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About stefan66skylark

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  • Birthday 03/09/1961

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  1. Greg and Bernie, thanks for your assistance! During overhaul the top of the crankcase has been honed, just to create a smooth surface. The heads have not been shaved, just cleaned. Oil is reaching both rocker shafts. Checked headbolt torque, head bolts don't move at max torque of 110 Nm (81 ft/lbf). (I know about friction coefficients, but at least bolts are tight) Checked compression, all fine. No oil in water, no water in oil. A bit more pressure in the cooling system then it used to be, but not too much (radiator cap 15 psi and thermostat 180° both new). I will check both oil level/condition and coolant level/condition before each cold start during the next months and see how things develop. Also I place a big piece of cardboard underneath the car, so leaks may be traced more easily and the garage stays clean. Would prefer to remove the heads again in fall, I'd like to drive the car now. Weather is beautiful over here right now! As for the translation, that would be something like: "Der vom Einzelnen zu erreichende Grad an Perfektion ist direkt proportional zur Anzahl der Wiederholungen." And there's a lot of truth in it! Thanks much, yours Stefan
  2. Dear Greg, thanks for your reply. Please have a look at the attached pictures taken this morning. The show the joint head/block at the front and read edge. I double checked that it isn't drippimg down from the valve covers and it can't be traced to the intake. And regarding my initial question; do you know wether it is advisable to retorque these heads? Thanks Stefan
  3. Hallo all, my freshly rebuild 300 cid V8 has developed leaks at three edges of the cylinder heads, close to the exhaust headers, towards the very front/rear of the engine. As far as I remember the oil lines for the rocker shafts are located in that area. It's not that bad, but she marks my otherwise clean driveway. I have used Fel-Pro head gaskets, block and head surfaces were ultra smooth and clean. The heads were tightend in the correct sequence and torque. General question: Is it advisable to retorque the headbolts on this engine after a few warm/cold cycles? What's the right technique; loosening and retorque or just retorque? Specific question: Will this rectify the oil loss? I have read somewhere in the www that Fel-Pro head gaskets are prone to leak on nailhead engines. Should I have used another brand of gasket? Please share your wisdom... Stefan
  4. Hi all, thanks a lot for the kind words! I'll be starting a new thread right now, having some oil-loss-problems... Stefan
  5. Dear Friends, it’s been a while that I wrote about my 300 engine overhaul. First of all let me thank again for your advice and encouragement. Now here’s about what happened in the meantime. After taking it all apart I found the engine to be in not too bad a shape. The upper edge of the bores showed a significant ridge, but no scoring or untypical marks. The crank journal surfaces did look fine as well and the bearing clearances were within specs. So I decided to re-ring the pistons and go with standard size new crank main and con-rod bearings. I got all parts (and some more) from Classic Buicks. All was delivered in time, no problems. While waiting for the parts, I bought a ridge-reamer to cut the ridge off the bores. When it arrived, I tried to use it but I was scared to scrape off more the necessary and destroy the bores. So I used another tool to hone the bore surfaces, one of these three-legged-hone-tools which you fit to your drilling machine, don’t know how it’s called in English. I used it a bit more intensive at the top to even out the ridge, it came out pretty well, at least optically. :-) After arrival of the parts, I fitted new rings to the original pistons, installed new bearings and put the engine back together with all new gaskets. Without further testing, I installed the engine and trans in the car. When first started, it ran pretty rough but evened out except running on seven cylinders. Checked compression and found cyls #1 to 7 in good order and #8 zero. Removed intake and valve cover and could not find anything wrong. Major disappointment. After some fiddeling I decided to bite the bullet and remove the engine again for further examination. Went much faster this time! Stripped the engine again, removed the #8 piston to find – nothing. Being rather puzzled I decided to do it right this time. Brought the complete short block to a local machine shop to have it measured. With the results I ordered oversize bearings and oversize pistons (again from Classic Buicks) and had the block re-bored and honed and the crankshaft ground. I had the machine shop reassemble the short block to avoid liability questions in case of problems. After the engine being mostly assembled on the stand, I decided to do a compression check with the engine still out of the car. Guess what, still no compression on #8. Darn. The intake manifold and valve covers were still off, so I could see the valve mechanism working properly. But when I backed off and re-tightened the rocker shaft in question I could see on very close examination, that the #8 exhaust valve was pushed down by a very tiny amount, being not fully seated! No wonder there’s no compression! I found that #8 exhaust lifter was locked hydraulically. Of course the method of choice would be to renew at least this lifter, but since this would have meant another delay for weeks (remember, I’m in Germany) I took it apart, cleaned it and put it back together. Compression now fine on all Cylinders! Reassembled rest of engine, put back in, started right up! Had some lifter clicking for the first minutes, but that disappeared soon. The first test drives showed that the engine performs well and runs smooth. It still stumbles quite a bit when I start from a standstill, will tweak the carb adjustment the next days. Conclusions: I don’t know if the “cheap” overhaul with just new rings and bearing shells would have been a success. The compression of #1 - 7 was good. So it could have worked On the other hand the bottom engine is now perfect for the rest of my life (fingers crossed). With kindest regards from Germany Stefan A picture of the nearly finished engine:
