rocky5517

Yes it is. Went from R-12 to 134, back to R 12. New drier and upgrade to the "suction valve"? Manual controls. Never a problem until last night.

As we all know, when you list a car for sale, they somehow sense it and something breaks down. Sure enough, tonight when I turned on the AC, I heard the compressor kick in, but no cold air.I turned it on and off, did not hear the clutch engage. When I got home I tuned it on, noticed the clutch was not engaging but seemed to be "struggling" to turn. I tried to spin it a bit with a bar and it moved but really sluggish. No unusual sounds. The belt is good. Last time I had the car out, really hot day, it was cold enough to freeze the ba---ls off an Eskimo. Any suggestions? I'm guessing either a bad electric connection ( not likely) a bad clutch, or the whole compressor is shot.

Lowering the asking price to $18,500 OBO. Car is listed on ebay and Hemmings. Many pix available.I'll throw in a few here but most of you saw this a while ago.

I just listed my 67 for sale on ebay yesterday. When I tried to go thru ebay motors I got a warning that the pages weren't secure. I was suspicious when they asked for credit card and checking acct info, although I found out later it is normal if you'e a seller. But when I finally got it done ( 90 minutes later) via telephone I told two different people about the security problem. They both seemed mildly interested and said they would report it. But how many people saw it before me? I ended going thru the regular ebay site, and it directed the ad to the car section. But beware of the car section. The header started with "pages/ebay motors/ etc.. Big warning "This site is not secure". WTH?

Enclosed are some pix I've posted before; engine compartment, trunk and interior. Before and afters

Much thanks; will keep you guys posted. And, like MacArthur, I shall return!

Time to move on. Before I list my car on other sites I'm listing it here first. 1967, just under 72,000 miles. Two different mechanics believe it to be original miles. Have Protecto-Plate, owners manual as well as all shop manuals. May have some records from original owner.Was repainted by previous owner in original Platinum Mist; he left some interior parts original color to use as comparison. Have list of upgrades done over the last six years- too many to list here but I have a list of right and what's not, with the car. Car is roadworthy, Ac runs on R-12. Trans rebuilt 4000 miles ago. AC controls are manual ( thankfully) .Have some spare parts. Asking $19,500 OBO. Sam from North Jersey 201 978 6800 If I don't pick up pls leave message.

The plug connectors have to be re-configured, but once you know which one goes where, it's a snap. The new relay, like all the others I've seen, have the prongs numbered but you need really good eyes. Does what my friend said about the new one being single pole dbl throw as opposed to the original single pole single throw make sense to you? I needlessly made it more complicated because when we had the cover, or case , off, we reversed the position so now the triple header faces the rear. Not sure how that happened but as long as you follow the notes I entered it should be a snap. That's why I'm offering the new one to anyone who currently has a problem with his aux relay. It cost about $27.00 and they had it within a day, from their main warehouse. And it's gold. I guess, in theory, you could strip off the connector blades and use alligator clips to test first.

The relay I'm talking about is the one that CLOSES the headlights, known as "Auxiliary Relay". It's the one on the passenger side wheel well near the horns. Went to local parts store on a quiet day and we looked thru a catalog of relays( see pix of Air Tex Catalog.) We found relay # 1R1290 , listed as for Buick 71-73, plus a few other GM cars. See pix. After much gnashing of teeth because some idiot who shall remain nameless left the headlight motor unplugged, we finally figured it out. My buddy was an instructor for GM and AC Delco and I trust him. This relay is a single pole double throw, while the old one was a single pole single throw, according to him. After he got done cursing this guy who left the motor unplugged, he figured it out. Would have taken about 3 minutes had the motor been connected but enough on that. On the new relay the prongs are numbered; on the dbl prongs, # 4 is yellow and is "power/coil" #5 is black and lite blue and is ground. One the triple prongs, #1, in the middle, is black and white and is "relay-hot". #2 is blank BUT IS ENERGIZED. #3 is black, and is "switch/hot". Apparently the fact that #2 is energized doesn't make any difference because nothing is connected to it. It hard no effect on draining the battery during a 4 week period. Two notes; the new one is in fact gold plated like the original one, and more important, when you see the pix of the new relay installed, WE REVERSED THE HOUSING so now the triple prong plug faces rear. It should be facing forward. Don't ask why. I have an extra brand new relay, so if anyone is having problems with the headlights staying open( won't close) contact me. I'll send you my new one and see if the info posted here is correct. Im posting a pix of "before and after"- the after pic has the relay hanging loose while the "before" has the old relay in place.

