any way to make them match up at all without major welding.
  13. Whats strange is I knew about this old farmers trick from back in my childhood (1960's) because my dad used to do it with his old race cars he kept, just didnt think about it.
  14. Well i found out why the paint was balling up on me. I talked to the original owner and he told me he parked the car in 1975 and in 1978 when he decided he wasnt going to get it running he did an old farmers trick to try and store it, he wiped the entire car down with used engine oil several times to keep it from rusting out. Evidently since this is straight enamel it soaked it up over the years. I pulled it out of the garage and sprayed it down with an industrial alkali we use at work, let it work for about 15 minutes them rinsed it off really good. Now it sands off real narmally with 120 grit. I usually use the alkali for degreasing frames and engines but never thought i would have to do the paint on a car also. Oh well its a clean slate to start with now.
  15. Started some of the stripping of the paint on my 52 olds, just 1 really big problem, this paint seems to be rubber based in some way. Tried blasting and the paint just balls up in a big mess like rubber. tried sanding with 60, 80 and 120 grit and the same thing and clogged up a 7" pad in about 3 minutes. Tried using a wire wheel and no better there. Had a local media blaster come look at it the hood i started on and they quickly told me they wouldnt touch it for less than $800, exterior only no frame or underneath. There also seems to be a red oxide primer underneath. I only have 1 dent in the entire car to mess with but many scratches and places where the paint has peeled or chipped off over the years. What did they use when they painted this car originally?? This is the original paint as i have tried several areas with the same results, even the paint between bolted together panels. Where there are scratches and peeling paint i can clean out the minor rust but cant figure out how to feather it out. This is beating me up, this is my 5th repaint and never had this problem before.