Old Codger

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About Old Codger

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  • Birthday 05/04/1945

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    Still at it after all these years..Actually going back to where it all started for me.
  1. Are you putting anything around the threads, like plumbers tape, trying to make sure it seals? Or huckey pucking anything on the threads to try and make sure it has a good seal? DON'T....... The threads must make contact with the block to make the total electrical connection...If you're trying to seal the threads, you would be insulating the circuit. Have you taken a volt meter, and got a reading on the temp wire out at the block? Not taking a reading under the dash.... How long are you waiting for the gauge to show movement when you're driving? Old Codger
  2. Ya, but that's probably because you have a straight eight.!!!!!!!:D:D Seriously, how many miles for yours to go that low? I've got 108,000 on my 52 olds and it's going great...I get some puffs of smoke from the right bank on start up if I've let mine set for any length of time. But I'll attribute that to one or more valve guides. Old Codger
  3. That's true, a engine needs all three...But to have 8 dead cylinders????? It would run even it it only had 50 or 60#'s.... Even three dead cylinders, and the other 5 had some, it would start and run......Might not pull it's own weight out of a paper bag, but it would run. If it's got compression, and spark, but out of time, it makes the starter getting past TDC on either side hard to crank over....No compression, the starter will turn like the spark plugs were removed. So far it's got spark...compression...not known....But it still needs to have gas to make it go bang. To me, it might be more beneficial for Oldsoldie to go back to the owner and get a little more info...Such as a little more detail on what was done to make it start, was the timing ever messed with, and how long ago? If so what exactly was done?.. How much gas is even in the gas tank. The car was so called started and run about 3 months ago...was it driven? Did the car have current lic plates on it when he bought it? That would tell if the car had been driven in the last year, or maybe the last year that it was driven. Was it Slick Willy who sold the car..."Ran When Parked"......;) Just where in the country is Oldoldie located? Maybe there is someone near that can give a lending hand. Doesn't necessarily have to be another Olds owner, but someone who knows the temperament of these older cars. One more thing while I'm thinking of it...Are the plug wires on the right plugs? But there...even if two wires were crossed, it would still start. Old Codger
  4. The 52 Olds 303 does not have a rubber centered harmonic balance. It is a solid one piece. . The single groove is for a engine without power steering. The two groove is for for power steering...the inner grove is for the generator belt. The outer belt is for the power steering. In 53, the ones with a/c there are three grooves, because the early a/c took two belts to drive it, needing the 3 groove pulley balancer. If it has spark, then I go back to, the carb leaks down if it has been sitting for any length of time, the 4 bbl Rochester especially..They do need to be primed...or else grind and grind on the starter, and pump the gas pedal. If there is spark, even if it is out of time, it will either cough back thru the carb, or back thru the exhaust, trying to fire. When you click on the single pulley and enlarge it, notice those two (I'll call them bumps) Those are the timing marks....When the harmonic balancer (pulley) is placed on the engine, looking down at those two "bumps" are the timing mark....As the engine turns the left bump is the "Leading" mark or advance location. If the engine is timed with the timing mark pointing at the leading mark, then that is about 5 degrees advance....Dead center, Between the two "Bumps" is about 2 1/2 degrees advanced. Old Codger
  5. Oldsoldie,,,,Try starting at the beginning...Do you have spark or no? No spark?...Why?...Good place to start is take the distributor cap off, and see if the points are opening and closing...Is there a spark across the points? But you say you have spark..Correct? If you've got spark, then it will at least cough and bark even if it might be out of time.... If it has sat for any length of time, then ten cookies to a donut, the fuel bowl in the carb is empty...Either prime it a bit by pouring a few table spoons of gas down the carb...Don't go overboard, or a back fire just might singe your hair and more!!!!! If the previous owner said he had it running three months ago, then I'd go with the fule pump is ok, and that the fuel bowl had just drained...Mine does, if I let it set...I know, I know...It shouldn't but they do. As far as timing goes...You'll see the cut out in the pulley...the book called for it to be centered to be in time, but with my 52, I've found that the leading edge of that notch is what mine likes best. Standing in front of the radiator, the engine turns counter clockwise...That might help to remember which way the timing marks will turn...There's only one notch..not two I doubt if it's that far out of timing...Points...maybe....set them with a dwell meter....28 to 32 degrees....initial setting with feeler gauge at .16 will get you started. Remember..the 52 is 6 volt..neg ground. Keep us informed as to your progress, so we can see if we do know what we're talking about!!!!!!! Old Codger
  6. Me...I'm cheap...No...I'm frugal...No..... I'm Thrifty........ I get my 6 volt batteries at my local Town and Country store...Six volt batteries for a lot of tractors...Not saying that an Optima isn't a good battery but......... Just look for the cold cranking amps for one. They do vary from battery to battery. Old Codger
  7. Bleach said it 4 weeks ago, The builder is trying to duck you. INSIST, that since he did the work, then it's up to him to stand behind his work, not you. It's not for you to look for his mistakes. It'll be too easy for him to come back on you, and say that it was fine until you got your hands in it...It's your fault that it's not right. I say B/S. The more time that goes by, and the car is your hands, the less of a chance you're going to have for him to make it right... Old Codger
  8. Well...My 2 cents says your cam went south. What cam? From what vendor? Where was the cam mfg'd...China? Mexico? Just because it might have a U.S. Brand name on it, does not necessarly mean it was made in the USA. Your mech put diesel 10-30 wt?????? Why? For better lubrication????..I don't buy that. Diesel oil is not going to lubricate any better than a straight oil will. I'm guessing he put diesel in because he heard about using diesel oil having better Zink properties. Ask your mech, if he thinks you should run diesel fuel in it too, since the diesel stuff is so good for a car, and see what he says.... If you started it right up and went to 2000 rpms and ran it that way for ten minutes, IMO it's time to go back to your trusty mech and ask him to do it all again, (on his nickle since you broke it in like HE said to do) This time, run a mineral, straight weight oil for break in, not some detergent oil. I won't go in to procedures that have been tried and true for generations on how to break in a engine. But I would highly suggest of getting a second, third and forth opinion on how to best break in a over hauled engine. Bleach, hit upon on how best to break in a engine that has just been overhauled. Old Codger