  6. Greg, you are definiteley right, it's a fine piece of machinery. The flywheel inspection cover has arrived yesterday, thanks a bunch for your help. It's great to have that long missing part! I'm in the process of cleaning the engine inside and out. All the necessary parts are ordered, I hope they will arrive soon and fit well. I'll let you know how work progresses, will take some time thou. Best Stefan
  7. d2_willys, thanks for your thoughts. I performed a compression check last year, and the results were satisfactory, except one cylinder, with was just under the specs. In the meantime, I have completeley dismantled the engine. Results so far: - Cylinder wall wear within limits, no unusual scores or scratches - Cylinder bore size within limits - Piston ring gaps above wear limits, will fit new rings standard size - Pistons with normal wear signs, nothing unusual, can be reused - Connecting rod jounals fine and within specs, no need to regrind or overhaul - Connecting rod bearings at top of wear limit at .004 - 006 clearance, but no scratches or burrs - Crankshaft main bearings good and not worn to a grade that a regrind should be done - Crankshaft main bearing clearance also at top of limits at around 0.005 - Crankshaft end float good I conclude to replace piston rings, crankshaft main bearings and connection rod bearings with standard size new parts. Since I'm going to buy complete gasket sets for engine and transmission, replacement of the seals and gaskets no question. Now for parts ordering... Thanks all for your assistance Stefan
  8. Willie & Greg, thanks for your replies. I agree that the harmonic balancer is defective, I just can't understand why. The balancing weight and the disc which carries the timing mark are riveted to the keyed base with six big rivets. Those are all undisturbed. How in hell can the disc rotate relative to the base while the rives are undisturbed? In case the balancing weight has still the correct position relative to the base, I'd be tempted to put a new TDC mark on the disc and be done with it. OTOH, if it drifted off once, it may continue to do so and be incorrect in the future. I think I'll look out for a new/used one. Thanks Stefan EDIT: Searched the net and it seems not an uncommon problem that the timing marks do slip...
  9. Hi all, first of all thanks again to ol' yeller, who got me in touch with a friend of his. He sold me a flywheel cover which is on the way right now. I have now dismantled the eingine and found a fair amount of sludge in the oil pan, but no metal or such. I've got two questions for the experts: While the left cylinder head is rather clean, the right cylinder head is full of crud. See attached pictures. What is the reason for this? Since years I could not adjust the timing by the timing mark on the timing cover/harmonic balancer. Now it's obvious why. Please have a look at the picture, how can that be? The harmonic balancer rest on a key on the crankshaft, so it can't be misplaced. How would you rectify this? Thanks in advance for your input, Stefan
  10. Ol' yeller, that would be great! I have an Ebay account with 500+ positive feedback, so if he likes to put it on Ebay I would be happy to buy there. Please let me know. You are right, these heat passages were blocked in the intake, but the stove pipes were rusted out beyond repair too. In case I could get all necessary hardware (i.e pipes, bimetallic element at carb, heat riser etc), I'd be happy to convert it back to the original setup. Thanks again, yours Stefan
  11. ol' yeller, thanks for your advice. I will replace the timing gear for sure. The original carb choke system has bitten the dust decades ago. The pipes were rotten, the heat riser broken and the bi-metallic-spring defective. That was back in the eighties when it was was nearly impossible to get spare parts for this car over here. So I converted it to an electric choke system taken off a Camaro... You are right, the carb is a 2 bbl. The rear seal is not leaking, I would prefer to leave that alone if possible. Thanks for the hint regarding painting, there's an US-car store around who stocks engine paints matching the original colors. BTW, how is the cover called, which is located between engine and trans covering the torque converter? It has been lost on my car. Ideas anyone where I could get one of these? Kindest regards from Germany Stefan
  12. Hi Brian, thanks for your reply! Stupid me, I forgot; we're now at 237,000 kms, that is some 147,000 mls. I'm a bit afraid of touching the lower end, cause it's working fine and some friends of mine have had bad experiences with foreign (on my side of the pond, that is) material being overhauled by local machine shops. Here's a photo of my car. The hubcaps are not correct for the specification, but I have the original ones (spinner type) as well. Problem is they tend to come loose and fall off. Cheers Stefan