Happened to me with my 67, cruising along at 35 mph. The battery cable clamp came loose.

What went wrong?

What a beautiful color!!!

Nicely documented job! When I pulled my rear seat on my 67 I found the computer card that was used to call out options installed during the car's construction. Did you find yours? I have a picture of mine if you want.

Will post results when I receive new relay as per Seafoam 65's suggestion.

see pix of existing relay. I'm no mechanic but those points look good to me. I sanded them a little anyway. The 2nd pix shows the 2 tabs but you can't see the very thin wires the connect the tabs/lugs to the coil. They seem to be intact but underneath looks a little cruddy. Next to impossible to brush up without damaging the wires. Am on way to friends house to check coil.

PS I got the Delco # from that old Riview ( thanks Jason) and will look for it Monday . Very handy that someone took the time to enter all the old articles.

That's just what I did/ I noticed the points looked perfect ( was hoping they were lousy) but there are 2 hair-thin wires connecting the coil to the two lugs on the "double" connector ( as opposed to the triple). There is no lug on the triple side, # 2. I'm glad you guys agree the case is not grounded because I could not see anywhere how the metal tabs touch the frame. I tried cleaning under the 2 lugs but there's not much room and I don't want to break either of the hair-thin wires. Plugged it in- no luck. Local parts shop has one on order that looks close- will report back Monday. Haven't checked the coil yet.

Seafoam- really good info. we're on it! I should have mentioned yes, mine is a 67

PWB the relay you are showing, I think, is the one on the driver's side, near the hinge for the hood. According to the manual that one is the "headlamp lamp control relay, not the "headlamp aux control relay. The one on the drivers' side is the one your photo shows, with that odd looking plug that is a bitch to pull out. I noticed that the blade is wider at the base, and the round "socket" does not fit right. More to come

I noticed on the aux relay, the one on the wheel well passenger side, there are 2 plugs that plug in; one accepts a 2-prong, or blade, and the other accepts three. But when you look closely the one that accepts 3 really only uses 2 of the 3 prongs. This makes sense as there's only 4 wires going in ( 2 plus 2), not 5. I guess the other one, which is marked # 2, was for future use. I checked the wire diagram, the color codes of the wires, and 4 in, 4 out, is correct. On the left side of the relay are prongs # 1,2,3, with #1 in the middle. #2, which is the unused one, is the lower one. # 4 and 5 are on the right side. So I wonder if I were to find even a similar relay, ASSUMING all things inside the relays are identical, it could be jury rigged to work. But I'd rather not go there yet. Even though the relay has 5 prongs, one of them is a blank, I guess.

Jason- yes I'm interested in a used one- if nothing more than to use as a guide to repair the existing. Am looking up that article you mentioned. I wonder if I should go over to the nearest Buick dealer, go to parts depart,ent, look for a guy with grey hair, and show him the relay. Stranger things have happened.

I'm having a helluva time trying to find "headlamp control, auxiliary relay" I thought I had one from Timeless Auto Parts in Fla but the closest it comes to is the other relay on the firewall, driver's side. And the one they sent is wrong anyway because the fastener is reversed, should be on top, not bottom. And one of the blades is too tin anyway. I've read every ---- page of the manual and can't find any part ##. Anyone have any suggestions? The one I want is the one from the passenger side wheel well. For starters anyway.

Sorry but my seats are manual

A few years ago I took my 67 to the local upholstery shop to fix up the front seats. I had thought he would have simply torn averything off and re-covered but he took a chalk marker and proceeded to mark out the pieces that needed replacing. I never would have guessed there are about a dozen or more separate pieces. Enclosed pix show the old parts, an old cushion with writing from the factory, and the finished products. He re-painted the backs; all for $500. So far, no one has been able to see the old vs new pieces.

Thanks guys; job done this morning, took 15 minutes. Big help on mechanic's lift. Jason predicted it would take 6-7 pumps. It took eight. Not bad, friend!!