rocky5517

See pix of my old muffler before and after "alteration". I was wrong- it was a lot shorter than an inch. But system seemed to run fine.

Muffler on my 67 had rusted out on the bottom. They are hard to find in good condition. I took mine to a welding shop. We cut off the bottom and welded a new bottom in its place. Ended up being about an inch shorter than the original but made no difference . All was well.

On my 67 I needed the long door pull, which was vinyl. I think Ed is right in that your piece is molded plastic btw. I followed some advice on this forum and bought an original in good condition but the wrong color-maybe fawn? Anyway, to repaint it with lacquer paint was easy as long as you remember to prep it by rubbing it with lacquer thinner first. Apparently it not only cleans but opens up the "pores" of the material. I sprayed it, replaced it, and no one ever knew the difference. Made me look like I knew what I was doing.

In the December edition of the Riview there's a great story about the 1971 Silver Arrow lll. Apparently GM installed some experimental features on this car but the one I can't figure out is the "anti-stalling device", which would automatically re-start the engine. With an automatic trans, how often would you stall the engine?

I had a friend who was a professional gambler. Never worked a day in his life. We drove from the Jersey Shore to Jersey City in his 65 Caddy with a bad fan belt. overheating radiator, and low on gas. I said " Why don't we stop and get this stuff fixed?" He said "Ya gotta have SOMETHIN' to root for"

This guy should have his own TV show, right up there with Jay Leno, who I bet would get a kick out of him. Great mechanic, teaches us not to sweat the small stuff. Like driving home with no brakes. Brilliant!!

Wheel opening moldings definitely the same for 66 and 67

When a local ( North Jersey) trans shop rebuilt the trans in my 67, they said I needed a flywheel. They got one from Fatsco in about 90 minutes. They were less than 10 miles away, and the trans guy said Fatsco had everything they need. Correction; I needed a flex plate.

Many of the restorers will wind up single anyway

The seller made $30,000 on the deal BUT figure in his commission ( 10% if reserve, 5% if no reserve) plus the cost of listing the car and yes, you pay more depending on which day the car is shown. Plus I'm pretty sure, the State gets a cut for sales tax. Need confirmation. Another thing- that car was repainted, in the original color. I was surprised at what it brought.

I might be wrong but I thought I read he made 39 pieces and they're being offered on first come first served basis to members of the Buick forum.

I dunno, that Merc Monterey is pretty awesome

I have a mounting bracket for a 67- rear, I think. No charge- you pay shipping

Heater core/ Ac evaporator?

If I didn't know better I'd think someone added some type of catalyst into the engine to solidify the oil, just for entertainment purposes. How in the world did that car drive into the service station?

Well done!!

Sorry- sold it a while ago. They're out there but you have to have patience. And make sure the chrome nut is the real deal. Someone wrote an in depth article about the history of these air cleaners a while back- you should look for it in the archives. Maybe Jason Zerbini wrote it?

Be careful that the ohms for your new speakers match the new radio

I did mine a few years ago/ was easy, and I felt like it came out good. made me feel like I knew what I was doing. Went to a local shop specializing in seat covers, etc; he had rolls of the stuff. 99% match

Beside Dewey doing my booster, I asked him if he could re-plate ( gold ) the res cap, which he did. the ones you can buy online just don't look right. But he matched them up. I asked him what else he could re-plate- he said "send me your hood release assembly". Which I did. Not expensive at all, and the 3 matching gold components really made a difference.

Beautiful color

My father, years ago, bought a used 58 T-Bird from a dealer. There was a tag "Built Expressly for Bobby Darrin". We all had a good laugh over it, even the dealer and my father.

Had plastic wrap installed on my new ( 2019) Mustang, only on the front clip/ every thing else got ceramic coating. Have the car 18 months ( garage kept) and have washed it maybe 12 times. The coatings are the best investment I ever made. But the older cars had a much different paint job. You can bring an old finish back to life, in many cases, with some good compounding, waxing, buffing etvc. The paint on newer cars is way different, thinner, with a lot of clear coats. If I had an older car, like my 67 Riv, I don't think I'd use a wrap or ceramic, because I don't think you'd need it.

On my 67, over the course of about 8 years, I freshened up my engine bay with a "rattle can restoration". The booster and hood latch were re-finished ( thank you Boosters by Dewey) but most of the other stuff was done by masking( a lot) and small detail brushes. Not being a good mechanic, I went for painting things in place rather than removing and spraying. Especially things on the firewall, like the wiper motor. Like I've said before, the worse a mechanic you are, the better masker you become. The front engine cover was pulled by my friend, and I painted the AC and gen brackets, and while the carb was off I painted what I could by hand. Can an experienced eye see the difference? Of course. But I was fine with it. That front "plate" over the radiator comes off easy, and if you look over old articles you'll learn the many types of paint, i.e. glossy/satin/eggshell/flat, at the least. The satin black will become your friend, as will Argent Silver. Doing the air cleaner was fun, and putting the new decals on really made a difference. One tip; the bracket that holds the power steering pump is aluminium, and if your pump leaked mine did, you'll see that getting the paint to stick is a trick because the (leaking) oil penetrates the alum.. I sand blasted it, rubbed it with steel wool, everything you could imagine, but the paint wouldn't stick, until I stripped everything and used some alum primer first. After that, no prob. So break out the masking tape, use tin foil to wrap what needs to be wrapped ( watch those electric connections) stock up on Q tips, and have at it.

I'll try Jason but I always thought the resolution was set in the camera, when I took the pic, which was several years ago. If I can enhance it I will but I doubt it.