  13. Dear Buick enthusiasts, I am Stefan from Germany. As some of you might remember, I own a 1966 Skylark Convertible with 300 cid V8 engine and Super Turbine 300 2-speed automatic transmission. My father-in-law bought that car new in 1966. The engine/gear box has never been out of the car. The only major repair was in 1985 when I replaced the camshaft and lifters. Although the car was still running reasonably well, it has developed some faults over the years: Some significant oil leaks engine and trans Oil consumption is about 1 quart per 1,000 mls exhaust definitely smells burnt oil can not adjust carburetor correctly/ assume false air on intake manifold pinging under heavy load although timing is on the dot What I have done/checked so far: installed reman carburetor installed reman distributor replaced spark plugs and -leads checked compression, all within tolerances oil pressure is good, no knocking noises from bottom lifters are quiet coolant was bright green, no scale or rust. Yesterday I pulled engine and trans. All went fine, no problems at all. Here's what I'm planning to do: Engine: Remove intake an heads. Remove valves from head, de-carbonize head and valves. Check valve stems for play, replace valve stem seals. Inspect cylinders bores for wear. Replace timing gear. Repaint engine to original spec. Put everything together with new gaskets. Transmission: Replace extension sleeve due to excessive play of propshaft and corresponding leak Replace speedo drive seals due to leakage Replace oil strainer Questions: Would you take apart the engine bottom end of the engine? Would you pull the pistons to check for problems/wear? I'm buying most of the stuff from Rockauto, since they offer export services and deliver rather fast. Are there any brands of material I should stay away from? Should I pull the torque converter from the trans to drain the oil completeley? Trans oil was ok, not brown or burnt. I know how to install a torque converter correctly. Should I use a primer before repainting engine surfaces? I should mention that I have the 1966 factory Chassis Service Manual as well as the corresponding Fisher Body Manual. Please let me know your thoughts. Thanks in advance and best regards Stefan
  14. Aaron65, I see your point, and agree. Much to my regret sometime along our car's life a mechanic has butchered the original carb. The original tangs are missing, worn threads have been re-tapped in metric sizes and the like. Also the original choke system has been removed entirely, the heat pipes, exhaust flap, all gone. That's why I ordered an overhauled carburetor. I plan to keep the old one for spares I might need in the future. Regarding the distributor vacuum pot, I might try the one from the reman unit. I'm a bit hesitant as I found the threads on the mounting holes of the old distributor to be worn, and they might go broke if I mess with them repeatedly.... Cheers Stefan
  15. Guys, thanks a lot for your very helpful thoughts. Aaron65, no, I have a standard timing light, no dial back. Balancer is spot on TDC with marking, I checked with a plastic rod in the cylinder moving the piston up and down. Old-Tank, yes you are right, the vac units are different. The travel of the new unit is significantly longer. I limited the travel by adding a little bracket to the guide, but not much better. NTX5467, I was wondering too that there is no ported vacuum port at the carb, just this one giving manifold vac at idle. The workshop manual does not give any detail about this, neither in the carb nor in the distributor section. I don't remember what I used for the electric choke conversion, some GM unit which I could get. Very little supply here, you have to take what you get! Regarding your comments about the remanufactured parts, you're right, please read on... So here is what happened today: Car ran yesterday evening. So I expected it to start today. Not so. Occasional backfire but would not catch. Repeated static timing. Does not start, sometimes "willing" to, but no success. Vary timing slighty back and forth. This went on for 15 minutes, then all of a sudden it ran. I was puzzled. Used strobe to set timing to 2.5°, vac off. Decide to keep vac removed. Make test drive, car runs good. Stop at an intersection, engine dies. Restart, no problem. Return home, let engine idle. After two minutes, some stumbling then dies. Restart, let idle again. Good for a few minutes, then stumbling and off. Try to restart, nothing. Won't start. Some misfiring but no start. I start to get angry... Decide to inspect the old distributor. Points shot. Centrifugal advance hardly moving. No play in shaft, good. Vac unit shot. Decide to give it a try. Renew points, take apart centrifugal advance, clean, lube. Set engine to TDC, rip out reman distributor, put in freshly tuned (except vac unit, of course) old distributor, set static timing. Start car, no problem. Then adjust dwell and set timing with strobe. Engine runs great. Make test drive, engine performs well, no pinging. Idles good. Then fiddled a bit with the carb adjustments b/c it had a tendency to run rich, now better. Engine now running *very* well with the old distributor! So, something seems to be wrong with the remanufactured distributor. I inspected it closeley, but could not find a problem. I will leave in the original one for sure! But I do need the vacuum unit, obviously. It is stamped MS 210 16 . Does anybody know where to get one of these? The seller should be willing to mail overseas, thou. It will not make any sense to return the "new" distributor to the vendor, b/c shipping cost would be more than the crap's worth... I hope I will be more lucky with the carburetor I have ordered (from another company). They will build it for me to original specification. At least this is what I'm paying for :-) Once again, many thanks to all of you for your support! Yours Stefan