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Everything posted by stefan66skylark

  1. Greg and Bernie, thanks for your assistance! During overhaul the top of the crankcase has been honed, just to create a smooth surface. The heads have not been shaved, just cleaned. Oil is reaching both rocker shafts. Checked headbolt torque, head bolts don't move at max torque of 110 Nm (81 ft/lbf). (I know about friction coefficients, but at least bolts are tight) Checked compression, all fine. No oil in water, no water in oil. A bit more pressure in the cooling system then it used to be, but not too much (radiator cap 15 psi and thermostat 180° both new). I will check both oil level/conditi
  2. Dear Greg, thanks for your reply. Please have a look at the attached pictures taken this morning. The show the joint head/block at the front and read edge. I double checked that it isn't drippimg down from the valve covers and it can't be traced to the intake. And regarding my initial question; do you know wether it is advisable to retorque these heads? Thanks Stefan
  3. Hallo all, my freshly rebuild 300 cid V8 has developed leaks at three edges of the cylinder heads, close to the exhaust headers, towards the very front/rear of the engine. As far as I remember the oil lines for the rocker shafts are located in that area. It's not that bad, but she marks my otherwise clean driveway. I have used Fel-Pro head gaskets, block and head surfaces were ultra smooth and clean. The heads were tightend in the correct sequence and torque. General question: Is it advisable to retorque the headbolts on this engine after a few warm/cold cycles? What's the right technique; l
  4. Hi all, thanks a lot for the kind words! I'll be starting a new thread right now, having some oil-loss-problems... Stefan
  5. Dear Friends, it’s been a while that I wrote about my 300 engine overhaul. First of all let me thank again for your advice and encouragement. Now here’s about what happened in the meantime. After taking it all apart I found the engine to be in not too bad a shape. The upper edge of the bores showed a significant ridge, but no scoring or untypical marks. The crank journal surfaces did look fine as well and the bearing clearances were within specs. So I decided to re-ring the pistons and go with standard size new crank main and con-rod bearings. I got all parts (and some more) from
  6. Greg, you are definiteley right, it's a fine piece of machinery. The flywheel inspection cover has arrived yesterday, thanks a bunch for your help. It's great to have that long missing part! I'm in the process of cleaning the engine inside and out. All the necessary parts are ordered, I hope they will arrive soon and fit well. I'll let you know how work progresses, will take some time thou. Best Stefan
  7. d2_willys, thanks for your thoughts. I performed a compression check last year, and the results were satisfactory, except one cylinder, with was just under the specs. In the meantime, I have completeley dismantled the engine. Results so far: - Cylinder wall wear within limits, no unusual scores or scratches - Cylinder bore size within limits - Piston ring gaps above wear limits, will fit new rings standard size - Pistons with normal wear signs, nothing unusual, can be reused - Connecting rod jounals fine and within specs, no need to regrind or overhaul - Connecting rod bearings at top of wear
  8. Willie & Greg, thanks for your replies. I agree that the harmonic balancer is defective, I just can't understand why. The balancing weight and the disc which carries the timing mark are riveted to the keyed base with six big rivets. Those are all undisturbed. How in hell can the disc rotate relative to the base while the rives are undisturbed? In case the balancing weight has still the correct position relative to the base, I'd be tempted to put a new TDC mark on the disc and be done with it. OTOH, if it drifted off once, it may continue to do so and be incorrect in the future. I think I
  9. Hi all, first of all thanks again to ol' yeller, who got me in touch with a friend of his. He sold me a flywheel cover which is on the way right now. I have now dismantled the eingine and found a fair amount of sludge in the oil pan, but no metal or such. I've got two questions for the experts: While the left cylinder head is rather clean, the right cylinder head is full of crud. See attached pictures. What is the reason for this? Since years I could not adjust the timing by the timing mark on the timing cover/harmonic balancer. Now it's obvious why. Please have a look at the picture, how ca
  10. Ol' yeller, that would be great! I have an Ebay account with 500+ positive feedback, so if he likes to put it on Ebay I would be happy to buy there. Please let me know. You are right, these heat passages were blocked in the intake, but the stove pipes were rusted out beyond repair too. In case I could get all necessary hardware (i.e pipes, bimetallic element at carb, heat riser etc), I'd be happy to convert it back to the original setup. Thanks again, yours Stefan
