chevy_dude97

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About chevy_dude97

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    Maintenance Craftsman
  • Birthday 12/03/1980

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  1. Make sure when you paint that intake you "fine sand" out the scuffs and swirls or use a good "filler" primer. I know you would not want to get to that shiny paint and see them or add one too many coats and get the "runs" Or "wrinkles" from it not being cured between coats. From the looks of all the painting you have done so far you have it pretty down pat. If you haven't thought of it already a second "garage" just for paint could save you some headaches. LOOKIN GOOD BRO! -Jessie
  2. Ok Finally got back from CA and got my rebuild kit in the mail. It was very simple to rebuild since the cylinder was still 1'' in diameter. Needless to say its bleed in the morning and test drive time! WOOOHOO! Oh and sorry for no updates I was unexpectedly called back home for family assistance. I should be getting the pics from this R2 up shortly.
  3. Yeah I did order one of those off of ebay. I went for the not so cheap one that looks more robust. I noted upon removal and dis-assembly that there where a few seals missing, as pictured in the rebuild kits. I had used a rubber gasket to seal the leak in a test run, but I figure I will run the course and replace all suspect parts.(as they did not appear stock or of high quality) I did note a small ridge inside the cylinder that came out easily with emery cloth. I am hopeful this was the cause of the leak. As now the housing looks too pretty to core out.
  4. Yeah I did order one of those off of ebay. I went for the not so cheap one that looks more robust. I noted upon removal and dis-assembly that there where a few seals missing, as pictured in the rebuild kits. I had used a rubber gasket to seal the leak in a test run, but I figure I will run the course and replace all suspect parts.(as they did not appear stock or of high quality) I did note a small ridge inside the cylinder that came out easily with emery cloth. I am hopeful this was the cause of the leak. As now the housing looks too pretty to core out.
  5. Ok so I had been slacking, no excuses with weather ect.... But I did tear down the master cylinder. All I can say is I tor it apart cleaned it figure it may need to be resleaved and reinstalled it. It looks like it has had a new piston installed as it is anodized. Needless to say I have a very clean freshly painted leaking master cylinder..... I figure I will take it out again and drop if off at the machine shop tell them it should be 1 inch and let them work some magic. Then buy a new piston kit. What do you think? Looking at it myself I think a small o-ring can fit inside and possibly stop this leak as it sits.
  6. First start; I use non detergent oil, and plenty of assembly lube. Then lightly coat the cylinders via plug holes with oil or MMO. I then use a primer for the oil, in this case you can disconnect the ignition wire from the distributor and let her crank up untill you have oil pressure.(do not prime the fule by pumping gas) Warning on this however, if you do not see an immediate indication do not allow it to crank more than 5-7 seconds. If no indication try again allowing the starter to cool in between attempts. After oil is shown indicated then you can reconnect your ignition and fire her up. (lack of oil is the easiest way to wear down the life of the motor) If anything is assembled wrong you should know right away. My shop teacher always said if its going to break this is the time it will do it. Good Luck!
  7. Yes there should be a gap on each ring, also the gaps should be at different positions to not allow significant blow by(loss of compression). If they are too tight it can waller out the cylinder walls in short order.
  8. First off, beautiful car! What a great find! Welcome welcome to the forum! On to your issues... First thing is first your defrost/rear heat share the same fuse. If one works and the other doesn't test the blower located in the pass side air duct. Be very carful as there is a connector on the power line to the fan(do not mistake it for a simple butt and cut the wire) You can then test it right there by applying 6v using a jumper or something creative. As for the interior lights try checking the door switches first. I used electric cleaner and cycled with my hand for a few minutes and got mine to function properly. And the same goes for the trunk light, mine sticks sometime and requires coercing.... I too noticed the top stickers and the fact there are 2 stickers on your oil canister, could you possibly post up some close up engine bay pics?
  9. So very true. the best looking metal with paint was under inches of crud
  10. Are the 340 engines wider than the 350s? The owner has a 65 vert with a 350 in it and says this engine is wider.
  11. So I went out to CA this past week and my dad has a new project he was picking up (51 Chevy) and at the place we went to look at it his friend had a 65 Skylark, now this is not a normal or stock vehicle it has had major mods done to it..... hydraulics.... custom diamond velvet interior.... window etchings ect... The motor is not believed to be stock. On that note here are the pics.
  12. I got a homelite gas powered one from home depot. It has a 5.5hp engine and 2700psi..... Don't get me wrong I love my pressure washer. Just wasn't the best way to go about cleaning the road cement IMO.
  13. Thanks for the kind words. I think I will r2 them, after final install they worked flawless but I did find out why it was missing the washer fluid nozzle, looks like the shaft had been shortened as it may have broken off with the PO and thats how he rigged it to work, so with it shorted the wiper arm hits the nozzle. I just got a set of used ones in and have them soaking in MMO to free them up before I install them. And in comparison I noted that the one from my car was a good 1/4 inch shorter than the mint one I got in the mail. Needless to say new ones should be on before this weekend. -Jessie
  14. Save your self some cash, I can personally tell you that pressure washing not only will ruin any rubber or old paint but also make a complete mess. After a good 20-30 minutes when I first tore down my front end I pressure washed the passenger side. In that 30 min or so I effectively added to my list of things to buy(new brake hose, plug wire, but I also added a good 1 hour of pressure washing my driveway to rid it of the new debris deposited by the pressure washer. I noted that at a distance it would clean the wire looms of dirt/grime but up close it would remove the cotton. Also the hard crud that would not come off with the washer now was wet and I still needed to scrape.... So for the drivers side I only scrapped with a drop cloth underneath and I saved my self a good 40% in man hours. Where the washer worked best was inside the fenders and on the engine exhaust/intake. And whatever you do do not use a hot water line for your pressure washer unless it is stated to utilize hot water. These things use the cool water for cooling.
  15. You do not want to hook up your pressure washer to any hot water source. Unless it has a self contained water cooling system. The majority of washers out there utilize the cool water coming through the pump to cool the engine or motor(gas or electric) And every heated water pressure washer I have ever seen has the heater inline after the pump.(so as not to increase in temp) So in short if your washer is smart enuff not to let you run hot water through it then there is a good reason for it. -Jessie