  9. Some days a person gets lucky I guess....Found two of the front drum/hubs instead of just one. And only 60 miles way from me...A fellow was parting out a 50 Olds 4 door. The 50 Olds drum is the same as the 52.:) The were advertized in the local paper, under parts for sale. Took them to the local brake shop and they've never been turned. Bearings, races and seals from OLCAR BEARING COMPANY who was suggested from a post on the AACA forums to get bearings. I'll be back on the road either this week-end or the first of next week.:) Old Codger
  10. Thanks for the help guys, but in my first post, the first sentence of the second paragraph I mentioned I know how to use one of those clip removal tools. Also in the 5th paragraph last sentence "giving me enough room to slip the clip removal tool in". I've got two of those clip removal tools, had to use them before. But in this case the upholstery is is pressing so tightly against the washer, that goes against the handle, there just wasn't enough room to slip that clip removal tool in between that washer and the handle to get to the clip. So I had to pry between the washer and the handle enough to even be able to see the clip. Also, the clip that was in there apparently was not original, because the ears did not stick out past the groove the clip sit in to even use a clip removal tool...That's why I had to fish the clip out with a dental pick, and a smaller flat edge screw driver to even get the clips out. As far as buying those door handle clips, there's always a jillion of them for sale on Evil Bay, if a person wants to pay their price. Some are even listed as NOS GM parts. Autozone, Pep Boys, any of them in the isle that has stuff for sale that say HELP on the package has them...I trust NAPA more though. But thanks though. Old Codger
  11. I suppose I ought to show the car I'm messing with... The 4th photo, down left under the dash is a water temp gauge...(used to be)...I found a correct sending unit so now all the gauges, radio and clock work. Factory fog lights, turn signals..they work, and the autronic eye. It works... The owner driver...nope...he's retired!!!!!!! Old Codger
  12. BOING......Now where that clip take off to? Got the door handle off now, that leaves that window handle, the one that's puckered inward.....That one is really going to be a thrill. The door handle, I had to get it turned just right, and held in place with that large common screwdriver wedged between the washer and handle. Then it went pretty good. I tried my little screw driver that I made a curve in it. That got it started out, but I had to finish pulling it out with the dental pick....BOING...I was planning on getting new clips anyway!!!!!! I have no idea where that took off to. CYBER GARAGE????? I might as well get started asking now....Where to buy those clips for door and window handles? Old Codger
  13. Break time again....Couldn't get the clip out with the dental pick on the door handle...SO...out to the shop to make a tool...I have a very small common screw driver, I put in the vice to put a bend in it. Then took it to the grinder to make the edge small enough to fit into that slot the clip is in... For a back up, too, another larger common screw driver, and ran it on the grinder, to put almost a knife edge on it, so it will fit into that groove to catch one of the ears of the clip. On this first photo, this shows pretty good of the washer and the clip. Also of how I had to use that large screw driver to hold the washer away from the handle that has the clip in it. Then I could get the dental pick in to where the clip fits in the groove and snag it. The second photo shows just the clip...I really don't think that is an original clip, because if you look close at each end they do not protrude out very much, therefore it makes it next to impossible for one of those clip removal tools to snag each of the ears, pushing them away from the groove. And clips I have ever seen, the ears protrude out and away, maybe 1/16 of a inch away from the groove, allowing the clip removal tool to catch it each end of the clip. In the third photo, is the dental pick I used, and how I was able to catch one of the ears in the groove of the handle itself. Actually, it is upside down. I used the hook of the pick to snag one of the ears and once I pulled up on the ear, then the whole clip popped out. WHEW!!!!! On the last photo, you can see where I have the dental pick in that groove to catch the clip...Also if you look at the bottom of the handle, where there should be one of the ears of that clip showing, there isn't any...This makes me think those clips are not original...Also, any door handle clips I've ever removed, were silver in color, not this copper/brass color.. All of this, just to get three door handles off, so I can remove the old grease, and re-grease the tracks, and cranks, just to make the windows go up and down smoothly :) And this is only one door!!!!!! Time out for a cigar, or a few puffs anyway!!!!! Old Codger
  14. Progress report.....S.O.B.:( I took the window frame off, and was able to peel back the top of the side panel, so I could see what I'm doing. I used a large common screwdriver to get between the washer and the knob. And pushed against the washer to get it back towards the panel, where I could see the groove and where the clip is supposed to be....I don't know if those clips were original or not, but there sure isn't any ears on the end, so the clip removal tool would work... SO., with three hands and the dog...I was able to work the dental pick to the groove, holding back with the large common screwdriver against that washer, pushing everything inward... I did get the dental pick hooked to one of the ears. So It's one down, and two to go. The one that I just took out is the top right in the photo. The wing window. I've come in to take a break, get some self control, before I go out and try and tackle the door handle...I think I can get it from the top like I did with the wing window. It's that bottom window handle that's going to be a bear.... However,,,,It''s starting to snow pretty hard outside, and I don't have anything better to do. Old Codger
  15. Woops, it is the window crank...The only thing I can come up with is to take all of the screws loose, and peel back the panel to see if I can get to that "C" clip with something that has a hook on the end to see if I can snag that clip. Old Codger