  11. ol' yeller, thanks for your advice. I will replace the timing gear for sure. The original carb choke system has bitten the dust decades ago. The pipes were rotten, the heat riser broken and the bi-metallic-spring defective. That was back in the eighties when it was was nearly impossible to get spare parts for this car over here. So I converted it to an electric choke system taken off a Camaro... You are right, the carb is a 2 bbl. The rear seal is not leaking, I would prefer to leave that alone if possible. Thanks for the hint regarding painting, there's an US-car store around who stocks en
  12. Hi Brian, thanks for your reply! Stupid me, I forgot; we're now at 237,000 kms, that is some 147,000 mls. I'm a bit afraid of touching the lower end, cause it's working fine and some friends of mine have had bad experiences with foreign (on my side of the pond, that is) material being overhauled by local machine shops. Here's a photo of my car. The hubcaps are not correct for the specification, but I have the original ones (spinner type) as well. Problem is they tend to come loose and fall off. Cheers Stefan
  13. Dear Buick enthusiasts, I am Stefan from Germany. As some of you might remember, I own a 1966 Skylark Convertible with 300 cid V8 engine and Super Turbine 300 2-speed automatic transmission. My father-in-law bought that car new in 1966. The engine/gear box has never been out of the car. The only major repair was in 1985 when I replaced the camshaft and lifters. Although the car was still running reasonably well, it has developed some faults over the years: Some significant oil leaks engine and trans Oil consumption is about 1 quart per 1,000 mls exhaust definitely smells burnt oil ca
  14. Aaron65, I see your point, and agree. Much to my regret sometime along our car's life a mechanic has butchered the original carb. The original tangs are missing, worn threads have been re-tapped in metric sizes and the like. Also the original choke system has been removed entirely, the heat pipes, exhaust flap, all gone. That's why I ordered an overhauled carburetor. I plan to keep the old one for spares I might need in the future. Regarding the distributor vacuum pot, I might try the one from the reman unit. I'm a bit hesitant as I found the threads on the mounting holes of the old distrib
  15. Guys, thanks a lot for your very helpful thoughts. Aaron65, no, I have a standard timing light, no dial back. Balancer is spot on TDC with marking, I checked with a plastic rod in the cylinder moving the piston up and down. Old-Tank, yes you are right, the vac units are different. The travel of the new unit is significantly longer. I limited the travel by adding a little bracket to the guide, but not much better. NTX5467, I was wondering too that there is no ported vacuum port at the carb, just this one giving manifold vac at idle. The workshop manual does not give any detail about this, ne
  16. Hello everybody, thanks a lot for your thoughts. I have double checked the distributor, the internals are fine, the wires safely routed and the insulation is good. Fact is: I set the ignition timing to 2.5° with vac disconnected. Engine runs fine, centrifugal advance is working, I see the timing move with the strobe light while revving. When I connect vacuum, I see the timing moving off towards advance way off the scale, and the engine dies, b/c it can't handle that much advance timing. I have checked the vacuum at the connection, it's a full 20 inHg at idle. Should it read that much? Or di
  17. Aaron65, thanks for this suggestion, I will check into this later today. I will also check the level of vacuum force at the distributor and the movement of the advance plate with my vac pump.
  18. brh, yes, I'm checking the timing by #1, foremost cylinder left bank (driver's side). What puzzles me is that the vac advance does alter the timing so much! Could, for any reason, be there too much vacuum force? Perhaps due to the modified choke setup?
  19. brh, thanks for your thoughts. Distributor/rotor is set in per spec, dwell is 30° spot on, idle is a tad high @ 600 rpm but that should be ok for now. Engine runs great with vac disconnected, no miss, lots of power. Engine is 300ci for sure, but is called the 310 due to the torque rating. 340 is the same engine, but afaik with longer stroke. Thanks again Stefan
  20. Fellow Buick enthusiasts, I'm Stefan from Germany, and I own a 1966 Buick Skylark convertible which has been in our family from new. The Buick is equipped with the 300ci V8 and automatic transmission. Car is bone stock except the choke system which has been replaced by an electric unit. Original Rochester 2GC carb though. I have obtained a reconditioned distributor (Cardone) and put it in, together with new rotor, spark plugs and leads. According to my workshop manual, timing is set to 2.5 BTDC at idle with vacuum disconnected. Car runs and idles fine doing so, but when I connect the vacuum a
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