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About w1spurgeon

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  • Birthday 05/14/1944
  1. OK, my last post on this subject. To those who suggest I should not have brought this up on a AACA forum I can only say that I have been a member for less that a year but I learn fast...and I have certainly learned my lesson. Look elsewher for help, look here for snotty replies and criticism. I guess the "Antique Auto" tag on my car isn't necessarily a pass into the AACA. The funny thing is that my car is entirely inspired by a beautifully restored Chrysler Airflow which runs around Chattanooga, beautifully restored except for the Chevy small block and auto transmission. An abomonation you say? Tell that to the owner. Personally I can't think of a finer fellow to emulate than Harold Coker.
  2. Thanks JIM, I agree. BTW, I am also a trained electronics technician (U.S. Navy) and worked in that field for 12 years before moving to management. My electronic skills are certainly outdated, but then so is the car. SFAIR - The 12 volt system is not connected to the charging system in the car. It connects to a battery minder when the car is parked in the garage. The system has never given me any problems (at least before this) and has never failed to start the car when keyed. It has a seperate starter switch and the whole 12V system is isolated from the car charging system. The only way they can be connected together is if you press both starter switches (one on the floor, one under the dash) at the same time, bad news since that would deliver 20V throughout the entire system. This has not been done and has been eliminated as a potential cause of my problems. The 8V system is charged off the 6V alternator, which is not the best solution but has been operating satisfactorily for several months with the battery continuing to provide at least 7+ plus volts at all times. Remember the reason I went to an 8V battery was to deliver more than the 6V output of the Optima to the electronic ignition, so as long as it charges the battery to at least a 7V level, the charging system is working satisfactorily. MATT - If you think the electrical system is overly complicated, you should see my throttle linkage. I gotta post some pictures.
  3. My local AACA group has as many hotrodders as restorers - we get along just fine. However I have to admit that your snotty response was not what I expected from this forum.
  4. Thanks for your opinions but the biggest mistake I made in this building this car was to allow purists to talk me out of converting the car to a 12V system when I was just starting. The car is not original, will never be original and I wouldn't have it original. It's a resto-rod. The car has an electronic ignition, juice brakes, an Isky cam and Edelbrock Super manifold with two Edelbrock 94's because that's the way I want it and I'm looking to make it work, not change it back to where I started. Now, having said that, I should explain I started with a new 6V Optima battery but changed to 8V because the Optima voltage output was not high enough to fire the electronic ignition. The 12V battery is charged on a battery minder while the car is parked in the garage. The car has the proper 6V sized cables and extra grounds vetween every major mechanical component. Matt - I'm gonna try your suggestion to switch everything to the 8V system to see how that works. That soulds reasonable. The 12V system was originally installed because the engine had just come from the machine shop and was so tight the 6V system wouldn't turn it over fast enough to start. I had 50psi oil pressure at idle....that's tight.
  5. Wow this problem has me scratching my head. The car is a 6V+grd '36 Ford tudor standard with a 1-wire GM alternator and electronic ignition on a '47 flathead engine. I use a 8V battery to fire the ignition and seperate a 12V battery in the starter circuit. The two systems are isolated by a selonoid. It was running a few months ago, until I garaged it to rework the carb linkage, After completing the work I reconnected the ground wire to the battery and drew a major spark. I had smoke under the dash and fried some wiring, which I replaced on an individual basis. Now, when the wire to the alternator is not connected, the car starts and runs normally. When the alternator is connected it apparently shorts the battery directly to ground and I again get the large spark when I touch the ground wire to the battery. I assumed there would be a ground somewhere in the charging circuit so I tore it apart and guess what, no short to ground. Not in the wire to the alternator, not on the alternator terminal lug and not under the dash. One solution would to be to replace the dash to engine harness but theres no assurance that would solve the problem and besides, this has become a challenge I'd really like to figure out myself. Any suggestions would be helpful.